[MTB]_Intrepid Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I bought a couple of small plastic ammo boxes that are waterproof but gawdawful shades of red and yellow. Has anyone used Fusion spraypaint on plastic cache-tainers? It would be a lot easier than camo tape but I'm wondering how it will hold up to the elements. Cheers. Link to comment
+Two Geeks and a GPS Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Used on our patio table.....3 years and running. Good stuff. Link to comment
+briansnat Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Where'd you find it? I've been looking for it to use on my Lock 'n Lock containers. Link to comment
+planetrobert Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 my luck was so so Link to comment
+shwnstr Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I've used it alot. It works really well on most plastics, but don't try it on rubbery or vinyl like what's on plier handles for example, It never dries in soft plastics. I know ACE sells it. I'm pretty sure you can find it at just about any hardware store. Try it . I think you'll like it. Link to comment
+NightPilot Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I used it on a set of patio chairs, that had originally been white and were badly discolored. It's still holding up after a couple of years. A few white scratches, where the chair was scratched into the plastic, but that's not the fault of the paint. It should be available just about anywhere spray paint is sold. I know Wally World has it, and most hardware stores. Link to comment
SilverLynx Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Remember to scuff the surface with fine sand paper, steel wool, or Copper scrubby for pots and pans. The paint will have an easier time sticking to the surface, in my experience. Lynx Link to comment
+Mule Ears Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I've used it on neoprene pipe-insulation jacket in an outdoor location. It's held up very well for a couple of years now. So it resists the elements--don't know how it would fare with a lot of handling. Link to comment
adampierson Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 The stuff works great - provided the surface is just right. The stuff literally bonds itself to the plastic in most cases. Tupperware lids, however don't seem to do quite as well - I suspect it's the material and the lid gets the most wear and tear that is the cause of this. Link to comment
+Medic005 Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Rustoleum make a similar product called "Paint for Plastic", I've used it on plastic lawn chairs and it works good. Here's a link: Paint for Plastic Link to comment
[MTB]_Intrepid Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll try the Fusion on my fine Chinese plastic. Hopefully it won't chemically react and spontaneously combust. Link to comment
+jerryme Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I've had good sucess with the new plastic primers now on the market. I recommend, scuffing the plastic well with sandpaper, using the plastic primer and then the camo paint. I've had best sucess with hard plastics like PVC over more flexible stuff like rubbermaid. Just my $.02. Link to comment
+Gorak Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I've had pretty good luck with Krylon Camo paint on well sanded Lock & Lock containers. Sanding has to be done quite carefully to ensure you get all painted surfaces, though and is quite time consuming. Has anyone tried sand blasting the plastic containers as an alternative to sanding? Link to comment
+Stunod Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I've had pretty good luck with Krylon Camo paint on well sanded Lock & Lock containers. Sanding has to be done quite carefully to ensure you get all painted surfaces, though and is quite time consuming. Has anyone tried sand blasting the plastic containers as an alternative to sanding? I use a chemical "de-glosser" available in the paint department. It lightly etches the surface and removes any oils that would keep the paint from sticking. Link to comment
+NightPilot Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I don't know about plastic containers, but I brought in a guy from offshore the other night who had sandblasted his face. Using sand under high pressure is not a recommended technique for removing dead skin, because it's very easy to remove live skin. If you're sandblasting, always remember to insure, very carefully, that all the pressure is gone before you do anything with the equipment. Link to comment
+GSVNoFixedAbode Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 From threads many moons ago... It's all to do with the wax surface of the plastic iePP recycle code "5" and PE recycle code "4"- have a waxy surface that needs to be removed. Note: they are inherently waxy - and after surface treating the wax will work it's way back to the surface eventually. PVC - recycle code "3" can be coated with a Metal Primer to get good adhesion. Works on Marley guttering and downpipes etc. PET - recycle code "1" can be sanded or washed with an etching primer. If the container is Polypropylene or Polyethylene it would be easier to lightly flame the surface with a blow torch to remove the wax surface - it's the accepted commercial method before printing containers. A bit of experimenting with a big yellow flame passed quickly over the surface should do. Stopping in one spot is not recommended. Now, everyone, in a BIG voice... F L A M E ! ! Link to comment
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