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New Coin Designing

dmrodco

By dmrodco
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fox-and-the-hound

+fox-and-the-hound

Posted
Posted

I see that a lot of coin designs are using PMS for coloring. Does anyone know where I can find a cheap set of PMS? (no pun intended). Also, I assume PMS C would be the idea choice for coasted coins and PMS UC would be for uncoated ones?

 

thx

d

 

I haven't any idea where you could get a "cheap" set other than maybe a college student who's selling off their supplies. I still have all of mine (even though you're supposed to replace them every couple years) stored in dark-boxes. Coated vs. uncoated is an interesting question though since I've never seen a matte finish enamel. I'm not sure if they're available, but I would be interested in finding out. :wub:

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ozymandiasism

+ozymandiasism

Posted
Posted

I see that a lot of coin designs are using PMS for coloring. Does anyone know where I can find a cheap set of PMS? (no pun intended). Also, I assume PMS C would be the idea choice for coasted coins and PMS UC would be for uncoated ones?

 

thx

d

 

I haven't any idea where you could get a "cheap" set other than maybe a college student who's selling off their supplies. I still have all of mine (even though you're supposed to replace them every couple years) stored in dark-boxes. Coated vs. uncoated is an interesting question though since I've never seen a matte finish enamel. I'm not sure if they're available, but I would be interested in finding out. :wub:

 

Anyone will trade a PMS set with a few coins????? LOL

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fox-and-the-hound

+fox-and-the-hound

Posted
Posted

I see that a lot of coin designs are using PMS for coloring. Does anyone know where I can find a cheap set of PMS? (no pun intended). Also, I assume PMS C would be the idea choice for coasted coins and PMS UC would be for uncoated ones?

 

thx

d

 

I haven't any idea where you could get a "cheap" set other than maybe a college student who's selling off their supplies. I still have all of mine (even though you're supposed to replace them every couple years) stored in dark-boxes. Coated vs. uncoated is an interesting question though since I've never seen a matte finish enamel. I'm not sure if they're available, but I would be interested in finding out. :wub:

 

Anyone will trade a PMS set with a few coins????? LOL

 

Wish I could help, but at $120+ a set for coated/uncoated/matte I just can't swing it :unsure: You might also check your local art store and see if they have any slightly older (but usually still pretty good) books that they'd give you a price break on.

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WxGuesser

+WxGuesser

Posted
Posted

I don't think it really matters what you use... because your vendor has software that will make it look slightly different from just about any software that you use. basically give your vendor the best possible idea of what you want... it should turn out nicely. I just designed 2 military coins. one for my commander and one for the squadron (we're a new sqd)... the coins turned out awesome! :wub:

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ozymandiasism

+ozymandiasism

Posted
Posted

I don't think it really matters what you use... because your vendor has software that will make it look slightly different from just about any software that you use. basically give your vendor the best possible idea of what you want... it should turn out nicely. I just designed 2 military coins. one for my commander and one for the squadron (we're a new sqd)... the coins turned out awesome! :wub:

 

Isn't the PMS software universal? I mean.... you look at the physical color palette and choose the color that you want and select that number on your computer..?

 

You should talk to my buddy. He's been designing tons of military insignia (including new overseas divisions). He's actually the guy that designed my coin!

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fox-and-the-hound

+fox-and-the-hound

Posted
Posted

I don't think it really matters what you use... because your vendor has software that will make it look slightly different from just about any software that you use. basically give your vendor the best possible idea of what you want... it should turn out nicely. I just designed 2 military coins. one for my commander and one for the squadron (we're a new sqd)... the coins turned out awesome! :unsure:

 

That's precisely why the PMS color system is the universal answer to keeping colors perfectly synchronous. Because everyone sees something slightly different (even more so with monitors). Pantone solves this dilemna by giving you a color-chip book that is the same as everyone else's color chip book for perfect matches. You'll notice that most (if not all) coin manufacturers will give you a PMS color reference for you to sign off on before producing a coin. This is probably as close to a perfect system as can be found anywhere in this day and age. It's a small investment for designers, but I couldn't do my job without it. :wub:

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gridlox

gridlox

Posted
Posted

While not a perfect match to the actual PMS colors, HERE is a pretty good reference to compare the colors you may want.

 

Notice there are 23 pages of colors! :laughing:

 

While exact PMS color matching is MAINLY used in the print industry, you can use the reference above to get a good idea of what colors you want.

 

My suggestion is to just pick a color range (Lt. Blue, Dk. Blue, Army Green, Lime Green, ... ) and not worry with the PMS #'s. (Unless the mint is totally striking out on seeing eye to eye with you on what color your wanting.)

 

:laughing::laughing:

 

D-man :laughing:

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ozymandiasism

+ozymandiasism

Posted
Posted

While not a perfect match to the actual PMS colors, HERE is a pretty good reference to compare the colors you may want.

 

Notice there are 23 pages of colors! :laughing:

 

While exact PMS color matching is MAINLY used in the print industry, you can use the reference above to get a good idea of what colors you want.

 

My suggestion is to just pick a color range (Lt. Blue, Dk. Blue, Army Green, Lime Green, ... ) and not worry with the PMS #'s. (Unless the mint is totally striking out on seeing eye to eye with you on what color your wanting.)

 

:laughing::laughing:

 

D-man :laughing:

 

 

Fantastic reference page. Thank you!

 

However, the color will look different on different monitors and resolutions...

 

But you are right. I used to do a lot of print production stuff so I am partial to getting the color as close to what I want :laughing:

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Landsharkz

+Landsharkz

Posted
Posted

The Pantone Color Bridge Coated is what you want. I strongly recommend this investment for anyone who is going to make more than a couple of coins. I got mine at buy.com for $77.

It's also important to use a newer, Pantone Color Bridge. We just updated our set of 3 with the current 3rd ed. (about $200.) and found that old ones had faded and discoloured compared to the new ones. We stored it in a cupboard out of direct light, but they don't last forever. There is a disclaimer on the reverse of the Formula Guide stating it should be replaced annually.

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crake

+crake

Posted
Posted

I should add that the mints always nail the color. There's a reason that there's a univeral color system (multiple actually). Illustrator also has color libraries that include PMS, but the colors on the screen aren't nearly as saturated as the real color. RGB is a very limited gamut.

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gridlox

gridlox

Posted
Posted

Wacom Tablet combined with the mouse.

 

I use the Tablet for ALL digitally manipulated stuff and for some vectored designing. But some things I have just have more control over using the mouse. ???

 

What's really hard is working at home with my tablet and then going to work at the sign shop where we have nothing but a mouse.

 

I guess that's why I can't totally give it up.

 

D-man :lol:

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