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Typical/standard Length Of Hiking Staff?


4x4van

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Hey everybody, I'm gonna make a couple of hiking staffs for myself and my son. My plan is to use lightweight aluminum tubing with a rubber grip, wrist strap, and replaceable wooden tip (don't worry, got all those logistics worked out), but I want your input on one final point: Height.

 

Is there a standard measurement that most use? I'm thinking the optimum overall height should be somewhere between the elbow and the shoulder level of the person using it, but I'm curious as to your opinions on this. Anybody want to let me know where your own staff comes up to on you, and then comment on whether you wish it was taller/shorter, or just right?

Edited by 4x4van
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I don't have a hiking staff, but my office staff is 3 secretaries, two gophers, and the mail room kid.

I took all my staff out GeoTeaming last month. (really) I guess that means I already have a geocaching staff.

 

Ok, I'll really go away this time...

 

___________

Gorak

Geo 60

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I would imagine the desired height of the walking stick is going to be dictated by the preference of the user. So, you and your son should test out different length of sticks on different hikes and determine what height you like the best prior to the creation of the final products.

 

Scientific method.

Dang, and here all this time I was judging mine by the phase of the moon, as we all know we get taller during full moons......

 

:huh:

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It should be long enough to reach the ground. :huh:

 

Sorry, I was bored. I'll go away now...

 

____________

Gorak

Geo 39AL 34

Too funny!!!

 

Actualy the length is up to the individual. I usually reccomend shoulder height. The grip is what is important. Make it as long or as short as you want as long as you put the grip where it is comfortable. Most people find this to be about 6 inches above the elbow.

 

El Diablo

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Try Target, they have trekking poles.  They are aluminum, adjustable in height and have rubber grips.  I have been using one for about a month now and it has worked great.  When closed it fits in my pack so I can 'wip it out when I need it'.

When a cache comes along,

You must find it.

 

Only problem is,

You have to hike it.

 

So hit the trail,

With your staff,

Whip it out,

Into shape,

Shape it up,

Get straight,

Go forward,

Move ahead,

Try to detect it,

Its not too late.

 

Hey, its Friday - OK?

Edited by astheravenflies
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One more reason to avoid REI.

I'm sorry, clue me in.....what is REI?

REI stands for Recreational Equipment Incorporated. It was started in Seattle in 1938 by a few mountaineers looking to get quality mountaineering equipment for reasonable prices. At that time, there was a dearth of quality mountaining equipment in the States. All the good stuff was made in Europe. REI started as a cooperative and ostensibly still is. When I joined the REI coop in 1973, there were only a few stores, mostly in the Pacific Northwest. They still had pretty good stuff for a reasonable price back then. Over the years they expanded stores and started carrying casual clothing and other goofy stuff. They have stores in just about every major city now. They carry great quality equipment but its pricey. They're really the Gucci of outdoor stores (well, maybe North Face is more so). If you shop around on the internet or stores here in Seattle like Outdoor & More, you can come away with some good stuff at a great price. Try finding hiking staffs or trekking poles at REI for under $50, even on sale. Viva Target!

Edited by astheravenflies
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Speaking of hiking staffs, my mother purchased one for me at a "Renaissance Festival", which was held in Charlotte, NC.

 

It is a "lodgepole burned", as I assume that is the name or style of the staff.

 

It measures approximately 51 1/2", and weighs roughly 10 to 12 ounces. It is really sturdy considering it's light weight, and very conforming to the hand regardless where you hold it.

 

My mother never would tell me how much she spent for it, so I'm asking you all instead of inquiring at the place of origin. I'm curious how much this item put her back. All in all, it is a beautiful piece, and it is a jewel on those "specific" hikes.

 

Here is the address and phone number just in case someone wants to find out more (I'm in hopes this doesn't run into a conflict with the ones sold on GC.com, if so, my apologies).

 

Staffs by Gust

P.O. Box 327

Cotopaxi, Colorado 81223

 

719-942-4616

 

48511_6000.JPG

Edited by opey one
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If I recall correctly the Boy Scouts of America official hiking stick length is 6 feet long.  For anyone.  I could be wrong.

The sticks that I have from the BSA shop are about five feet. However, it all depends on your height, and what is comfortable. Also if the user is still growing. Make the length long enough for as tall as you think the user will be in the next few years (your son won't want to outgrow something that dad made!) Then adjust the height of the grip so that it is comfortabe when walking a relatively flat trail, but be generous with the span of the grip. The stick should be taller than the grip so that it will still be useful going downhill. A wrist strap has saved my stick many times. The strap on one of mine is long enough that I can put my hand on the top of the stick to navigate down steep terain. When climbing up rocks the strap comes in handy. You can dangle the stick while using both hands to grip the rocks or whatever you are climbing.

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Lots of great info here, guys, thanks. I've seen and considered the "break-down" style a number of times, and have been using a wooden one (found a nice piece of wood on a prior cache hunt), but get a keen sense of satisfaction out of making stuff myself, if possible, and particularly like working with aluminum.

 

I ended up making mine out of 7/8" diameter 1/16" wall aluminum, with a 5" long section of 3/4" wooden dowell mounted in the end (3 1/2" inside, 1 1/2" out) as a replaceable tip. The height is such that the middle of the grip is about midway between my elbow and my shoulder. For a grip, I used some neoprene wetsuit material, glued on, and added a black plastic cap in the top. A hole and a small rubber grommet below the grip with a looped nylon cord knotted inside serves as the wrist strap.

My son's is an identical design, but using 3/4" diameter tubing and 5/8" dowell for the tip. It is simply a scaled-down "clone" of mine, if you will.

 

We've used them several times now, and they work great. Strong, light, and pretty good looking to boot! Thanks for all the good info.

 

BTW, gretal 3994, although I used neoprene for my grip, depending on the diameter of the staff, bicycle, motorcycle, or jet ski grips would also work well. If the neoprene ends up not holding up, that's the route I'll go as a replacement. They are tough, can be purchased in a multitude of colors and styles, and are resonably inexpensive. 7/8" diameter is perfect for m/c grips, although a smaller pole could be built up with something for the grip to fit as well.

Edited by 4x4van
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<snip>

 

BTW, gretal 3994, although I used neoprene for my grip, depending on the diameter of the staff, bicycle, motorcycle, or jet ski grips would also work well. If the neoprene ends up not holding up, that's the route I'll go as a replacement. They are tough, can be purchased in a multitude of colors and styles, and are resonably inexpensive. 7/8" diameter is perfect for m/c grips, although a smaller pole could be built up with something for the grip to fit as well.

If you have to re-do the grip, you might consider looking at using cork. You can get pre-made grips from rodbuilding supply places and all you'd have to do is ream it to fit then epoxy it on. take a look here to see what I'm talking about.

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