I'm a first time hider... any suggestions for a cache...

[wolfbait]

I am wanting to experement with building a cache... any do's or don't's?

[+Kit Fox]

Here is a great place to start. http://www.todayscacher.com/2006/nov/containers.asp

[+Okiebryan]

I'd recommend that you wait until you have a few more finds...like 25 - before hiding. It might expose you to some other or more creative ways of hiding. Just a recommendation.

[+TheAlabamaRambler]

Wasn't gonna answer since KitFox's link to the BrianSnat article was a fine answer, but it just wouldn't be right for this thread not to have disagreement , so I have to say don't worry about finding a bunch before hiding one!

 

Use your imagination and ingenuity rather than copy what you see others doing!

 

Ed

[wolfbait]

Yeah... I have been trying to get my numbers up but I can't seem to find some of the ones around... bummer

[Clan Riffster]

One of the best articles I've ever read on container types can be viewed here. Thanx BrianSnat!

Other suggestions are a bit more subjective. The Geocaching community is as diverse as they come, with different likes & dislikes from both ends of the spectrum. A general rule that seems to work for everybody is, "Hide what you like". You've found 10 caches in Ohio, a state known for some great hides. Ask yourself, what was it about each hide that gave you the most enjoyment? Was it a stunning location? Clever camo? A kewl write up? Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

 

That being said, now I'll fire up the controversy creator with my entirely personal opinions:

1) A regular beats a small, a small beats a micro, providing the area can support it.

2) If you must hide a micro, stay away from film canisters and hide-a-keys. They are almost universally lame.

3) Patience is a virtue. The more caches you find prior to hiding your first, the better it will be. Experience has incredible value.

4) Read the guidelines. Read the tutorial. Read the guidelines again.

 

Welcome to the insanity!

[+sbell111]

I disagree that film cans and hide-a-keys have to be lame.

 

In my opinion, I good cache has at least one of the following criteria:

• good location
  
• cool container
  
• interesting hide method
  
• great back story
  
• It is nearby when I really want to find a cache
  

[wolfbait]

I have an Idea for a cache... I want to make a box out of wood... do you think that I could somehow make the box water tight

[wolfbait]

anyone? a little help here

[+Cpt.Blackbeard]

I have an Idea for a cache... I want to make a box out of wood... do you think that I could somehow make the box water tight

 

You ever see a waterproof wooden boat?

At work

we have a wooden box on a post next to the fuel tank where we write down on a pad of paper inside it how much fuel we put in our trucks each day. The box is made out of plywood with a sloped plywood roof and painted, nothing else. The pad of paper stays dry in all weather conditions, and with repainting the box will last for many years.

It would never handle submersion, but a properly constructed box made from the right type of wood, properly treated would. Perhaps cyprus or Teek? Been awhile since I read up on the subject.

[nonaeroterraqueous]

A wood box can be made water tight if you coat the inside with latex, but the effectiveness of the seal depends entirely on your craftsmanship. If you must have a wood box, what I would personally recommend is putting a water-tight type of snapware (not all are water-tight) or rubbermaid container inside the box. Also, keep in mind the way wood weathers with time (it may be useful or harmful, depending on the cache).

[wolfbait]

Just wondering... Do you think a layer of duct tape would make it water proof... I picked up a nice roll of camo

Oh and by the way it would be a wood box because thats what I can make... not for looks

Edited November 8, 2006 by wolfbait

[Clan Riffster]

Just my $0.02, a wooden box wouldn't be as watertight as a cache should be. Duct tape is not impermiable, so it might slow down moisture, it certainly won't stop it. How 'bout building a box and putting an ammo can inside? This is similar to something I'm planning, specifically, a faux wood duck nest hinged to allow access to the ammo box, set on the edge of a nasty cypress swamp.

[+Bad_CRC]

since you are asking for opinions, I'll add mine.

 

 

ammo can is the only way to go.

 

film canisters and hideakey containers are always lame.

 

anyone who tells you differently is wrong.

 

[+nickzeke]

The Groundspeak micros are a really good buy, I bought one for A Golden Troll in a Golden Garden . It has worked really well.

[+briansnat]

I have an Idea for a cache... I want to make a box out of wood... do you think that I could somehow make the box water tight

 

 

If you're good at working with wood, it can be done. Most trailhead registers I've seen are made out of wood and the register stays dry. The difference is that the registers are stationary and are designed with the assumption that water will only come from one direction, above. A geocache won't necessarily be replaced right side up all the time and moisture will attack it from all sides, so it will be much harder to keep dry. I'm sure a competent woodworker can make a waterproof wood container.

 

It does seem like a lot of work though, particularly when you can buy a good container for a few bucks.

[+briansnat]

Some other dos and don't:

 

Dos

Do find a good location for your cache. Could be an area of historic, scenic, artistic interest, or perhaps just a curiosity or a pleasant walk. Put some thought into it. Think why you are bringing people to that spot. If its just for the cache, consider someplace else.

 

Do consider possible damage to the area. If you are tearing up the ground while placing it, think of what a few dozen finders will do. Try to hide your cache on durable surfaces where possible.

 

Do get permission if its on private property or if the park system requires it.

 

Do choose a quality container (see the article that was linked to earlier in this thread).

 

Do stock your cache with decent stuff. You don't have to break the bank, but chose a few useful, inexpensive items. If its garbage, throw it in the trash not in the cache.

 

Do hide the cache well enough that it won't be accidently discovered by non geocachers. Try to make your hide as natural looking as possible. A pile of sticks covering a cache near a trail just begs for a curious passerby to investigate.

 

Do clearly label your container as a geocache, provide contact information and include a letter inside explaining what it is.

 

Do respond promptly to reported problems

 

And most important of all - DO read the Guidelines for Listing a Cache. I mean really read them. Don't skim them or ignore them. The 10 minutes it takes you to read the guidelines can save you hours of re-working your cache if its denied.

 

Don'ts

 

Don't leave the cache there if you are no longer interested in taking care of it. If you lose interest, please remove and archive the cache.

 

Don't have thin skin. Not everybody is going to love your cache and some may be critical in their logs. Carefully consider what they are saying in their the logs. If the criticism is warranted, learn from it. If it it isn't, ignore it.

 

Don't delete logs unless they contain profanity, inappropriate photos or blatant, unwanted spoilers.

 

Don't ignore repeated DNFs (unless its supposed to be difficult) or other reported problems.

 

And most important of all - Dont forget to read the Guidelines for Listing a Cache. I mean really read them.

Edited November 8, 2006 by briansnat

[+flyingmoose]

If you think it is good and other people will like it then go for it. The only way to learn how to place a cache is by doing so, I hope you enjoy the experience as I have done so myself.

 

BTW- briansnat advice is very sound and is along the lines that I go by as well.

[GermanSailor]

anyone? a little help here

Hi,

 

paint the box on the outside or better use some varnish. Seal the corners and edges with silicone on the inside.

 

I would still put all the contents in a high quality ZipLoc Bag, probably two of them.

 

You can check how watertight you cache is in your bathtub. Place it there unter the shower for half an hour and see what happens.

 

Use some common sense where to place it. If you are not 100 percent sure that it is absolutely watertight, don't place it under a waterfall. ;-) There are locations out, where it is better protected from the elements, like in a bush or under thick foilage.

 

By the way: There is no such thing as a waterproof wooden boat. They all leak a bit.

 

 

GermanSailor

[+sbell111]

since you are asking for opinions, I'll add mine.

 

 

ammo can is the only way to go.

 

film canisters and hideakey containers are always lame, in my opinion.

 

anyone who tells you differently is wrong, because I am the arbiter of what is acceptable (the decider, if you will).

 

I fixed it for you.

 

Edited November 8, 2006 by sbell111

[Clan Riffster]

I prefered the original.

[+Woodlit]

If your craftsmanship is good it can't be that hard. I would think the most important part, is making sure all your corners and joints line up really well (meaning no small gaps, and perfectly straight cuts!). And not only screws holding it together, but a very nice bead of outdoor glue also on each joint and connection. I would think a square box in a rock crevice wouldn't last. You would need to do something like a bird house. Fix it to a tree so the right way is always pointing up, and the top would have to be angled like a roof so the water would bead off, not letting it stand. Standing water is what you want to avoid. The roof would probably be the best part to open up, gaining access to the cache. That can be easily done with a hinge. You might also want to get some weather striping (for a car, or for under your doors in your house) and line the bottom of the roof with it. This way when the roof is closed, and makes a wonderfull seal all the way around. Might even think about glueing some weights to the roof, just to keep some added pressure on the seal. The type of wood, would also be important. I'm not sure what would work best, but I would think to stay away from plywoods and pine. Waterproofing is a little harder. Two stages, the outside and the inside. For the outside, I think deck sealer would be the best option. This way you can also pick a color if desired. For the inside, I think a nice coat of roofing tar would be the best. I put up a fence in my back yard a few years back, and before I stuck the posts into the ground, I coated them with roofing tar. All parts that were under the ground were coated, and a few inches past the ground line. From what I can tell, it seems to be working really well.

You can slap something together in probably a half hour, and have it last a week. Or spend the time, money, and effort, and have it last many years! That and finding a well made and thought out cache is always nice. If I can find the last box like this I made, i'll snap some few pics, but i'm pretty sure it got thrown away. I wish you luck with your cache!!!

[+stipman]

I just recently hid my first cache an I do have to say it is VERY important to read ALL of the guidelines. There were a few points in the guidelines that I almost didn't follow. They offer good information that helps make the caching experience more enjoyable, safer, etc etc.

 

Now for my question about hiding a cache... I'm thinking on placing a cache that would require 2 wood screws to be used on a tree. I know that 2 wood screws wouldn't hurt a tree but I do not want to offend anyone or set an unwanted precedent. I figure the cache will require some good craftsmanship and a good amount of artistic ability to create it and I want to do it right. (I'm not just bolting an ammo box to a tree!) I do think that cachers would appreciate the cache when placed/found.

 

Any comments?

[+Woodlit]

One screw in a large healthy tree? I dont' see any problems with that. I have placed a few like that, and have found numerous caches with things bolted and screwed into trees. I guess that is a judgement call on what exactly you are going to do to it.

I was searching for a hide location about a month ago that would require the same thing. I found this nice little fishing area I thought would be perfect, but there was a sign saying not to cut any limbs or damage the trees because of what kind they were. So I left and went searching for a new location.

You have to remember that there are lots of trail markers nailed into trees, and map boxes at parks bolted to trees

I have always respected the wildlife, trees, etc whenever I have been in the woods. there are people doing far worse things. Right behind my house is a few acres of woods. A few years back, the town wanted to make it into a WMA, park, something like that. So this fall they went and started a logging thing, and cut down half of the large and healthy trees back there! Not only that, they took the trunks to sell, and left the tops, limbs, and roots behind in the woods. Like a tree graveyard. So if the town could give to fidler-@#$%-s about a few hundres trees, I tell my self, one or two tiny holes is no big deal at all.

[Clan Riffster]

I think a proper answer would depend on where your tree is at. I tend to agree with your theory that a couple wood screws won't hurt a tree, and if it is on private property, or somewhere that's not managed as a wilderness area, I'd say "Go for it". However, if it's gonna be in a managed wilderness area, I'd say "Don't do it". As with many things in life, the real issue is not, are you hurting a tree, the real issue is, will land managers perceive that you're hurting a tree.

 

An alternitave you might try would be to affix a section of 2x4 to a tree trunk with large muffler clamps or tie straps, then screw the box into the 2x4.

[+stipman]

I can see the logic there and I had a feeling you'd give that answer. I think I have an alternate way to create the cache disguise though without "mounting hardware" involved.

[wolfbait]

I think I am going to do a plan be using a wooden box with metal plating

... how about it

[nonaeroterraqueous]

INow for my question about hiding a cache... I'm thinking on placing a cache that would require 2 wood screws to be used on a tree. I know that 2 wood screws wouldn't hurt a tree but I do not want to offend anyone or set an unwanted precedent. I figure the cache will require some good craftsmanship and a good amount of artistic ability to create it and I want to do it right. (I'm not just bolting an ammo box to a tree!) I do think that cachers would appreciate the cache when placed/found.

 

Any comments?

 

I can guarantee that someone somewhere will give birth to a large bovine when they see it, so I hope you have thick skin if you ever do this. Hopefully the person who has the fit would not be the owner of the tree. This subject has been discussed in the forums a few times and tends to get nasty.

 

I think I am going to do a plan be using a wooden box with metal plating

... how about it

 

you'd better give us more details if you want to inspire any confidence.

[wolfbait]

wood= to heavy

metal box, probably mounted on a pole, Inspired by a pic in forums

[+briansnat]

I just recently hid my first cache an I do have to say it is VERY important to read ALL of the guidelines. There were a few points in the guidelines that I almost didn't follow. They offer good information that helps make the caching experience more enjoyable, safer, etc etc.

 

Now for my question about hiding a cache... I'm thinking on placing a cache that would require 2 wood screws to be used on a tree. I know that 2 wood screws wouldn't hurt a tree but I do not want to offend anyone or set an unwanted precedent. I figure the cache will require some good craftsmanship and a good amount of artistic ability to create it and I want to do it right. (I'm not just bolting an ammo box to a tree!) I do think that cachers would appreciate the cache when placed/found.

 

Any comments?

 

Yes. Read the guidelines again, particularly this part about off limits caches:

 

"Caches that deface public or private property, whether a natural or man-made object, in order to provide a clue or a logging method."

 

You can bet that your reviewer will consider putting screws in trees to be a violation of this guideline.

 

One screw in a large healthy tree? I dont' see any problems with that. I have placed a few like that, and have found numerous caches with things bolted and screwed into trees

 

You might not see a problem, but your reviewer will. If he is aware that this is being done, the cache will not be published and if he finds out, it will likely be archived. Does a screw in a healthy tree harm it? Of course not. But its not a practice that we geocachers want to be known for. Its taken us years to get past the "people who dig holes in our parks" label. We don't want to be known next as "the people who put nails in trees" . That and its also against the guidelines.

Edited November 10, 2006 by briansnat

[+Woodlit]

I should take pictures of what their logging has done by my house. If just for a second I could look past how many hundred they cut down, I can't even stomach all the other damage they have done with their machines. Driving heavey machinery into the woods with tracks on them and not wheels. geeze... I think i'm going to go drive a sheet rock screw into a tree now

[+Woodlit]

Its hard to tell somebodys tone in these forums. I just read my last post, and it sounds like i'm pissed. But really i'm laughing. I just don't want to have to leave an ammo can in a crevice on every cache.

[+stipman]

The thought is to create a fake cover for a hollow in the base of tree. Cache goes in the tree, cover it with fake cover attached with small hinge to keep it on. I beleive I have another method for attaching it that does not use any fasteners that get attached to the tree. I can use gravity and friction...two of my favorite things.

[+Woodlit]

Hope it works out for you