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The "I'm a horrible friend" b-day cointest!


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Cool recipe! I knew that kudzu was a problem plant in the southeast, had no idea it was edible!


Solan IS a vegetarian, so she might appreciate the recipe :lol:


Ok, it's 12:36 am here, ni-nite time for me :huh:


You guys keep guessing, I'll check in in the morning!


Oh, and there is a proper color guess somewhere in here, just not the right flower :lol:



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chamomilely colored (yellowish) chamomiles


Soothing Bath Tea Recipe


1/2 cup sea or Epson salt

2 tablespoons Chamomile or Green tea

1/4 cup dried rosemary or sage

1/2 cup dried flower petals

2 tablespoons dried lemon or orange peel (homemade or available in spice section of your supermarket)


Combine all ingredients. Divide mixture into small muslin bags or 6 inch squares of cheesecloth; tie with string or cord.


Tie small labels into the string.

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pink plumeria


Flower Drum Song is a musical written by the team of Rodgers and Hammerstein, based on the 1957 novel of the same name by Chinese American author C. Y. Lee. The Broadway production opened in 1958 featuring, for the first time in Broadway history, a mostly Asian cast. The musical was successful (as the novel had been), garnering six Tony Award nominations and spawning a London production, national tours and a 1961 musical film, but the musical and movie would fall out of favor as the civil rights era re-defined how minorities should be portrayed on film

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white elder flower




* 10 - 12 elder flowers

* 1 lemon

* 1kg of sugar

* 8-9l of water

* 1 tbs of dried leaven


How to make Socata (elder flowers wine)


* mix 8-9l of water with the flowers, the lemon cut in 16 pieces, lemon juice, sugar and leaven, cover and wait ...


* for 3 - 6 days


* using a wooden spoon mix the ingredients twice a day, taste

* remove the lemon the next day in order to avoid a bitter taste


in function of how much time you let it rest more or less alcohol will get formed


* it can either become a refreshing, sparkling drink (after 2-3 days) or a refreshing, mild alcoholic drink (after 5-6 days)

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blue baby's breath





There are several good methods for pressing flowers. We'll cover some of the basics here.


Flower Preparation - For best results make sure you pick your flowers at their freshest and press when there is no moisture on them. It's very important to properly condition your flowers if you don't press them immediately upon picking them. I normally condition them regardless of how soon I'm able to press or dry my flowers. The colors are better when you take this extra step.


When preparing the flower for pressing some thought should be given as to how it will look when flattened. Avoid allowing parts to overlap unless for artistic effect. Leaves should normally be laid out flat.


Pressing Flowers in Books - Place flower between 2 sheets of paper to protect the pages of the book. Leave at least 1/8" of pages between pressings, weigh the book down and wait a couple of weeks.


You can put the book with flowers and paper in the microwave and zap in short bursts, (30 seconds to a minute at a time, checking between to see if they're done.) Repeat until almost done, then put in a another book or press to finish.


I have an old set of encyclopedia Britannica that I picked up at a garage sale for under $10 that I use for pressing. They look better than phone books and you come across some pretty interesting info as you press.


Flower Presses - You can buy a flower press or make your own. Personally, I prefer a botanical flower press because it allows greater air circulation. It would be hard to make your own though, unless you're good with wood-working.


To make a simple wooden press: Cut 2 boards, hold them together with a long bolt and wing nut in each corner. Cut pieces of cardboard and blotting paper (or newsprint) to fit between the boards, and layer it; Wood, cardboard, blotting paper, plain white paper, flower, plain white paper, blotting paper, cardboard, then repeat your layers etc. Place the other piece of wood on top and tighten the wing nuts. Your color retention will be greatly improved if you put the flowers between sheets of paper and then change just the blotter at least every couple of days. The flowers will turn brown if they don't dry quick enough.


Microwave Pressing - For best results you can use a microwave flower press that has been designed specifically for the purpose. I prefer this press because it allows greater air circulation.


When pressing in the microwave, be careful not to over do it. Start out with short bursts at a medium setting, perhaps 30-60 seconds, then experiment with the timing. Let the plant material cool between zaps. I open the press to let the steam escape while cooling, then repeat until almost dry. To save time, consider working with 2 presses, just zap one while the other cools and alternate.


While still in the paper, place your flowers in a book or flower press to finish pressing. This normally takes anywhere from a few hours to a day depending on the particular flower.


The Microfleur press is very good too, especially for very thin flowers; you can get one from Pat Smith at Sonshine Crafts...email her for details.


To make a simple microwave press: Use regular ceramic tiles, with rubber bands to keep the whole thing together. I've tried a lot of materials for the padding and what worked best for me is plain old paper toweling as padding, with the flowers placed between two pieces of regular paper, like you'd use in a printer. It's important to put the flowers between printer paper so they don't pick up any texture your paper toweling may have.


I've also substituted coffee filters for the paper with very good results, especially when the flower isn't completely flat, such as roses. The coffee filters aren't as stiff as computer paper so the flowers come out much nicer.


An even simpler way to press in the microwave is to substitute corrugated cardboard for the ceramic tiles in the instructions above. Try it! It works and will give you a feel for if you like like using the microwave before you spend the time and money for a more permanent microwave press.

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purple wisteria


The symbolic meaning of wisteria flowers is welcome and playful spontaneity. The wisteria is called "Purple Vine" in China. In one cluster, the petals shade harmoniously from the strong, dark purple tip to the soft, light pink at the open base.

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yellow century plant (agave) flower


The earliest fossil of an angiosperm, or flowering plant, Archaefructus liaoningensis, is dated to about 125 million years BP[1]. Pollen, considered directly linked to flower development, has been found in the fossil record perhaps as long ago as 130 million years.

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pink dogwood




This is just a story. I make no claims to support (or not) any religion.


Legend of the Dogwood



At the time of the crucifixion, the dogwood had reached the size of the mighty oak tree. So strong and firm was the wood that it was chosen as the timber for Jesus' cross.


To be used for such a cruel purpose greatly distressed the dogwood. While nailed upon it, Jesus sensed this, and in his compassion said. "Because of your pity for my suffering, never again shall the dogwood tree grow large enough to be used for a cross. Henceforth, it shall be slender, bent, and twisted, and its blossoms shall be in the form of a cross–two long and two short petals.


"In the center of the outer edge of each petal will be the print of nails. In the center of the flower, stained with blood, will be a crown of thorns so that all who see it will remember."

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purple crocus


Storing Tender Bulbs and Bulblike Structures

Mary H. Meyer, Extension Horticulturist

Department of Horticultural Science



Copyright © 2008 Regents of the University of Minnesota. All rights reserved.


Plants with tender bulbs, corms, tubers, and roots are valuable additions for the home gardener to use in the perennial border, cutting garden, or as bedding plants. Because of their tender nature these plants require special attention, but will be rewarding if given the special treatment they deserve and require. What is a tender bulb? The term "tender bulb" refers to plants which have fleshy storage structures (bulbs, corms, tubers, and roots) which are killed by the cold Minnesota winters if not brought indoors. Special protection, such as digging and bringing the fleshy storage structure into a warmer area for storage through the winter months is required.


Most tender materials should be dug after the foliage dries up or is killed by frost. An exception to this is Hymenocallis (ismene or Peruvian daffodil), which should be dug before frost damages the plant.


DIG CAREFULLY--For all structures such as dahlias, cannas, and other materials, it is important to loosen the roots gently with a fork or spade, digging several inches back from the base of the plants so that the roots are not cut off unnecessarily. With dahlias or other large plants, loosen the soil on all sides of the plant before lifting the clump of roots and soil. In all cases, avoid cutting, breaking, or "skinning" the fleshy structure. Diseases enter through cuts and bruises very readily and can cause rotting and losses in storage.


CLEANING--Some plants are best washed gently with a hose (e.g., dahlias). One technique that is used by some growers is to put hardware cloth (or a large mesh screen) across the top of a large garbage can and set the clump of dahlias or cannas on the hardware cloth or screen and wash the soil into the garbage can. This eliminates mess and the soil and water can be returned to the garden so it is not completely wasted. Another technique to reuse the soil is to place it on the compost pile. Gladiolus corms are best left unwashed and allowed to dry. After drying, the soil may be gently removed.


CURING--For most species listed, the curing period should be relatively short (e.g., dahlias, cannas, calla, caladium). This short-term curing or drying period should be 1 to 3 days, depending on temperature. It should be done in a room or area away from direct sunlight or drying winds. Long-term curing, for gladiolus, tigridia and oxalis, should be approximately 3 weeks. Then, in the case of gladiolus, the old corm and cormels should be removed. Drying and curing temperatures for such materials should be 60 - 70 degrees in a dry, well-ventilated area.


PEST MANAGEMENT--Before storing corms inspect for insects or diseases. Dust with an insecticide-fungicide mixture labeled for the specific plant.


STORING--It is important to remember to label stored plant material carefully. In the case of gladiolus and similar materials, this is easily handled by placing the corm in a small paper bag which has been properly labeled. Larger materials, like dahlias or canna, can be handled in several ways. One technique that works quite well is to write directly on the fleshy root with a permanent felt marking pen. If this is done on large clumps the cultivar name should be written on several roots rather than on just one, because in storage occasionally a root is broken off of the main clump. "Tree labels" of the wood-and-wire type work very well for labeling. In all cases cultivar name and/or other important identifying characteristics should be written on the label and also recorded in a notebook or in some other way. Many a prized or favorite plant has been lost because of poor labeling.


Figure 1. Storing gladiolus and similar corms.


gladioulus corms image


1. Dry for 2-3 weeks after digging

2. Remove cormels

3. Remove old corm and discard



Remember to periodically check stored bulbs, tubers, and roots during the storage season. Remove any damaged or rotting material. In cases where tuberous roots like dahlias have some rot occurring, cut back until you reach clean white, fleshy tissue again. Remember that these structures are living plants and as such may need attention and care even during their dormant period.

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