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I just got a rino 130 yesterday and started right in (after I tried to get familiar with it). I went to my first cache, and I could tell where it was hidden before I got within 100ft. Then I went to a few others and I could not find a thing, so I decided to try again today. The problem I'm having is that my waypoints seem to start to move around me when I get close and the GPS sends me all over the place. After an hour of walking all over a 100ft area I just tried to find it without my GPS, and no luck. Then I tried to go to other caches, but I had the same problem. it says that I have "3D" and it usually says its accurate between 15-35 ft. I checked and rechecked my coordinates. Are rino 130s good for geocaching? I really want to get into this but I am starting to get very frustrated. :rolleyes:

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Hang in there.

Sounds like you are right on track.

When you get that close you can usualy just put the GPSr away and start looking.

Start with the easier caches(1 or 2 stars) and work your way up slowly to the harder ones.

It takes a little time to get the knack of it.

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Your GPSr will take a little while to get a good satellite lock. Also be aware that rock surfaces, tree cover and buildings will heavily influence the reception of your unit. If you find yourself in areas where the reception may be affected, then you can always 'project' the cache position - look at the direction and distance of the cache from several directions.

 

And hey, welcome to the hobby!

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There are tricks you can use to 'find zero' but normaly when you are doing that the people you are with find the cache.

 

As has been said, when you get close start looking. All GPSs have a problem pointing the way when you are too close to the waypoint.

 

Caches vary in how easy they are. Some are like the first one you did. others you could be looking at them and not see them. My skunk ratio isn't getting better with more finds. Geocachers are getting ever more creative in their hides.

 

Good luck.

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Yup. Your GPS will appear to "wander" when you get close. As mentioned, you may find it best to stop when you're about 50-60 feet away and just let the unit settle down. This is a great time to do a "wide angle" look at the general scene. After a bit, you'll develop a sixth sense and just about pinpoint where a regular-size cache probably is (micros and smaller ones are NOT so easily predicted!)

 

It's also a good time to take a look around to see if you're being watched. Non-cachers (which are humorously called muggles by we treasure hunters) seem to get curious about why that guy was poking around in the bushes over there. Then, after you leave, they go look for themselves. Many caches have disappeared that way.

 

After your unit settles down, go most of the way to the zero point. You might even set your GPS unit down there to allow it to settle again.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that most GPS units do not point absolute direction. That is, if you have the arrow screen selected (best choice when close) the arrow points to the waypoint based on your last direction of movement. It does not point like a compass. A compass needle will swing if you turn around while standing still, but a GPS needle will not. It won't swing unless and until you move a certain minimum distance and speed.

 

If all else fails, walk 100 feet away, turn around and walk 50 feet back at a steady pace. Stop and do the settle trick again. If THAT fails, walk a large triangle around the probable zero point, watching the GPS needle. Without turning, note where it points, do a mental average and then go to that spot.

 

The cache is there somewhere. Usually.

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A compass needle will swing if you turn around while standing still, but a GPS needle will not. It won't swing unless and until you move a certain minimum distance and speed.

 

9 times out of 10, you're right, but the OP's Rino 130 has a built-in compass (like mine), and the arrow swings as you turn around.

 

Aaron

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Assuming no muggles in area, you might try this trick: When we were first starting out, and especially looking for either very difficult caches and/or micros, I would do this: I would find a path where I was about 100 feet away from the cache area and could walk towards the cache at a good pace on a fairly direct line. I would then walk towards the cache at a good fast pace. When the pointer swung 90 degrees off my path, I would drop a marker. I would then find a spot about 100 feet from the indicated cache area and about 90 degrees off my first path route. I would then repeat the process. These two markers would give me an area to start my search. I would then search from that area and expand outwards. For markers I would use a heavy washer and some flagging. (This works well in wooded/rural areas with no one watching). I would then try to think like a hider. (Make sure you take your markers with you when you leave). Now that we have been doing this for awhile, I do this same thing, but instead of using physical markers, I just visually remember where I would have dropped the marker. Keeps me on track and in the right area.

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