Good magnets for gluing into the bottom of a Lock N Lock

[+LEGO]

I need somewhere that I can buy some good powerful magnets to glue into the bottom of a plastic container to hold it into place, because I don't want to use an MKH. I have been to all of the hobby & department stores in my area, and haven't found anything that will work so far. Does anyone have a great place to buy something that will work?

Also, once I get some magnets, what is the best way to glue them into the container?

Oh, while I am asking questions, does anyone just spray paint their Lock N Lock containers, as opposed to using camo duct tape?

[+WatchDog2020]

I need somewhere that I can buy some good powerful magnets to glue into the bottom of a plastic container to hold it into place, because I don't want to use an MKH. I have been to all of the hobby & department stores in my area, and haven't found anything that will work so far. Does anyone have a great place to buy something that will work?

Also, once I get some magnets, what is the best way to glue them into the container?

Oh, while I am asking questions, does anyone just spray paint their Lock N Lock containers, as opposed to using camo duct tape?

 

Google 'N42 Magnet' - The N number is the 'power rating' of a magnet. A 1 inch square by 1/2 inch think magnet takes a couple hundred pounds of force to remove. So I suggest you use smaller ones and glue them ON THE INSIDE of the container. BRB with some links.

 

I've ordered from these guys before - (2 inch squares that could take a finger off) They have good magnets with all types of mounting options.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/

 

Of course there is always E-Bay

 

LOL - TrentsGang and I use the same company - they must be good

Edited August 15, 2008 by WatchDog2020

[TrentsGang]

Good morning! I figure this is a good excuse for my first post!

 

Do a google search for "rare earth magnets" and you will find many dealers. This is one I have used frequently; http://www.kjmagnetics.com/

 

I have used rare earth magnets in woodworking projects where a strong hold is needed. As for attaching them to the cache, use a 2 part epoxy. Any other type of glue will fail.

[+GIDEON-X]

Earth Mag's......Google / The last ones I got where found on eBay.,,,,(Good-Price) I do not glue them on the outside bottom.......the EM's are strong enough to be placed inside the container............a drop of most any kind of glue will keep them in place. Yes I spray paint the plastic....don't mess with the tape..............

[+LEGO]

Goolgle 'N42 Magnet' - The N number is the 'power rating' of a magnet. A 1 inch square by 1/2 inch think magnet takes a couple hundred pounds of force to remove. So I suggest you use smaller ones and glue them ON THE INSIDE of the container. BRB with some links.

 

I've ordered from these guys before - (2 inch squares that could take a finger off) They have good magnets with all types of mounting options.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/

 

Of course there is always E-Bay

 

LOL - TrentsGang and I use the same company - they must be good

This is great information, but what do you suggest for a power rating for a cache container? It sounds like I do not need N42!

[TrentsGang]

If you look at the individual magnets on the website, it lists the load capacity of the magnet in pounds. Figure out how heavy your cache will be, then you can get the appropriate magnet.

 

Watchdog - We definitely had the mind meld going on that one!

Edited August 15, 2008 by TrentsGang

[+LEGO]

If you look at the individual magnets on the website, it lists the load capacity of the magnet in pounds. Figure out how heavy your cache will be, then you can get the appropriate magnet.

 

Watchdog - We definitely had the mind meld going on that one!

The web site lists a "Pull Force", is that the same as what you are describing as "load capacity"?

They sell a 5/8" dia. x 1/8" thick magnet with a pull force of 26.87 lbs for 90 cents apiece. A few of those in the bottom should hold a 6 oz. capacity Lock N Lock to just about any piece of metal.

[+LEGO]

double post (note to self - if the web site gives you a timeout DO NOT reload it, your post went through okay)

Edited August 15, 2008 by LEGO Cacher

[TrentsGang]

Yep, that's what I was talking about. I didn't bother to go back and look how they phrased it. That size magnet will be more than plenty. I would recommend that you put in one magnet and give it a test. You may find that two magnets make it surprisingly hard to remove!

[cliff_hanger]

I need somewhere that I can buy some good powerful magnets to glue into the bottom of a plastic container to hold it into place, because I don't want to use an MKH. I have been to all of the hobby & department stores in my area, and haven't found anything that will work so far. Does anyone have a great place to buy something that will work?

Also, once I get some magnets, what is the best way to glue them into the container?

Oh, while I am asking questions, does anyone just spray paint their Lock N Lock containers, as opposed to using camo duct tape?

 

I've heard of some people using magnets salvaged from old hard drives. I think they might put the magnets on the inside of the box instead of gluing them to the outside. I suppose you could put the magnet under the camo tape.

 

Here's some links that may be helpful

 

Thread on using glue

 

magnets and glue

 

Painting loc-n-locs

 

I mask off a small area on top of the lid before painting. After painting, I remove the masking tape and tape a "Geocache" label on the INSIDE of the lid so that it shows through the non-painted area of the lid and is protected by the clear plastic.

 

I don't bother with making a camo pattern. Krylon Fusion flat black, dark brown or some other earth tone works well. The paint gets scratched up over time but this just seems to add to the camo.

[+TexasGringo]

Home Depot has some good strong magnets.

[+the pooks]

I'm working on a similar project. I obtained some rare earth magnets from a badge company - they provide parts for lapel badges - those things that officers and delegates might wear. I would never have thought that there is such a market that a whole company can exist on supplying badges.

 

I also thought of glueing the magnet to the inside of the container - but won't you end up with swag stuck to the magnet?

[+blb9556]

I doubt you have any but Hard drive magnets are good. They are very powerful. Each hard drive usually has 2 in them. Of course good luck getting a broken Hard drive.

[+Castle Mischief]

Actually, I rather like the stronger magnets at Hobby Lobby. I've found they work quite well if placed inside the container and secured with silicone.

[+Castle Mischief]

I also thought of glueing the magnet to the inside of the container - but won't you end up with swag stuck to the magnet?

 

Probably. But I'd rather find swag stuck to a magnet than cheap melted plastic swag stuck to everything else in the cache.

 

I found a travel bug that was a magnet recently. All the other travel bugs were stuck to it and they were, in turn, stuck to the container.

[chuckr30]

What you want are rare earth magnets. There are also excellent magnets in old hard drives. Open the hard drive (a real puzzle in itself because many screws are hidden under sticky labels), using a metal screwdriver, you will find the magnetic part. It moves the read/write head and is a shiny silver color. You will need a special small torx screwdriver. I had to buy mine from Home Depot, most stores don't carry that small size.

 

VERY strong magnets. Be careful or you will get a blood blister.

[+9Key]

I've found that the RE magnets at Hobby Lobby are more than sufficient for my caches. They're a lot cheaper than buying htme off eBay too once you add shipping to the cost. I use them on the inside of container and use Liquid Nails or JB Weld for glue.

 

Hard drive magnets are great if you can get them. If you have a computer repair store in your area call them and ask if they have any old junk drives you can have.

[+9Key]

There are also excellent magnets in old hard drives. Open the hard drive (a real puzzle in itself because many screws are hidden under sticky labels), using a metal screwdriver, you will find the magnetic part. It moves the read/write head and is a shiny silver color. You will need a special small torx screwdriver. I had to buy mine from Home Depot, most stores don't carry that small size.

I never could find the right size Torx so I just drill the screws off. You're destroying the drive anyway!

[+briansnat]

also, once I get some magnets, what is the best way to glue them into the container?

 

Don't glue them to the container. Just put them inside the container and hold in place with duct tape. That way you'll not have to worry about the glue giving away.

 

Only negative is anything metal in the cache sticks to the magnets, but that's not a big deal

 

Two 1" rare earth magnets will hold a Lock n Lock in place, or 4 if you really want it to stick.

 

Here are pics.

 

 

 

 

[+LEGO]

I've found that the RE magnets at Hobby Lobby are more than sufficient for my caches. They're a lot cheaper than buying htme off eBay too once you add shipping to the cost. I use them on the inside of container and use Liquid Nails or JB Weld for glue.

 

Hard drive magnets are great if you can get them. If you have a computer repair store in your area call them and ask if they have any old junk drives you can have.

My Hobby Lobby did not have any rare earth magnets. They only had some rather weak things that would not work very well in a cache container.

 

The hard drive magnet idea is a great one. I have some laying around here that I will start tearing apart.

[Clan Riffster]

You've already received the answers, so all I can do is reiterate that you should put the magnet(s) inside the container. I had a bunch of the old style metal film canisters, (aluminum body/steel lid), which I gave away during an event. They all had magnets in them. I tried two part epoxy in two different strengths, super glue, and even JB Weld, and all of them failed to hold the magnet to the exterior of the can. A couple drops of epoxy on the inside held them just fine.

[+Sileny Jizda]

I mentioned to you in the email to try Pat Catan's, Lego. They have a whole whack of emm usually IF I haven't been by and talked the wife into getting them. If you go to the one in Wooster I can probably even tell you what aisle they are on. As you saw first hand they are plenty strong. You'll also note when I used the glue I actually coated the entire bottom of the cache. The particular one you found has been in the wild like that for a year now. I experimented with duct tape and found it iffy at best. Once the tape dries and curls you get one heck of a mess.

[+briansnat]

The hard drive magnet idea is a great one. I have some laying around here that I will start tearing apart.

 

You'll need a drill with a bit that cuts metal and a lot of elbow grease, but the magnets are great. I have one inside an Altoids tin and the logs consistently complain about how hard it is to budge the cache from its hiding spot.

[CoyoteRed]

I recently did a project (non-geocaching) where I went to the Lee Valley website and purchased magnets with cups. I also purchased the little non-skid pads that go along with it. Now, instead of having to drill through 1/4" plate steel I've got it attached with 4 1" magnets. It doesn't move.

 

The cups concentrate the magnetic field to one side. Go with just one magnet with cup and BS's idea of taping it to the inside of the lid, and I can't see how you could go wrong.

 

I'd buy a set of 1/2", 3/4" and 1" to play with to see which is adequate for the job. You might not want 30 lbs of force from the 1" set on your lid--it might be too much.

 

The cups will reduce the issue of trinkets getting stuck, too.

 

Also, you have to pay attention to the thickness of metal to which you are sticking your cache. Thicker metals allow for the magnet to work better. So, a magnet that works okay on a piece of thick plate steel might not work at all on thin sheet metal.

[+Wild Thing 73]

Wal-mart.....the smaller ones are very powerful...good luck and happy caching....Oh and inexpensive.

[+Arndtwe]

The hard drive magnet idea is a great one. I have some laying around here that I will start tearing apart.

 

You'll need a drill with a bit that cuts metal and a lot of elbow grease, but the magnets are great. I have one inside an Altoids tin and the logs consistently complain about how hard it is to budge the cache from its hiding spot.

What do you need the drill for? There are generally 5-6 star screws. You can get a star driver at WAL-

MART only costs a couple of bucks. I have taken apart a number of hard drives and I only need to use "extra" force to get them open when I accidentally strip one of the screws. With getting the actual magnets out. If you do decide to get a star driver, I would suggest getting a pack with a variety of sizes. Good luck to all who attempt!!

Edited August 18, 2008 by Arndtwe

[+EScout]

I second everything Arndtwe says. My set of Torx drivers in sizes #6 to #10 have been used for many things over the years. A set is only a few dollars.

There is a monthly electronics swap meet near me where some sellers have boxes of old hard drives for $1 each. Most are bad, some still work, but at 2 to 4 GB, they have no storage value. Taken apart in a few seconds, the magnets are great, the discs make nice signal mirrors, the aluminum spacer rings must be good for something, the aluminum case can be cut up for tags.

[+LEGO]

I mentioned to you in the email to try Pat Catan's, Lego. They have a whole whack of emm usually IF I haven't been by and talked the wife into getting them. If you go to the one in Wooster I can probably even tell you what aisle they are on. As you saw first hand they are plenty strong. You'll also note when I used the glue I actually coated the entire bottom of the cache. The particular one you found has been in the wild like that for a year now. I experimented with duct tape and found it iffy at best. Once the tape dries and curls you get one heck of a mess.

Sileny - I did not get the email from you.

I did notice that you coated the entire inside bottom of the container - what type of glue did you use?

[+LEGO]

Painting loc-n-locs

 

I mask off a small area on top of the lid before painting. After painting, I remove the masking tape and tape a "Geocache" label on the INSIDE of the lid so that it shows through the non-painted area of the lid and is protected by the clear plastic.

 

I don't bother with making a camo pattern. Krylon Fusion flat black, dark brown or some other earth tone works well. The paint gets scratched up over time but this just seems to add to the camo.

When you paint the container, do you mask off any other parts (like the rim of the bottom, so that the seal from the lid does not stick to it)?

[+briansnat]

The hard drive magnet idea is a great one. I have some laying around here that I will start tearing apart.

 

You'll need a drill with a bit that cuts metal and a lot of elbow grease, but the magnets are great. I have one inside an Altoids tin and the logs consistently complain about how hard it is to budge the cache from its hiding spot.

What do you need the drill for? There are generally 5-6 star screws. You can get a star driver at WAL-

MART only costs a couple of bucks. I have taken apart a number of hard drives and I only need to use "extra" force to get them open when I accidentally strip one of the screws. With getting the actual magnets out. If you do decide to get a star driver, I would suggest getting a pack with a variety of sizes. Good luck to all who attempt!!

 

I strip those screws all the time, hence the drill.

 

When you paint the container, do you mask off any other parts (like the rim of the bottom, so that the seal from the lid does not stick to it)?

 

When I paint a Lock n Lock I turn the container upside down. That way no paint gets on the rim. Or sometimes I simply paint it with the lid in place.

[Clan Riffster]

I strip those screws all the time, hence the drill.

Yeah, me too. I've only gutted half a dozen hard drives in my life, and of those 6, only one came apart with the application of a Torx head driver. The other 5 required drilling the screws out. I'm not sure if this is due to the screws being inferior, or if I'm simply incompetent in using simple hand tools. Knowing my history, if I were to gut one now, I wouldn't even bother with the Torx. My cordless drill is much faster anyway.

Edited August 20, 2008 by Clan Riffster