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How do I get a clear picture of my GPSr?

EliJoMikMiNi
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EliJoMikMiNi

+EliJoMikMiNi

Posted
Posted

Let me start by saying I did a search first in the forums for any reference to "gps" and "pictures". Didnt find the answer so here I am asking for help.

When I take a picture of my etrex to try to show that it has 0.00 out at the cache site all I get (9 out of 10 times) is my hand holding the etrex and blurry numbers. Needless to say i am wasting alot of film. It's just a 35mm camera. Haven't gone to digital yet. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

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st_richardson

+st_richardson

Posted
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by EliJoMikMiNi:

...When I take a picture of my etrex to try to show that it has 0.00 out at the cache site all I get (9 out of 10 times) is my hand holding the etrex and blurry numbers. Needless to say i am wasting alot of film. It's just a 35mm camera. Haven't gone to digital yet. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

Till you go digital icon_smile.gif ,set the etrex down. Use a small portable tripod.

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st_richardson

+st_richardson

Posted
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by EliJoMikMiNi:

...When I take a picture of my etrex to try to show that it has 0.00 out at the cache site all I get (9 out of 10 times) is my hand holding the etrex and blurry numbers. Needless to say i am wasting alot of film. It's just a 35mm camera. Haven't gone to digital yet. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

Till you go digital icon_smile.gif ,set the etrex down. Use a small portable tripod.

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MadGPS

MadGPS

Posted
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by EliJoMikMiNi:

Let me start by saying I did a search first in the forums for any reference to "gps" and "pictures". Didnt find the answer so here I am asking for help.

When I take a picture of my etrex to try to show that it has 0.00 out at the cache site all I get (9 out of 10 times) is my hand holding the etrex and blurry numbers. Needless to say i am wasting alot of film. It's just a 35mm camera. Haven't gone to digital yet. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

EliJoMikMiNi

 

I had that problem and found the cure,make the jump,go digital.Get something no lest then 640x480 pixels and you'll be OK for geocaching.I got one on eBay for dirt cheap{$34.ºº} at the beginning of FEB and never look back.It had the programm for downloading and tweak the photos,ac adapter,serial cable.Largan 350 mini.Fits in my pocket shirt.

 

MadGPS icon_biggrin.gif

 

[This message was edited by MadGPS on March 28, 2002 at 08:56 PM.]

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MadGPS

MadGPS

Posted
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by EliJoMikMiNi:

Let me start by saying I did a search first in the forums for any reference to "gps" and "pictures". Didnt find the answer so here I am asking for help.

When I take a picture of my etrex to try to show that it has 0.00 out at the cache site all I get (9 out of 10 times) is my hand holding the etrex and blurry numbers. Needless to say i am wasting alot of film. It's just a 35mm camera. Haven't gone to digital yet. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

EliJoMikMiNi

 

I had that problem and found the cure,make the jump,go digital.Get something no lest then 640x480 pixels and you'll be OK for geocaching.I got one on eBay for dirt cheap{$34.ºº} at the beginning of FEB and never look back.It had the programm for downloading and tweak the photos,ac adapter,serial cable.Largan 350 mini.Fits in my pocket shirt.

 

MadGPS icon_biggrin.gif

 

[This message was edited by MadGPS on March 28, 2002 at 08:56 PM.]

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Jamie Z

+Jamie Z

Posted
Posted

Digital? No, no, no... film is just fine.

 

EliJo, what kind of camera are you shooting? I'm guessing it's a point-and-shoot model, rather than an SLR. (i.e. can you interchange lenses?)

 

Also, it sounds like you're shooting the picture yourself while holding the GPS in the other hand, right?

 

Of course, there are more experienced photographers out there, but I'll offer a few suggestions.

 

There are a couple of problems to address. For one, minimum focusing distance. If you are in bright sunlight, try this: if you can manually adjust your aperture (or f-stop), change it so that it's the largest number your camera has. (probably f22, f28, f32) If you cannot manually adjust the aperture, but you have program modes (i.e. portrait, still life, action/sports, and scenery) set the mode to scenery (it usually has a symbol consisting of mountains).

 

Changing the aperture does not alter the minimum focusing distance, but by increasing the aperture ratio, the field of view is increased. That is, more of the picture will be in focus.

If you are in not-so-sunny conditions, I would not recommend moving the aperture to anything more than f16.

 

Use higher speed film. ASA400 or ASA800 will allow your camera to use faster shutter speeds, fixing any blur caused by camera shake. Also, if you aren't shooting in bright conditions, using ASA400 or ASA800 speed film will allow you to use higher f-stops.

 

If your camera has a zoom, pull the zoom all the way back, do not zoom in on your GPS.

 

Make sure your GPS is not reflecting the sun, or other light toward your camera, which will obscure the numbers as well.

 

Before you spend several hundred bucks on a camera that you don't need... try these suggestions out. I'm guessing your pictures will come out fine.

 

If you post a sample picture, it will help me (and others) diagnose your problem.

 

Jamie

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Byron & Anne

+Byron & Anne

Posted
Posted

There are two problems causing the blury pictures.

 

First. The distance between the camera lens and the GPS is probably less than the minimum focal distance. If it's a point and shoot without any focusing abilities the minimum distance is usually around 4 ft. Cameras that have focusing abilities can usually get to around 18" without macro abilities. With macro you can get much closer and still be able to focus the camera.

 

Second. This is just as important, but probably not your main cause of blur. The camera and the object need to be moving at the same speed in the same direction when the shutter is released. For most subjects zero speed is a good number. You can take a picture of something in a moving car, for example, and have it clear and the background, through the window blured.

 

Hope this clears things up a bit.

 

7301_400.jpg

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3fros

3fros

Posted
Posted

A lot of automatic camera have a closeup mode (usually the flower icon). Perhaps you just need to set your camera to that mode.

 

I have a Kodak DC5000 Digital camera and really like it. It does eat batteries, but I bought a gazillion pack at costco, so they don't cost very much. The camera was around $300 (a while ago) and I bought a 128mb compact flash card for it from costco for about $60 (They're $55 now). With the 128mb card I can take about 206 pictures on highest resolution, best mode; 581 pictures on standard resolution, best mode; and 1579 on standard resolution, good mode. If the card gets full, I can download them to the computer, write them to a CD or whatever, and just take more. I bought it also because I was tired of buying film, paying for processing, waiting for processing, having to keep negatives and not scratch them (which will still deteriorate over time). The only thing I don't like about my camera is that it only saves in JPG mode. I kind of wish it would save as TIF for lossless re-saves, but I can always save it as a TIF from the original and then have lossless re-saves.

 

Another camera I like that came out recently is the Nikon Coolpix 5000 ($1000)

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Glenn

+Glenn

Posted
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by 3fros:

A lot of automatic camera have a closeup mode (usually the flower icon). Perhaps you just need to set your camera to that mode.

 

Most camera manufacturers call it MACRO mode. Point and shoot cameras don't have it. You need to be able to focus the camera or the camera need to be able to focus itself (not fixed focus).

 

An arms length just isn't quite enough. Try sitting the GPS down and take a step back.

 

Try to shoot in as much sunlight as you can. This will cut down on the blurring. I beleive point and shoot type cameras have fixed F-shops (how wide the lens is open, or how much light it lets in) it adjusts the shutter speed (how long the lens stays open, how long it lets light in) to get the proper exposure. Anything under 1/60th of a second and you WILL get blurring unless you steady yourself very well or use a tripod. Since it is very hard to tell at what shutter speed the camera is taking the picture at you will want to stand very still and try to find a posistion that will put as much light as possable on what your taking a picture of.

 

GPS screens are very reflective (in case you haven't noticed icon_wink.gif ). If you can shoot without the flash then do so. But if you just can't then try to angle the GPS so that it isn't pointing at the camera but you are still able to see the screen. It will reflect the flash and you won't be able to see a portion of the screen.

 

Also note on most point and shoot camera you are NOT looking though the lens. Because you are shooting so close to your subject you will need to adjust for this or you might not get everything you wanted in the picture.

 

- Lone Rangers

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Glenn

+Glenn

Posted
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by 3fros:

A lot of automatic camera have a closeup mode (usually the flower icon). Perhaps you just need to set your camera to that mode.

 

Most camera manufacturers call it MACRO mode. Point and shoot cameras don't have it. You need to be able to focus the camera or the camera need to be able to focus itself (not fixed focus).

 

An arms length just isn't quite enough. Try sitting the GPS down and take a step back.

 

Try to shoot in as much sunlight as you can. This will cut down on the blurring. I beleive point and shoot type cameras have fixed F-shops (how wide the lens is open, or how much light it lets in) it adjusts the shutter speed (how long the lens stays open, how long it lets light in) to get the proper exposure. Anything under 1/60th of a second and you WILL get blurring unless you steady yourself very well or use a tripod. Since it is very hard to tell at what shutter speed the camera is taking the picture at you will want to stand very still and try to find a posistion that will put as much light as possable on what your taking a picture of.

 

GPS screens are very reflective (in case you haven't noticed icon_wink.gif ). If you can shoot without the flash then do so. But if you just can't then try to angle the GPS so that it isn't pointing at the camera but you are still able to see the screen. It will reflect the flash and you won't be able to see a portion of the screen.

 

Also note on most point and shoot camera you are NOT looking though the lens. Because you are shooting so close to your subject you will need to adjust for this or you might not get everything you wanted in the picture.

 

- Lone Rangers

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rdw

+rdw

Posted
Posted

Jamie Z and the Lone Rangers have given some pretty good advice, but I'll add my thoughts anyway.

 

1. You do not need a digital camera. A decent film camera will work.

 

2. The key is to find the minimum focal length of the camera. This could be less than arm length in macro mode to several feet without it. Scan the manual for this number.

 

3. If you have a macro mode, use it. This is the type of application macro is made for.

 

4. Try to minimize reflections, which is admittedly difficult. Tilt the GPS up or down and to the left or right from the camera. Try to have the sun shining on the screen or use the backlight while taking the picture. This helps the data on the screen show up clearly.

 

5. Play around with it. You will eventually find something that works.

 

rdw

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OFF RODE

OFF RODE

Posted
Posted

As an alternative...if this is a one shot thing, pack a laptop along with Easy GPS loaded and do a screen capture, change it to a .jpg file, put it on a floppy and have it developed as a print....but of course youd need a laptop and a digital camera would cost much less.

 

"You've got to be very careful if you don't know where you're going, because you might not get there." Yogi Berra

JeepNAz@aol.com

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mookie

+mookie

Posted
Posted

A lot of good suggestions so far, but I’ll add my thoughts. Buying a digital camera will not cure the problem just because it’s digital. It can help though if it has a preview/review screen. I’m a long time user of 35mm equipment but I recently bought a digital camera just so I could skip the scanning process to get photos onto my computer. But I have found that preview/review screen to be a nice bonus.

 

The review screen on the camera is great because you know instantly whether the photo is ok or not. I do the same thing as EliJoMikMiNi, I take a photo of my gpsr in my hand above the cache just to see how close it read for every cache. With my point and shoot digital camera the only thing I do is “force” the flash to fire even if the camera “thinks” there is enough light. This helps to capture a readable gpsr reading in my slightly moving hand. The only potential problem with this is the flash can cause glare on the gpsr screen, making it unreadable. This is where the review screen comes in handy on the digital camera. If I see the screen is not readable, I simply twist the gpsr slightly and try again.

 

The available light in the woods is often not nearly enough to take close up photos without flash. So if you are sticking with 35mm either use fast film (as others suggested, 400-800 speed) or use a flash. Many point-and-shoot cameras (this goes for either 35mm or digital) allow the user to “force” the flash to fire, read your camera manual if you’re not sure. Someone else suggested a tripod. That also would work if you don’t mind carrying it with you. Try these suggestions out and if you’re sticking with 35mm, shoot a couple of frames to make sure you have at least one that is usable. Film is relatively cheap.

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Jamie Z

+Jamie Z

Posted
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by Lone Rangers:

I beleive point and shoot type cameras have fixed F-shops (how wide the lens is open, or how much light it lets in) it adjusts the shutter speed (how long the lens stays open, how long it lets light in) to get the proper exposure.

 

Admittedly, I have very little experience with point-and-shoots, but I used one a while back for about a month when my real camera was stolen during a trip.

 

I seem to recall the spec sheet saying that the aperture was automatically adjusted, as well as the shutter speed. It was a small aperture range (8-22 or somthing) but it was something. It was just a cheapo ($60) I got at walmart in a pinch.

 

From my recollection, the aperture was not manually adjustable, but adjusted according to the lighting conditions and the mode the camera was set.

 

Jamie

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Man In The Wild

+Man In The Wild

Posted
Posted

I'll try to help you guys help her... she's using an Advantix point and shoot camera. I don't think it has the different sport, etc. settings. I'm sure she'll give more details later. I'm using a similar 35mm camera and I haven't even tried taking close ups of the GPS because of the problems she's had. I'll have to try soon. I really like the digital's ability to review the pic immediately so you know if it needs to be redone before you leave.

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EliJoMikMiNi

+EliJoMikMiNi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by Man In The Wild:

I'll try to help you guys help her... she's using an Advantix point and shoot camera.

 

That's what kind of camera I have alrighty. I've gotten one good pic. of the etrex with it and that was when I set it against a house and stepped back to shoot it. Very clear. So I would guess my arms are too short and maybe I can't stand still enough.

 

Must be time for an upgrade or I should quit trying to get those etrex shots.?!

 

Now... the question should be... which digital camera. I don't want to spend alot, but I would like decent pics. Thanks.

Eli

 

The harder you work,the harder it is to give up.

Vince Lombarde

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geospotter

+geospotter

Posted
Posted

Try putting the GPS on the ground at the base of a tree or other solid object, place the camera (or your body) against the tree and take the shot. This might get it far enough away to be in focus, but close enough to read the digits.

 

If there is nothing else around -- place the GPS on the ground, get ready to take the picture, and tuck your elbows into your body. Finally, when you push the shutter release MOVE ONLY THE BUTTON not the whole camera. Often when people take photos the whole right side of the camera dips when they push the button.

 

One other tip. Put your left hand UNDER the camera to help steady it.

 

Give these a shot. And DITTO on the NiMH batteries for digital cameras.

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vagabond

vagabond

Posted
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by 3fros:

A lot of automatic camera have a closeup mode (usually the flower icon). Perhaps you just need to set your camera to that mode.

 

I have a Kodak DC5000 Digital camera and really like it. It does eat batteries, but I bought a gazillion pack at costco, so they don't cost very much. The camera was around $300 (a while ago) and I bought a 128mb compact flash card for it from costco for about $60 (They're $55 now). With the 128mb card I can take about 206 pictures on highest resolution, best mode; 581 pictures on standard resolution, best mode; and 1579 on standard resolution, good mode. If the card gets full, I can download them to the computer, write them to a CD or whatever, and just take more. I bought it also because I was tired of buying film, paying for processing, waiting for processing, having to keep negatives and not scratch them (which will still deteriorate over time). The only thing I don't like about my camera is that it only saves in JPG mode. I kind of wish it would save as TIF for lossless re-saves, but I can always save it as a TIF from the original and then have lossless re-saves.

 

Another camera I like that came out recently is the Nikon Coolpix 5000 ($1000)

 

Try IRFAN its a free program and you can change to just about any format you want for your pics, plus a lot of other things like resizing the pic icon_wink.gif

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vagabond

vagabond

Posted
Posted

quote:
Originally posted by 3fros:

A lot of automatic camera have a closeup mode (usually the flower icon). Perhaps you just need to set your camera to that mode.

 

I have a Kodak DC5000 Digital camera and really like it. It does eat batteries, but I bought a gazillion pack at costco, so they don't cost very much. The camera was around $300 (a while ago) and I bought a 128mb compact flash card for it from costco for about $60 (They're $55 now). With the 128mb card I can take about 206 pictures on highest resolution, best mode; 581 pictures on standard resolution, best mode; and 1579 on standard resolution, good mode. If the card gets full, I can download them to the computer, write them to a CD or whatever, and just take more. I bought it also because I was tired of buying film, paying for processing, waiting for processing, having to keep negatives and not scratch them (which will still deteriorate over time). The only thing I don't like about my camera is that it only saves in JPG mode. I kind of wish it would save as TIF for lossless re-saves, but I can always save it as a TIF from the original and then have lossless re-saves.

 

Another camera I like that came out recently is the Nikon Coolpix 5000 ($1000)

 

Try IRFAN its a free program and you can change to just about any format you want for your pics, plus a lot of other things like resizing the pic icon_wink.gif

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