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laying a log?


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i've hollowed out a log which is large enough to hide a small container, i've saved the bark intact which i'm planning to connect with some kind of hinge but i'm not sure how to do it, my options are glue or small screw into the bark but i'm concerned the bark wont be strong enough to take the screws. any advice would be appreciated

 

photo7.jpg

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i've hollowed out a log which is large enough to hide a small container, i've saved the bark intact which i'm planning to connect with some kind of hinge but i'm not sure how to do it, my options are glue or small screw into the bark but i'm concerned the bark wont be strong enough to take the screws. any advice would be appreciated

 

photo7.jpg

 

I've seen it done with screws, and with wooden dowels in pre drilled holes. Never made one though, and I'm not sure about longevity.

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I've seen it done with magnets before. Velcro might be another option.

 

I've seen one done with a hinge and screws, but it didn't look very durable.

 

Velcro may not work very well after it gets wet and dirty. What about putting metal pins in the log that mate with matching holes in the bark piece?

 

This looks very cool and very evil, by the way.

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I've seen it done with magnets before. Velcro might be another option.

 

I've seen one done with a hinge and screws, but it didn't look very durable.

 

Velcro may not work very well after it gets wet and dirty. What about putting metal pins in the log that mate with matching holes in the bark piece?

 

This looks very cool and very evil, by the way.

 

i'm considering the type hinges you see on gates, i think the bark "door" will need re-enforcing as it won't have the required strength for a long life out in the field. whats the best kind of glue and how should i the dry the bark before glueing it?

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I think i'd drill through the bark cover,bolt it with stainless bolt,s with washer's.Fill the holes with bark of the same log kinda ground up like a filler mixed with waterproof glue.Should blend in pretty well.Also i'd drill some drainage holes in the bottom where the container sit's so water cauld drain out if it get's in.One other thing if the log is dryed good I would soak it with thompson's water seal to make it last a bit longer.

Grub54891

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I have located a couple of caches similiar to this and the co had used the little wing type of thing that you see holding a screen on to the older windows in homes. It would screw into the log portion and turn over the cover to keep the cover on. These however were made so that the top of the log was still intact and could lay over the hollowed out hole. These were really fun caches to hunt because I never thought to look into the obvious thing like a solid fallen log amidst other logs. Cachers will have fun with this one.

Edited by dibug
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Cool container. As an alternate method I've seen one that was in a landscaping timber. A hole was excavated into the bottom of the timber, and tiny bungie chords were connected crosswise across the opening. Enough stretch to remove the container and snapped back into place to hold it ( a small lock-n-lock) Could be moded for use on a log. Flatten the "down" side of the log. Looks like its buried slightly (until one picks it up) and you never need to disturb the bark.

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i've hollowed out a log which is large enough to hide a small container, i've saved the bark intact which i'm planning to connect with some kind of hinge but i'm not sure how to do it, my options are glue or small screw into the bark but i'm concerned the bark wont be strong enough to take the screws. any advice would be appreciated

 

photo7.jpg

 

As others have suggested, pegs would be better than a hinge. You will definitely need some support for the bark. Do you have the piece of wood that you cut out which was once attached to the bark? That would be perfect. If you don't, perhaps you could find a similarly sized log from which you could cut a section. I envision it working like a lid with pegs that hold it in place. Titebond III is an excellent wood glue. I highly recommend it.

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Fabric.

 

Cut a piece of burlap big enough to be glued to the entire inside of the lid and to the top of the base, so that the lid and base are nearly touching, and when the lid is closed the fabric is folded in half. Then cut a hold in the burlap on the base side for the cache to drop through. It looks like you've got enough area around the cache hold to glue to.

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Fabric.

 

Cut a piece of burlap big enough to be glued to the entire inside of the lid and to the top of the base, so that the lid and base are nearly touching, and when the lid is closed the fabric is folded in half. Then cut a hold in the burlap on the base side for the cache to drop through. It looks like you've got enough area around the cache hold to glue to.

That would also serve to somewhat reinforce the very weak arch of bark. I see that part as the weakest link in the chain. Printess Caroline was also on the mark with her comment about including the original section of wood, if possible. What hinges you use is moot if that delicate piece of bark breaks up on you.

 

If you do use magnets (probably the best idea, since few hinges that would work on this are really designed for the elements), use weaker ones, not neodymium (rare-earth) magnets, which would be totally not needed and would stress the delicate parts too much.

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I might suggest that you think about possibly consider some sort of reinforcement of the entire bark panel. Maybe in other posts this was touched on slightly but I will say this just to make certain it is said. I have in the past worked with a very similar idea using tree bark as camo of sorts and have found that my history of working with composites have been a very nice asset to improve this sort of thing. If you were to use either polyester or epoxy resin with two to five layers of vale ( a very light weight fiberglass fabric) and one or two woven layers of glass on the back of the bark, and employing the use of magnets placed between the final layer of glass, you would have a very durable object the will stand up to some very hard handling and be easily repaired if needed. Use a bit of thought to ensuring that the glass is also mechanically attached to the bark as well, simply relying on a chemical bonding is ok but to have a mechanical bond secured with a chemical bond is bullet proof.

You can get the resin and glass for only a few dollars at just about any hardware store and a pint of polyester and catalyst/hardner will be enough to do several more future caches.

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Reinforce the bark with fiberglass on the interior then use the burlap hinge method previously mentioned.

Heck use the fiberglass resin to glue the burlap into place.

 

~~~edit~~~

or stop reading one above. XD

 

Being a Boat builder in a previous life. I strongly recommend Epoxy resin over GP or Polyester resin. It sticks to anything. It takes a bit longer to cure.

 

Other than that... the two people above me posted good advice.

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