First Ammo Can Camo Paint Job

[+John in Valley Forge]

So I decided to paint some ammo cans, as the original Olive Drab is not really all that stealthy in the woods.

These cans will go in woods in eastern PA.

 

I cleaned this one up, wiped off the yellow stenciling with some nail polish remover and roughed p the while thing with some 15 grit sand paper.

I have a cans of Krylon camo Black, Brown and Khaki. Below are some photos of the first attempt.

 

 

 

I think I messed up. On the lower can, I sprayed the Khaki over the Olive, probably to heavily (I am more used to painting lawn furniture, where you need coverage).

 

So I tried repainting one side and the top heavier in the black. Then I placed some leaves I found in the corner of the garage and some twigs and hit it with little bursts of Brown and Khaki, from maybe 18"away. That is the top photo.

 

On the other side, I left the Khaki base, put on some leaves/twigs, and did spurts of Brown and Black. That is the lower photo. I actually like the look of that side better.

 

Am I doing this right? Am I supposed to do light base and move to dark, or dark base and move to light? Should I have left more of the Olive?

 

The fun thing about this little project is that if I dont like the results, I can respray the can in a few seconds and start over .

[+StarBrand]

Looks pretty good to me.

 

Sounds like you got the steps right - lots of differnt actual paint jobs can be done.

 

Be sure the designs "wrap" around the edges to help breakup the line that the edges create.

[+John in Valley Forge]

 

Sounds like you got the steps right - lots of differnt actual paint jobs can be done.

 

 

I was thinking that I would leave the one side dark to light and the other, light to dark and see how each looks on the ground in the daylight.

[knowschad]

The leaves and twigs are your "masking tape". Before you put them on, use whatever color you want them to be. Then lay them in place and use whatever paint you want for the background. If you want, say, tan leaves and an olive background, spray tan, put the leaves in place, then spray olive. Of course, in reality, you will probably be using more variations than that.

 

I don't use natural materials/shapes like that on mine. I tear pieces of thin cardboard and use those, at varying heights above the surface, for a more abstract combination of soft and hard edged, but jagged random lines. But it all depends on where you will be hiding it.

[+John in Valley Forge]

But it all depends on where you will be hiding it.

 

I guess that is the hard part, I don't know now where I'm going to put it. I suppose I should find the hiding space, then paint it to match.

 

This can will probably end up with a hundred coats of paint while I figure out what I'm doing.

[+John in Valley Forge]

 

Be sure the designs "wrap" around the edges to help breakup the line that the edges create.

 

I've heard similar things in other forums. What exactly does it mean?

Do I bend a leaf around the corner and sort of spray it from the corner angle?

[+Lil Devil]

This can will probably end up with a hundred coats of paint while I figure out what I'm doing.

I'm imagining finding what looks like a 50 cal ammo can, but when I open it it's only a 30 cal inside with 2 inches of paint all around

[knowschad]

Be sure the designs "wrap" around the edges to help breakup the line that the edges create.

 

I've heard similar things in other forums. What exactly does it mean?

Do I bend a leaf around the corner and sort of spray it from the corner angle?

Breaking up the outline is what camouflaging is really all about. Try to make it so that it doesn't look like a box. A spray of a dark color on one corner (all three sides of that corner), or a soft blending of another color around an edge... whatever you can do to avoid the appearance of straight lines, which are almost ever found in nature.

[+Max and 99]

That looks like a great paint job to me!

I need to try that sometime.

[+John in Valley Forge]

This can will probably end up with a hundred coats of paint while I figure out what I'm doing.

I'm imagining finding what looks like a 50 cal ammo can, but when I open it it's only a 30 cal inside with 2 inches of paint all around

 

This started as a .50 so who knows what it will end up like?

[+John in Valley Forge]

Be sure the designs "wrap" around the edges to help breakup the line that the edges create.

 

I've heard similar things in other forums. What exactly does it mean?

Do I bend a leaf around the corner and sort of spray it from the corner angle?

Breaking up the outline is what camouflaging is really all about. Try to make it so that it doesn't look like a box. A spray of a dark color on one corner (all three sides of that corner), or a soft blending of another color around an edge... whatever you can do to avoid the appearance of straight lines, which are almost ever found in nature.

 

Now I get it. I put the lid back on the hinges and closed it. The side of the lid was mostly khaki while the can was mostly brown. It makes it the opposite of camo, stands out like neon. I shot a splash of brown across the seam, just a little shot, and the seam disappeared.

[4wheelin_fool]

Paint the inside a bright color for a nice surprising contrast.

[+Dgwphotos]

The leaves and twigs are your "masking tape". Before you put them on, use whatever color you want them to be. Then lay them in place and use whatever paint you want for the background. If you want, say, tan leaves and an olive background, spray tan, put the leaves in place, then spray olive. Of course, in reality, you will probably be using more variations than that.

 

True. I paint my cans green, then I take a fern, which are a dime a dozen around here, place it on the can repeatedly and spray a coat of black over the fern on all of the sides to create a fern outline which blends in with the shadows under a fern. I've also done it on two lock n'locks. I also have a good scheme for shaded areas. I paint the container black, then very lightly spritz a bit of brown over the container to blend in with the slight amount of light found in shaded areas. I've only used that on two lock n' locks, so far.

Edited March 5, 2011 by Dgwphotos

[+Isonzo Karst]

If concealment is the purpose, there's a lot to be said for flat black, truly. At least in heavy woods. .

 

I generally remove the yellow markings and then do random diagonals with the same black paint over the closed can, free hand and rather fast and loose. These cans aren't terribly pretty, but they sure hide well. On 50 cal, I hit the bottom hard with paint, for rust proofing. They'll be upright once hidden. The 30 cal often end up on their sides, so I paint about the same all over.

 

I generally have 5-10 painted cans sitting around in the yard, aging in - ie, getting dirty, developing a proper surface skuz. That's good camo too.

 

I once found some cans out in the open on a forest floor of pine needles and leaf litter. They had been covered in rust colored primer, then oversprayed in brown and very light dusting of black. Using leaves as block out, like you've done. Amazingly hard to see, just sitting in a shallow depression in the open. I'm sure they looked terribly bright at home when first painted.

[+ngrrfan]

I once found some cans out in the open on a forest floor of pine needles and leaf litter. They had been covered in rust colored primer, then oversprayed in brown and very light dusting of black. Using leaves as block out, like you've done. Amazingly hard to see, just sitting in a shallow depression in the open. I'm sure they looked terribly bright at home when first painted.

I use flat black, brown primer, a couple of flat shades of green and grey. No patterns, just free form spraying making stripes or wavy lines.

 

Take a hint from the army and look at how they paint camo on their vehicles. No sharp or defining lines and splotches of colors overlapping each other.

[+NicknPapa]

This can will probably end up with a hundred coats of paint while I figure out what I'm doing.

 

At least it shouldn't rust

[+Jeepergeo]

With the Scouts, we made some CITO bag containers. We used dark green, light green, black, and brown cheap spray paint. We laid down a few splotches of the first color, hit the uncovered spots with the second color, then hit the color contact points with the remaining colors. The things came out pretty good. With the colors we used, we have a good woodland camo. Next, we're going to do an ephemeral stream look, and will use gray, black, and maybe some white for that scheme. Good camo on a large object is like art, but on something small, it was pretty easy.

Edited March 5, 2011 by Jeepergeo

[+simpjkee]

They look way better than my first attempt a few years ago:

 

 

I think my more recent paint jobs look a lot better. The first time I tried, I was such a n00b that I used gloss paint. They've survived living in the wild for over two years now though and they still look shiny as ever!

[+DragonsWest]

I've done a few of these. They seem to work out well.

 

 

 

 

[knowschad]

Here's a shot of one side of my most recent ammo box. I will be hiding it in an area that has a lot of limestone. The black stripes are to emulate cracks and shadows, the green, moss. But mostly, it is just to break up outlines.

 

[+bflentje]

Here's a shot of one side of my most recent ammo box. I will be hiding it in an area that has a lot of limestone. The black stripes are to emulate cracks and shadows, the green, moss. But mostly, it is just to break up outlines.

 

 

Thanks for the heads up on the new cache..

[+rdeg]

So I decided to paint some ammo cans, as the original Olive Drab is not really all that stealthy in the woods.

These cans will go in woods in eastern PA.

 

I cleaned this one up, wiped off the yellow stenciling with some nail polish remover and roughed p the while thing with some 15 grit sand paper.

I have a cans of Krylon camo Black, Brown and Khaki. Below are some photos of the first attempt.

 

 

 

I think I messed up. On the lower can, I sprayed the Khaki over the Olive, probably to heavily (I am more used to painting lawn furniture, where you need coverage).

 

So I tried repainting one side and the top heavier in the black. Then I placed some leaves I found in the corner of the garage and some twigs and hit it with little bursts of Brown and Khaki, from maybe 18"away. That is the top photo.

 

On the other side, I left the Khaki base, put on some leaves/twigs, and did spurts of Brown and Black. That is the lower photo. I actually like the look of that side better.

 

Am I doing this right? Am I supposed to do light base and move to dark, or dark base and move to light? Should I have left more of the Olive?

 

The fun thing about this little project is that if I dont like the results, I can respray the can in a few seconds and start over .

[+rdeg]

It looks great to me. I have not tried to paint any of my ammo cans but I may try after seeing yours. I think you did a good job! rdeg

[Mushtang]

They look way better than my first attempt a few years ago:

 

 

I think my more recent paint jobs look a lot better. The first time I tried, I was such a n00b that I used gloss paint. They've survived living in the wild for over two years now though and they still look shiny as ever!

Why are you showing us a picture of your counter tops? Or is it the receptacle we're supposed to be looking at? I'm confused.

 

Edit to say that it must be the receptacle that is the cache, and you painted it white to match the wall. The paint looks fine to me. Good job.

Edited March 7, 2011 by Mushtang

[+Dgwphotos]

My ammo can camo:

[+NeecesandNephews]

My ammo can camo:

 

Wow I know a spot where that would be almost invisible.

[+NeecesandNephews]

Here's a shot of one side of my most recent ammo box. I will be hiding it in an area that has a lot of limestone. The black stripes are to emulate cracks and shadows, the green, moss. But mostly, it is just to break up outlines.

 

 

KC I have the perfect spot for yours too!! Matter of fact, I haven't seen one here yet that I can't relate to a specific area locally. You guys are gonna make me actually hide one if you keep this up.

[+Dgwphotos]

My ammo can camo:

 

Wow I know a spot where that would be almost invisible.

 

I have nine ammo cans, two lock n' locks, and a peanut butter jar all camo'd using this method. This one is part of my night cache, and holds the black light. It sits behind a tree in front of my house (which is why it's a bit wet). The final is also an ammo can camo'd using this method, though I didn't use the camo paint when I did it (it was the first cache I camo'd using this method).

Edited March 9, 2011 by Dgwphotos

[+JesseVader08]

They look way better than my first attempt a few years ago:

I think my more recent paint jobs look a lot better. The first time I tried, I was such a n00b that I used gloss paint. They've survived living in the wild for over two years now though and they still look shiny as ever!

Why are you showing us a picture of your counter tops? Or is it the receptacle we're supposed to be looking at? I'm confused.Edit to say that it must be the receptacle that is the cache, and you painted it white to match the wall. The paint looks fine to me. Good job.

I just had to say that I laughed hard at this!

[+JB10-4]

Here is our first attempt at camo and painting. Finished them last week and placing today.

 

Two pics of ammo cans

 

Cant figure out how to make the pic show up on the forum post.

Thanks

[+shadowmib]

To the OP: I play airsoft and have used the same paint you are using and a similar technique to camo my replica gun.

I don't have a close up of the gun, but here I am holding it wearing two different BDU colors. I put a base of green down with some of the original black showing, then used a small leafy branch as a mask and dusted it with khaki.

 

 

 

Generally with camo painting, if you are using camo stencils (ie a paper with a leaf shaped hole in it) you start with a light or medium base coat (OD green or khaki) then work your way darker as you incease layers. That is how the old school US WOODLAND camo scheme works.

 

When using object masking (ie the actual leaf or cardboard "amoeba") you start dark, and move to your lightest color, also putting less of each sucessive color on it. What you want to do is break up the sillouhette of the shape. If its a box, you want it to look like something other than a box.

[knowschad]

 

 

That is an awesome photograph!!

[+EScout]

I like a couple flat colors, sometimes just olive and black.

[+roziecakes]

I think these are all great! And here I always paint my caches one flat color. I'm now officially boring. Time to change it up I think!

[+John in Valley Forge]

Where does everyone get these geocache label stencils?

[+Klondike Mike]

Nice job! Nice to see people put effort into their hides plus the cans seem to hold up better when painted.

 

I donated a cammoed ammo I did up for the 1st Cache in Alberta at a 5 year event back in Nov 2005. After 5 years it seems to be holding up well.

[+John in Valley Forge]

 

I just placed this one. It seems a bit exposed now, but once the vegetation grows back in I think it will do well.

[+ScallywagGrammies]

Where does everyone get these geocache label stencils?

 

I just ordered stencils from www.sissy-n-cr.com on Friday so I haven't received them yet. I've heard they're pretty good to deal with and have fast shipping. The price of both the stencil and the shipping were very reasonable. This was the only place I've found that has them.

Hope this helps!