Tools for Benchmark Hunting?

[This message was edited by GEO*Trailblazer 1 on July 25, 2003 at 05:07 PM.]

1.5k · July 26, 2003

All I carry in my 4x4 truck are a shovel, hammer, vise grips, screwdriver, machete, Kenson 165cft survey tape, K&E re-con compass, couple GPS units, chaining pins for a 'dead-man' in measuring distances, copy of description, pink flagging, old metal fences posts I scrounge up for setting a witness post if it needs one, some metal NGS signs.

I carry these things all the time, I moonlight (I am retired) for a Surveyor (use to be my boss). I search out section corners, plat and property corners, NGS, USGS control etc for his estimating jobs and weather he will take them on. Looking for GPS suitable sites etc.

1.1k · July 26, 2003

quote:
Originally posted by GEO*Trailblazer 1:
? Just say's made in the U.S.A.,Meets all Goverment standards.No Brand Name.

630-670 nM

NO make and model makes it difficult to understand how you "project angles to reference points,And Azimuths" especially being a "laser level" and all. So how do you do this?

Cheers, Kerry.

I never get lost everybody keeps telling me where to go

4.4k · July 26, 2003

From the Point,

I assume a Direction Based on True North,Observation of the North Star Polaris at Culmination,as nearly as I can determine.

I am not a rocket scientist yet.

This point is in a plumb line of the point and the Star.

Using the laser like a sight on a weapon,to align these points.A stake is marked at a forward point 30-100'away.

I assume this point as zero,and numbered in right ascention to 360 degrees.

I then roughly calculate using protractor,or compass.

You can also use the prism to project from a point to a point at angles.

Something I saw on NASA TV working with prisms and mirrors.

I can usually asuume the angles very easily.

N = 0 or 360

E = 90

S = 180

W = 270

Like I said I only play around with it.

If I could afford a Transit or a total station I could really be accurate.....ehhhh

WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS *GEOTRYAGAIN*

**1803-2003** "LOUSIANA PURCHASE"

"LEWIS AND CLARK EXPADITION"

Initial Points Page

1.4k · July 28, 2003

Re: metal detector. Radio Shack seems to have one at the same price. (Cat # 63-3005 $39.99) The nice thing about RS is if you don't like it you have 30 days to return it. And no S/H price.

July 28, 2003

quote:
some metal NGS signs.

Elcomino,

How and where do you acquire NGS signs? I would like to reset a couple posts and replace a couple metal signs in our area.

EMike

"It's what you learn after you know it all, that counts."

July 28, 2003

Re: metal detector. Radio Shack seems to have one at the same price. (Cat # 63-3005 $39.99)

The nice thing about RS is if you don't like it you have 30 days to return it. And no S/H price.

~~~~~~~~~~~

Don't Waste your money, It is a childs detecor and has NO depth or discrimunation.

Trash-out, EVERYtime

2.7k · July 28, 2003

I think a 'childs detector' is about what one needs for benchmark hunting.

I'm no expert on discriminator features, but is there a discriminator setting for brass/bronze that would reject a lot of other metals?

Some disks aren't brass or bronze - there's aluminum ones and some other types too. Sometimes the description says which type of metal, and sometimes it doesn't.

As far as the depth feature is concerned, we're not going to want to look for anything below 2 or 3 inches for benchmark hunting. An inexpensive metal detector won't reach farther than that anyway, so it's by default a depth discriminator.

4.4k · July 28, 2003

Yes there is a discriminator on mine at least. Part of learnig how to..is the Noise that each type of metal emitt,you start by placing a Nickel,pop top,gold coin(if you have it) and several other items of metal in diffrent forms.

You then learn the sound of each one.As well as entensity,that gives you the approx. size,Analog meter.

But....................in the setting for the Caps, brass,Alum ect, it is one setting,and I really now HATE aluminum cans,they are the same setting as brass disc.And I find alot of them around benchmarks,especially the ones near roads.

So if you think it will help you find them faster it wont,you spend alot of time on cans........................But its still fun,I enjoy it who knows where that next Gold Coin or Diamond ring got lost.I have found alot of interesting things around the older BM too.

Always gain LANDOWNER Permission when detecting on private property,alot of these marks are now that way.

I have had land owners go with me to find the points too..makes a good way to meet your neighbors.

WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS *GEOTRYAGAIN*

**1803-2003** "LOUSIANA PURCHASE"

"LEWIS AND CLARK EXPADITION"

Initial Points Page

http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.aspx?ID=72037

July 28, 2003

quote:
Originally posted by GEO*Trailblazer 1:
From the Point,

I assume a Direction Based on True North,Observation of the North Star Polaris at Culmination,as nearly as I can determine.

I am not a rocket scientist yet.

This point is in a plumb line of the point and the Star.

Using the laser like a sight on a weapon,to align these points.A stake is marked at a forward point 30-100'away.

I assume this point as zero,and numbered in right ascention to 360 degrees.

I then roughly calculate using protractor,or compass.

You can also use the prism to project from a point to a point at angles.

Something I saw on NASA TV working with prisms and mirrors.

I can usually asuume the angles very easily.

N = 0 or 360

E = 90

S = 180

W = 270

Like I said I only play around with it.

If I could afford a Transit or a total station I could really be accurate.....ehhhh

Sounds like a lot of extra work, especially if you don't want to get out and look for Polaris, or if it's cloudy. You can use your GPSr for an accurate location of true north from any point. Just take an east-west reading of the GPSr at your point, then move as many feet away as you want and establish the same east-west coordinate.

Now my Garmin III+ does all that work for me, gives a true bearing to the point so I can be accurate to one degree for all 360 degrees. In fact used the process to hide a cache and those who have found the cache have been surprised by another use of a GPSr.

Check out GCG6QP Clear Creek Reservoir at

1950 Surveyor

4.4k · July 28, 2003

Neat,I will have to try it out when I am in Colorado.

I am just playing with these ideas that I have I really don't locate them that way just a check on a few...

I really don't even need the GPSr,but like you say it makes things so much easier.

As a part of a upcoming class I wanted to show several different methods of determining angles.

I have a friend who has a Transit.

I only want to show that you can get fairly easy angles with little work.

I guess my talent ,this comes from a good Dad,who taught me from youth how to keep your bearings in all matters,and your mind clear.And try to be aware of all of your surroundings.

Make reference marks to local objects,carry waterproof matches,water,a pocket knife..and a small first aide kit.Which then became 'ALWAYS BE PREPARED" years to "FOLLOW ME" years to the present GEORIENTEER "LETS ROLL" years..

It still amazes me that.................

when you think you know it allllllllll.........

you learn something new...Happy Geotrails

WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS *GEOTRYAGAIN*

**1803-2003** "LOUSIANA PURCHASE"

"LEWIS AND CLARK EXPADITION"

Initial Points Page

1.3k · July 28, 2003

quote:
Originally posted by Black Dog Trackers:
I think a 'childs detector' is about what one needs for benchmark hunting.

For the most part, I agree with this statement; but there are occasions when a 'real' detector can come in handy (I use a White Classic II). My friend has a VERY old one with no auto tuning and a broken discrimination. I often can find targets that his detector will not.

quote:
Originally posted by Black Dog Trackers:
I'm no expert on discriminator features, but is there a discriminator setting for brass/bronze that would reject a lot of other metals?

Yes. Brass is on the high end, and VERY difficult to tune out. Also, a brass benchmark is a HUGE target, relatively speaking, when compared to coins, rings, etc. I can turn my discrimination all the way up, and my sensitivity all the way down and still get a 'hit' on a brass disk. Doing this eliminates finding things I'm not really looking for.

quote:
Originally posted by Black Dog Trackers:
As far as the depth feature is concerned, we're not going to want to look for anything below 2 or 3 inches for benchmark hunting. An inexpensive metal detector won't reach farther than that anyway, so it's by default a depth discriminator.

Once again, for the most part I agree, but I have a mark I'm planning for that is supposed to be 18" underground. My maximum depth to date is 14" (not a benchmark), so I'm curious to see what happens when I try it. It's a tri-station in private woods, so I'm working on securing permission, and then finding the RMs so I should know right where I want to dig. Hopefully I can get a hit with me detector before I turn the first shovel of dirt. Of course, to achieve this kind of depth, I won't be able to severely limit the sensitivity as mentioned above.

Greg

N 39 54.705'

W 77 33.137'

August 1, 2003

I just received my Metered Detector (Metal Detector) from American Science & Surplus < WWW.SCIPLUS.COM >

I took it out into the yard and soon found a 4 X 3/8 inch bolt (about 2 inches down in dirt), 2 small nails, a cultivator tine (1.5 inch down), a twisted wire splice, ear-ring parts and even a tiny piece of tinfoil (which was near surface). The sensitivity seems fine for a cheap device. I have not looked for any buried benchmarks yet but am satisfied with the detector which cost $47.90 with shipping. Now I need to try to remember which NOT FOUND benchmarks in my list might be worth another visit. My treasures thus far:

Thanks Warm Fuzzies - Fuzzy for the lead on this.

22k · August 1, 2003

Happycycler, do you think you can test its limits for us? Maybe take something like a metal lid from a pickle jar and bury it, oh say, 6 inches deep?

I think what you have there would be great for some of those bridge backwalls that get covered with a couple inches of sand, gravel and grass.

4.4k · August 1, 2003

No matter the test you are gonna find alot of things you do not want to.I have recovered over 40 BM's with the detector.

In all conditions.

Metal detectors are about like GPSr's or Radio's or car's.There is a model for you.

I have also found things that have made it worth all the trips out??????

In the best conditions, the general Head for a detector goes 6"-10",if you buy a bigger diameter one you can get to about 12"-14",I have not ever found those that say 12"-14" with detector,They are now about 40 + years with the topsoil covering,It makes them 4"to 6" deeper,you have to still find where and dig down a ways to get it to go off.So...........but generally if I would not have had a detector I would not have found the several that were 4"-10" deep.

Headphones are a must around traffic areas,the trucks and cars drown out the signal.

Alum. and Brass are the same category but put off a slightly diffrent tone,all metals have their own signature(Sound)or tone,this is something that you just have to learn ...It's called FIELD EXPERIENCE.

WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS *GEOTRYAGAIN*

**1803-2003** "LOUSIANA PURCHASE"

"LEWIS AND CLARK EXPADITION"

Initial Points Page

22k · August 1, 2003

Sorry, I was just curious about the range on this particular model.

4.4k · August 1, 2003

Oh,Sorry.

I thought you might be looking for general info.

Got mine at Radio Shack.

WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS *GEOTRYAGAIN*

**1803-2003** "LOUSIANA PURCHASE"

"LEWIS AND CLARK EXPADITION"

Initial Points Page

http://www.doi.gov/news/front_current.html

August 30, 2003

Just wanted to thank everyone who responded to this thread for all the ideas. Some of these I can actually carry around with me

4.4k · August 30, 2003

Your welcome

WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS *GEOTRYAGAIN*

TAKE PRIDE IN AMERICA

**1803-2003** "LOUSIANA PURCHASE"

"LEWIS AND CLARK EXPADITION"