dzdiver

After location, a quality container is key.

As others have said, several of us geocachers are in LE. If you are approached by LE, simply follow their instructions and tell the truth. You might make a new friend. I was introduced to geocaching due to a call for service that I handled. A geocacher found a gun while finding a cache. That geocacher and his wife are good friends of mine.

Assuming no muggles in area, you might try this trick: When we were first starting out, and especially looking for either very difficult caches and/or micros, I would do this: I would find a path where I was about 100 feet away from the cache area and could walk towards the cache at a good pace on a fairly direct line. I would then walk towards the cache at a good fast pace. When the pointer swung 90 degrees off my path, I would drop a marker. I would then find a spot about 100 feet from the indicated cache area and about 90 degrees off my first path route. I would then repeat the process. These two markers would give me an area to start my search. I would then search from that area and expand outwards. For markers I would use a heavy washer and some flagging. (This works well in wooded/rural areas with no one watching). I would then try to think like a hider. (Make sure you take your markers with you when you leave). Now that we have been doing this for awhile, I do this same thing, but instead of using physical markers, I just visually remember where I would have dropped the marker. Keeps me on track and in the right area.

I had a spontaneous pneumothorax last year while geocaching. Even with that, I insisted that the wife continue to the cache and log it before we hiked out to get emergency care!

My wife and I were commenting recently that exactly this is happening in our area. There is one cacher especially, who I believe drives down the road and randomly throws out a cache while marking the waypoint. Putting out a cache just because you can is not necessarily a good thing. I may have to use the "ignore this cache" function with that cachers hides. Maybe we could upgrade the function to "Ignore caches by this user." (Edited to correct spelling mistake)

I have found that the regulars on this forum are very helpful to everyone who shows respect and posts within the guidelines. I used to lurk quite a bit, on my new schedule, I don't log in as much. I only post when I have a question or have something of substance to add. I am not intimidated by regulars or anyone else. This forum is a great learning tool. DZDIVER

We have the auto-routing Garmin 76C (which we love!). With the City Select software loaded into the GPS, the GPS is capable of automatically calculating a route from your present location to your desired location. The GPS will beep at you to bring your attention to the display, then it will give you both text descriptions and a diagram of the upcoming turn/exit. The screen is big enough and clear enough that with the unit mounted on the dash in the vicinity of the driver, you should be able to read the directions. There are some limitations that I have found: The City Select Software knows of about 95 percent of the streets in our rural county. If the software is not aware of the street, it cannot use it for a route. The maps for the area that you wish to auto-route with must be loaded into the GPS memory. With the 76C that is not much of a problem since you can load almost all, if not all of California into memory at once. The routes selected by the GPS are not always the same ones that I would do manually, but they USUALLY get you there. The GPS is not able to auto-navigate with the TOPO maps. Hope this helps!

Former FF/EMT for 8 years. Now approaching my 10 year anniversary in Law Enforcement. Yeah, I carry several tools of both trades while I geocache.

I have to endorse the Leatherman. When I worked in the fire service I carried one on my belt and used it constantly. Once I used it to cut double strand barb wire in an emergency. (Not the proper tool for the job!) The wire cutters did cut the barb wire, but the cutters got deformed in the process. I wrote a short note to Leatherman and sent the tool in. Within two weeks I had a brand new leatherman back- no charge. Great tool, excellent customer service.

I recently started giving away bootable Knoppix CD's. Great way for a person to try Linux without risk. Glad to hear that others are doing so.

I have received several recommendations and offers. Thanks, keep them coming for the time being. No firm decisions have been made yet. I will keep the community informed. Thanks.

I agree with Team DEMP. We started with a Garmin 72 for an inexpensive GPS for our kayaks. We recently researched the units and bought the Garmin 76C. I have read negatives about the built-in compass and barometric sensor on the 76CS. We really like the auto-routing capabilities of the 76C. If that one is not available, then I would have to go with the 60C. Hope that helps.

I recently had a medical problem that prevents me from SCUBA diving again. I have recovered and am doing well. Besides SCUBA diving, I have no limitations. I have not dove in several years. I own three tanks with valves (some Luxfer that may have been recalled), a Harvey's Farmer John style wetsuit and jacket (fits a 6-6 tall, 230 pound male), TUSA first stage regulator with two second stages and analog console, Tusa BC, original spare-air with holder, two dive lights, adaptor for SCBA (fire dept type) fill whip to SCUBA tank, misc parts. I also have several manuals including: US Navy dive manuals, NOAA dive manual, cave and cavern diving manuals, decompression manuals, sport manuals, PADI Divemaster Manual, etc. I will keep my masks, snorkels, fins, and booties for skin diving. The SCUBA items have not been used in years and have been stored in my garage. I do not guarantee their condition. I am looking to donate the items to an organization that can put them to good use. Perhaps an organized dive rescue/recovery team, college research dive team, etc. I am looking for suggestions. I would also consider donating to an exceptional individual who can put the items to use. Depending upon the requests that I receive, I may piece out the items or donate as a lot. (I expect that it will not be economically viable to ship out the tanks). This offer is also being made to some local groups. If you know of an organization or an individual who can put the items to good use, please email me or have that person/group email me. I might ask for actual shipping costs, but otherwise the items are free. Preference will be given to non-profit organizations or organizations with a purpose consistent with my values. Regards, DZDIVER

I recently found a geocache that was disguised as a clean-out in an area where pipes and valves are to be expected. The clean-out was positioned in an odd spot that didn't make sense. I tried to turn the lid off with my hands and found that it would not budge. ( I am a big guy who works out.) I explored the area around the clean-out and determined that it was in fact, a fake clean-out. I had to return to my vehicle to get a pair of pliers that would enable me to remove the lid. Once I removed the lid, I found the geocache and logged it. On the bag containing the log, I noticed some brown goop, that I believe may be thread goop. The stuff stained my clothes and smelled awful. I made certain that the threads on the lid were clean and then replaced it. I made certain that it was only snug and could be removed with bare hands. I then emailed the cache owner with the problem of lid tightness. He has yet to respond to my email. I have recently engaged in some debate about educating law enforcement and fire departments about geocaching and geocache containers. From working for an agency with 100 plus uniformed personnel, I can tell you that any effort to educate them about geocaching will be mostly fruitless. DZDIVER

If I'm not too late, please send details on any tools you still have left. Thanks!

My "Day Job" happens to take place at night, so out of necessity, I have learned a thing or two about flashlights. The best flashlights are made by: Surefire, Streamlight, and Pelican. These lights do not come cheap, but nothing else compares. My latest light for back up duty use is a Pelican 2330 M6 LED. It is slightly bigger than a mini-mag light and uses an extra briight LED. The run time is amazing. I carry this on my duty belt so that I always have a flashlight on my person. If you do your homework you can find the disposable lithium batteries pretty cheap. If it is a light that you will be constantly using, then go with a rechargeable version of whatever light you decide on. Cheap lights will let you down when you need them. If you absolutely MUST see in the dark, then do what cave divers do and carry 3 lights. That is what I do when I work night shift. Depending upon your exact needs, you can find a high quality flashliight for about $50 and up. If you want more information, feel free to contact me by email. DZDIVER.

One company that sells custom fit screen protectors is: www.screenguardz.com The protectors are held in place using static electricity and work well. I have been using the protectors on my Garmin 72 and 76C for over a month now. They seem to hold up very well.

I recently did research on the best consumer grade handheld GPS receivers. The Garmin 76C or 76CS came out on top. We went with the Garmin 76C and are very happy with it. Beautiful screen even in sunlight, large amount of memory, easy to use. The only drawback that I have found is that it is pricey!

I wish that someone would have given us this warning earlier. This week we just purchased a new Garmin 76C and the city select software to make finding the parking areas for geocaches easier. Now we are seriously discussing the purchase of a Jeep to make getting to the remote geocaches easier. This might turn out to be a very expensive hobby! Good thing that we can quit anytime we want to!

Great story. If you have to purchase a new GPS at full price, I would consider the 76C instead of the 60C. You get about twice the memory as the 60C. Many people find that it is easier to operate the 76C form factor rather than the 60C. I bought my 76C from a local dealer at $400 plus CALIF tax. If you are interested, I will give you his name/number.

We have been using a Garmin 72 for 229 finds now. Two days ago we bought the Garmin 76C, city select software, bean bag mount and more and absolutely love it! It makes navigating so much easier! We got the 76C from a local dealer for $400.00. Very nice unit if you can afford it/justify it.

If it doesnt sell, let me know, I am interested. DZDIVER

Use the tupperware for food items and get Ammo cans for the caches. Nothing like a genuine ammo can for durability, weather resistance, and low maintenance. Check with your local gun shops, military surplus dealers, or www.cheaperthandirt.com

My wife and I now have 220 finds, 1 hide, and own 2 geocoins. We are paying members of GC.com. We have introduced three co-workers to geocaching. We donate quality containers to others who enjoy hiding. I don't think that we are sucking the hobby dry. We have a cache made up and ready to place. We have been surveying different spots and will be placing a second cache soon. The first spot we chose was very difficult to work with due to poor satellite reception. We tend to appreciate the location of a cache over any other criteria. Location, location, location. When we find the right location for our next cache, it will be placed. We will not place a cache simply to add another cache to the count. We really appreciate quality caches. I will not simply throw a piece of tupperware under a bush and call it a cache. I really appreciate those hiders who take the time to do it right. This is not about numbers for us. It is about going to places that we would not know about, except for geocaching. It is about learning about locations and maybe the history. We do appreciate every hider who places a cache AND maintains it. We especially appreciate those of you who place quality caches, maintain them, and bring us to interesting locations. DZDIVER

I would encourage you to log your DNF's (Did Not Find) so that we can look at the caches that you didn't locate. There is no shame in a DNF. A DNF becomes part of the cache history. When multiple people log a DNF, it is a signal for the cache owner to check the cache. What was the difficulty rating for the caches that you DNF? When you are first starting out, I would encourage you to stick with caches that have difficulty ratings of 2 or less to get some experience. Were the caches recently found by other cachers? Remember that a consumer grade GPS will often have an error of up to 30 feet, regardless of what the manufacturer and the estimated accuracy states. We have found several caches where the cache was 40 feet from where the GPS indicated it should have been. This was in good satellite conditions. In poor satellite reception areas, it could be worse. We have seen some very, very good hides of full size ammo boxes. There has been a few caches that stumped us initially. Some hiders are truly masters! For caches that we were having a difficult time locating we would follow the below approach when there were no privacy/discretion issues. I would approach the location from more than 100 feet away and when the GPS showed that I was within a couple of feet or the direction arrow would swing wildly, I would drop a marker. I would then repeat that from two other directions. The dropped markers gave us a good indication of "Ground Zero". I use some flagging tied to a washer for the markers. We would then search the area bounded by the markers and then if necessary work outwards from there. Once we had the ground zero identified, we would put away the GPS and start looking at the places that looked like good hiding spots. Time to start thinking like a hider! As you get more experience finding caches, even the simple ones, you will start to spot the likely places much quicker. Good luck, hang in there. Maybe you could find some experienced geocachers in your area and go geocaching with them. Regards, DZDIVER