+Mr. Snazz Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 I want to spray paint a few ammo boxes for caches that I'll be placing, and was curious if any of you have tips/suggestions. Specifically, type of paint to use (brand name, etc), pre-paint prep, and anything else that you know on the subject Quote Link to comment
+Criminal Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 I use Krylon Camouflage, non-reflective, ultra flat. There is an assortment of browns and greens as well as black. Ammo cans are usually good to go as is unless there's some rust. Works best on ammo cans that should be banned... Quote Link to comment
+Mr. Snazz Posted January 20, 2003 Author Share Posted January 20, 2003 quote:Originally posted by Criminal:Works best on ammo cans that should be banned... Excellent, I removed several of these offensive containers from other cache locations, can't wait to spray and place them Quote Link to comment
+welch Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 quote:Originally posted by Mr. Snazz:I want to spray paint a few ammo boxes for caches that I'll be placing, and was curious if any of you have tips/suggestions. Specifically, type of paint to use (brand name, etc), pre-paint prep, and anything else that you know on the subject I just use cheap spray can enamel, generally flat black. I find it scratchs pretty easy, but for spray in a can, what can you expect? Depending on how much time you want to spend, I just scotch-brite the can, spray a coat or two of primer on, then a couple coats of flat black. If you have more time, use stencils to spray leave/grass outlines on the can. But you could also just glue fake or even real grass/leaves/sticks onto the outside. Quote Link to comment
+Criminal Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Ammo cans have a pretty good base already, priming is a waste of paint/time IMHO. If you want to add depth, go tear off a few small branches, pine works best, lay them on the green can, and spray irregular stripes with black, brown, and tan. When you take the branches off, the outline (in the correct green color) of the branches make it very hard to see in the shadows. Quote Link to comment
+The Weasel Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 quote:Originally posted by welch: quote:Originally posted by Mr. Snazz:I want to spray paint a few ammo boxes for caches that I'll be placing, and was curious if any of you have tips/suggestions. Specifically, type of paint to use (brand name, etc), pre-paint prep, and anything else that you know on the subject I just use cheap spray can enamel, generally flat black. I find it scratchs pretty easy, but for spray in a can, what can you expect? Depending on how much time you want to spend, I just scotch-brite the can, spray a coat or two of primer on, then a couple coats of flat black. If you have more time, use stencils to spray leave/grass outlines on the can. But you could also just glue fake or even real grass/leaves/sticks onto the outside. http://brillig.com/geocaching/http://img.Groundspeak.com/user/22008_1700.gif http://www.gpgeocaching.com/ Thats what I did. I painted my ammo can a dull greenish black color, then stenciled some leaves on there, as well as bought some plastic leaves from a craft store and hot glued them on. Here is a link to my cache that has some pics.. http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.aspx?ID=29548 Quote Link to comment
+briansnat Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 I use Rustoleum in flat black, flat brown, flat grey and flat tan. I make sure I give the hinges and latch a good spray and the bottom gets a full coat. Then I just shoot random squirts of each color around the container. I do try to blot out the yellow writing on the side. If I plan on hiding the cache among rocks, grey and black are the primary colors I use. If it's among bushes the original green is the primary color, along with some black & brown. Same goes for caches I'm hiding among downed logs or stumps. "Paternalism is the greatist despotism" - Emmanual Kant Quote Link to comment
+geospotter Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 I painted one with Fleck-Stone spray. It gives the container a 3-dimensional rock-like appearance. I just picked up a can and sprayed it. Even after a few days of drying it still felt sticky. I read the paint's instructions (duh) and it said that it must also be coated with a Fleck-Stone finishing spray. Once I did that it felt dry. The only problem was it now looked like a perfectly shaped clean piece of granite. So I rubbed dirt all over it. Looks great. Now I just have to find some place with granite to hide it... geospotter [This message was edited by geospotter on January 20, 2003 at 12:47 PM.] Quote Link to comment
+bigredmed Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 KILZ primer followed by a variety of colors depending on my mood and the expected location. By appointment to the Court of HRM Queen Mikki I. Quote Link to comment
+EScout Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Aervoe brand Camouflage Paint, by Aervoe-Pacific Co., Gardnerville, NV. Meets FS595 color specs and seems like good quality. Comes in olive drab, and other flat colors. Got these at the same surplus store I recently got .30 cal ammo cans for $2 each. Quote Link to comment
+Jamie Z Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 All good suggestions. And just to drop a little compliment, I might consider sending Leatherneck an email. I've found several of his caches, and his ammo boxes are always looking good and in good shape. Jamie Quote Link to comment
+Sissy-n-CR Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 I use Rust-Oleum specialty paint in camo colors. They have, that I could find, Dirt, Drab, and Sand. I'd really like to find some more colors. Here are some of my first attempts. I think the second from the left on the back row is the best, but the extreme right middle row works good in the shadows, as does the solid black, extreme right, back row. This pic was taken on an overcast day, that's why it's so dark. I cut a random camo pattern out of cardboard and I'm still using it. Makes it pretty easy. CR Quote Link to comment
+georgeandmary Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 I've found a few lately that were a flat white. Kind of surprised about that put it made for an easier find. FWIW, I use the flat camo spraypaints mentioned above. Green, Black, and Brown. george Pedal until your legs cramp up and then pedal some more. Quote Link to comment
+Desert_Warrior Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 is to wrap them with a few turns of camo-duct tape. Not only does it camo the box, but it also protects it, and keeps it from banging too loudly and calling attention to the cachers. Camo duct tape is available in several patterns and colors. JMHO-YMMV. Mike. Desert_Warrior (aka KD9KC). El Paso, Texas. Citizens of this land may own guns. Not to threaten their neighbors, but to ensure themselves of liberty and freedom. They are not assault weapons anymore... they are HOMELAND DEFENSE WEAPONS! Quote Link to comment
Cache Canucks Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 quote:Originally posted by Sissy-n-CR:"...Here are some of my first attempts..." That's a very cool pic CR! Perhaps we should start a forum that's essentially a 'gallery' where folks can display images of their 'best of' efforts in deceptive cache container design (be it cam'd ammo boxes, hollowed out rocks, fake tree stumps with hidden compartments ...or 'whatever')? Heck, I'd gladly wait for such a 'Page o'Pics' to load over my dial-up connection just so that I could browse through images like the one you posted! The other advantage to such a 'gallery' (aside from education and entertainment) would be that, unlike displaying a container pic on an cache page, you wouldn't be giving anything away 'hint-wise' for when the container is actually put into service (ie: there needn't be any mention of which cache a particular container is being used for). Or has this already been done? Quote Link to comment
+Prime Suspect Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 quote:Originally posted by Desert_Warrior:is to wrap them with a few turns of camo-duct tape. Not only does it camo the box, but it also protects it, and keeps it from banging too loudly and calling attention to the cachers. Camo duct tape is available in several patterns and colors. I used the camo duct tape on one cache (the original can color was bright blue), and it looked good until I actually placed it in the field. The tape is shiny. Bad for blending in. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but I'll never use it again. I'm sticking with the Rust-oleum camo paint - a nice dull ultra-flat non-reflective finish, and it dries fast. One thing I did learn - I used camo paint on a film can recently, and it just flaked off. You have to prep the surface by sanding it slightly first. I imagine the same is true for decon-kits too. Quote Link to comment
+fizzymagic Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 To fix the shininess of the camo duct tape, spray a light coat of brown or gray flat camo paint; not enough to obscure the camo, but enough to make it "dirty." Or use Testors' DullCote. Wonderful stuff. You'd be surprised by what magicians use it for. I use camo duct tape for film canisters and Tupperware, both products that will not hold regular paint. I don't like it so much for ammo cans. Quote Link to comment
Cracker. Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 quote: I painted one with Fleck-Stone spray. It gives the container a 3-dimensional rock-like appearance. I just picked up a can and sprayed it. Even after a few days of drying it still felt sticky. I read the paint's instructions (duh) and it said that it must also be coated with a Fleck-Stone finishing spray. Once I did that it felt dry. The only problem was it now looked like a perfectly shaped clean piece of granite. So I rubbed dirt all over it. Looks great. Now I just have to find some place with granite to hide it... geospotter Paragon Adventure Park in Hasleton, PA would be a good spot... I found that Rustoleum has a rusty metal primer, that is a nice red color....It blends in well in pine stands....Blends with the needles and rotted pine NICE! I also used 3M rubber undercoating paint on my black boxes....Gives a nice rough texture, quiets down the boxes, and protects against rust, as long as its not scratched, which it does pretty easy... Art www.yankeetoys.org www.BudBuilt.com http://www.ttora-ne.mainpage.net/ Quote Link to comment
+Kodak's4 Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 quote:Originally posted by Mr. Snazz:I want to spray paint a few ammo boxes for caches that I'll be placing, and was curious if any of you have tips/suggestions. Specifically, type of paint to use (brand name, etc), pre-paint prep, and anything else that you know on the subject I've tried several different paints, including Rustoleum, cheapo store brand, and Krylon. I think the Krylon camo ultraflat paints work best. Acetone will take the yellow lettering off with far less hassle than sanding it off, using a wire brush, etc. Just beware of the fumes. If the can is not all banged up or rusted, I don't prime it. If it is scratched or rusted, I wire brush the rust off and then prime it before the final paint. I like to paint the inside of the can with either flat white or aluminum paint. It makes it much easier to see what the heck is in the can when you open it up, much nicer and it only takes a moment. Quote Link to comment
+Prime Suspect Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 quote:Originally posted by fizzymagic:To fix the shininess of the camo duct tape, spray a light coat of brown or gray flat camo paint; not enough to obscure the camo, but enough to make it "dirty." I thought about using a dulling spray. But if I'm going to be spray painting it, I'd rather just do camo paint to begin with. Besides, working with the tape on odd shaped parts (edges of lids, etc,) is more time-consuming than it's worth, IMO. Quote Link to comment
+15Tango Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 I found this stuff named "Hunter's Camoflage Paint" at Mill's Fleet Farm, a local outfit that sells farm supplies, huntin' & fishin' supplies, sportin' goods, Dickies, Carhart, automotive stuff, home improvement stuff, etc.--I've heard it referred to as Redneck Target by some people (since I stop by at least once a month, I must be a Redneck). Oh, wait, we were talkin' paint. Anyhow, this stuff is made by St. Louis Paint Mfg. Co., and I have Olive Drab, Desert Tan, Brown, Black, and Grey, and it seems to work pretty good, except those "Official Geocache" stickers don't seem to stick to it that well, especially when it gets cold. BTW, Fleet Farm also sells ammo cans, but they get them by the pallet, and out of their last pallet full of ammo cans, I only found four that weren't all rusted and nasty. Speaking of ammo cans, the 7.62 for M-60 size make great CD cases for your vehicle. Think Globally, Act Locally Life is good. Quote Link to comment
+kevin917z Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 to remove the yellow marking simply put some acetone on a rag and it comes right off, will not remove the green paint, just the yellow i think denatured alcohol probably will work too Quote Link to comment
+Dixie's Crew Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 Great idea! : quote:I like to paint the inside of the can with either flat white or aluminum paint. It makes it much easier to see what the heck is in the can when you open it up, much nicer and it only takes a moment. Quote Link to comment
dsandbro Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 After having searched for some caches for an hour or more bright day-glo orange starts to sound pretty good. ======================================== Friends don't let Friends geocache drunk. Quote Link to comment
+Alan2 Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 quote:Originally posted by BrianSnat:I use Rustoleum in flat black, flat brown, flat grey and flat tan. I make sure I give the hinges and latch a good spray and the bottom gets a full coat. Then I just shoot random squirts of each color around the container. I do try to blot out the yellow writing on the side. If I plan on hiding the cache among rocks, grey and black are the primary colors I use. If it's among bushes the original green is the primary color, along with some black & brown. Same goes for caches I'm hiding among downed logs or stumps. _"Paternalism is the greatist despotism" - Emmanual Kant_ Brian: How do you know where you're hiding them before you get there? Alan Quote Link to comment
+briansnat Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 quote:Brian: How do you know where you're hiding them before you get there? Most of the time I have scouted an area before I place the cache. If not, I assume that if I'm placing it in the NJ Highlands, it will probably be among rocks. If I'm planning on placing it in a swamp, or low area, I assume it will be among grass, stumps or roots. "Paternalism is the greatist despotism" - Emmanual Kant Quote Link to comment
Micqn Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 Try taping your cache containers in Camoflage Duct Tape! Happy. Hunting. Quote Link to comment
+Prime Suspect Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 quote:Originally posted by '68 Dodger:Try taping your cache containers in Camoflage Duct Tape! Yes, the good and bad of camo duct tape was discussed about a dozen messages up, in this very thread. Although it's tempting, I'll avoid actually posting a link. Quote Link to comment
+Prime Suspect Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 And since this thread has gotten resurrected, I'll pass along a tip. It's fairly easy to remove the labeling on the side of a decon kit. The plastic label will peal off, and any remaining lettering and adhesive can be removed with some Goo-Gone (or similar product). However, there is a paragraph of scary text ("CAUTION - POISONOUS AND CAUSTIC HAZARD, KEEP OUT OF EYE, WOUND OR MOUTH," etc.) that's actually molded into the plastic lid, in raised letters. You can use a window scraper (the type that holds a razor blade), to actually slice the lettering right off the lid. Use appropriate caution, of course - it is a razor blade. A little sanding when done will remove any remaining traces. This is much faster than trying to do it with sandpaper alone. Quote Link to comment
+ErSamin Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 quote:Originally posted by Prime Suspect: quote:Originally posted by Desert_Warrior:is to wrap them with a few turns of camo-duct tape. Not only does it camo the box, but it also protects it, and keeps it from banging too loudly and calling attention to the cachers. Camo duct tape is available in several patterns and colors. I used the camo duct tape on one cache (the original can color was bright blue), and it looked good until I actually placed it in the field. The tape is __shiny__. Bad for blending in. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but I'll never use it again. I'm sticking with the Rust-oleum camo paint - a nice dull ultra-flat non-reflective finish, and it dries fast. One thing I did learn - I used camo paint on a film can recently, and it just flaked off. You have to prep the surface by sanding it slightly first. I imagine the same is true for decon-kits too. http://img.Groundspeak.com/user/3608_1400.gif I found some camo tape that has a flat finish. I believe that it is used by bow hunters and the like to cover shiny, or brightly colored items. I have not tested it in the field yet...no telling how it will stand up to the weather. "Could be worse...could be raining" Quote Link to comment
Cracker. Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 You might also try Hammerite spraypaint. It dries with a very textured surface, not smooth. Its also very durable, I know lots of people use it for painting the lower parts of their heavily modified and used 4x4's. I think they have flat colors, too. Art www.yankeetoys.org www.BudBuilt.com http://www.ttora-ne.mainpage.net/ Quote Link to comment
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