Ideas for Coordinate Clues in a Multicache

[+Avid Cacher]

Hey, everyone.

 

I've got a multicache placed in a town park near to me. It's a puzzle that requires the cacher to use either their knowledge or the Internet to solve clues that will provide them the coordinates to the next leg of the cache. An example is:

 

Mystery Coordinates: N 42° 34.7A5 W 078° 56.B7

Clue A: What day of the month did the U.S. enter World War II?

Clue B: What is the result of any number multiplied by 0?

 

The answer to question A will reveal the missing number in the North coordinates, and the answer to question B will reveal the missing number in the West Coordinates. Currently, the way I've been providing these clues in each container is by printing them on paper, then cutting them out and laminating them. However, moisture always seems to find its way into lamination. Even if the container doesn't get soaking wet, general humidity seems to do just as much damage, and I'm tired of replacing the coordinates all the time.

 

So, I'm wondering if there's another way to do this... I've seen some people etch the coordinates into metal before, but I don't know what's required to do that sort of thing, especially with a long bit of information like the clues listed above. Would wood work instead? Cut the size I need, burn the information into it, then use sealant on it to keep the water from rotting it? Are there companies that could custom make something the size of a dogtag or something and etch the information into it?

 

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to have to keep replacing the laminated pieces, but I don't want to have to archive the cache either.

 

Thanks,

Avid Cacher

 

EDIT: What I'm asking is if anyone has any ideas for a better way to leave the clues in each leg of the cache. Right now I print the clues out, then laminate each and place it in the appropriate container. The problem is that they always seem to get wet and ruin the ink. So, I need a better method. I've seen people etch coordinates into pieces of metal or wood before, but don't know how easy that will be to do.

Edited May 1, 2014 by Avid Cacher

[+niraD]

I don't think I've ever found a multi-stage cache with questions like that located at the non-final stages. Usually, when there have been questions like that, the questions themselves have been in the cache description, and the answers have depended on objects at the non-final stages. An example of this type of question is GC1EM3H, which is listed as a multi-cache.

 

Or the questions have been in the cache description, and the answers could be researched. An example of this type of question is GCGC7Z, which is listed as a mystery/puzzle cache. There is only one stage (the final cache location) though, because the posted coordinates are bogus.

[+Avid Cacher]

I don't think I've ever found a multi-stage cache with questions like that located at the non-final stages. Usually, when there have been questions like that, the questions themselves have been in the cache description, and the answers have depended on objects at the non-final stages. An example of this type of question is GC1EM3H, which is listed as a multi-cache.

 

Or the questions have been in the cache description, and the answers could be researched. An example of this type of question is GCGC7Z, which is listed as a mystery/puzzle cache. There is only one stage (the final cache location) though, because the posted coordinates are bogus.

 

I'm not sure what your point is... Are you saying that you don't like the idea behind my cache? If so, then you're certainly entitled to your opinion, but everyone who has completed my cache has enjoyed it. It's noted in the description of the cache that it's best attempted with a smartphone so you can look up the answers if you don't know them. The cache takes you along a little path through the woods of the park, and there are no objects that I could have used as clues. I know what you mean though; I once did a multi that went through a cemetery and you had to find clues from the headstones. If I could have done that, I would.

 

Anyways; thanks for the reply. I would change the cache to that of a typical multicache where the coordinates to the next leg are just plain old coordinates, but then I'd have to archive the existing one and relist it, because the nature of the cache would have changed so much. That's why I'd like to keep it as is, but find an easier way to store the clue/coordinates in each container.

 

Thanks.

[+jellis]

Not sure about your post. Are you asking cachers what they think about your Multi or giving ideas for others to create?

 

I have one that each stage is slightly different. Different QR or UPC codes, a Blacklight needed for another, and a chirp. The cache page starts with a Microsoft Tag.

Edited May 1, 2014 by jellis

[+Avid Cacher]

Not sure about your post. Are you asking cachers what they think about your Multi or giving ideas for others to create?

 

I have one that each stage is slightly different. Different QR or UPC codes, a Blacklight needed for another, and a chirp. The cache page starts with a Microsoft Tag.

 

Sorry for the confusion; I'll edit my initial post to be a bit more clear.

 

What I'm asking is if anyone has any ideas for a better way to leave the clues in each leg of the cache. Right now I print the clues out, then laminate each and place it in the appropriate container. The problem is that they always seem to get wet and ruin the ink. So, I need a better method. I've seen people etch coordinates into pieces of metal or wood before, but don't know how easy that will be to do.

 

I just need ideas and suggestion of what would be better than laminated paper, as that doesn't seem to work well enough.

 

Again, sorry for the confusion.

[+Team Microdot]

Here's an idea which could work but would then switch your multi to one that would require a smartphone to complete - unless of course people simply traded the answers / coordinates which sadly seems to happen all too often anyway

 

Set yourself up with some webspace - free or paid and put each question on a web page of its own...

 

Generate short URL's (web addresses) for those pages using one of the free online services such as tinyurl, Bitly or goo.gl

 

Obtain some (comparatively) inexpensive NFC tags and store the appropriate shortened URL on each of them. Be sure to lock the tags so they can't be overwritten.

 

Place the NFC tags in the appropriate multi-stage container et. voila.

 

The least expensive NFC tags are in the form of adhesive labels but for a little extra cash, weatherproof plastic discs can be obtained.

 

Obviously there's some work in setting this up, you yourself would need access to an NFC capable smartphone to write the NFC tags and you might suffer complaints from cachers who don't have access to the requisite technology but I think it's good to stretch the envelope and explore other ways of doing things every so often

[+Isonzo Karst]

I have a couple of punch sets, both numbers and letters. I've used these on copper plant tags as standard type coords info, with a tad more info using the letters. These sets cost less than you might think, looking around online.

 

It would be tedious, but doable, to punch letters and numbers into a sheet of metal. Aluminum flashing would be reasonably inexpensive. You'd need to cut to size, hammer the edges to kill that sharpness, then start punching.

 

I had a multi with Q&A in several stages, I was able to use ammo cans for those stages. Info was printed on National Geographic waterproof (resistant) paper and laminated, there were other props and games in the cans as well. I'd say your problem is not the paper and lamination, it's the containers.

 

I understand that there may not be cover for ammo cans, they can be pricey too, and some land managers won't allow them.

 

My second choice would be lock and locks. And/or keep your paper as small as you can, put it inside a second, interior container, within a larger one, using the best containers you can come up with. Local to me, someone has been placing Rubbermaid brand boxes. They're holding up quite well, and are less pricey than lock and locks.

[+Avid Cacher]

Here's an idea which could work but would then switch your multi to one that would require a smartphone to complete - unless of course people simply traded the answers / coordinates which sadly seems to happen all too often anyway

 

Set yourself up with some webspace - free or paid and put each question on a web page of its own...

 

Generate short URL's (web addresses) for those pages using one of the free online services such as tinyurl, Bitly or goo.gl

 

Obtain some (comparatively) inexpensive NFC tags and store the appropriate shortened URL on each of them. Be sure to lock the tags so they can't be overwritten.

 

Place the NFC tags in the appropriate multi-stage container et. voila.

 

The least expensive NFC tags are in the form of adhesive labels but for a little extra cash, weatherproof plastic discs can be obtained.

 

Obviously there's some work in setting this up, you yourself would need access to an NFC capable smartphone to write the NFC tags and you might suffer complaints from cachers who don't have access to the requisite technology but I think it's good to stretch the envelope and explore other ways of doing things every so often

Thanks for the information; I'll look into it! I'm not sure if it's the route I'll end up going though, as I don't want to make it any less likely than it already is that a lot of cachers will attempt my cache. Most people nowadays have smartphones, but perhaps not a smartphone that can do this sort of thing.

 

I have a couple of punch sets, both numbers and letters. I've used these on copper plant tags as standard type coords info, with a tad more info using the letters. These sets cost less than you might think, looking around online.

 

It would be tedious, but doable, to punch letters and numbers into a sheet of metal. Aluminum flashing would be reasonably inexpensive. You'd need to cut to size, hammer the edges to kill that sharpness, then start punching.

 

I had a multi with Q&A in several stages, I was able to use ammo cans for those stages. Info was printed on National Geographic waterproof (resistant) paper and laminated, there were other props and games in the cans as well. I'd say your problem is not the paper and lamination, it's the containers.

 

I understand that there may not be cover for ammo cans, they can be pricey too, and some land managers won't allow them.

 

My second choice would be lock and locks. And/or keep your paper as small as you can, put it inside a second, interior container, within a larger one, using the best containers you can come up with. Local to me, someone has been placing Rubbermaid brand boxes. They're holding up quite well, and are less pricey than lock and locks.

This is what I was looking for. I didn't know that you could "punch" information into metal. But then again, that's how they make dogtags for soldiers, haha. What's aluminum flashing?

 

Another idea that I just thought of comes from a cache I once completed. It was a multi, and one of the legs was a small container with a strip of plastic inside that had coordinates punched into it. Is that something that could have been by a label maker of some kind, or would it have had to have been done by hand with a punch set? If I can find a punch set, I can easily get some plastic to use.

Edited May 1, 2014 by Avid Cacher

[+NYPaddleCacher]

Not sure about your post. Are you asking cachers what they think about your Multi or giving ideas for others to create?

 

I have one that each stage is slightly different. Different QR or UPC codes, a Blacklight needed for another, and a chirp. The cache page starts with a Microsoft Tag.

 

Sorry for the confusion; I'll edit my initial post to be a bit more clear.

 

What I'm asking is if anyone has any ideas for a better way to leave the clues in each leg of the cache. Right now I print the clues out, then laminate each and place it in the appropriate container. The problem is that they always seem to get wet and ruin the ink. So, I need a better method. I've seen people etch coordinates into pieces of metal or wood before, but don't know how easy that will be to do.

 

I just need ideas and suggestion of what would be better than laminated paper, as that doesn't seem to work well enough.

 

Again, sorry for the confusion.

 

waterproof paint?

 

I've got a two stage multi where, for the first stage, I just wrote the coordinates on a piece of paper, sealed with packing tape, and stapled it to a small block of wood (which is used as camo since it's hidden on a wooden structure). It's been out for four years without a problem.

[+Avid Cacher]

I've got a two stage multi where, for the first stage, I just wrote the coordinates on a piece of paper, sealed with packing tape, and stapled it to a small block of wood (which is used as camo since it's hidden on a wooden structure). It's been out for four years without a problem.

I like that idea! It's cheap and can be done without having to order anything that I don't already have here at home! Sealing the paper in packing tape could work a lot better than the laminate does... I think the problem with it is that it's not very flexible; if it gets bent or squished at all it can start to unseal itself. Tape wouldn't do that; it's pretty flexible.

 

I looked into the NFC Tag idea mentioned above too, and that seems easy enough to do as well. Amazon has sets of 10 for cheap that I could pick up. Then, I'd type the clues in Photoshop and save them as images, upload them to my Photobucket account, generate a shortened link to each image, and load those links to their corresponding NFC Tags. Then I'd just lock them and place them in their containers. It's doable. Most cachers nowadays have smartphones anyways, and most would need one to answer the questions anyways, so the NFC Tag idea wouldn't make it that much more difficult for anyone. From what I understand, most smartphones can read NFC Tags too; I know my Droid Incredible 2 can (I checked the Google Play Store).

 

Now the problem is what to choose! The packing tape idea is cheap and easy, but the NFC Tag thing is kinda cool!

 

EDIT: Another thing I have to think about is if I go the route of the NFC Tags, do I archive the cache and relist it (with a different name), seeing as the way it would be completed would have changed? As it is now, you MIGHT need a smartphone (unless you're really smart and know a lot of random facts), but with the NFC Tags you WOULD need a smartphone.

Edited May 1, 2014 by Avid Cacher

[+Team Microdot]

Now the problem is what to choose! The packing tape idea is cheap and easy, but the NFC Tag thing is kinda cool!

 

EDIT: Another thing I have to think about is if I go the route of the NFC Tags, do I archive the cache and relist it (with a different name), seeing as the way it would be completed would have changed? As it is now, you MIGHT need a smartphone (unless you're really smart and know a lot of random facts), but with the NFC Tags you WOULD need a smartphone.

 

If you do decide to experiment with NFC tags check their storage capacity very carefully before you buy - to make sure they will hold the required number of characters.

 

The tags come in various capacities - all of which are quite tiny when it comes to storing ASCII characters.

 

I think if the changes I were making to an existing multi were as 'drastic' as these I would probably archive and publish afresh.

[+Avid Cacher]

If you do decide to experiment with NFC tags check their storage capacity very carefully before you buy - to make sure they will hold the required number of characters.

 

The tags come in various capacities - all of which are quite tiny when it comes to storing ASCII characters.

 

I think if the changes I were making to an existing multi were as 'drastic' as these I would probably archive and publish afresh.

Amazon has two tags that I'm looking at; both sets of 10 PVC tags. One set holds 716 bytes and the other holds 137 bytes. The 716 byte set is less expensive than the 137 byte set so I'd likely go with those, but do you think 716 bytes would be enough for a Bitly or Goo.gl shortened URL?

 

EDIT: I think even the 137 bytes would be more than enough for a shortened URL. I searched it and each character in a URL is 1 byte.

Edited May 1, 2014 by Avid Cacher

[+Sharks-N-Beans]

I'm weighing in a bit late, but for what it's worth..,

We have 2 multis and use the packing tape method. It works fine, but leave overlap on the edges (adhesive to adhesive). If you want a more permanent feel which eliminate bisons etc., they make small copper gardening tags that are soft enough to write (impression) anything you want.

[+Team Microdot]

EDIT: I think even the 137 bytes would be more than enough for a shortened URL. I searched it and each character in a URL is 1 byte.

 

Yep - you beat me to it - 8 bits = 1 byte and 1 byte is sufficient to hold 1 character.

 

You'll always need to allow some spare capacity as there's bound to be some overhead just as there is when, say, formatting a disk - and probably a byte or two to record the lock/unlock status of the tag - but I'd say 137 bytes should be plenty for a shortened URL.

 

Having said that - I had some 'ultra light' tags at 48 bytes which just about hold a set of coordinates - 26 characters including letter, spaces, ° signs and decimal points - and whatever space was required to store the fact the tags are locked - so that's quite an overhead.

[+briansnat]

It probably wouldn't work for a cache such as yours with questions, but I like using copper plant tags for multi stages. After they've been out there for a while the develop a patina and are nicely camouflaged.

[+edscott]

Have an old "Wood burner kit" from your childhood? Sand a nice piece of hardwood, burn in the text and add a clear coat of varnish. A good fine tip permanent marker or a steady hand and a fine paint brush would work well too.

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

It probably wouldn't work for a cache such as yours with questions, but I like using copper plant tags for multi stages. After they've been out there for a while the develop a patina and are nicely camouflaged.

There are patina "makers" available. Instant patina is great!

It can be difficult to find, but you could locate it in a Ma & Pa hardware store (forget big-box hardware stores).

 

A combination of acids -- be careful with them, long-term storage is also a problem if you use it only occasionally.

[+The Jester]

I assume you are using an ink jet printer if water is messing with the ink. National Geographic Adventure Paper locks ink jet ink in and doesn't run.

 

Use a laser printer to print you tags, that 'ink' does run. Or use a copier to make copies of the tags, again not run ink. For extra protection, Rite-in-the-Rain paper doesn't easily absorbe water, so using this combo might last.

 

Get some tyvek material and use that to write your tags. I'm not sure if you can run it thru a printer, hand write with a waterproof pen.

[+dprovan]

First of all, I've encountered multis that use variations on your original technique, including just a strip of paper, and it works fine as long as the CO checks it regularly and replaces the clue when it starts to degrade. One thing that helps is to leave more than one copy so if information's lost on one, it might be found on another.

 

I've also done multis where the CO leaves multiple strips of paper and tells you to take one with you. That also works as long as the CO revisits the cache regularly to restock it. And, naturally, even with that approach, you should attempt to also leave a permanent note "just in case" you don't get around to doing the necessary maintenance. (Although when there's a depletable store like this, no one will take the last one.)

 

I've never tried it for a geocache, but I've noticed that these days you can get a lot of text on those dog tags sold in most pet stores. At least around here, there's always a machine in the front that lets you engrave a few lines of text into a metal tag for your dog. They're thinking name, address, and phone number, of course, but the ones I've looked are always general purpose, so you might be able to cram your entire question into one, or you might need to continue it on to a second one. They're usually about $5 a crack.

[+Avid Cacher]

This is an awesome list of ideas, everyone. Thanks so much!

 

I'm thinking that an easy solution for this cache could be as follows.

 

I could change the procedure so that you have to answer one question per leg, and then look for a number inside the container of each leg too. For example, to get from leg 2 to leg 3 you would answer the corresponding question to find the missing number(s) from the North coordinate, and then inside the container at leg 2 would be the missing number(s) from the West coordinate. This would keep the overall feel of the cache since its publishing, and also ensure that you actually have to go to each leg rather than answering the questions at home and going straight to the final. I also wouldn't have to worry about anything getting ruined by moisture.

 

The awesome ideas provided by all of you are ideas that I will hold onto for future caches, so they weren't given in vain.

 

Thanks again! Feel free to offer more ideas if you have them.

[+K13]

If we knew what type of container and its size at each of the locations, better suggestions may be offered.

The copper tags are great almost anywhere. The laminated cards, when using advised printing methods work well. In the right container, a paper taped to the inside of the lid is sufficient. If the container is large enough, just use a sharpie and write the information inside the lid.

 

I like the premise of your multi, and judging by the logs, cachers like it a lot. I also really like that you told everyone up front they will likely need a smartphone to access the information. That would save folks like me from attempting it without a 'research assistant' along for the hunt.

[+Mike in FN20hc]

Laser printed/Xeroxed paper would be least pricey, with rite-in-rain paper a close second (the leader of a nearby group I belong to brings a pack he bought to events and offers sheets for sale cheap).

 

My dad's Vietnam Vets post had a dog tag machine (may still, haven't seen any of them in a while) and would sell tags to the public at parades & other such events they went to. Wikipedia shows 5 lines with about 15 characters each. Surplus machines seem to be available, so other military or veteran organizations may be likely to offer tags too. Of course, there are lots of online commercial sellers as well.

[+Harry Dolphin]

Thanks for the information; I'll look into it! I'm not sure if it's the route I'll end up going though, as I don't want to make it any less likely than it already is that a lot of cachers will attempt my cache. Most people nowadays have smartphones, but perhaps not a smartphone that can do this sort of thing.

 

"Most people"??? 51%? Lots of us who don't! Make sure you use the 'special equipment required' icon for those of us who don't. I'd really hate to be out in the field hunting caches to find that a smart phone is required!

I do have a multistage cache with hints at several spots. I use laminated paper. I laminate with my iron. If the hint fits without bending or folding it works best. And paint the container to eliminate sun fade. (Yes. Mine is done with an ink-jet printer.)

[+Avid Cacher]

If we knew what type of container and its size at each of the locations, better suggestions may be offered.

The copper tags are great almost anywhere. The laminated cards, when using advised printing methods work well. In the right container, a paper taped to the inside of the lid is sufficient. If the container is large enough, just use a sharpie and write the information inside the lid.

 

I like the premise of your multi, and judging by the logs, cachers like it a lot. I also really like that you told everyone up front they will likely need a smartphone to access the information. That would save folks like me from attempting it without a 'research assistant' along for the hunt.

Yeah, I suppose I should have included the size of the containers; that would have been helpful. I think what I'm going to do is what I mentioned above though; alter the hint system and write a coordinate number inside each container with a Sharpie.

 

Thanks for the support! Everyone does seem to enjoy the cache, which is great, and I'm sure it's appreciated that I noted on the cache page that you may need a smartphone to complete it. After this change though, you won't need one; you'll be able to look the questions up on your computer beforehand.

 

Laser printed/Xeroxed paper would be least pricey, with rite-in-rain paper a close second (the leader of a nearby group I belong to brings a pack he bought to events and offers sheets for sale cheap).

 

My dad's Vietnam Vets post had a dog tag machine (may still, haven't seen any of them in a while) and would sell tags to the public at parades & other such events they went to. Wikipedia shows 5 lines with about 15 characters each. Surplus machines seem to be available, so other military or veteran organizations may be likely to offer tags too. Of course, there are lots of online commercial sellers as well.

There are sellers on Amazon that will customize the dog tags with whatever you want them to say (within limits of course). That wouldn't work here though; there'd be too much to write.

 

"Most people"??? 51%? Lots of us who don't! Make sure you use the 'special equipment required' icon for those of us who don't. I'd really hate to be out in the field hunting caches to find that a smart phone is required!

I do have a multistage cache with hints at several spots. I use laminated paper. I laminate with my iron. If the hint fits without bending or folding it works best. And paint the container to eliminate sun fade. (Yes. Mine is done with an ink-jet printer.)

Okay; perhaps I overestimated how many cachers have smartphones, haha. After this simple change though, you won't need one; you'll be able to research the questions on your computer beforehand. For what it's worth though, I've had it listed on the cache page that you likely need Internet access in the field to find this cache, and nobody has complained.

[+BBWolf+3Pigs]

You can also buy Shrinky-Dink sheets at craft stores or Amazon. You write on it with a sharpy, then bake per the directions. As long as you start sufficiently large, the writing is legible. Now you basically have a plastic tag, which will weather just about anything.

 

I've used it for TB mission tags.

Edited May 2, 2014 by BBWolf+3Pigs

[+Avid Cacher]

You can also buy Shrinky-Dink sheets at craft stores or Amazon. You write on it with a sharpy, then bake per the directions. As long as you start sufficiently large, the writing is legible. Now you basically have a plastic tag, which will weather just about anything.

 

I've used it for TB mission tags.

That's actually a really neat idea! I'll be keeping that idea in my list for the future.

 

Thanks!

[team tisri]

I don't think I've ever found a multi-stage cache with questions like that located at the non-final stages. Usually, when there have been questions like that, the questions themselves have been in the cache description, and the answers have depended on objects at the non-final stages. An example of this type of question is GC1EM3H, which is listed as a multi-cache.

 

Or the questions have been in the cache description, and the answers could be researched. An example of this type of question is GCGC7Z, which is listed as a mystery/puzzle cache. There is only one stage (the final cache location) though, because the posted coordinates are bogus.

 

I'm not sure what your point is... Are you saying that you don't like the idea behind my cache? If so, then you're certainly entitled to your opinion, but everyone who has completed my cache has enjoyed it. It's noted in the description of the cache that it's best attempted with a smartphone so you can look up the answers if you don't know them. The cache takes you along a little path through the woods of the park, and there are no objects that I could have used as clues. I know what you mean though; I once did a multi that went through a cemetery and you had to find clues from the headstones. If I could have done that, I would.

 

Anyways; thanks for the reply. I would change the cache to that of a typical multicache where the coordinates to the next leg are just plain old coordinates, but then I'd have to archive the existing one and relist it, because the nature of the cache would have changed so much. That's why I'd like to keep it as is, but find an easier way to store the clue/coordinates in each container.

 

Thanks.

 

If you really want general knowledge questions to answer the chances are etching or engraving something onto metal is your best bet, as long as the metal won't rust and it's attached so it can't be taken away. You never know if someone will think it's a cool trade item, or they are supposed to take it to the next stage, or some such.

 

Alternatively you could give a list of coordinates with digits missing and build them up along the lines of "how many posts did you pass between point 1 and point 2?" and put the answer into the coordinates for point 3. Then on the way from point 2 to point 3 perhaps you count the number of streams that run under the path and put that into the coordinates for point 4. That lets you put all the questions in the text but still means people have to figure stuff out as they go around the puzzle. If there's absolutely nothing you can use it blows the idea away, although there are probably some things you could observe within the woods, rather than having to fall back on variations of "how far is to Fiddlersville?"

 

ETA: Is the answering of questions intended to be a key part of the cache? I was just thinking if people don't have a smartphone and don't know the answers it makes the cache much harder to solve. If putting "A=3, B=5" into the cache is an acceptable solution for you then it becomes much easier.

Edited May 3, 2014 by team tisri

[team tisri]

Just saw your edit. A jeweller can probably engrave something for you, and if you've got a few pieces to do and don't require anything particularly neat you might get a good price. Or perhaps you can buy a cheap engraver and do it yourself. You can buy a scriber pretty cheaply, which is essentially a stick of metal with a sharp point on the end, which will mark most metals easily. You won't be able to write on brass with a scriber as easily as you can write on paper with a pencil, but the weather won't be as cruel to a piece of metal.

[+niraD]

I'm not sure what your point is... Are you saying that you don't like the idea behind my cache?

Not at all. I'm just saying that I don't think I've ever found a multi-stage cache with questions like that located at the non-final stages.

 

Thinking about it more, I do have a few thoughts.

 

If you're printing clues, then use a laser printer (or a laser-technology copier) to produce the document before you laminate it. That way, even when moisture eventually gets through the lamination, the ink won't run the way it does with inkjet printers.

 

And of course, the suggestions about engraving something are good too. Of course, now I'm wondering what it would cost to engrave a question like that in a slab of stone, like a tombstone. But engraving on a smaller metal object is probably more along the lines of what you had in mind.

 

There are some pretty big sheet-metal plant tags out there, so you might be able to write the whole question on a plant tag. You could also make an over-sized "plant tag" with a sheet of copper or brass, if you could find something like that at a hardware or roofing store.

 

And if you can't engrave the whole question on a plant tag, then maybe you can put the key info on the plant tag, and put the rest of the question in the cache description.

[+Avid Cacher]

I got it all sorted out. See this post for the details (reading the rest of the thread might help too).

 

Basically I decided to change the cache slightly so that you don't need a smartphone to complete the cache, and I don't need to put anything inside the legs other than some numbers written inside the containers with a Sharpie. I'll still be archiving all of these suggestions for future reference though, in case I ever place another multi-cache.

 

Thanks, everyone! Let me know what you think of how I worked it all out.

 

- Patrick

Edited May 4, 2014 by Avid Cacher

[+The_Incredibles_]

Beads on a string. Tie a knot between each number.

Edited May 4, 2014 by The_Incredibles_

[+Avid Cacher]

Beads on a string. Tie a knot between each number.

That's a decent idea, but when I created this topic, I needed to be able to have words on object that I used as well as numbers. If it had been just coordinates this could have worked (I found a solution already anyways), but seeing as I needed to convey words too, it wouldn't have worked.

 

It's still a nice idea though! Thanks for sharing it.

[+The_Incredibles_]

Beads on a string. Tie a knot between each number.

That's a decent idea, but when I created this topic, I needed to be able to have words on object that I used as well as numbers. If it had been just coordinates this could have worked (I found a solution already anyways), but seeing as I needed to convey words too, it wouldn't have worked.

 

It's still a nice idea though! Thanks for sharing it.

 

You can get beads with both letters and numbers.

[+Avid Cacher]

You can get beads with both letters and numbers.

This is true.

[+kunarion]

I don't need to put anything inside the legs other than some numbers written inside the containers with a Sharpie.

There is printable heavy paper designed for "tags". And inkjet printable PVC "ID Cards" (I'm not recommending those in particular, it's just an example which has some info about how they work). But if you're hand-writing with a Sharpie, you could use most any light-colored plastic of a suitable size. Neither Sharpie nor inkjet may be as "permanent" outdoors as you might hope. It depends on a lot of factors.

Edited May 5, 2014 by kunarion

[+J Grouchy]

I have an 'unknown' cache where the first stage is a padlock on a chain link fence. This portion of the fence for some reason has about 15 to 20 padlocks on it. It's a Master lock with a hard plastic shell cover and I used a Dremel tool to write the clue for the final onto it. It's not actually coordinates, but a two word description of the hiding spot...so really the challenge for the finder is to identify the proper lock and use what I etched into it at the final location to locate the cache.

 

So, in short, a Dremel is good for rough etching into wood, plastic or metal. Just use care as it can be tricky to control.

[+Avid Cacher]

I don't need to put anything inside the legs other than some numbers written inside the containers with a Sharpie.

There is printable heavy paper designed for "tags". And inkjet printable PVC "ID Cards" (I'm not recommending those in particular, it's just an example which has some info about how they work). But if you're hand-writing with a Sharpie, you could use most any light-colored plastic of a suitable size. Neither Sharpie nor inkjet may be as "permanent" outdoors as you might hope. It depends on a lot of factors.

Thanks for the info!

 

I have an 'unknown' cache where the first stage is a padlock on a chain link fence. This portion of the fence for some reason has about 15 to 20 padlocks on it. It's a Master lock with a hard plastic shell cover and I used a Dremel tool to write the clue for the final onto it. It's not actually coordinates, but a two word description of the hiding spot...so really the challenge for the finder is to identify the proper lock and use what I etched into it at the final location to locate the cache.

 

So, in short, a Dremel is good for rough etching into wood, plastic or metal. Just use care as it can be tricky to control.

I never thought of using a dremel... Thanks!

[+KD_cachers]

Its easy to "print" on wood. Just print what ever you want on plain white paper, coat the wood with a heavy coat of exterior varnish, lay the paper on the wet varnish and brush on a second coat. Try to remove any air bubbles that may haved formed. The paper will go transparent and you will have to look close to see it.

[+Avid Cacher]

Its easy to "print" on wood. Just print what ever you want on plain white paper, coat the wood with a heavy coat of exterior varnish, lay the paper on the wet varnish and brush on a second coat. Try to remove any air bubbles that may haved formed. The paper will go transparent and you will have to look close to see it.

That's really unique! I like that!

[+niraD]

I've seen printed paper encased in epoxy resin. The optical characteristics of the resin aren't very good though. The printing will need to be relatively large to remain legible.

 

I've also seen fake labels of various kinds. There are labels on all sorts of things, labels that most people ignore.

[+Avid Cacher]

I've seen printed paper encased in epoxy resin. The optical characteristics of the resin aren't very good though. The printing will need to be relatively large to remain legible.

 

I've also seen fake labels of various kinds. There are labels on all sorts of things, labels that most people ignore.

How can a label be fake? Lol. I'm not sure I know what you mean.

[+Capt. Bob]

I use a hand-held Dymo label maker with a white plastic label cartridge (plastic tape will not fade). This allows me to carry it in the field and make impromptu labels as I travel backwards from the final to the start. The labels can be attached inside small containers or folded over to fit a match case.

[+niraD]

I've also seen fake labels of various kinds. There are labels on all sorts of things, labels that most people ignore.

How can a label be fake? Lol. I'm not sure I know what you mean.

Well, the label is certainly real. But it isn't the kind of label that it might appear to be. A common example is the flat magnet cache that looks like a sequence of random letters on the side of a utility box. But I've seen other labels that looked like they belonged there, but that were placed by the CO to provided coordinate info for geocachers.

[+Avid Cacher]

I use a hand-held Dymo label maker with a white plastic label cartridge (plastic tape will not fade). This allows me to carry it in the field and make impromptu labels as I travel backwards from the final to the start. The labels can be attached inside small containers or folded over to fit a match case.

I looked at those on Amazon when I was browsing for solutions, but I wasn't sure how well it would work for my purposes at the time. Before I changed the cache to how it is now, I would have needed to put quite a bit of text and numbers on each "piece" of the label for each cache. That's why I opted against it; I wasn't sure how well it would work, if the label could be folded to fit a matchstick container, etc.

 

I'll consider one for the future though!

[+NYPaddleCacher]

I've seen printed paper encased in epoxy resin. The optical characteristics of the resin aren't very good though. The printing will need to be relatively large to remain legible.

 

So have I. I've built a couple of wood kayaks and the question of encasing artwork within the epoxy on wooden kayaks comes up fairly often on boat building forums. Take look at some of the results here.

 

Edited to add a good example of printing on rice paper to create a decal

 

 

Edited May 7, 2014 by NYPaddleCacher