How To: Recycle used cardboard containers into WP GCC

August 24, 2009

After a month of design and testing I have figured out a way to RECYCLE used cardboard containers into water resistant geocache containers suitable for most areas.

By cardboard containers I am refering to those containers of various sizes such as Pringles cans, Lipton powdered ice tea cans, dishwasher tabs cans, as well as a few other cardboad cans that household food & cleaning products come in.

Pringles & Lipton cans have a foil lining in them, the others have a wax coated paper lining. When testing I have found that all of these cans when filled with water will hold the water for about 1 to 2 hours before they start leaking. If you semi-submerge the cans in a pool of water, so that the water is trying to get IN rather than OUT like the previous test, then water leakage INTO the can begins in as little as 30 min.

So I tried a few things & ran the same tests again. After many hours of trial & error, this is what I found that actually works to be USABLE as a geocache container in areas that the container could be pounded with heavy rains or days of very wet weather. After the following steps, I tested on no less then 10 cardboard cans, all of various sizes with success. When filled with water, they hold water for about 48 hours before any notiable signs of water leakage begins. When put into a pool of water in the sink, with the water trying to get INTO the container, it succesfully held the water out for over 72 hours. In all cases, the container was NOT fully submerged as the LID is NOT water proof for submerging. I will explain this in detail later.

Here are the steps...

1. Clean the inside & outside of the can. Make sure no "oils" for the food product or whatever other product was in the canister. Make sure you let the can fully dry out.

2. Using vinyl tape. Otherwise known as common electrical tape cover the entire outside of the can. So that each turn overlaps the previous turn. Give the can at least 2 layers. Make sure that their are NO wrinkels or BUBBLES in your wrapping. Make sure the ENTIRE double layer wrapping is ONE single length piece of vinyl tape. Do not cut. This isn't an easy task and can take some patience. Do not cover the metal bottom.

This tape helps provide a layer of strength as well as a layer of water resistance.

3. Do the same with as step 2 with a high quality duct tape. This can be of any colour or style, including camo duct tape if you choose. Again, make sure you use one single length of tape & that the entire can is covered. Do not cover the metal bottom. Make sure their are NO bubbles or wrinkles in your duct tape wrapping. This layer of tape provides alot of strength as well as another layer of water resistance.

4. Now we are going to COAT the ouside & inside of the can with a polyurethane clear coat spray paint. Be carefull as to which product you purchase. Some are made ONLY to coat WOOD products. Such as a brand from "Minwax". The kind of polyurethane clear coat you want to get, is the kind that will work to cover plastics, metal, or painted items. Using a clear coat will maintain the colour of your duct tape. If you don't want to use the colour of your duct tape, then all you need is an oil based polyurethane paint (GLOSSY) using the colour of your choice. I have tested several brands. They all seem about the same. I have found you need NO LESS than at least 4 coats of clear coat &/or paint. (Then again the number of coats needed is also dependant on the brand your using) Using the clear coat/paint. Spray the metal bottom on the outside as well the same number of coats. This will help prevent rusting & add to the life of your can. It will still eventually rust, but will triple the life. The paint/clear coat will soak into the duct tape, helping the duct tape to remain where it is as well as provide even more resistance to water.

Give the can at least 36 hours to dry AFTER applying the LAST coat of clear coat/paint before you start using it as your geocache container.

The container for the most part is very water resistant. However there is a caveat to this design that I have yet to resolve. Because of the way the "Snap on" lids work, the lids will only prevent the container from getting water inside them as long as the container is right side up. If it is laid on its side or gets inverted, water could still get in around the lid.

I would say the average cost per can of using the tape & paint. About $3 per can as the can of paint & rolls of tape will obviously do quite a few cans. The cost of the cans are FREE because you obtained the cans because you wanted the product inside them.

I am sure there are some tweaks that could make this "Mod" even better. Such as using a more expensive Silicon based clear coat/paint, or even an epoxy based clear coat/paint. Epoxy based paint though is about $30 a gallon & Silicon paint is about $25 a gallon.

In my next HOW TO: I will show you how to MAKE YOUR OWN BISON TUBES!

TGC

8.3k · August 24, 2009

Send me one and come October I'll set it out here on the wet side of Washington. I would be willing to bet it will be a lump of mush come April.

Jim

August 24, 2009

Send me one and come October I'll set it out here on the wet side of Washington. I would be willing to bet it will be a lump of mush come April.

Jim

I wouldn't doubt it. Washington is wetter than the marshlands of southeast texas! I don't think any container that isn't made to be 100% waterproof could withstand washington!

TGC

6.7k · August 24, 2009

So, what's the punchline supposed to be?

9.3k · August 24, 2009

I think this is a vast 'gubment' conspiracy to test how dumb the American population has become.

They've hacked into the shipping computers for Pringles, and are tracking sales.

TGC is obviously an NSA operative, working deep undercover, to promote this plan.

When they see a significant increase in Pringles sales, they'll know they won.

At long last, the populace will be dumb enough to believe everything handed to them by our leaders.

It's as if an occult hand has reached down from the heavens, stirring our brains like so much pudding...

4.8k · August 24, 2009

It would be much easier to coat the container with wax and then heat it to about 300 degrees so the wax permeates the fibers of the container. Then a quick wax seal on the bottom (inside).

But making it into a geocache designed to withstand the elements? I would rather use a margarine tub.

August 24, 2009

It would be much easier to coat the container with wax and then heat it to about 300 degrees so the wax permeates the fibers of the container. Then a quick wax seal on the bottom (inside).

But making it into a geocache designed to withstand the elements? I would rather use a margarine tub.

Margarine/butter tubs, mayo/mircle whip bottles, peanut butter bottles, coffee cans (plastic or metal), Jelly/Jam plastic jars, the list goes on & on & on. All of which need little to NO additional "Modifications" to become an excellant geocache container. Again depending on the location that you wish to put your geocache container. None of these would work at 50' under water, or at the North/South Pole, or on top of Mount Everest.

Pringles & Lipton Powdered ice tea containers as well as most if not all FOOD canisters made of cardboard HAVE been impregnated with a wax at high pressures & temperatures. (Seen it in "How It's Made" episode on the "Discovery" channel, they showed making the "store brand" version of pringles containers).

Yet, like I said in my previous starting post. When tested, the canisters (Pringles, Liptons etc...) all held water out of the container for only a short period of time. Held the water in the container longer then keeping it out. But either way was LESS than 24 hours. My method more then TRIPLES the time the canisters will handle water.

I do NOT claim that this method, or using of these types of MODIFIED containers are perfect for EVERY geocaching situation. They are NOT. However, they are still a GOOD container for SOME geocache locations. If you live in swamp lands of the South, or in the wet areas of Washington, then no these won't be good cache containers. If you live in Texas or AZ, or NM or anywhere else that you get less than 24" of percipitation a year. (Places that when it rains it never or very rarely rains more than 2-3" in a day) then these container modifications will hold up JUST fine.

I have also done the following test with these modified containers.

I water my yard 3 times week with a sprinkler system. I use a rain gauge to measure how much water I have watered the yard with. I have put these containers under the sprinkler system for 2 weeks. Each time the yard is watered, I give it a good soaking, by watering my yard an average of 2-3" equivalant rain fall. So far they are doing just fine with no leakage or moisture inside what so ever. I will admit though that in this test, the containers have a good chance to have their "Exteriors" dry out fully before the next "Rain" fall.

RECYCLING these containers is much better then throwing them into our land fills. EVEN if all you do is store your stuff from around the house. I have about 20 pringles containers full of pennies, nickels & dimes that I have collected from our families pockets over the years. Some day I will get around to rolling them up and taking them to the bank. Although they make great paper weights as well as good door stoppers too!

I just beleive that we all should recycle as much as possible. Currently in our area of Dallas, Pringles/Lipton type canisters are not yet allowed in our recycle bins. Even though the canisters are marked as being recyclable. There are lots of household containers that can easily be used for geocaches WITH little to NO modifications as well as some that with some modifications can be used as well. If you don't want to be green & make modifications then don't. No one is holding a gun to your head to be "Green". At least not YET! LOL

TGC

8.3k · August 24, 2009

Margarine/butter tubs, mayo/mircle whip bottles, peanut butter bottles, coffee cans (plastic or metal), Jelly/Jam plastic jars, the list goes on & on & on. All of which need little to NO additional "Modifications" to become an excellant geocache container. Again depending on the location that you wish to put your geocache container. None of these would work at 50' under water, or at the North/South Pole, or on top of Mount Everest.

None of which will work in the Pacific northwest during the months from September to June. All leak. All end up wet and moldy inside. Ammo cans or Lock'n'Locks, there is no other choice.

Jim

August 24, 2009

None of which will work in the Pacific northwest during the months from September to June. All leak. All end up wet and moldy inside. Ammo cans or Lock'n'Locks, there is no other choice.

Jim

Agreed, your part of the world definately needs true waterproof containers.

The part of the country I am in we need containers that are more resistant to heat & UV exposure than anything. I have seen normal plasic lock'n'locks deteriote after a year of being exposed to direct sunlight. Although Pelican & Otter box's seem to use a better quality plastic that has better UV protection built in. Probably one of the big reasons why they are so damed expensive!

How are "Bison" tubes doing up there as geocaches? Are they working out well?

I will soon have a "How To" on how to make your own bison tubes. Although they won't be as pretty! LOL

TGC

8.3k · August 24, 2009

How are "Bison" tubes doing up there as geocaches? Are they working out well?

As long as they have an intact o-ring they will stay dry. Film cans are iffy, some work, some don't but most leak after a while. Match locks with a good seal last pretty well. Blinkies do okay if they are sheltered from the rain. We won't even mention key locks .

All my L'n'L's are painted so that should help. You, know I got to give the boys with the bang some practice .

Jim

Edited August 24, 2009 by jholly

August 24, 2009

As long as they have an intact o-ring they will stay dry. Film cans are iffy, some work, some don't but most leak after a while. Match locks with a good seal last pretty well. Blinkies do okay if they are sheltered from the rain. We won't even mention key locks .

All my L'n'L's are painted so that should help. You, know I got to give the boys with the bang some practice .

Jim

I can't even remember where I saw it. But one time I saw a waterproof key lock hider. It was meant to hide your keys in it, then submerse it into I guess your "water" feature that you have around your house. It looked like an underwater reptile of some sort. Wish I could find it. I think it would make for a great cache in some areas. It claimed to be completely waterproof. That was about a year or two ago.

I have seen good match locks and bad match locks. I think alot is dependant on the o-ring seal to be honest.

Painting anything will almost always help prevent UV damage as well as provide some additional water protection. At least from any good quality paint. Most all good quality paint has been enhanced to have some UV protection. At least all of the OUTDOOR paint.

Film cans are used alot down here in Texas. They work fine for a while, but the heat &/or UV gets to them eventually and they start getting brittle and cracking. I have tons of them around my home, but won't use any as a GC. Mainly cause they are all in use in my garage holding nuts, bolts, screws etc! lol

IMHO though, no container will last forever in our enviroment without some maintnance along the way. Even ammo cans need to be repainted & have their rubber seals replaced sometimes.

TGC

6.7k · August 24, 2009

I've got a dollar that says if you hide one of those Pringles cans it will fail in under 6 weeks.

I've got another dollar that says if I hid one up here TWU would throw heavy objects at me in under six days.

1.1k · August 24, 2009

I've found that the main fail-point in most disposable containers is the lid. The plastic when left out in the elements gets brittle and cracks within a relatively short time. Margarine and nut can lids are almost identical if memory serves.

18.9k · August 24, 2009

But doesn't the lid problem sort of comprimise anything else you do to it???

3.8k · August 24, 2009

With all that tape and varnish and such are you really offsetting the impact?

I wonder if manufacturing that much plastic tape, varnish with its gases as such really is less of an impact than throwing away the can which one would imagine breaks down in a relatively short time in today's managed landfills.

I don't have a clue of course, I am just thinking out loud.

4.7k · August 24, 2009

maybe you could fashion a container ENTIRELY of tape and paint and run a comparison.

14k · August 24, 2009

As long as they have an intact o-ring they will stay dry. Film cans are iffy, some work, some don't but most leak after a while. Match locks with a good seal last pretty well. Blinkies do okay if they are sheltered from the rain. We won't even mention key locks .

All my L'n'L's are painted so that should help. You, know I got to give the boys with the bang some practice .

Jim

I can't even remember where I saw it. But one time I saw a waterproof key lock hider. It was meant to hide your keys in it, then submerse it into I guess your "water" feature that you have around your house. It looked like an underwater reptile of some sort. Wish I could find it. I think it would make for a great cache in some areas. It claimed to be completely waterproof. That was about a year or two ago.

TGC

At first I wondered why anyone would want to hide a key underwater but then I did a quick google search for waterproof key hider and it actually makes sense. On a diving forum, someone was looking for one because it's not just the key they're trying to protect, but the remote control for the door locks as well. One of the examples that I found is something that I have sitting on my desk. It's a small dry bag used for storing a wallet. One of these days I'm going to use it for a cache.

9.2k · August 24, 2009

Congrats on reducing your cache hider carbon footprint down to a very tiny cat's paw.

I look forward to hunting down these cache containers in my SUV with the air conditioning running at full blast. It's Texas in August, after all.

August 24, 2009

With all that tape and varnish and such are you really offsetting the impact?

I wonder if manufacturing that much plastic tape, varnish with its gases as such really is less of an impact than throwing away the can which one would imagine breaks down in a relatively short time in today's managed landfills.

I don't have a clue of course, I am just thinking out loud.

You make a very valid point,give me a lock n lock or an ammo can anyday. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for recycling but it seems a lot of extra voilatile components have been added to the container which aren't so very compostable.

4.8k · August 24, 2009

With all that tape and varnish and such are you really offsetting the impact?

I wonder if manufacturing that much plastic tape, varnish with its gases as such really is less of an impact than throwing away the can which one would imagine breaks down in a relatively short time in today's managed landfills.

I don't have a clue of course, I am just thinking out loud.

You make a very valid point,give me a lock n lock or an ammo can anyday. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for recycling but it seems a lot of extra voilatile components have been added to the container which aren't so very compostable.

Let us not forget that Ammo Cans ARE recycled. They aren't in landfills and they come to us used. And the main byproduct of an ammo can is oidized iron.

I would suspect that a true enviromentalist would much rather see cardboard decomposing into soil over adding vinyl, nylon, chemical adhesives, and varnish and then adding that to the environment.

3.3k · August 24, 2009

I think the cost and time factors would be a deal breaker for me. I bought 30 cal ammo cans for $3 each and gave them a little paint job. They seem to be pretty durable and waterproof even on the wetside of Washington.

August 24, 2009

I'd be too concerned about food smells to want to hide a Pringles can or anything similar. Up here, if it smells tasty, you can bet that a bear will try to eat it eventually, even in our biggest city. That's not something you'll find on any carbon calculator, but it is an environmental impact. I won't put anything that ever held food out in the woods. As we say in Alaska, a fed bear is a dead bear.

That said, it may work for certain places with appropriate climates and wildlife.

1.5k · August 25, 2009

Wouldn't it be easier, and cheaper, to go to your local dollar store, buy a water container with a screw on lid, and use that?

Edited August 25, 2009 by GrateBear

1.1k · August 25, 2009

I appreciate this endeavor on the "lets see if it can be done" aspect of things.

For your next project see if you can break-proof a large glass jar.

August 25, 2009

I'd be too concerned about food smells to want to hide a Pringles can or anything similar. Up here, if it smells tasty, you can bet that a bear will try to eat it eventually, even in our biggest city. That's not something you'll find on any carbon calculator, but it is an environmental impact. I won't put anything that ever held food out in the woods. As we say in Alaska, a fed bear is a dead bear.

That said, it may work for certain places with appropriate climates and wildlife.

By all means... I wouldn't even begin to recomend placing ANY previous food type container of ANY type in locations that contain the wildlife of Alaska. I have seen what bears can do to cars that people have stored food in. Not a pretty site.

To everyone....

All I was trying to do is provide ONE alternative means to recycling a household product. If you don't believe it will work in your area, or in places that you wish to hide a cache, then by all means feel free to find some other container that you will be happy using.

My original post was never meant to say that EVERYONE should you use these type of containers, or that these modifications would work in every situation. Nor did I even intend to imply that this method was the GREENEST and MOST enviromental way of reducing ones carbon footprint.

Example... Flourescent lights are fantastic, they reduce electrical consumption in most cases (not all) by more than 50%. YET the DRAWBACK to flourescent lighting (at least for use in the home) is that flourescent lighting contains MERCURY & we are NOT recycling flourescent lights made to be used in our homes. Now many business's such as Walmart, Target, Sams, Cosco, & other major corporations ARE recycling flourecents.... but we are still putting more MERCURY into our envirment. So in one way flourescents are helping in another way they are hurting.

I am just providing ONE alternative solution for those who wish to use this method. I also include cans that weren't food containers either. Dishwasher "Tabs" come in those cans as well, So do many other NON-food products as well.

To those who mentioned the "lid" factor:

I agree. Currently I don't have a solution for the lids. I am currently working on a solution for the lids. To that I will say this. What causes ANY plastic lid from ANY container to start cracking is a combination of direct sunlight (UV) as well as daily temperature swings. Some plastic products last longer than others, this has to do with the quality of plastic being used as well as that plastics resistance to UV light as well as temperature swings. I am working on a solution though. I might not find one, then again I might. Even Pelican/Otter boxes will eventually fail in extreme weather or after time.

In regards to Ammo cans. I love them. I give the DOD big kudos for doing a very good job recycling these items. Although I have YET to see a MICRO ammo can. Do they even exist? The cardboard cans that can be modified come in ranges that would be considered micro, to as big as some ammo cans.

I will close in saying this.... which I have said before. If you don't think this solution will work for you in your part of the world, or in the ways you like to hide caches, then by all means don't. You won't hurt my feelings. If you think it might work for you in your part of the world for a paticular hide your thinking about, then give it a try. I look at it like this. It's like a vehicle. (A container on 4 wheels with a motor). Some of us want hybrids (Cars or SUV's), some of us want gas guzzling hummers, Some of us want sports cars & some of us love our bikes. (human powered, or motorized)

TGC

August 25, 2009

For your next project see if you can break-proof a large glass jar.

Hmmm I did win a contest in my college physics class once for making a container that would keep an egg from breaking after a 12 story fall. The egg survived, but the container didn't.

As far as break-proof. Well I have to go along the lines of NOTHING is break proof. Just like NOTHING is really truly techically water proof. You get enough water pressure and anything will leak water eventually.

Even an Ammo can will succomb to my 15lb sledge hammer.

TGC

August 25, 2009

You will never get the smell out. Doesn't take an Alaskan bear to find and destroy these. Texas varmints like coons and possums and armadillos (don't misspell that one) will detect the smell and tear them to shreds.

The vinyl tape will decompose in the sunlight.

The adhesive on the duct tape will dry out in nothing flat in TX, and everything on top of it will peel off. Hint: HVAC workers do NOT use duct tape on ducts, not for permanent installation.

Edward

9.3k · August 25, 2009

When I first saw this, I was sure it was tounge in cheek.

Please excuse the earlier reply.

Congrats on reducing your cache hider carbon footprint down to a very tiny cat's paw.

I would think that tossing a tube covered with half a roll of electrical tape and half a roll of duct tape, saturated with toxins, into the wild wouldn't really qualify as reducing ones carbon footprint. I'd think that popping off the bottom, dropping it into an appropriate metal recycling bin, then tossing the cardboard tube and plastic lid into their respective bins, would be a much greener way to go. Heck, once the bottoms & tops are dealt with, you could toss the tube into your mulch bin and really reduce your footprint.

(not that I'm an expert on all things green...)

With the added expenditure of all the tape and paint, I don't even think this work work as a cost cutting measure. :mad:

Seems like a whole lotta work to turn a crappy container into a slightly less crappy container.

1.9k · August 25, 2009

After a month of design and testing I have figured out a way to RECYCLE used cardboard containers into water resistant geocache containers suitable for most areas.

By cardboard containers I am refering to those containers of various sizes such as Pringles cans, Lipton powdered ice tea cans, dishwasher tabs cans, as well as a few other cardboad cans that household food & cleaning products come in.

Pringles & Lipton cans have a foil lining in them, the others have a wax coated paper lining. When testing I have found that all of these cans when filled with water will hold the water for about 1 to 2 hours before they start leaking. If you semi-submerge the cans in a pool of water, so that the water is trying to get IN rather than OUT like the previous test, then water leakage INTO the can begins in as little as 30 min.

So I tried a few things & ran the same tests again. After many hours of trial & error, this is what I found that actually works to be USABLE as a geocache container in areas that the container could be pounded with heavy rains or days of very wet weather. After the following steps, I tested on no less then 10 cardboard cans, all of various sizes with success. When filled with water, they hold water for about 48 hours before any notiable signs of water leakage begins. When put into a pool of water in the sink, with the water trying to get INTO the container, it succesfully held the water out for over 72 hours. In all cases, the container was NOT fully submerged as the LID is NOT water proof for submerging. I will explain this in detail later.

Here are the steps...

1. Clean the inside & outside of the can. Make sure no "oils" for the food product or whatever other product was in the canister. Make sure you let the can fully dry out.

2. Using vinyl tape. Otherwise known as common electrical tape cover the entire outside of the can. So that each turn overlaps the previous turn. Give the can at least 2 layers. Make sure that their are NO wrinkels or BUBBLES in your wrapping. Make sure the ENTIRE double layer wrapping is ONE single length piece of vinyl tape. Do not cut. This isn't an easy task and can take some patience. Do not cover the metal bottom.

This tape helps provide a layer of strength as well as a layer of water resistance.

3. Do the same with as step 2 with a high quality duct tape. This can be of any colour or style, including camo duct tape if you choose. Again, make sure you use one single length of tape & that the entire can is covered. Do not cover the metal bottom. Make sure their are NO bubbles or wrinkles in your duct tape wrapping. This layer of tape provides alot of strength as well as another layer of water resistance.

4. Now we are going to COAT the ouside & inside of the can with a polyurethane clear coat spray paint. Be carefull as to which product you purchase. Some are made ONLY to coat WOOD products. Such as a brand from "Minwax". The kind of polyurethane clear coat you want to get, is the kind that will work to cover plastics, metal, or painted items. Using a clear coat will maintain the colour of your duct tape. If you don't want to use the colour of your duct tape, then all you need is an oil based polyurethane paint (GLOSSY) using the colour of your choice. I have tested several brands. They all seem about the same. I have found you need NO LESS than at least 4 coats of clear coat &/or paint. (Then again the number of coats needed is also dependant on the brand your using) Using the clear coat/paint. Spray the metal bottom on the outside as well the same number of coats. This will help prevent rusting & add to the life of your can. It will still eventually rust, but will triple the life. The paint/clear coat will soak into the duct tape, helping the duct tape to remain where it is as well as provide even more resistance to water.

Give the can at least 36 hours to dry AFTER applying the LAST coat of clear coat/paint before you start using it as your geocache container.

The container for the most part is very water resistant. However there is a caveat to this design that I have yet to resolve. Because of the way the "Snap on" lids work, the lids will only prevent the container from getting water inside them as long as the container is right side up. If it is laid on its side or gets inverted, water could still get in around the lid.

I would say the average cost per can of using the tape & paint. About $3 per can as the can of paint & rolls of tape will obviously do quite a few cans. The cost of the cans are FREE because you obtained the cans because you wanted the product inside them.

I am sure there are some tweaks that could make this "Mod" even better. Such as using a more expensive Silicon based clear coat/paint, or even an epoxy based clear coat/paint. Epoxy based paint though is about $30 a gallon & Silicon paint is about $25 a gallon.

In my next HOW TO: I will show you how to MAKE YOUR OWN BISON TUBES!

TGC

Downside: the weak link as with the folgers coffee cans is the plastic lids. they'll crack after a few months regardless of orientation.

6.7k · August 25, 2009

TGC, it isn't that I don't think that it won't work in my area. I don't think it will work in your area either. These containers are designed to fail quickly when exposed to the environment. Adding tape and varnish will slow that degradation but not by much. All that aside it is way too much work and material invested in an alternative to containers that are proven to work and cheap to boot.

And I, to, initially thought you were less than serious. Now I'm not sure. Is there a punchline?

4.2k · August 25, 2009

Anybody that has had luck getting the food smell out (or significantly reduced) has mentioned soaking the container in bleach. I don't see a chip can surviving that stage of the process.

1.1k · August 25, 2009

For your next project see if you can break-proof a large glass jar.

Hmmm I did win a contest in my college physics class once for making a container that would keep an egg from breaking after a 12 story fall. The egg survived, but the container didn't.

As far as break-proof. Well I have to go along the lines of NOTHING is break proof. Just like NOTHING is really truly techically water proof. You get enough water pressure and anything will leak water eventually.

Even an Ammo can will succomb to my 15lb sledge hammer.

TGC

I think you should read "break proof" the same way you read "water proof" on a watch.... "will not break under standard conditions". I didn't think I had to explain that I wanted a glass jar to survive a nuclear explosion.

7.9k · August 26, 2009

While I certainly applaud the OPs effort to find new things to do with what most of us would simply discard (in a proper manner, of course), I can't see how the extra effort needed to make the previously sub-standard containers suitable is more than an experiment designed to make a point, rather than to provide any actual advantage to Geocachers in general.

What few Pringles containers might be turned into Geocaches (for a time) would certainly be totally insignificant in relation to the number of Pringles containers discarded in the U.S. in even one month.

If I was desperate for a container, and all I had was a Pringles can...then maybe.

How To: Recycle used cardboard containers into WP GCC

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