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Betterware Stone Cache Disguise


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I dont suppose anyone has seen the Key Hide that is for sale in the latest Betterware book (yes, I know, most of the stuff is absolute junk and not sure why I was even looking).

Anyway, it looks a very cunning disguise and is only £4.99. Not sure what you could get in it or if it is waterproof but you may be bale to get a film container in it which will give you the waterproofing.

Go to www.betterware.com and type in KEY HIDE in the search box at top right.

I may get one myself...

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I dont suppose anyone has seen the Key Hide that is for sale in the latest Betterware book (yes, I know, most of the stuff is absolute junk and not sure why I was even looking).

Anyway, it looks a very cunning disguise and is only £4.99. Not sure what you could get in it or if it is waterproof but you may be bale to get a film container in it which will give you the waterproofing.

Go to www.betterware.com and type in KEY HIDE in the search box at top right.

I may get one myself...

:D I've already used one of these for one of our offset caches ;) The opening closes with a sliding panel which is rather loose.....MrB did some modifications. Unfortunately it got muggled and we found the smashed remains 100 yards away. :D

 

MrsB

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This is messy but easy enough for anyone who's at all usefull with their hands. I strongly suggest rubber gloves though.

But if you go to any car parts shop i.e. Halfords, you can buy a fibreglass body repair kit. Alternatively have a look around for a place locally that uses fibreglass and they might supply you with enough for what you need cheaper.

As a foundation almost anything will do as long as it won't react with the resin, so don't use polystyrene for this.

Firstly create a shape, damp sand is good for this, as you can even bury your stache box in the sand first. You don't need to be too accurate it will change shape later.

Once you have the rough shape you can reinforce it with some chicken wire mesh or anything similar. This is where it will begin to take on the final shape.

When you're ready cover the reinforcing with the fibreglass matting and apply a good coat of resin. You can even mix the resin up, dip the matting in and apply to your pattern a bit like paper mache.

Apply as many coats as you need to make it reasonably strong. For your last coat mix up the resin as before but add some sand/earth/twigs as collected from the cache location and paint this on nice and thick. Once all is dry touch up as needed with some spray paint and you have a very similar looking stone that should blend in well with the intended area.

With a bit of imagination it would even be possible to create a fibreglass tree stump. Now thats a thought!

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I found a cache which was in an artificial rock... but in this case the rock was made from concrete and the 35mm container had been embedded when the concrete was still wet. This looked pretty good and unlike plastic rocks would be less inclined to blow away! I am sure you can buy a whole sack of ready mix concrete for the price of a Betterware plastic rock.

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I found a cache which was in an artificial rock... but in this case the rock was made from concrete and the 35mm container had been embedded when the concrete was still wet. This looked pretty good and unlike plastic rocks would be less inclined to blow away! I am sure you can buy a whole sack of ready mix concrete for the price of a Betterware plastic rock.

Now you've got me thinking! If you made a mould in wet sand and tipped your mix into that - then you could press a container into the wet cement and remove it before it sets rock hard...you'd have a fake rock with a hollow space under it...:o

 

A cunning plan! :o

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I found a cache which was in an artificial rock... but in this case the rock was made from concrete and the 35mm container had been embedded when the concrete was still wet.  This looked pretty good and unlike plastic rocks would be less inclined to blow away!  I am sure you can buy a whole sack of ready mix concrete for the price of a Betterware plastic rock.

Now you've got me thinking! If you made a mould in wet sand and tipped your mix into that - then you could press a container into the wet cement and remove it before it sets rock hard...you'd have a fake rock with a hollow space under it...:o

 

A cunning plan! ;)

What you need is a recipe :o

 

Geoff Hamilton's recipe for rocks

2 parts coir

2 parts sharp sand

1 part fresh cement concrete (neutral for best effect)

water

a sheet of polythene

 

1.Dig an irregularly shaped hole in the ground to be a mould for your rock.

2.Line it with polythene, or plastic sacks with lots of crinkles to create the fissures in the surface of the rock

3.Mix the ingredients together to a porridgey consistency, pour into the hole. Wait until thoroughly dry - about 3 days, depending on the weather.

4.Lift out the rock and move to desired site.

5.Paint with yoghurt or liquid manure to encourage weathering.

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What you need is a recipe :o

 

Geoff Hamilton's recipe for rocks

This is pretty much the method I used in passed to make a micro-rocks. I used a modified shotgun cartridge as container.

 

My method varied in that I hard compacted the soil of the irregular hole instead of having to use a liner of polythene. That way the 'rock' surface took on some of the soil texture (and some of the soil itself for extra disguise).

 

My mix varied as I used a basic concrete mix but included soil and moss which results in good texture and colour. This mix is represented in some gardening books for making look-a-like stone bath planters...it has a special name *?shrug?*.

 

I only produced fist sized rocks so was able to handle them within a day and take them to a better place to set nicely.

 

Never had much success with the yogurt or manure trick as we have tried this many times on concrete gargoyles.

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Another recipe is

1 part cement

2 parts builders sand

4 parts peat

Mix to a stiff consistency and mould it around whatever you want to cover.

If you want it to stick to the object then paint it with PVA (Unibond) type adhesive.

Once it's dry paint it with sour milk and leave it 6 months it will look 10 years old with the lichen etc.

I used to use this for covering old china butler sinks to make them look lile stone ones.

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