Tips about replacing the eTrex rubber surround

[gallet]

A friend left his HCx in the car in the sun and now it's having the glue problem and I'm going to have a go at fixing it. I've had a look at the various sites that mention this but there are a couple of things I'm not clear on and would appreciate some advice from someone who has actually done it

 

I'm not able to get hold of a new piece of rubber as a spare part, so I have to reuse the old one.

 

I can't see how the gasket (for want of a better word) is meant to be applied. I can see a seam at the top and the bottom but these appear to be where the rubber is 'welded' into a continuous band. So I can't tell if it's meant to come apart at the bottom so it peels off as a flat strip or if it's mean to remain as a continuous band.

 

If it is meant to be continuous then I can't see how it's meant to be applied.

 

Also what is the best glue to use. Rubber cement seems the logical choice but I've also seen a reference to 'silicon gasket maker', and I was wondering if rubber seam sealer as seen in camping stores might be good.

 

Anyway, if anyone has done this I'd be happy for some tips.

 

thx

Edited May 2, 2008 by gallet

[+the hermit crabs]

I've done this repair twice (two different units). On both, I re-used the old loose gasket. It would have come out better if I had used a new one.

 

I had seen advice here on several different adhesives to use, and I decided to go with the recommendation for "Badge Magic" rather than a liquid glue. It's sold as a paper-backed adhesive sheet; it's meant to be used to attach Scout badges to uniforms.

 

Here's what I did. I made up this procedure as I went along; I'm not sure if this is how the original poster who recommended Badge Magic did it:

• Remove the loose gasket. It comes off as one continuous loop, not as a flat strip.
  
• There is a piece of clear tape around the seam of the unit. Leave it there.
  
• Clean off the sticky remnants of glue from both the gasket and from the GPS, using Goo-Gone. Wipe clean and dry with a handkerchief or other lint-free cloth.
  
• Cut a strip of the Badge Magic 5/8 inch wide, the length of the sheet (11 inches).
  
• Pick a place to start. I decided to start at the bottom, halfway between the corner and the lanyard loop-hole. I don't know why I picked that spot.
  
• Without removing the backing from the BM strip, lay it tight and flat against the spot where it will eventually be. With a pencil, trace out the lanyard loop-hole spot.
  
• Cut that spot out with scissors. Lay the strip against that area again to make sure you've cut the right size. Trim if necessary.
  
• Remove about three inches of the paper backing of the BM strip. Press into place, from your starting location on the bottom, around the lanyard loop-hole, and around the corner of the unit . Go about halfway up to the lower right-side button. Trim the piece of paper backing that is now hanging loose.
  
• Without removing any more of the paper backing, lay it tight and flat against the right-hand side of the unit. With a pencil, trace out the two right-side bottons.
  
• Use a paper punch to punch holes in the BM strip with the buttons go. Lay the strip against that area again to make sure you've cut the right size. Punch more if necessary. Remove the paper backing from the area you've just measure and punched out. Press into place, around the buttons and to the upper-right corner of the unit.
  
• Repeat this process of measuring, trimming, and pressing into place a few inches at a time, until you've gone all the way around.
  
• Remove the top layer of paper from the BM strip, exposing the sticky surface.
  
• Carefully replace the rubber gasket over the sticky strip. Press and squeeze tightly all over.
  

I've only had one problem with this method. In both cases, the gasket had not only loosened, but it had stretched out, so it was actually too big for the unit. This results in two tiny gaps at the two lower corners of the int after the gasket was re-attached. With lots more pressing and squeezing, I was able to make those gaps virtually invisible... until I used a Foarm hard case on one of them. The case was so snug that it pressed really hard against the sides of the unit, so the slightly-too-big gasket ended up bulging out at the places of least resistance -- the gaps in the case where the side-button access points are.

 

I don't know if I would have better off trimming a little sliver out of the gasket before replacing it, or if that would have caused other issues.

[+Klatch]

A friend left his HCx in the car in the sun and now it's having the glue problem and I'm going to have a go at fixing it. I've had a look at the various sites that mention this but there are a couple of things I'm not clear on and would appreciate some advice from someone who has actually done it

 

I'm not able to get hold of a new piece of rubber as a spare part, so I have to reuse the old one.

 

I can't see how the gasket (for want of a better word) is meant to be applied. I can see a seam at the top and the bottom but these appear to be where the rubber is 'welded' into a continuous band. So I can't tell if it's meant to come apart at the bottom so it peels off as a flat strip or if it's mean to remain as a continuous band.

 

If it is meant to be continuous then I can't see how it's meant to be applied.

 

Also what is the best glue to use. Rubber cement seems the logical choice but I've also seen a reference to 'silicon gasket maker', and I was wondering if rubber seam sealer as seen in camping stores might be good.

 

Anyway, if anyone has done this I'd be happy for some tips.

 

thx

I will relate my experience, but not success. The rubber strip is one piece. The waterproofing is provided by the double sided tape strip under the rubber and that is what goes bad. I have tried several kinds of glue and none worked properly. Garmin is very good about sending repair kits for this, but it will be temporary. This is one of the characteristics of the eTrex line, I sent my old blue Legend back twice and had it fixed under warranty. Each repair lasted about 6 months. I guess if you can stay out of the heat it would last longer. This is what has kept me from purchasing the Vista HCX. Garmin's tech services basically said nothing was different in the new models and I guess your friend's experience confirms that. I have left my 76CS in the same conditions and have had no problems in the 4 or 5 years I've had it.

[gallet]

Thanks for that, I will digest and assimilate.

 

The gasket on the one I'm repairing appears to have stretched a bit too. Do you think there is any merit in trying to cut the gasket so it is a flat strip with a millimeter or two can be trimmed off. That will leave a seam (at the bottom) of course. But it may make it easier to get on. Any thoughts on this?

[gallet]

@Klatch,

 

Yes, this used to be my HCx which was borrowed by a friend. I never had any problems with it till he left it in his car in the sun, after which he magically became the new owner and I bought a new HCx which I've never had a problem with. I've also owned a few second hand eTrex and never had a problem with any of them. So my experience has been good until it was left in the sun.

 

I was thinking of using 'Seam Grip' http://seamgrip.com/ (click on 'outdoor' then 'adhesives & seam sealers'. It's incredibly tough, pliable, and waterproof, although it will probably be a permanent bond.

Edited May 3, 2008 by gallet

[+Prime Suspect]

I repaired mine with ½-inch Scotch Photo & Document double-sided acid-free tape. Much easier to work with than glue, silicon rubber, or epoxy. See the full instructions here.

[+DustyWalker]

Ooops- double post

Edited May 4, 2008 by DustyWalker

[+DustyWalker]

I repaired mine using Loctite Xtreme glue. It was the only thing I could find that would stick to the rubber rand as it seems to be silicone impregnated. I tried others and they would let go in no time. I did find that it was a bit stretched but the glue filled the gaps once all was in place. Just be careful not to put too much on around the buttons. If need be I am sure that I can get it apart again for repairs.