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Please Help!


TrpD345
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I am trying to map out some 4-wheeler trails on some land that I ride on. I thought everything was going good until I open the tracks up into ExpertGPS. The tracks don't end where I thought I ended them? The track will continue in a striaght line to another point or track? When I try to edit it, it is just a jumbled up mess! It does the same thing when I send the information from the GPS to MapSource. Even if I try to view the track on the GPS it just shoots off into space and does not end where I ended it. What am I doing wrong? Should I be saving them as routes instead of tracks? Please help!

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It would help to know what you're doing now (what type of GPS, when are you clearing the tracklog, how are you saving tracks, etc.).

 

Sounds like you're downloading the tracklogs from more than one trip to ExpertGPS and it's connecting the end of one trip to the start of the next with a straight line.

 

If possible try to start a trip with a clean slate by clearing the tracklog after you already have a good 3-D position lock but just before you've started moving on the trail you're going to map. Then travel down the trail and immediately stop the recording of the tracklog when you reach the end. Now download the tracklog to your PC *without* doing any save on the GPS itself.

 

I use USAPhotoMaps instead of ExpertGPS, but the above method should make things easy in either one.

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No you can use tracks but when you go to the tracks section of the gps, go down to save it then asks if you want to save all the data say NO. This will allow you to browse on the map and choose a starting point and a ending point for 1 section of track. And give it a name, then just repeat and download your saved tracks.

 

This is how you do it on a garmin at least.

 

Thanks,

kgag.

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I am using a 60CS. I did not completely clear the track log before I started today. I can see where that would be a problem. I would start tracking and then stop tracking at the end of the trail, then I would save it and name it. All of the trails were dead ends trails. Why shoould I not save it before sending it to the PC? Thanks!

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I don't know what unit you are using but I have that problem with my Meridian if I forget to do the following:

Save the track onto the GPS under a discrete name, delete the track from the screen, tunr off tracking. If you don't the track will jump when you turn it on to download to PC.

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Why shoould I not save it before sending it to the PC? Thanks!

 

The "Active Log" is the tracklog that records the current track on the unit and it can have up to 10,000 points including time/datestamps with each point. But when you save that tracklog into one of the 20 named saved tracks on the unit the data is compressed to a much smaller number of points (I believe it's 500 points/track on the 60cs) and the time/datestamps are removed. If you have a reasonably long track then this compression can result in loss of considerable detail, i.e. some smaller turns are eliminated or drawn with far fewer points.

 

So for maximum accuracy it's best to do the download directly from the Active Log to your PC and *not* to save it first on the GPS.

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I am trying to map out some 4-wheeler trails on some land that I ride on. I thought everything was going good until I open the tracks up into ExpertGPS. The tracks don't end where I thought I ended them? The track will continue in a striaght line to another point or track?

 

Use the Scissors tool in ExpertGPS to cut the track right before it shoots off into the great beyond. Then bring up the Track list on the left side and delete the unwanted track.

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Use the Scissors tool in ExpertGPS to cut the track right before it shoots off into the great beyond. Then bring up the Track list on the left side and delete the unwanted track.

 

(Dan, Wouldn't he have to "cut" at both ends of the "great beyond" section and then delete just that straight section?)

 

I think what you may have is several saved tracks and then you are also seeing the "active log".

 

The next time you do some mapping, try this....Go to the start of a trail that you want to map. Be sure your GPSr has attained a good lock, then at that point clear the track log and start moving down the trail. When you reach the end, save that track. Then go to the next trail. Repeat the process including clearing the tracklog at the beginning.

In my opinion, this is the easiest method for trails of 10 miles +/-., because what you end up with are separate distinct trails with no "tails" on them. However, if the separate trails are VERY long individually and intricate, then you will need to either do them individually or clear the tracklog at the start and map several trails and come back to your PC and download the "active log" as Peter said above, then "edit" the track as Dan from Topografix said above.

 

In your GPSr 60 the Trackpoints/saved track are limited to 250. (250X20 saved tracks=10,000). Also, trackpoints can be saved in several ways, "Auto", "Time"," Distance". Under "Auto " you can select from 5 diff options from "least often" to "most often". Under "time" you define the actual time interval, and under "distance" you define the actual distance between trackpoints.

 

Based on track length, mode of travel(speed) etc, you can mess with the different methods above and time/distance intervals and come up with the most efficient combination to follow the trail as accurately as you desire and still stay within the 250 tp/saved track. That way you can save multiple individual tracks while out in the field without having to either download the active log after each trail or edit your download.

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Saving the active log into a saved track also deletes the altitude info if I'm not mistaken?

 

You can edit the tracks after you download them, copy it, rename it, then paste it (takes over original name). Create as many seperate tracks as you have sections you wish to keep seperate, then go into each and highlight/delete points outside the area you wish to map. It's pretty easy to see the breaks as the leg distance is quite a bit larger than normal.

 

But also, doesn't the new beta MapSource products let you split up tracks, etc? I haven't played with it much.

 

It's late :D so I hope I'm not too out to lunch here, I should be asleep

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Saving the active log into a saved track also deletes the altitude info if I'm not mistaken?

No, the altitude data is still there, but the loss of the time/datastamps means that you no longer have any data about when you were at a particular place or how fast you were going. So if you want to keep an archive of past hikes or other trips it's best to download the Active Log directly to your PC. The timestamps can also be handy when used in conjunction with a digital camera since you can use them to determine exactly where you were when you took each picture.

 

As you mentioned, the latest MapSource beta does allow for limited track editing functions and there are also lots of other programs that provide for track editing (GarTrip, Ozi, USAPhotoMaps, etc.).

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I am trying to map out some 4-wheeler trails on some land that I ride on.

I am also mapping ATV trails, but I'm creating a trail network then adding it to the original TOPO Canada map I then upload the modified map to my GPS. These trails are now part of the map just like the roads etc in the original topo map. The best part is the software is free and you don't have to have any other maps like TOPO to create your own trail networks. If you are interest I could try to explain how it's done.

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I am also mapping ATV trails, but I'm creating a trail network then adding it to the original TOPO Canada map I then upload the modified map to my GPS. These trails are now part of the map just like the roads etc in the original topo map.

 

Is the auto-routing capability of the Topo-Canada maps preserved in this process?

If so, then, yes, I would definitely be interested in hearing the details.

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I am trying to map out some 4-wheeler trails on some land that I ride on.

I am also mapping ATV trails, but I'm creating a trail network then adding it to the original TOPO Canada map I then upload the modified map to my GPS. These trails are now part of the map just like the roads etc in the original topo map. The best part is the software is free and you don't have to have any other maps like TOPO to create your own trail networks. If you are interest I could try to explain how it's done.

 

Yes, yes...please tell us more. I'm am avid snowmobiler and a member of the Hardcore Sledder (www.hardcoresledder.com) forum. A group of guys there are working on this same concept for our local snowmobile trail network, and they would be very interested to know the best/easiest way to accomplish this.

Man, this forum just rocks!

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Yes, yes...please tell us more. I'm am avid snowmobiler and a member of the Hardcore Sledder (www.hardcoresledder.com) forum. A group of guys there are working on this same concept for our local snowmobile trail network, and they would be very interested to know the best/easiest way to accomplish this.

Man, this forum just rocks!

 

Also check out Snowmobile Trails. Click on "Trail Reports" then, "Lake City trails", and then on either of the two maps at the top of the page.

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Yes, yes...please tell us more. I'm am avid snowmobiler and a member of the Hardcore Sledder (www.hardcoresledder.com) forum. A group of guys there are working on this same concept for our local snowmobile trail network, and they would be very interested to know the best/easiest way to accomplish this.

Man, this forum just rocks!

 

Also check out Snowmobile Trails. Click on "Trail Reports" then, "Lake City trails", and then on either of the two maps at the top of the page.

 

Yes, sorry Grasscatcher...didn't mean to leave you out. I did check out your site, and that is exactly what we are trying to accomplish for our snowmobile trail network, and then make it a tranparent master map we can all upload/use on our GPSr. We're not so worried about it being routable at this time, but that would be icing-on-the-cake for sure!

P.S. Great job on the trail map...looks awesome!

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I am also mapping ATV trails, but I'm creating a trail network then adding it to the original TOPO Canada map I then upload the modified map to my GPS. These trails are now part of the map just like the roads etc in the original topo map. The best part is the software is free and you don't have to have any other maps like TOPO to create your own trail networks. If you are interest I could try to explain how it's done.

 

Yes, yes...please tell us more. I'm am avid snowmobiler and a member of the Hardcore Sledder (www.hardcoresledder.com) forum. A group of guys there are working on this same concept for our local snowmobile trail network, and they would be very interested to know the best/easiest way to accomplish this.

Man, this forum just rocks!

 

Thanks for your interest, I will try to get the info on here in the next day or two.

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Well I finally got the chance to write up how I create trail networks that I add to the original TopoCanada maps.

But first I would like to say that these steps are how I create a basic trail network map,

so please remember that this is only meant for information purposes only and should not be taken

as the correct or best method to do it.

Well here goes…

 

Required software: (free on the net)

- MapSource (came with your Garmin GPSr)

- TopoFusion

- GPSmapedit

- cgpsmapper

 

 

1. MapSource

- Download your GPSr tracks with MapSource

- Clean up the tracks in MapSource

- Click file > Save as a .gpx file

 

2. TopoFusion

- Open the saved MapSource .gpx file with TopoFusion

- Click analysis > make network > make network

- Click the two little flags on the tool bar to toggle the waypoints (turn them off)

- Click file > Save as a .gpx

 

3. GPSmapedit

- Start GPSmapedit

- Click file > open > select the map from the garmin folder that you want to modify. (In my case for TopoCanada it was C:\Garmin\CT2\00105050.img)

- Click file > add > select the file you saved with TopoFusion

- Click edit >select all tracks

- Right Click on a track > convert file > polyline > select level (this is for the zoom level I select all three levels) >object type (I use walkway/trail) > ok

- Click edit > select > all tracks (now press your delete key this will remove the tracks and leaves the vector object trails)

- Click file > save as > polish format

- Click file > export > Garmin IMG / cgpsmapper.exe (use the file name of the original map in my case it is 00105050)(you will have to point GPSmapedit to where you saved cgpsmapper.exe on your hard drive)

 

4. Go to the Garmin folder where the original map was located and rename it (in my case I renamed 00105050.img to 00105050org.img)

 

5. Now copy the file you created in GPSmapedit (export) to the Garmin folder where the original map was located.

 

6. Upload the modified map using MapSource as you would any other map. (MapSource and your GPSr will think it’s the original map as long as you used the original file name and put it in the original folder)

 

Making your own maps is a lot of fun, so I hope this info helps you get started.

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Why shoould I not save it before sending it to the PC? Thanks!

So for maximum accuracy it's best to do the download directly from the Active Log to your PC and *not* to save it first on the GPS.

This is sound advice! When you save tracks the 76 also throws away points to get down to 500 and it throws away all the time and speed info. Download the active log to your PC.

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