caches ... what can be used

[stanstrif]

i live in a small town called Purcell,OK and i i think there should be a few more out here. i'm really to broke to buy travel bugs and there are some caches out here that gets shut down w/ weather conditions.i thought about taking like my gas meter and using the numbers on it but didn't know if that would fly for a cache or not.

 

i guess my question is what was the cheapest way someone has made a geo cache?

i would like to start hiding my own lol

[+wimseyguy]

88 cent waterproof matchstick containers from wal mart shouldn't be too tough on the budget. Try to get the green ones though-the orange kinda stick out in most locations.

 

Too funny-I googled waterproof matchstick holders to get an image to post here, and the best option is from an October 2006 forum thread.

Edited February 1, 2010 by wimseyguy

[+StarBrand]

88 cent waterproof matchstick containers from wal mart shouldn't be too tough on the budget. Try to get the green ones though-the orange kinda stick out in most locations.

Yup - but they do take the Krylon fusion flat paint very well - it does add a few bucks.

 

BTW - my own personal advice is to pick a location that you would be proud to show off whether or not a cache was there.

[knowschad]

Instead of trying to be frugal upfront and getting the cheapest container you can find, you should probably be thinking more of the gas you will use driving out to perform cache maintenance on them. Good containers are cheaper in the long haul, and also give the finders a better experience.

[+Touchstone]

I'd say Welcome, but it appears you've been around for some time now.....but Welcome anyway and thanks for considering putting a few caches out for the rest of us

 

Probably the cheapest container I've used has been containers that once had food items in them (e.g. peanut butter, nuts and that sort of thing). You have to clean stuff like that out really well of course, because the smell can attract critters which will make quick work of a container that smells like food.

 

I've also seen folks fashion containers out of apparent refuse. It looks like a bit more work is involved to prep it, but the natural camouflage is pretty amazing (e.g. rust).

 

Then it's only a matter of properly labeling the outside of the container with a sharpy and Voila! You have a brand new cache.

 

Good luck

[+Anno Lynke]

i live in a small town called Purcell,OK and i i think there should be a few more out here. i'm really to broke to buy travel bugs and there are some caches out here that gets shut down w/ weather conditions.i thought about taking like my gas meter and using the numbers on it but didn't know if that would fly for a cache or not.

 

i guess my question is what was the cheapest way someone has made a geo cache?

i would like to start hiding my own lol

 

I am not sure I understand your question.

To make a geocach you need a container preferably waterproof and some paper for a log book.

You hide it and post it on geocaching.com and they assign a number to it

[+wimseyguy]

Sometimes you can combine a desirable location with an 88 cent container.

 

If you are wondering if some random numbers or a historical marker can be used as a geocache the answer is no, not any longer. Those are virtual caches and no new ones will be published at geocaching.com. There are some grandfathered older ones out there, some are great, some not so great.

[stanstrif]

I'd say Welcome, but it appears you've been around for some time now.....but Welcome anyway and thanks for considering putting a few caches out for the rest of us

 

Probably the cheapest container I've used has been containers that once had food items in them (e.g. peanut butter, nuts and that sort of thing). You have to clean stuff like that out really well of course, because the smell can attract critters which will make quick work of a container that smells like food.

 

I've also seen folks fashion containers out of apparent refuse. It looks like a bit more work is involved to prep it, but the natural camouflage is pretty amazing (e.g. rust).

 

Then it's only a matter of properly labeling the outside of the container with a sharpy and Voila! You have a brand new cache.

 

Good luck

 

i didn't even think about that and it's big enough to get a pencil and stuff in there also i knew asking would bring an idea lol

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

Actually, placing cache hides usually do involve some expense.

 

The best containers overall are ammo cans. It is always possible to find a friend or neighbor that has one or two that they aren't really using or maybe don't have a need for. Beg around, even whimper a bit (sometimes is does help ).

 

Those matchstick containers are good. Any decent drugstore has nitro pill containers that are pretty good substitutions for genuine bison tubes.

 

Lock & Lock (REAL L&L) containers can usually be had for ±$3.95. Look through the wrap/container aisles at supermarkets. Sometimes they surprise you and have some! Be leery of those that do not say Lock & Lock.

[+briansnat]

88 cent waterproof matchstick containers from wal mart shouldn't be too tough on the budget. Try to get the green ones though-the orange kinda stick out in most locations.

 

Too funny-I googled waterproof matchstick holders to get an image to post here, and the best option is from an October 2006 forum thread.

 

Hey that is my cache! These do make great micros. Far better than a film canister and camo tape works nicely. Even though film canisters are free, you will certainly spend over 88 cents every time you need to drive there to replace a wet log.

 

Knowschad knows what he is talking about. Spending money on a quality container will save you money and time in the long run.

 

You can buy 8 Lock n Locks for $20. That is barely more than $2.00 a container and Lock n Locks are one of the best containers available.

 

Some people have used old food containers like peanut butter jars and pretzel containers. Unless these are washed out very thoroughly they could be subject to being gnawed through by animals.

 

I can tell you a few NOT to use:

 

coffee cans (plastic or metal)

Chinese/deli food containers

film canisters

butter/margarine tubs

yogurt containers

Gladware and similar throw away storage containers

Altoids tins

cookie tins

prescription pill bottles

Ziploc bags

 

While someone here may claim to have used one of the above with success, it is likely that the cache was not exposed to the elements. If you can shield your cache from the elements then you can get away with nearly anything (but putting it in a plastic garbage bag is not shelding it from the elements).

Edited February 1, 2010 by briansnat

[+Renegade Knight]

...i guess my question is what was the cheapest way someone has made a geo cache?...

 

Cheapest I've seen was someone use used the pringles can when they were done, that or maybe the guy who when he finished with his plastic orange juice container used that. Some folks like to go collect film canisters by the dumptruck load at the local film processing center. They give those away.

 

None of them are good containers but cheap? Yes.

[+mountainman38]

My local Walmart was out of waterproof match containers, so I bought two small L&L containers for $2 each and two cans of ultra-flat camo paint at $3.99 apiece (which will last awhile), and I think I got a pretty good result:

 

 

Tank shown for scale. Tank not to scale.

Edited February 1, 2010 by mountainman38

[+briansnat]

My local Walmart was out of waterproof match containers, so I bought two small L&L containers for $2 each and two cans of ultra-flat camo paint at $3.99 apiece (which will last awhile), and I think I got a pretty good result:

 

 

Tank shown for scale. Tank not to scale.

 

FYI Those are not Lock n Locks. They look like the Sterlite or Rubbermaid ones that WalMart now sells. They aren't as nearly as good as Lock n Locks. I hope you have better luck with yours than I did with mine.

[+mountainman38]

FYI Those are not Lock n Locks. They look like the Sterlite or Rubbermaid ones that WalMart now sells. They aren't as nearly as good as Lock n Locks. I hope you have better luck with yours than I did with mine.

 

I was afraid of that, after seeing the post talking about using "real" L&L's. Guess time will tell on these. I'll try to keep them in dry spots.

[+brslk]

FYI Those are not Lock n Locks. They look like the Sterlite or Rubbermaid ones that WalMart now sells. They aren't as nearly as good as Lock n Locks. I hope you have better luck with yours than I did with mine.

 

I was afraid of that, after seeing the post talking about using "real" L&L's. Guess time will tell on these. I'll try to keep them in dry spots.

 

More importantly. keep them out of the sun. The plastic gets dried out and the flaps break off where they bend.

They should be OK if you keep them from repeatedly getting wet and drying and/or direct sunlight.

[+mountainman38]

More importantly. keep them out of the sun. The plastic gets dried out and the flaps break off where they bend.

They should be OK if you keep them from repeatedly getting wet and drying and/or direct sunlight.

 

Good to know. I plan on making them hard to see, so they will be well covered at least from the sun.

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

More importantly. keep them out of the sun. The plastic gets dried out and the flaps break off where they bend.

They should be OK if you keep them from repeatedly getting wet and drying and/or direct sunlight.

 

Good to know. I plan on making them hard to see, so they will be well covered at least from the sun.

 

Yes, UV rays are bad on these... but in truth, simply USING the tabs contributes greatly to their breaking.

Make plans now for replacement/maintenance.

 

True L&L's are identifiable by the tags on and within them. Also, they do not rely on the flaps clipping over the lip. L&L's have slots cut into the flaps and "ears" that protrude through the flaps when closed. They lock-up with a definite "snap".

 

EDIT: Anything other than Lock & Lock containers are copies, and we all know what copies are like, eh?

Edited February 2, 2010 by Gitchee-Gummee

[stanstrif]

More importantly. keep them out of the sun. The plastic gets dried out and the flaps break off where they bend.

They should be OK if you keep them from repeatedly getting wet and drying and/or direct sunlight.

 

Good to know. I plan on making them hard to see, so they will be well covered at least from the sun.

 

Yes, UV rays are bad on these... but in truth, simply USING the tabs contributes greatly to their breaking.

Make plans now for replacement/maintenance.

 

True L&L's are identifiable by the tags on and within them. Also, they do not rely on the flaps clipping over the lip. L&L's have slots cut into the flaps and "ears" that protrude through the flaps when closed. They lock-up with a definite "snap".

 

EDIT: Anything other than Lock & Lock containers are copies, and we all know what copies are like, eh?

 

found this thought you might be interested

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=L...IwBA#ps-sellers

[+Cachin'Armadillo]

I too am planning to start placing caches soon. May I ask why prescription pill bottles are not suitable? I am a nurse in a nursing home and have access to MANY pill bottles. Now I know the ones with snap on lids are not waterproof, but I have checked and the ones with screw on lids are. The labels have all been removed and they are made of heavy white plastic (mail order meds) or the see through orange plastic (pharmacy). They seem to be as high of quality as the matchstick containers. Was the post saying they are not appropriate referring to the snap on lids? Thanks for any advice!!!

[+Gitchee-Gummee]

I too am planning to start placing caches soon. May I ask why prescription pill bottles are not suitable? I am a nurse in a nursing home and have access to MANY pill bottles. Now I know the ones with snap on lids are not waterproof, but I have checked and the ones with screw on lids are. The labels have all been removed and they are made of heavy white plastic (mail order meds) or the see through orange plastic (pharmacy). They seem to be as high of quality as the matchstick containers. Was the post saying they are not appropriate referring to the snap on lids? Thanks for any advice!!!

 

SOME with screw on lids may be OK. I think that you should line up a series of them and test.

Immerse them deep in water for an extended period of time, and have something inside what would absorb water should it enter.

 

Usually, the screw-top items best suited are those that incorporate a rubber O-ring for a water-tight seal.

A simple screw-top is not usually water-tight in the long run.

[+StarBrand]

I too am planning to start placing caches soon. May I ask why prescription pill bottles are not suitable? I am a nurse in a nursing home and have access to MANY pill bottles. Now I know the ones with snap on lids are not waterproof, but I have checked and the ones with screw on lids are. The labels have all been removed and they are made of heavy white plastic (mail order meds) or the see through orange plastic (pharmacy). They seem to be as high of quality as the matchstick containers. Was the post saying they are not appropriate referring to the snap on lids? Thanks for any advice!!!

Pill bottles are generally not made of a plastic that is UV stabilized. Just a few days out in the sun and the plastic will either get real stiff and crack apart or start degrading. Also - the screw on tops are NOT waterproof at all. Water wicks in slowly through the threads. Try this experiment: place a Kleenex into one of them with the lid on. Place it into a sink on its side and turn on a slow but steady drip onto the bottle. I just about guarantee that the Kleenex will be somewhere between damp and soaked within 12 hours.

[+bittsen]

Not all pill bottles are created equal.

 

The brown clear ones don't have a gasket in the lid. Not good in a damp environment. The white ones with the screw on lids usually have a gasket in the lid so they should work fine.

 

When in doubt, test.