Is a ziplock good?

[+Coldgears]

I hid a multi! Well it was great, and everyone who did it loved it. Recently I got a message saying the puzzle paper is very damp. Without this the final coords cannot be solved. I had used a playdough container, I thought it would be perfect! I had always assumed they were airtight to prevent the playdough from hardening. Apparently after still managed to get in some how. My question is, should I replace the container or just put the paper in a zip lock? If a zip lock is no good PLEASE give me a good replacement container the size of a micro... That wouldn't cost anything to make, as I am very poor right now and cannot afford a few dollars for a replacement. Something that would be lying around the house...

[+FamilyDNA]

If you can, laminate the sheet before putting it in a container. You can even "laminate" with clear packing tape. It should last longer than just a sheet of paper that way.

[+Coldgears]

If you can, laminate the sheet before putting it in a container. You can even "laminate" with clear packing tape. It should last longer than just a sheet of paper that way.

You're a genius!

[GOF and Bacall]

You can get a match container from the camping gear section of Wally World for about a buck.

[+DragonsWest]

If you can, laminate the sheet before putting it in a container. You can even "laminate" with clear packing tape. It should last longer than just a sheet of paper that way.

 

Do not use clear packing tape - the adhesive for most clear packing tapes softens with the presence of water and you are not only back to square one, but your sheet may become illegible with mold. Heat will also dry/harden these adhesives.

 

Best bet is lamination, which many printing/copying businesses will perform. Trim extra lamination with at least 1/4 inch (or 0.5 cm) to spare, around the laminated sheet, to ensure the watertight seal is maintained. Too close to the laminated sheet and water will again leech in.

[+dorqie]

my beef with ziplocks, and other cheaper versions of ziplocks is that it can be hard to tell if they are closed, and if a cacher thinks they have closed it, but left a bit open by mistake, there might as well be no bag at all.

I favor the ones with the tow coloured zipper that turns green when it closes, or even better, ones that have a "zipper pull" type closure

[GOF and Bacall]

If a ziploc is your first line of defense you will have a wet log. The ziploc is more for incidental moisture. The container needs to be waterproof or it needs to be in a place that it will not get wet. The Sahara comes to mind.

[+DragonsWest]

Ziplocs are initially good, but, like all things in caches suffer with time and eventually leak. Worse, though, is they may trap water in with the log and anything else contained in the bag. I've pulled some pretty sorry bags and contents from caches over the years.

[+Harry Dolphin]

If you can, laminate the sheet before putting it in a container. You can even "laminate" with clear packing tape. It should last longer than just a sheet of paper that way.

You're a genius!

 

I use Staples Hot-laminating pouches. (Don't remember what I paid for them. Probably under $10 for 25.) 3-1/2 x 5-1/2. Seal with a warm iron. They work great! (Tape doesn't work.)

Somewhere on a "You know you're a geocacher when..." thread, I added "When the only time you use your iron is to laminate an intermediate step for a multi or mystery cache."

[+Chrysalides]

For those posting about failure of ziploc, please note that OP is not using it for the log, but for an intermediate stage. There should be no need to open / close the ziploc. Still, I agree laminate is a better solution.

 

I found an intermediate stage once. The coordinates are stamped on a piece of metal. No worries about a wet piece of paper there

[+Coldgears]

If you can, laminate the sheet before putting it in a container. You can even "laminate" with clear packing tape. It should last longer than just a sheet of paper that way.

 

Do not use clear packing tape - the adhesive for most clear packing tapes softens with the presence of water and you are not only back to square one, but your sheet may become illegible with mold. Heat will also dry/harden these adhesives.

 

How long would it last? If it'll last a few good months then I'll have no issue repairing it when needed, if it will only last a few days then I'll probably laminate. I have packaging tape and no laminating paper so that seems like my best bet... So how long will it take to be ruined?

[+Mosaic55]

Do you have any used tyvek envelopes laying around? Like the ones Fedex supplies for shipping? Just find a clear area and cut out a piece, write on it with a Sharpie and allow to dry. It should hold up to casual wetness pretty well. Maybe even put it in a small ziplock if you believe in the belt and suspenders approach to caching (and life).

Edited June 5, 2010 by Mosaic55

[+Indotguy]

Freezer ziplocs are the best.

[+Ambrosia]

my beef with ziplocks, and other cheaper versions of ziplocks is that it can be hard to tell if they are closed, and if a cacher thinks they have closed it, but left a bit open by mistake, there might as well be no bag at all.

I favor the ones with the tow coloured zipper that turns green when it closes, or even better, ones that have a "zipper pull" type closure

I do agree that the ziplocs that change color would probably be better. But as has been mentioned earlier, please don't use the zipper pull type. They are notorious within geocaching for breaking very quickly. In fact, I'm not sure if I've ever found one out in a geocache that wasn't broken.

[+Chrysalides]

Do you have any used tyvek envelopes laying around? Like the ones Fedex supplies for shipping? Just find a clear area and cut out a piece, write on it with a Sharpie and allow to dry. It should hold up to casual wetness pretty well. Maybe even put it in a small ziplock if you believe in the belt and suspenders approach to caching (and life).

I like this idea! Note : the inside is blank.

[+Coldgears]

Do you have any used tyvek envelopes laying around? Like the ones Fedex supplies for shipping? Just find a clear area and cut out a piece, write on it with a Sharpie and allow to dry. It should hold up to casual wetness pretty well. Maybe even put it in a small ziplock if you believe in the belt and suspenders approach to caching (and life).

It's a puzzle! It requires you to do *** (don't want spoilers) to solve it. You can't right it out... IT HAS to be printed... I think I'll put it in clear tape and see how long it'll last.

[Mr.Yuck]

For those posting about failure of ziploc, please note that OP is not using it for the log, but for an intermediate stage. There should be no need to open / close the ziploc. Still, I agree laminate is a better solution.

 

I found an intermediate stage once. The coordinates are stamped on a piece of metal. No worries about a wet piece of paper there

 

How about those zany 1970's plastic label makers where you move the wheel to the appropriate number, and stamp it in on the plastic, which is on a reel? I have seen (and used) them a couple of times. Of course we still have one at work, I never tried to walk into Office Depot and buy one in this day and age.

[4wheelin_fool]

You can also use a can of spray paint type clear coat. Find a suitable object and spray it until it's soaked and stick the paper to it. Once it dries, spray a few light coats overtop.

[+DragonsWest]

You can also use a can of spray paint type clear coat. Find a suitable object and spray it until it's soaked and stick the paper to it. Once it dries, spray a few light coats overtop.

 

The problem with clear coat is it may make your ink run or blur. Not the perfect solution.

 

Labelmaker tape sounds good, if you can find one of the old ones which emboss in plastic.

 

Packing tape isn't a matter of months, but the first time it comes into contact with water, overnight and it's goo.

 

Writing with a sharpie isn't a guarantee, either as the ink scratches off plastics quite easily. Much handling and it may become hard to read.

 

Honestly, print it on a sheet of paper and take it to kinkos or such for laminating, it's a lot less bother than most other ideas. You could also take some sheets down with notices of Official Geocache and such while you are at it.

[+Vater_Araignee]

piece of plastic

vice grips

nail

candle

 

or chuck the vice grips, nail, and candle and get a dremel.

[+mchaos]

I had used a playdough container, I thought it would be perfect! I had always assumed they were airtight to prevent the playdough from hardening. Apparently after still managed to get in some how.

 

If there is one thing I have learned from geocaching, its that moisture seems to find its way into almost any cache container. Its an amazing thing moisture. When its out side, with the changing temps, and humidity, as the container heats up, the air inside expands, and pushes its way out. As it cools, there is a vacuum, and its inevitable that it will pull a bit of air back in. Over time you end up pulling in moister from the air, and it just sits in there.

 

From what I have found the only containers that really keep out moisture are Ammo cans, Lock and locks, and any thing meant to be "water proof" with some sort of gasket to seal it like those orange match stick holders.

 

I hate to find regular glad-ware as a cache container because every one I have ever found has been very damp inside.

 

As for zip-lock bags, You should use them as an extra safety measure in any cache container against moister but they almost never last. Yellow and blue make green or not, so many hands in the pie so to speak, its gonna get a rip. I find so many ripped. I have actually thought about putting a box of zip-locks in my geo-pack for when I run into a ripped one. Then there is always the excited quick cacher who doesn't even bother to zip the lock, and tosses it back in.

 

If some one came up with a bag that was thicker, specifically for caching, I know I would buy a bunch.

Edited June 5, 2010 by mchaos

[+power69]

I had used a playdough container, I thought it would be perfect! I had always assumed they were airtight to prevent the playdough from hardening. Apparently after still managed to get in some how.

 

If there is one thing I have learned from geocaching, its that moisture seems to find its way into almost any cache container. Its an amazing thing moisture. When its out side, with the changing temps, and humidity, as the container heats up, the air inside expands, and pushes its way out. As it cools, there is a vacuum, and its inevitable that it will pull a bit of air back in. Over time you end up pulling in moister from the air, and it just sits in there.

 

From what I have found the only containers that really keep out moisture are Ammo cans, Lock and locks, and any thing meant to be "water proof" with some sort of gasket to seal it like those orange match stick holders.

 

I hate to find regular glad-ware as a cache container because every one I have ever found has been very damp inside.

 

As for zip-lock bags, You should use them as an extra safety measure in any cache container against moister but they almost never last. Yellow and blue make green or not, so many hands in the pie so to speak, its gonna get a rip. I find so many ripped. I have actually thought about putting a box of zip-locks in my geo-pack for when I run into a ripped one. Then there is always the excited quick cacher who doesn't even bother to zip the lock, and tosses it back in.

 

If some one came up with a bag that was thicker, specifically for caching, I know I would buy a bunch.

gladware doesn't stand up to UV very well either

[GOF and Bacall]

For those posting about failure of ziploc, please note that OP is not using it for the log, but for an intermediate stage. There should be no need to open / close the ziploc. Still, I agree laminate is a better solution.

 

I found an intermediate stage once. The coordinates are stamped on a piece of metal. No worries about a wet piece of paper there

 

How about those zany 1970's plastic label makers where you move the wheel to the appropriate number, and stamp it in on the plastic, which is on a reel? I have seen (and used) them a couple of times. Of course we still have one at work, I never tried to walk into Office Depot and buy one in this day and age.

 

I use one for intermediate stages one some of my multis. You can still buy them at Wally World and other places that carry school/office supplies.

[+mchaos]

If you can, laminate the sheet before putting it in a container. You can even "laminate" with clear packing tape. It should last longer than just a sheet of paper that way.

 

Laminating helps, But I have yet to find a laminated sheet that hasn't had moisture get to it either. Still though, the paper is in tact and readable.

[4wheelin_fool]

You can also use a can of spray paint type clear coat. Find a suitable object and spray it until it's soaked and stick the paper to it. Once it dries, spray a few light coats overtop.

 

The problem with clear coat is it may make your ink run or blur. Not the perfect solution.

 

 

Well, then it should be laminated first.

 

I've done it a few times, and it did look a little fuzzy but was OK.

[+bittsen]

Here's how you can do waterproof coords on the cheap.

 

Go to a BIG print shop. THey have to have BIG presses.

Ask if you can have a used printing plate. Tell them you just need one for a project and the aluminim thickness is perfect.

Most print shops will oblige.

 

The printing plate you will receive will be pretty big but really flat aluminum. It will be about .010" thick. You will be able to make 100 or so tags out of one large printing plate.

 

Now, you can either scribe your coords into the plate or go to Harbor Freight and get a letter punch set to mark the tags.

To scribe the tag, the best method would be to put the tag on something firm, yet soft, so the scribe will emboss the tag.

Again, and old used printers blanket would be perfect and printing blankets aren't even recycled. Most print shops will gladly give away a trashed printers blanket and they work wonderfuly as a backer for the punch set as well. Most press operators will have a small stash of trashed (damaged beyond usability) blankets standing by for whatever reason so there is usually no problem getting a free blanket. I suppose it helps to understand that a "blanket" is very sturdy cloth-backed rubber sheet. They are great for crafters as well.

As a caveat, whenever you ask for stuff from the "garbage" of the print shops, remember that printers deal with ink so the blankets and plates may have some residual ink on them. You don't want to get ink in your vehicle so bring a trash bag or ask for some help in securing the ink from your car. To remove ink from plates and blankets at home, rubbing alcohol will work but most any garage chemical will work better (acetone, gasoline, carbureator cleaner, etc.).

 

Hope that helps.

 

Edit to add. To cut printing plates, just use some old scissors (plates will dull those expensive sewing scissors) or you can score the surface with a razor knife and bend it. The metal will give along the score line and break pretty clean with some practice.

Edited June 5, 2010 by bittsen

[+mchaos]

I have used Testors dull coat. I saturated a few logs with it. Did not make ink run. paper is still writable.

 

I put one in a zip-lock full of water for about a week. It did not fall apart, however it would tear some what easily, and you couldn't write on it wet, but after letting it dry out it was good as new. Like it had never been in water.

 

I have treated some of my logs with this method.

[+bittsen]

If you really want to use paper, here's something to try.

 

Take your small piece of paper and impregnate it with wax. To do this...

 

Take an old wax candle or other piece of wax and put it in a saucepan. Heat the wax until it's completely melted and keep it heating till it's watery (but NOT smoking). Pit your piece of paper in the watery hot wax and use a metal utensil to "dob" it around in the wax until the paper is completely saturated.

Use tongs to remove the paper from the molten wax and place it on a HOT flat smooth surface and use a credit card (or other squeegee like device) to squeeze the wax off of the surface of the paper.

If you try to squeegee the wax on a cold surface it will be almost impossible to get a good elimination of excess wax.

 

Once the paper is squeegied, it's ready to use.

 

Give it a try.

 

P.S. the wax will NOT ruin the saucepan. If you use a stainless steel pan (such as Revere Ware) it will clean up really easy. If you use something other than a metal utensil for dobbing the paper in the wax, it may be hard to remove the wax from the utensil. Wooden spoons will be ruined if you try them.

[+Zwack_&_Irish_Eyes]

If some one came up with a bag that was thicker, specifically for caching, I know I would buy a bunch.

 

Not specifically for Caching but aLokSaks are thicker and waterproof... provided that they are sealed properly.

 

aLokSak web site

 

Z.

[+narcissa]

 

How about those zany 1970's plastic label makers where you move the wheel to the appropriate number, and stamp it in on the plastic, which is on a reel? I have seen (and used) them a couple of times. Of course we still have one at work, I never tried to walk into Office Depot and buy one in this day and age.

 

These, and copper tags, are the most common types of multi waypoints around here. I've become very good at spotting them.

[+Jackalgirl]

piece of plastic

vice grips

nail

candle

 

or chuck the vice grips, nail, and candle and get a dremel.

 

+1. Engraving the info into a piece of plastic with a Dremel sounds like an excellent way to go, provided you've got a steady hand. Micro-Mark (google it) also makes a mini-engraver that might work nicely. If you don't have a steady hand and don't mind the added expense, see if Things Remembered or some other shop with an engraver could do it for you.

[Clan Riffster]

The container needs to be waterproof or it needs to be in a place that it will not get wet.

Agreed. A rule of thumb I like to blather about often is, if you must use a ziplock to keep your log dry, your container has already failed at a very basic level. Start with a quality container, then you can explore lamination vs. ziplock to avoid incidental moisture. Soda bottle preforms and match containers come to mind.