Best paint for Lock n' Locks

[+tollerdudes]

I would like to camo some lock and locks, but not with spray paint. I want something that I can use with a paintbrush. Any suggestions? (suggestions on how to actually paint the thing, sanding etc are appreciated too!)

[+briansnat]

You will need a primer. The best one I've found so far is American Traditions by Valspar plastic primer. I've tried other plastic primers and this one holds up the best.

 

Before I apply the primer I give the Lock n Lock a good washing using detergent and scrubbing it with a fresh Scotch-Brite. That roughens up the surface nicely.

 

Once you've applied the plastic primer you can use pretty much any paint on top of it.

Edited January 11, 2008 by briansnat

[cliff_hanger]

I would like to camo some lock and locks, but not with spray paint. I want something that I can use with a paintbrush. Any suggestions? (suggestions on how to actually paint the thing, sanding etc are appreciated too!)

 

I mask off a small area on the lid before painting. After painting, I remove the masking tape and tape a label on the INSIDE of the lid so that it shows through the non-painted area of the lid and is protected by the clear plastic.

[+wandererrob]

Krylon Fusion is made specifically for plastics.

 

We did some of those white resin lawn chairs (painted them bright red )a couple years ago and they haven't a nick on them.

[+Bunganator]

I've always found cammo duct tape to work great if thats the effect your going for. I've never liked paint on caches very much since it comes of any container easily and ends up in the woods where curious animals die from eating paints. I'm not sur eit works that way, but in anycase, even if you were going for the noen orange effect, I think duct tape as camo is, thought not perfect, much more reliable.

[+palser]

I've used the krylon fusion also. Great stuff. They have it in several camo colors, olive drab, sand, etc. Can't seem to locate it at Wally World, but NAPA has it and so does our local Sherwin-Williams Paint store.

 

Word of caution. Make sure you wipe down what you are going to paint with rubbing alcohol to remove any oil you have on your hands while handling the l-n-l. Seems like there is a little adhesion problem with any oils/fingerprints I've had on my hands. Seems like the rubbing alcohol worked best. Maybe the directions would tell you more..(who reads directions??)

 

Pretty durable after that. I had some containers out for over 18 months and are holding up well.

[+tollerdudes]

Wow, thanks for all the great replies everyone!

[+team moxiepup]

We've used Krylon fusion as a base coat, before painting with other paints. Ones that wouldn't adhere to the plastic, but will to the fusion. If given a few good coats of polyurethane afterword, flaking shouldn't be a problem.

[+elmuyloco5]

We have used the Fusion paints on a couple of cache containers (after cleaning well) and still have them flake over a short period of time, especially at points that move alot or where the lid connects. I have also used it for other reasons on rubbermaid containers and have not been impressed. I'm really tired of vacuuming up the paint chips they leave behind.

[+NateDawgCC]

Try and find some Duracote, it works better then krylon. If possible LIGHTLY sand the container before rising it off with alcohol, sandblasting would be better. I used this on some paintball gear, check out this paintball forum for more info. http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/archive...hp/t-58755.html

[+Iowa Tom]

I tape plastic and PVC up with camouflaged duct tape (which rapidly fades to a cyan color) then paint the tape with Rust-Oleum camouflage spray paint.

 

As I apply the tape I deliberately add wrinkles. If the paint starts to rub off I have the tape below to help. Yes it may fade to cyan if it gets exposed but the general leaf pattern remains and is a lot better than the plastic it covers.

 

-it