GEO-CACHE CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION STENCILS

January 9, 2002

Instructions on how to make a stencil for marking a Geocache container, in Microsoft Word format, including a full size stencil with encapsulated stencil font. To download a Microsoft Word 97 format document which can be used to print the stencils, go to the website below, right-click one of the links, then choose SAVE TARGET AS, and save to the C:My Documents directory on your hard drive. Open the saved document using Microsoft Word. Three stencil formats available.

Also still available on the site:

GEO-CACHE CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION TAG - An informative tag designed to be laminated and attached to a Geocache container to inform those who might find the container, especially accidentally, what the container is. Choose a tag featuring either the old, thirty-square Geocaching logo or the new, four-square Geocaching logo.

http://gageocaching.tripod.com/

Free download, naturally, courtesy of the Big Dog and the Georgia Geocachers Association.

[This message has been edited by BigDoggie (edited 09 January 2002).]

January 9, 2002

For those interested in including the logo, I've got a Word Document below that has a stensil version of the 4 square logo. To incorporate it into the other document, just copy and paste (make sure to drag from the corners to resize).

Georgia ***'n, feel free to use this in your document if you wish.

Same as before, right click and "Save As" into your My Documents directory.

Four Square Logo: Stensil Document for Word

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Markwell

My Geocache Page

Non omnes vagi perditi sunt

January 9, 2002

Thanks for the links to tags and stencils! I was thinking of making stencils too but haven't gotten around to doing it. You just saved me time!

...now to get that stencil on my microcache.

January 9, 2002

Thanks for the new addition, Markwell!

January 9, 2002

A while back I asked for the vector version of the logo so I could do stuff like this. Thanks for the image Markwell. One question... do you think If I printed it on a transparency and then cut it out that would be good enough for spray painting?

January 9, 2002

quote:
Originally posted by Hamster:
... do you think If I printed it on a transparency and then cut it out that would be good enough for spray painting?

That would work great Hamster.....Either that or Mylar. One tip though, spray the back side of the stencil with hairspray before applying it. It'll hold it down nice and snug.

January 9, 2002

Thanks for that hairspray tip, cliffy. I have been using magnets.

January 10, 2002

You can go to my cache Peek-a-Boo!, and I've got a word version (vector graphic) of the logo and a PDF file.

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Markwell

My Geocache Page

Non omnes vagi perditi sunt

January 11, 2002

Re stencil materials...

You have LOTS of options, depending on how many times you plan to use it.

A plain sheet of 20# or 24# copier paper will work several times, especially if you give it a shot of spray paint on both sides b4 your first use to "toughen it up".

Next up in durability, a sheet of 40# index stock or 110# cover stock. Thicker papers, but a layer of paint still strengthens them.

If you plan a lot of use, print on and cut out a sheet of transparency stock, or a sheet of plain paper which you have heat-laminated.

And, of course, the container should be clean, dry and free of oil and grease.

BTW... those of you who have downloaded, what do you think of the idea? I know you are out there, because I have had over 100 hits on the website since posting this thread.

[This message has been edited by BigDoggie (edited 11 January 2002).]

January 12, 2002

I think its a great idea!

I have never worked with Spraypaint before, so I'd like some tips on technique. I just bought a very nice pre-cammo'd container. Which I want to put a yellow stencil on. But in the future I'd like to cammo tupperware containers... any technique for doing this? Which colors do I need? How do I make the cammo effect?

quote:
Originally posted by BigDoggie:
Re stencil materials...

You have LOTS of options, depending on how many times you plan to use it.

A plain sheet of 20# or 24# copier paper will work several times, especially if you give it a shot of spray paint on both sides b4 your first use to "toughen it up".

Next up in durability, a sheet of 40# index stock or 110# cover stock. Thicker papers, but a layer of paint still strengthens them.

If you plan a lot of use, print on and cut out a sheet of transparency stock, or a sheet of plain paper which you have heat-laminated.

And, of course, the container should be clean, dry and free of oil and grease.

BTW... those of you who have downloaded, what do you think of the idea? I know you are out there, because I have had over 100 hits on the website since posting this thread.

[This message has been edited by BigDoggie (edited 11 January 2002).]

January 13, 2002

Technique:

PRACTICE first on surfaces you do not care about.

If you stencil upright, it is easy to have paint runs. You can either (1) practice making multiple LIGHT coats with drying time between, or (2) the easy way, lay the can down flat and spray from above.

Remove the stencil right after you finish spraying, so the stencil doesn't stick.

January 13, 2002

Thanks! But how do I create a cammo pattern on tupperware?

January 13, 2002

Well, here is my terrible first attempt at a Cache Stencil.

First I printed the image I wanted on the cache on a transparancy. That part was easy with Adobe Illustrator.

Then I taped the transparency to my cache box using Masking tape. The transparancy was flush with the surface.

Unfortunately, I either sprayed too close, or the paint was too runny or something, but somehow the paint got under the stencil, and upon removing it smeared.

Here is the final cache

Terrible job. Perhaps I should have tried the hairspray. Or perhaps next time, I'll cover the area on the cache with masking tape, then carve the forms out of the tape... this way no paint could leak where it should not.

Any suggestions to a first time spray painter?

January 13, 2002

Hampster,

Too bad that didn't work out. Looks like you had a good idea going for a while.

My only thought is that the paint went on too thick and ran.

I once painted a red cross symbol on an ammo box. It came out very good. Although, the red cross symbol is very easy to tape off, so there was no possibility of paint running under the stencil in that case.

I'd try it again, if I were you. This time spraying several very light coats.

Jamie

January 13, 2002

quote:
I'd try it again, if I were you. This time spraying several very light coats.

Jamie

I think I'll try it again. Perhaps my spray technique was not good enough. I will try again, this time I'll spray from further away so the paint is too thin to have a chance to run.

January 13, 2002

Lay the can down flat with the stencil on top. Paint needs GRAVITY to run... and it isn't there if the can is flat.

You can get flexible magnetic strips at the craft stores... about 3/8" wide by 1/16" thick, adhesive on one side (which you don't use for this), in rolls about 3 feet long. Use strips of this magnetic material to hold the stencil down.

Or try the hair spray. I hear that 3M makes a "tacky spray" especially for doing printer's layouts when you may need to move the items around. I'd try the hairspray first, as I bet the 3M product is expensive.

January 14, 2002

The can was flat, however I think I may have sprayed it on too thick too fast. This was my first time spray painting. The magnets would have worked, but this is a plastic can. So I used stones to hold the stencil down. But still I could not hold down all of the finer parts of the stencil, only the sides.

I may try hairspray, or carve the stencil out of masking tape

quote:
Originally posted by BigDoggie:
Lay the can down flat with the stencil on top. Paint needs GRAVITY to run... and it isn't there if the can is flat.

You can get flexible magnetic strips at the craft stores... about 3/8" wide by 1/16" thick, adhesive on one side (which you don't use for this), in rolls about 3 feet long. Use strips of this magnetic material to hold the stencil down.

Or try the hair spray. I hear that 3M makes a "tacky spray" especially for doing printer's layouts when you may need to move the items around. I'd try the hairspray first, as I bet the 3M product is expensive.

January 14, 2002

I've used the 110 lb stock paper (printed it on my HP850c with no problem) and cut it out with an exacto knife.

It's been a while since I did it (September?), but I do remember the first time I did it, I had a problem with the spray can being too far from the target. When I moved it to within 3 inches, I had no problem.

Bonus on using the heavy card stock: you can curl it around PVC tubes, which is what the caches were made of.

------------------

Markwell

My Geocache Page

Non omnes vagi perditi sunt

January 14, 2002

quote:
Originally posted by Markwell:
I've used the 110 lb stock paper (printed it on my HP850c with no problem) and cut it out with an exacto knife.

It's been a while since I did it (September?), but I do remember the first time I did it, I had a problem with the spray can being too far from the target. When I moved it to within 3 inches, I had no problem.

Bonus on using the heavy card stock: you can curl it around PVC tubes, which is what the caches were made of.

What kind of paint did you get? and where? Perhaps the paint I bought was too runny a brand.

January 14, 2002

I went to the Hardware store and got non-gloss outdoor paint (yellow). Nothing fancy and cost about 89¢ (USD) for a whole can. I think most of it was in the 110lb stock paper and the proximity to the target.

------------------

Markwell

My Geocache Page

Non omnes vagi perditi sunt

January 15, 2002

Well, after my first failed attempt, I got some paint thinner and wiped the paint off the box. This time I covered the box in masking tape. Then traced the outline of the stencil onto the tape. Then I cut the form out of the tape.

This time there should be no running paint. I'll let y'all know how it comes out.

January 16, 2002

Well, the masking tape approach worked brilliantly. Sprayed it this afternoon, and peeled the tape off this evening. Here is the result

January 16, 2002

Hampster,

Fine job! Did any of the masking tape pull the paint up as you removed it? I've had that happen.

Unfortunately, I guess your stencil is one-time-use only.

Jamie

January 16, 2002

lastic is flaking due to the harsh paint thinner. But otherise it is perfect!

You can see the plastic flaking above the letters in this zoomed in view (This is a result of the Paint Thinner I used:

January 18, 2002

I am sure that making the stencil from masking tape would work... but only getting ONE USE from it woul dbe a bummer.

Has anyone tried the hairspray trick on a "regular" stencil?

April 22, 2003

I opened up the "Peek a Boo" cache page to see if I could get the geocaching logo.. and my big mistake.. my volume was turned up.

OK, I need to go change my clothing now.

WARNING: I cannot be responsible for the above, as apparently my cats have learned how to type.

April 22, 2003

Use contact paper for the stencle,,, its less reuseable ,, but it will stick well, and the paint wont run,,,, plus yes use hairspray for normal stencils, and ,,,, there is a stencil spray at your local craft store....

This was painted with stencils from contact paper.

http://www.geocities.com/johntrotto/images/zombie_celebrity_collage.jpg

April 22, 2003

BTW,, Where did you get the Kick Butt container Hamster !??!!??

1.3k · April 22, 2003

You can cut leafy twigs and fern fronds and use them as masking material for cool camo effects.

"Searching with my good eye closed"

GEO-CACHE CONTAINER IDENTIFICATION STENCILS

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