Home-brew logbooks

[Pajaholic]

I've had trouble finding small log books suitable for 1/3 litre Lock&Lock boxes etc. I know that GS do a tiny logbook, but it's hideously expensive IMO. So, I thought that I'd give making my own a go and a couple of hours work produced the logbook pictured below. Pages are approx A8 in size with the overall dimensions of approx 2.5" x 3". I've used a high-quality paper and there are 94 usable pages (i.e. 188 sides). The book is case-bound (sewn) for durability, although it's not "lay-flat". I'm quite pleased with the results. However, the cover of this one is calico, which might absorb moisture, so I'm looking for a more moisture-resistant covering material for the next.

 

Here's the photos (click each for the full-sized version).

 

Geoff

[Dulce-Joy]

I've had trouble finding small log books suitable for 1/3 litre Lock&Lock boxes etc. I know that GS do a tiny logbook, but it's hideously expensive IMO. So, I thought that I'd give making my own a go and a couple of hours work produced the logbook pictured below. Pages are approx A8 in size with the overall dimensions of approx 2.5" x 3". I've used a high-quality paper and there are 94 usable pages (i.e. 188 sides). The book is case-bound (sewn) for durability, although it's not "lay-flat". I'm quite pleased with the results. However, the cover of this one is calico, which might absorb moisture, so I'm looking for a more moisture-resistant covering material for the next.

 

Here's the photos (click each for the full-sized version).

 

Geoff

 

Wow! You made that?! What a wonderful job! --Dulce-Joy

[+buttaskotch]

I've had trouble finding small log books suitable for 1/3 litre Lock&Lock boxes etc. I know that GS do a tiny logbook, but it's hideously expensive IMO. So, I thought that I'd give making my own a go and a couple of hours work produced the logbook pictured below. Pages are approx A8 in size with the overall dimensions of approx 2.5" x 3". I've used a high-quality paper and there are 94 usable pages (i.e. 188 sides). The book is case-bound (sewn) for durability, although it's not "lay-flat". I'm quite pleased with the results. However, the cover of this one is calico, which might absorb moisture, so I'm looking for a more moisture-resistant covering material for the next.

 

Here's the photos (click each for the full-sized version).

 

Geoff

 

Wow! You made that?! What a wonderful job! --Dulce-Joy

wow, nice! fyi, I use Tyvek as a water repellent log

[+ngrrfan]

I just cut down small spiral bound pocket notebooks.

[+niraD]

I've bound a few handmade books before. Yours looks very nice. But for a log book that's going to sit in a geocache, I'm with ngrrfan. I use my band saw to cut down spiral-bound notebooks to the size I want.

[+ras_oscar]

I've always appreciated a well fabricated log book. Its nice, especialy on the older caches where people used to leave long descriptive logs. I suspect a book like yours would encourage more thoughtful entries. As to waterproof, I'd put it in a ziplock. Walmart pharmacy has pill pouches that are heavy weight double zip bags, if there's one large enough.

[+Printess Caroline]

I've had trouble finding small log books suitable for 1/3 litre Lock&Lock boxes etc. I know that GS do a tiny logbook, but it's hideously expensive IMO. So, I thought that I'd give making my own a go and a couple of hours work produced the logbook pictured below. Pages are approx A8 in size with the overall dimensions of approx 2.5" x 3". I've used a high-quality paper and there are 94 usable pages (i.e. 188 sides). The book is case-bound (sewn) for durability, although it's not "lay-flat". I'm quite pleased with the results. However, the cover of this one is calico, which might absorb moisture, so I'm looking for a more moisture-resistant covering material for the next.

 

Here's the photos (click each for the full-sized version).

 

Geoff

 

Impressive! Beautiful work! As ras_oscar says, it may inspire more thoughtful written logs. I know that I would pause longer at your cache because of your log book.

[+ConsHaltonCache]

Very nicely made. Looks very professional.

Do you have a tutorial on how to make them?

[+ConsHaltonCache]

I think I found a tutorial of sorts...I googled "Case-bound" and think I get the idea.

Dude...I think I now have another project to try my hand at! ;P (not that I don't already have enough)

Yours looks great. Love the cover.

[Pajaholic]

Thanks all for the comments.

 

FWIW, I've tried cutting down larger spiral-bound books. However, I can't source ones with small-enough binding diameter and the ones I've made look very oversized. I've got about a dozen that I leave as temporary replacement logbooks for "finder maintenance" on other people's caches I find with full logs. I've also got a wire-binding machine, but even the smallest-diameter spirals I can find look oversized when used with an A8-ish pad.

 

I don't want to go to the expense of Tyvek or Rite in the rain. I make a point of using good-quality containers (typically genuine Lock&Lock) and also using ziploc baggies to protect the logs. The paper I'm using is 100gsm and not very hygroscopic. I've had samples out in garden trials in various containers and this paper's stood up well to daily signing over six months or so. The logs I currently have in the field have nowhere as good quality paper and they've stood up well thanks to the containers they're in.

 

To be honest, I hadn't thought of the effect that these logs might have on finders. ras_oscar might well be correct. Thinking of it, I know that I've spent some time looking back through "nice" logbooks to see who's found the cache before me. Although I've still signed the physical log with little more than TFTC I've tended to write online logs with more thought for caches with "nicer" logbooks, locations, etc.

 

WRT tutorials: I've combined what I've learned from half a dozen or so plus picked the brains of a bookbinding forum. I also have a friend who's been in the print trade for decades, who thus has loads of machine-binding experience, and who's offered some good advice. That said, about the only essential bits that I couldn't get from tutorials are:

1. You can't press too much. So at almost every stage the folios, signatures, etc. are kept in either a book press or laying press (or, rather, my approximation of those presses!) This keeps the spine nice and tight so it isn't that much thicker than the fore edge.
   
2. How to use a really sharp chisel to "plough" the fore edge. You need a paring chisel that you could shave with and then some thin ply or card behind the book block so you don't tear the last page or two. I mount the lot in a laying press and use the press faces as a guide.
   

I may put together a tutorial once I know I can easily reproduce my method. However, as ConsHaltonCache has discovered, there are several tutorials on the 'net.

 

Thanks again,

 

Geoff

[+WRITE SHOP ROBERT]

 

To be honest, I hadn't thought of the effect that these logs might have on finders. .

 

I also have a friend who's been in the print trade for decades, who thus has loads of machine-binding experience, and who's offered some good advice.

 

I have noticed that there are nicer logs written in nicer books, for the most part. I like to use better books than the typical spiral bound whenever I can. I also have made my own, with comb bindings(the snap closed kind) and with staple bindings.

 

You shouls be able to get lots of high quality scraps from your friend, that can be used to make your smaller books. I love reusing thince that would otherwise go into the recycle stream. It saves resources to reuse something instaed or recycling it(or dumping it).

[AZcachemeister]

I've had trouble finding small log books suitable for 1/3 litre Lock&Lock boxes etc. I know that GS do a tiny logbook, but it's hideously expensive IMO. So, I thought that I'd give making my own a go and a couple of hours work produced the logbook pictured below. Pages are approx A8 in size with the overall dimensions of approx 2.5" x 3". I've used a high-quality paper and there are 94 usable pages (i.e. 188 sides). The book is case-bound (sewn) for durability, although it's not "lay-flat". I'm quite pleased with the results. However, the cover of this one is calico, which might absorb moisture, so I'm looking for a more moisture-resistant covering material for the next.

 

Here's the photos (click each for the full-sized version).

 

Geoff

 

That's an AWESOME logbook I would be more than proud to leave my signature in!

 

It certainly beats the holy carp out a post-it-note pad with a staple through it.

[+popokiiti]

I've always appreciated a well fabricated log book. Its nice, especialy on the older caches where people used to leave long descriptive logs. I suspect a book like yours would encourage more thoughtful entries. As to waterproof, I'd put it in a ziplock. Walmart pharmacy has pill pouches that are heavy weight double zip bags, if there's one large enough.

Thanks for the tip on the pill pouches....good to know!

[+Ambrosia]

I've always appreciated a well fabricated log book. Its nice, especialy on the older caches where people used to leave long descriptive logs. I suspect a book like yours would encourage more thoughtful entries. As to waterproof, I'd put it in a ziplock. Walmart pharmacy has pill pouches that are heavy weight double zip bags, if there's one large enough.

Thanks for the tip on the pill pouches....good to know!

I use pill ziplocs from the Safeway pharmacy for my micro logsheets. They are quite heavy and durable. I need to look at Wal-mart to see about larger ones, I just haven't yet.

[+TomToad]

Recently found mini notepads at party City. you get 12 of them for about $3 and each have about 15 pages.

http://www.partycity.com/p2p/searchResults...cend&page=1

Also found some from Staples

http://www.staples.com/Staples-3-x-5-Top-B...140571:SS199992

Slightly bigger and more expensive, but better quality.

Edited April 19, 2010 by TomToad

[+briansnat]

Here is what I do.

 

[+The Chaos Crew]

I love your casebound book!

 

I made a casebound book once and remember it being a LOT of work, more than I'd be prepared to put into a log book, that's for sure

 

That said, I do always (ie both times....I've only hidden 2 caches so far) make my own logbooks, with a custom cover naming the cache, and featuring the Geocaching logo and our own team logo.

 

I bind the books using a Bind-It-All machine

[Pajaholic]

Tom Toad: I had a look at those links. Unfortunately, they're not available where I live and 3" x 5" (the Staples books) are twice the "footprint" of what I need and so won't fit into the cache containers I use.

 

Briansnat: Assuming that's a dime coin in your piccy (which according to a quick google is just less than 3/4" dia), that bottom logbook is about the right "footprint". However, I haven't seen anything like that where I live - either that size to start or that can be cut down to that size - except for pads where the binding is at least twice the diameter of what you have.

 

The Chaos Crew: I cheated! There are no head and tail bands and there is no proper hinge (the first and last leafs serve as hinges and "paste-downs"), but on something this small I can get away with that and still have something pretty durable. FWIW, the book block is taped and sewn and I've used muslin where a typically sized book would have mull, so there is something more substantial than just the first and last leafs holding the book block to the case!

 

With enough room for almost 200 sigs, I suspect that these log books will last the life expectancy of many caches, whereas with something that has only 15 leaves I'd need to replace the logs twice or more each year!

 

FWIW, I'm hoping that my local "bankrupt stock" store might have some lightweight leatherette. Although I'll have to buy half a yard at least off the roll, it should give me a durable, attractive, and non-hygroscopic covering. If I can get some, watch this space for the result!

 

Geoff

[+jd350az]

Tom Toad: I had a look at those links. Unfortunately, they're not available where I live and 3" x 5" (the Staples books) are twice the "footprint" of what I need and so won't fit into the cache containers I use.

 

Briansnat: Assuming that's a dime coin in your piccy (which according to a quick google is just less than 3/4" dia), that bottom logbook is about the right "footprint". However, I haven't seen anything like that where I live - either that size to start or that can be cut down to that size - except for pads where the binding is at least twice the diameter of what you have.

 

The Chaos Crew: I cheated! There are no head and tail bands and there is no proper hinge (the first and last leafs serve as hinges and "paste-downs"), but on something this small I can get away with that and still have something pretty durable. FWIW, the book block is taped and sewn and I've used muslin where a typically sized book would have mull, so there is something more substantial than just the first and last leafs holding the book block to the case!

 

With enough room for almost 200 sigs, I suspect that these log books will last the life expectancy of many caches, whereas with something that has only 15 leaves I'd need to replace the logs twice or more each year!

 

FWIW, I'm hoping that my local "bankrupt stock" store might have some lightweight leatherette. Although I'll have to buy half a yard at least off the roll, it should give me a durable, attractive, and non-hygroscopic covering. If I can get some, watch this space for the result!

 

Geoff

 

Its a Quarter in his picture, just under 1" diameter

[+slukster]

After many frustrating attempts to remove your typical micro log from a bison tube I started making my own micro log books that were easier to retrieve and you don't have to unroll and re-roll the log.

 

Photos courtesy of cacher WiiRule

I find that I have to replace them more often because they don't have as many lines to write on but that isn't a problem for me.

[+briansnat]

Briansnat: Assuming that's a dime coin in your piccy (which according to a quick google is just less than 3/4" dia), that bottom logbook is about the right "footprint". However, I haven't seen anything like that where I live - either that size to start or that can be cut down to that size - except for pads where the binding is at least twice the diameter of what you have.

 

I simply cut the smaller of the two logs from a larger spiral bound note pad like the one above it. I could cut it even smaller if need be. I usually get 3 small logbooks from a single 3" x 5" steno pad, but can get 4 if I cut them smaller.

[+Knight2000]

Thanks for putting such a great effort into having a nice cache and for sharing. This has inspired me. I think we'll try that too.

[+roziecakes]

I'm really impressed! I make my own logbooks too, but they are not half so nice as those. Great job

[+Jackalgirl]

Check out the following links:

 

Coptic Binding (look at the bottom of the page, after reading about required materials, for the link to the page that actually describes the technique)

 

(The Altered Book site also has a techniques page that has information on, among other things, making your own paste paper, if you're interested in that sort of thing*)

 

*Great activity for kids. And makes some really cool paper for binding books, too!

 

Japanese Stab Binding - 'cause you have to love a binding technique with the word "stab" in it.

 

A really, really, really nice how-to for case-binding using nice cloth hinges, and includes instructions for headbands and everything. This is probably way beyond the pale for log books; it's actually intended for use by librarians. But it is pretty darn cool.

 

When I make log books, I generally keep it to one signature and sew it up like a fancy greeting card (I use embroidery floss to sew the signature to a heavier-stock cover). I'd probably use coptic binding for something heavier -- one of the advantages of coptic binding is that the book will lay flat when open, which I think would be handy for people juggling pens, books, GPSrs, and swag in the field.

 

Pajaholic, your book looks beautiful. Great job!

Edited April 21, 2010 by Jackalgirl

[BCProspectors]

For nano caches it is best to use a professionally made logbook. I had one nano cache's logbook completely fall apart when I opened it. Fortunately we were in our vehicle when this happened or that would have been the end of that cache.

[+The Kamikaze Clan]

For nano caches it is best to use a professionally made logbook. I had one nano cache's logbook completely fall apart when I opened it. Fortunately we were in our vehicle when this happened or that would have been the end of that cache.

 

I´m quite new to caching, and I´m still working on caches to be placed. In the smaller container I will use logbooks made of matte plastic film intended for technical drawings. It´s totally impervious to water and are made to write on.

[+Knight2000]

We have used camo cloth to camo our caches. I was thinking how cool it would be to have the log book match the cache! Darn it! Now you have cost me money! I need to go buy some craft stuff and make a press!

 

For nano caches it is best to use a professionally made logbook. I had one nano cache's logbook completely fall apart when I opened it. Fortunately we were in our vehicle when this happened or that would have been the end of that cache.

I´m quite new to caching, and I´m still working on caches to be placed. In the smaller container I will use logbooks made of matte plastic film intended for technical drawings. It´s totally impervious to water and are made to write on.

Thank you!!! (I've been trying to preach that too.)

Edited April 21, 2010 by Knight2000

[Pajaholic]

We have used camo cloth to camo our caches. I was thinking how cool it would be to have the log book match the cache! Darn it! Now you have cost me money! I need to go buy some craft stuff and make a press!

LOL, just hope someone doesn't drop it in the undergrowth!

 

You're going to need at least two presses (laying press and a book press), and if you "back" the spine you'll also need a backing/finishing press. Come to it, I might make myself a backing/finishing press since it looks a lot easier to glue up the book block in one of those than in a laying press.

 

That said, my "book press" consists of a piece of old floorboard and a couple of dead 7Ah gel lead-acid batteries. The book is placed on the bench, the floorboard on top of that, and the batteries on the floorboard as weights. My laying press is two pieces of 2x1 about 18" long and two clamps. For ploughing the fore edge, I clamp the book block and 2x1s in a vice. There are some very nice designs for making the real things, but you can get by if you haven't the time or inclination to make them and don't want the expense of buying them.

 

Another tip (one I discovered for myself) is to use polythene sheet to protect the jaws of the press and under the paste-down for gluing as it's a lot easier to separate poly sheet from the glued-up bits than it is to separate from the laying press etc.

 

BTW, thanks both for the tip about the drawing film. I've been using the stuff for years for various things and never thought to make log sheets out of it.

 

Geoff

[+ZSandmann]

I got some great ideas from this thread.

 

Pajaholic, I love you log book. A couple of things I thought of would be to make the cover out of vinyl adhesive bookcovers, we used them on our highschool textbooks to protect them so we didn't have to pay to replace them at the end of the year. Should be waterproof and comes in many colors. If you can't find that then maybe adhesive shelfpaper?

 

And you can buy Rite In The Rain paper online. The combo of RITR paper and a vinyl cover would make for a waterprrof custom logbook!

 

I've also experimented with overhead projector vellum as a log. Works great as long as there is a Sharpie provided, and a clear logsheet is neat.

[+tango501]

[+Knight2000]

So I tried one last night. I used standard computer paper, camo cloth from walmart ($1.50/yard), cardboard from a cereal box. I should have pressed it differently when I put the signatures together. I did press it with weights when I did the cover and it worked just fine. I would like to find a different adhesive. I used some rubber cement and white glue for the cover. It is 4x3.

 

It's really hard to see but if you look a while you can make it out.

 

 

This is the latest incarnation of log books that we have been using. I like these with the clear front so the labels under it are protected. In the back we put a fold out sheet that has the geocaching sheet. It has a paperclip to hold the folded part. No one will open it up but a non-cacher. (I think.) Notice the note that asks people to write about thei caching experience.

 

 

The nice thing about the handmade one is that it might entice people to write more than their name.

[Pajaholic]

Knight2000: That looks a great job. Did you trim the edges of the book block or are you just super-accurate when assembling?

 

FWIW, I use PVA for all gluing operations. Some of the tutorials I've read suggest using wallpaper adhesive for pasting the first and last pages (i.e. the paste-downs) to the case, but I'm concerned it won't be enough for something that's going to spend its life in a box in the woods!

[+Knight2000]

Knight2000: That looks a great job. Did you trim the edges of the book block or are you just super-accurate when assembling?

 

FWIW, I use PVA for all gluing operations. Some of the tutorials I've read suggest using wallpaper adhesive for pasting the first and last pages (i.e. the paste-downs) to the case, but I'm concerned it won't be enough for something that's going to spend its life in a box in the woods!

I don't know what I am doing. I am anal though. If the book block is just the signatures put together... I did not trim them. (I'm not sure how I would do that. I suppose I could do it with a chop saw but I think it would look worse if I did that. I would have to smash it between wood to get that to work.) I just did the best I could. It's not great. The picture is just blurry!

 

 

I wanted to use PVA as that is what I saw online. I went to a [huge] craft store and asked for it. One person asked the next and when it was all done 4 people said they had never heard of it. I read somewhere that white elmers is a form of PVA so I used that. I'm not sure how it will do getting moist. (Fortunately all of our caches stay dry... so far. ) I also was looking for some sort of fabric tape to use on the end. They didn't seem to figure that one out either. I probably could get that at walmart if I looked. Heck I could use first aid tape. I'm not sure.

 

I was hasty putting it together. I would do many things differently if I did it again. I should have pressed the signatures together a lot more when binding it. I don't even know if that is what it is called. I used some rubber cement on the end and then I took a scrap piece of fabric and used it as a web over the end. That was attached with rubber cement too.

 

I added two end pieces of nicer stifer paper to attach the hard cover to. That worked out decent. I made the spine too big. The cardboard should be stiffer. Being thin coupled with the glue made it flimsier than I would have liked.

 

Besides the inital supplies and time this thing was cheap to make. Now if I could just bring myself around to making some duct tape wallets for caches. (A past hobby of mine.)

 

[Pajaholic]

PVA stands for poly-vinyl adhesive although I suspect that a country that calls courgettes zucchini, aubergines egg-plants, etc. might have another name for it! Most white woodworking glues are of this type (I'm using Evo-stik although my local craft store has general-purpose PVA for a lot less) and I suspect that your white glue might also be a PVA.

 

How to trim the edges (sorry for the lack of pictures):

1. Place a piece of stiff card or thin plywood behind the book block (this protects the last few pages from tearing as you finish trimming the edge.
   
2. Place the assembly between a couple of pieces of wood then place this into a vice
   
3. Using a very sharp chisel and using the front piece of wood as a guide, start trimming the leaves. Hold the chisel at a slight angle (i.e. couple of degrees) as you move it left-to-right then right-to-left so that the the trailing edge of the blade contacts the book block. As you do this, you'll get strips of paper coming away from the block like confetti. Don't use a lot of pressure as that risks tearing the pages - let the blade do the work.
   
4. If desired, once you've done the fore edge (i.e. the edge furthest from the spine) you can repeat on the top and bottom edges - but be careful at the spine end of each edge as anything more than light pressure might damage the spine.
   

You could also buy a ploughing plane or get your local printers to trim it on their power guillotine - but that's more expensive.

 

BTW, the chisel really does need to be sharp (enough to shave with) and you need to hone the back of the blade so that the back of the edge is completely flat. If you don't, the chisel will ride up and won't give a square cut across the block.

 

HTH,

 

Geoff

[+NYPaddleCacher]

Tom Toad: I had a look at those links. Unfortunately, they're not available where I live and 3" x 5" (the Staples books) are twice the "footprint" of what I need and so won't fit into the cache containers I use.

 

Briansnat: Assuming that's a dime coin in your piccy (which according to a quick google is just less than 3/4" dia), that bottom logbook is about the right "footprint". However, I haven't seen anything like that where I live - either that size to start or that can be cut down to that size - except for pads where the binding is at least twice the diameter of what you have.

 

The Chaos Crew: I cheated! There are no head and tail bands and there is no proper hinge (the first and last leafs serve as hinges and "paste-downs"), but on something this small I can get away with that and still have something pretty durable. FWIW, the book block is taped and sewn and I've used muslin where a typically sized book would have mull, so there is something more substantial than just the first and last leafs holding the book block to the case!

 

With enough room for almost 200 sigs, I suspect that these log books will last the life expectancy of many caches, whereas with something that has only 15 leaves I'd need to replace the logs twice or more each year!

 

FWIW, I'm hoping that my local "bankrupt stock" store might have some lightweight leatherette. Although I'll have to buy half a yard at least off the roll, it should give me a durable, attractive, and non-hygroscopic covering. If I can get some, watch this space for the result!

 

Geoff

 

Its a Quarter in his picture, just under 1" diameter

 

It used to be a dime but since that was posted it has grown due to inflation.

[+Knight2000]

I would also add printing to the beginning pages. You could print out the geocache spiel and the cache name and GC-ID.