Logscaler and Red
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Posts posted by Logscaler and Red
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As a kid we just used the fiddle heads off the Sword or Bracken ferns.
The stalk worked ok but the heads killed the sting within a couple minutes.
But then again, Poison Oak has no effect on me either.
Logscaler
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Solved all the problems and Vista work well with NG TOPO!
How did you get it to work? I haven't tried yet, but I just got a new screamer laptop with Vista and I'll be needing to install TOPO. Any tips?
First thing to do is go to the N.G. TOPO! website and download this update, :TOPO! 428.
The update assumes that your already running 4.xx version software.
Here is the e-mail I got from NG TOPO! support:
"Download Size: 6 MB
When downloading the 4.2.8 upgrade, first save the file to your desktop, close TOPO!, open the file on your desktop and run it.
When you restart TOPO!, verify the upgrade was successful by clicking on the 'Info' tab from the menu bar, and selecting 'About TOPO!'.
If you would like to copy the Map data discs to your hard drive, please follow the instructions below:
Open Topo!
Click View > TOPO! Product Setup > Copy Data CD-ROMs to Hard Drive...
You will be prompted to insert a TOPO! Data CD to copy, then click 'OK'
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INSTALLING ON A WINDOWS VISTA PC:
When installing software, Vista may ask you to 'Allow' the installer program to run, and might require you to enter an administrator password to proceed. Follow the on-screen instructions, allowing Vista to run the setup.exe installer.
You should be able to install to the suggested 'Program Files' location, but if you experience any problems with this, please click the 'Browse...' button during installation and change the install location to the following: "c:\users\public\topo!". This will allow any user account on the PC to run the application.
If the program icon does not appear in the Windows Start menu, you can add one manually by right-clicking on the program icon and choosing 'Pin to Start Menu'. Locate the program icon by clicking 'Start > Computer' and browsing into the install folder (usually at "c:\program\files\topo!").
After installing, we suggest that you check for updates by visiting our website at:
http://maps.nationalgeographic.com/topo/upgrades.cfm
If you have trouble running an update that you have downloaded from this website, try right-clicking on its icon and choosing 'Run as Administrator'. This will allow Windows Vista to properly update the application and related files.
I hope this information assists.
Please include all previous correspondence with your reply"
That was it in a nutshell, so to speak.
I found it worked best just to save straight to the "c:\users\public\topo!" file. Makes it easy to find later on.
After that, it is pretty much the same as loading the files to a 98 or XP machine. Copy and past.
The biggest problem I found I had was when I transfered all the files from the old laptop to the new one, I got as many as 16 copies of some files, including TOPO!, worth around 16G of space. By time I found ALL the files, I pretty much had to wipe all the TOPO! files from the computer and start over. They where scattered all through the machine.
But then, if your not running a GPSr that already has a usb cable, then you need to get the usb cable and find the right drivers, the right com port and to remember to plug the GPSr in AFTER you start TOPO! or the laptop might see the GPSr as a second mouse. That will really drive you crazy as the mouse runs around opening different programs faster then you can close them.
I know, rambling on but I hope it helps.
If not, contact me and I will see if I can explain it differently.
Hope that helps.
Logscaler.
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Solved all the problems and Vista work well with NG TOPO!
Even updated all the maps and roads.
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Anyone else using the Windows Vista on a laptop with the National Geographic TOPO! State Series and the 4.xx updates?
New HP Pavilion dv6000 with VISTA and the latest drivers and updates.
I can not get some of the cd's to copy to the hard drive, some copy part way and some will not even spin.
They all work fine in both the XP laptop and the XP desktop.
I had to change the com port on the gps to 6 for the laptop to find it and it will locate on a partial map but once I scroll off the part that is installed, the program freezes and I have to close out and start the program again.
I have two sets of the Oregon TOPO! cd's and both sets act the same in the laptop. Have not even tried the rest of them yet.
I did end up getting a serial - USB cable to connect the laptop to the old 330M which works just fine.
Thanks for any good advice.
Logscaler.
I wish you good luck with vista because your going to need it. Vista not only is a huge resource hog its not compatible with many many programs. Your best bet is to go back to xp if possible and wash your hands of vista atleast until more programs have patches . I just went through my own situation with vista and am happy to say GOODBYE to vista.
Yes, I have kept the XP machine just for this mapping reason.
Working some of the bugs out by just playing with the dang thing.
Anyone else have advise?
Other then get a Garmin? Which I understand has its own troubles with Vista.
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Anyone else using the Windows Vista on a laptop with the National Geographic TOPO! State Series and the 4.xx updates?
New HP Pavilion dv6000 with VISTA and the latest drivers and updates.
I can not get some of the cd's to copy to the hard drive, some copy part way and some will not even spin.
They all work fine in both the XP laptop and the XP desktop.
I had to change the com port on the gps to 6 for the laptop to find it and it will locate on a partial map but once I scroll off the part that is installed, the program freezes and I have to close out and start the program again.
I have two sets of the Oregon TOPO! cd's and both sets act the same in the laptop. Have not even tried the rest of them yet.
I did end up getting a serial - USB cable to connect the laptop to the old 330M which works just fine.
Thanks for any good advice.
Logscaler.
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Here a couple years ago, I sat down one week and "logged" a few dozen "Virtual" Caches by just searching the internet.
Then I sent the "how" I did it to the cache owners and then deleted my logs.
Several of those caches have new requirements now to varify the person was really there.
All about the numbers for some people.
Logscaler.
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Wow.
Never even thought of it.
We turned " 5 " in May.
Getting old I guess.
Logscaler and Red
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CFM, good to hear from you. Still coming to the Star Party?
Lots of answers I can give you but I would rather talk over a campfire or sitting on a bluff looking over the High Desert. I have a magazine I will save you a copy of to read.
As for the Juniper question. No protection. Nada. Zip. Zero. The new Pronghorn development in Bend? Ripped out a Square Mile of jumipers. Some where in the 1000 year old range if they where typical of the trees in the general area. But we needed another Golf Course any way, didn't we? What, that makes somethimng like 50 golf course in Central Oregon?
Did you know that when doing logging or thinning or stream enhancement on public land, you can cut ANY diameter juniper anywhere it is found yet you can not cut any COMMERCIAL VALUE tree over 21 inches dbh? The COMMERCIAL VALUE tree could be a White Fir that is only 80 years old - or less yet is over 21 inches dbh where the Juniper - NON COMMERCIAL VALUE tree - could be 25 inches and several hundreds of years old. Get the idea yet? Those enviro factions only consider COMMERCIAL VALUE trees. Wonder why? Acres. It is easy to isolate a few pockets of Old Growth Doug Fir and say "Save this Tree!" Juniper? There are tens of thousands of acres of old Junipers but they stick to the things that fit their agenda, not the true facts.
As for the fish thing.
If you listen to both sides, you will see where neither side has any idea wht their talking about.
I asked those same few question in e-mails to the enviro factions and have had ALL me e-mail address blocked by the enviros. Earth First!? Blocked. Serria Club? Blocked. 1000 friend of Oregon? Blocked.
Another question you need to think about. What makes people think that the fish runs are dieing off and going to go extinct? They are basing their theory on what? A hundred years of fish runs? Or Less?
What say we ask this question. Can they prove that those fish runs they claim are dying where/are not an artifically high population and the fish runs are now getting back to normal?
Just look to the MASSIVE DIE OFF of the Elk on St. Helens this last winter. Why? Toooo many critters for the feed base. Have you ever seen any deer or Elk on those lands behind closed gates? Could it be there is plenty of food? Old Growth Forest support very little wildlife compaired to the life that open forest can.
Anyway, lets chat in June. We can even get PMOGUY and MadJack and Bulldog involved.
Logscaler.
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And just what is wrong with the logging of that chunk of ground?
It will regrow. Or would you rather se it just burn and suck money out of your pocket?
Or would you rather use steel to build houses with, which when your done, all you have to show for it is a hole in the ground. Regrow iron ore.
Yes, I do have a dog in the fight, so to speak.
The timber industry pays my way.
The timber industry also pays a lot of "hidden" money towards wages, taxes, school bills - I always get a kick out of College students protesting higher tuition’s yet protesting logging the State and National Forest that pay part of the cost of their education - road upkeep, etc that you never hear about. Seek the information and you will be surprised what you will find out.
Also, why do you think the roads into these areas are here for in the first place? Let's close and remove ALL the roads built for logging and see what happens to your drive to work.
Understand that the United States will need "X" amount of wood fiber per year and it WILL come from somewhere.
So let me ask a few questions that relate to this issue.
Would you rather do selective logging under strict controls here in the States or have the Third World countries rape their lands with no controls? Which is the greater evil?
Which would you rather do to get 15,000 board feet of lumber?
Take out a couple stagnant "old growth" trees that will more then pay for their removal;
that will release nutrients and sunlight for the younger trees;
that open up ground for shrubs and forbs for wildlife to feed on;
that will pay for the replanting of the ground;
that will help towards future reforestation projects;
that will help pay for stream enhancements;
that will help pay for road work;
that will drop a few dollars into the public coffers to help pay for schools;
that will have little impact on the ground;
that will only require three truck trips on the road - giving an average of 5,000 bdft per truck load, etc.
OR?
Log 1500 trees with an average of 100 bdft per tree;
that will maybe break even for their removal, putting zero dollars towards anything else?;
that will require hundreds of trips over the ground to harvest them;
that will require impact over hundreds of acres to harvest them;
that will require thousands of gallons of fuel to harvest and transport them;
that will require thousands of more man hours to process them;
that will have more waste to deal with;
etc, etc,etc.
Your pockets will have to pay taxes to pay for everything else. Or do without.
OR?
Ship in 15,000 bdft from Central America, South America, Russia where there is no control over the logging,
road building, reforestation, safety of the workers, etc.
Also, I need to ask a few question's like:
1) What makes an "Old Growth" Tree?
Species?
Diameter?
Height?
Age?
Location?
Commercial Value
2) How much physical ground does it take to make an "Old Growth" Forest?
3) How many "Old Growth" Trees does it take to make an "Old Growth" forest.
4) Why do people have a problem taking out a second growth Douglas Fir Tree that is 100 years old and 21 + inches in diameter to build homes with yet these same people have no problem removing a Western Juniper Tree that is 1,000 plus years old and 15 inches in diameter to open up a chunk of ground to build a home made of raped over third world country lumber on?
5) Why are Western Juniper not on any "Old Growth" list? Or any Juniper Species?
Oh, to those "Higher Education" types who protest logging yet bitch about the cost of their education, you can't learn everything out of a book nor by listening to people who have an agenda and will only tell you one side of the story.
A couple final points:
In Oregon, schools used to get a lot - (most?) - of their money from timber and very little from property taxes. Now, as I understand it, better then 50 percent of the tax's collected in Oregon will go towards school funding. And that will not be enough.
Now that I have said all that, I know I will have made a few (more) enemies - whats new? - but I hope I have also asked a few questions to make you raise an eyebrow and go "huh?"
Logscaler.
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I spent most of this past Sunday with a shovel, hatchet and ax trying to remove shrubs and saplings that have gone astray on my property. Took me three hours of work when all I really needed was a thumb tack.
The ideas posted have been done and I think they are still good. But a larger cache in a good spot I would say is still better.
The thumbtack I use is made by "Stihl". Fact is, right now I have a pile about 8 feet high, 12 feet wide and 20 feet long that "Stihl" made this last weekend.
enfanTerrible:
I do respect your time and effort in achieving the Master Gardener status. A well earned achievement in anyones books. I still do not buy into the theory of thumbtacks but I will let it lay. I have seen way to much more in trees that have no effect on trees. The biggest difference I see is we are dealing with different Species. The trees I deal with have bark upto 9 inches thick. It would take one hell of a thumbtack. Everything else has massive amounts of pitch. Year around it seems.
Enough said on the subject in this forum I think. If you wanna go further, PM me and we will chat.
As for cache hides, Micros are easy to hide and easy to wimp out on to place. I am in the process of reworking all my micros and hope to not have any after the summer is over with. I will also be doing away with virtuals as well.
Logscaler.
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I guess I should have been more specific about the guardrail item.
Use the blocks on abandoned roads. Ones that have been turned into bike paths or hiking paths or where a new section of road has bypassed the old roadway. The same for bridges as well.
Better? There are plenty of places
I do not condone getting anyone needlessly into traffic or in too much of a compromised position.
I find it far more hazardous trying to get through the parking lots looking under skirts for micros.
But why micros? Seeing as they are not really caches anyway, kinda like virtuals but that is another thread......
Why not see how big of a cache you can hide instead? Try and place a shoebox sized container in a parking lot. I have one that has been in a parking lot at a Target store for over a year. No problems yet. Yes, I have permission and the security guys know about it and where it is at.
enfanTerrible, nothing hateful has been said. Yet anyway.
You voiced a book learned opinion as a gardner stateing it as a fact covering a broad spectrum. I voiced a counter opinion using 35 years of experience in the woods and logging industry.
You made the statement about being arrogant. I countered it.
Wanna keep going or call a truce?
logscaler.
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A thumbtack? A THUMBTACK?? You are kidding, right?
No.
Uh, wrong.
What makes you believe this idea anyway?
My certification as a Master Gardener. (Androscoggin County Maine, 2004)
Beside, he said HOLLOW! Don't you think there might already be some decay going on here?
Some. Kinda arrogant to appoint oneself to finish the job, don't you think?
IF a THUMBTACK is going to hurt your trees, All I have to say is Main must have some very sorry species of trees.
AHH! I see the line about Master GARDENER. That explains it.
Your not talking about trees, your talking about SHRUBS and ORNAMENTAL tree wannabe's. I see we are talking about two different things now. More harm is being done to your trees by the air they have to try and clean then any little thumbtack will ever do.
As for being arrogant, I have no problem culling the herd, so to speak.
Why should I let the weak destroy the strong by taking resources they can not use? If I thin out the hollow decayed trees, if I take out the misletoed trees, if I take out the snow broke trees, if I take out the red needle trees, that lets the healtier trees have more, therefore making them stronger.
Let me ask you a question. In your garden trees, what do you do with trees you find a blight in? What do you do with your trees that you find aphids on? Misletoe? Cankers? Galls? Root rot? Stem rots? Ants?
Just let them go? Yea, right. You protect them.
Heck, I will bet you even graft trees to try and get a better strain to handle any pest or rots or to get a better fruit.
Why? Kinda ARROGANT playing GOD isn't it?
logscaler.
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Don't put a thumbtack in a tree. Any wound, however small, invites insects & disease and is destructive to nature.
ETA some trees look dead but they might not be. It's not up to us to decide.
A thumbtack? A THUMBTACK?? You are kidding, right?
Uh, wrong.
What makes you believe this idea anyway?
Beside, he said HOLLOW! Don't you think there might already be some decay going on here?
If you had seen the things I have found in trees that I have scaled or seen run through a sawmill, you would have to rethink this idea. Things like Mule shoes, Horse shoes, guns, tri-cycles, musket balls, .50 caliber armor piercing rounds, .45 caliber rounds, .30 caliber rounds, nails, spikes, railroad spikes, bolts, metal fence post, fence wire, bailing wire, pipe, car fenders, bumpers, iron wagon wheel rims, bikes, rocks, ceramic insulaters, angle iron, sheet metal, Elk antlers, Deer antlers, etc.
If a tree is healthy, it will pitch over a wound to protect itself.
Thanks for the laugh.
Now as for the cache ideas.
It is very easy to hide a micro.
It is very easy to hide an evil micro.
Put a Magnetic micro onto the side of a tree with a screw and a washer, cover the micro with moss or old bark - use expanding foam to make a cacoon around the cache and stick the moss and or bark to that while it is wet. Make sure the tree is close to something metal. Like an old bridge or something.
Find a guardrail with a buffer block between the metal rail and the anchor post, bore a hole into the bottom of the cushion block, predrill a small diameter hole into the the bored hole, screw a washer up into the hole, glue a magnet to the bottom or top of a film can, put a logsheet into the container and stick it into the hole. Make sure the hole is bored deep enough that the container is not showing. State into your cache page the "Your looking for a MAGNETIC micro cache." That will throw everyone off most of the time. Unless someone is packing a mirror on a stick.
Find a dead limb, cut it off very carfully, get a dowel, bore out the stub and the limb with a hole the size of the dowel, glue the dowel into the tree end, write the coords for the next stage on the dowel and slip the limb end over the dowel.
Find an old outhouse in the woods, use a cordless drill to pre-drill a hole in the underside of the seat boards, screw a lag hook into it, tie off a line to the lag hook, tie a cache to the line, tie a loop into the line to hang the cache from.
Useing expanding foam, place a cache container upside down on a sheet of newspaper, spray the foam around the container and shape it into a rock for. Buy several colors of spray paint in your local area ground cover colors, pack the fake rock out into a boulder field, color the fake as close to native as possible and sit the cache down just anywhere out in the open.
Find a tree that will bear large cones for several years, take one off, bore a hole into it that a micro cache will fit into. screw a picture hook onto the limb where the cone came oof from, glue a picture hook loop onto the cone and rehang it on the limb.
Find a large boulder with a bore hole in it from when the rock was drill for blasting. Make sure it does not go all the way through or is blocked off. Glue a magnet to the top of a cache container and drop it into the hole.
Or you could get some real evil ideas that will tic people off. I like the fake dog pile ones, the fake cow pies - or even the real cow piles that have been dried out and scrapped out with a cache hidden inside it, the fake stump, Fake birdhouse 20 feet up a tree, etc.
Logscaler.
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Sorry, but everyone's view is completely subjective. If your cache is trash and I find it, it's CITOed. If your cache is lame and I find it, it's logged "Found it." If your cache violates the guidelines and I find it, I'll SBA it. Just the way I play. Don't like it? Lump it. I never ask permission to CITO on public property. If you define Cache Police in that manner, I'm pleased to have the title. Police isn't exactly a dirty word, eh?
I have to agree with the intent of your message, maybe not the way it comes across but the intent.
On review of my caching habits, I do the same and I bet a lot more people play this way them realize it or will admit to it.
Sounds elitist but that is the way it is in the real world.
Logscaler.
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It looks to me like people are drifting away from the subject.
As I read it, the question is how to prevent poor quality caches from being placed, not about what the cache is like when you found it.
Ripping someone a new one in a log will more then likely just get you a "deleted" notice.
It would from me anyway.
Word of mouth will do more for getting cachers to place a good cache then anything else.
Yes, I know, there are those cachers out there just after the numbers and will hunt any and all caches no matter what their experince with that cachers hides where like in the past. So be it.
That is them. It is up to the rest of us to hold to a higher standard.
No, I do not mean putting an SBA on a cache just because you did not like it. What I mean is for you to punch the "IGNORE" button and spread the word about your experience with the cacher in question. After a while, if everyone in the area stops hunting those caches, if all they get from out of towners is TNLNSL or something like that, they just might get the idea that there is something wrong with their caches.
If not, are you missing out on anything that you could not live without? Take a chill pill and relax a little. A bad cache is not the end of the world as we know it.
Another nickels worth.
Logscaler.
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In this other thread, SerenityNow brought up the point, "The responsibility of monitering the quality is in the approvers hands"
Is it really? Can a cache approver really know what the "quality" of a cache is by looking at the cache page? Can anyone?
What makes a cache high or low quality? Is it the wording on the cache page? How about the fancy graphics some people add to it? Is the quality determined by the container? The location? The proximity to some historic site?
How do you know until you get there?
If it's not the cache reviewer's job to judge quality, then it must be up to the people that find the cache. Certainly the finders will give an honest description of the quality in their logs.
Wait, you mean they don't want to hurt the hider's feelings by telling the truth?
Great, then how are we supposed to discourage low-quality caches?
Peer pressure.
Local cachers swapping ideas at events will express what kind of caches will be accepted by the local caching community.
Pull no punches on your logs ONLY if you have a personal relationship with the cache hider. IE, chatted at events, hunted caches together, exchanged cache ideas, etc. Some people are very thin skinned these days and will take offense very easy.
If you have a lot of people signing your cache with only "TNLNSL", you might want to re-think your cache.
Yes, there is a spot for the drive by micro's for those who have physical limitations, kids, mobility problems, etc.
If you placed a micro cache at a historical locations, when that is the purpose to bring people to a location, maybe a "Waypoint" would be better served at these areas instead now that there is a website for this very thing.
There is also a spot for micro's in muggle prone area's. After all, who want's to loose a full sized cache when you could just loose a film can? At these locations, I tend to make a multi-stage cache hunt where possible.
The challange is to place a quality cache in areas you would want to bring people to.
Some people are just not up to the challange of placing a quality cache.
Some of us can think outside the box, other just outside a film can.
My nickels worth. If you want change, meet me on the trails somewhere.
Logscaler.
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Well for myself, I went to Radio Shack and picked up a three socket 12 volt power port and hard wired it into the battery at the fuse block under the hood, with a 30 amp inline fuse.
I also have hard wired into the battery at the fuse block a 400 watt 12 volt - 110 volt converter for my laptop, also with a 30 amp fuse. (I think it is a 30, might be more.)
The three way socket had a couple mounting holes to get it up off the floor and the converter just sits on the tunnel in the pickup or the floor in the car.
Check what watts you need to run your laptop. I had a 50 watt converter but the new laptop needs a 75, hence I went big and got the 400 watt. It will also let me use a printer and a laminator if need be. Yes, I do pack them with me. Just incase.
I can also plug in the charger for the rechargable batteries, cordless drill, charger for the hand radios, etc.
Just be careful where you run the wires through the firewall. Put your inline fuse as near the battery as possble, that way if you do get a short, it will pop the fuse near the power source and prevent a fire in the firewall area or under the dash.
Logscaler.
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I have also been looking into the LED night cache or with fiber optics.
Then I came across This web page. Not sure if it is in here yet but......
Maybe they have some ideas we can borrow from.
Logscaler.
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The Wit and Wisdom of Dan Quayle
"We are ready for an unforeseen event that may or may not occur."
"It is wonderful to be here in the great state of Chicago."
"I was recently on a tour of Latin America, and the only regret I have was that I didn't study Latin harder in school so I could converse with those people."
"The loss of life will be irreplaceable." on the San Francisco earthquake.
"Republicans understand the importance of bandage between a mother and child." a speech on family values.
"It isn't the pollution that's harming the environment. It's the impurities in our air and water that are doing it."
"What a waste it is to lose one's mind. Or not to have a mind is being very wasteful. How true that is." At a fund raiser for the United Negro College Fund.
"I love California. I practically grew up in Phoenix."
"I stand by all the misstatements that I've made."
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Depending on where your staying - Sunriver or Bend, will make a difference of course but I would say to start with this one and spread out from there.
I just checked the Camera for Mt. B and it says there is 167 inches still so unless you wanna dig through 13 feet of snow, I would look for the caches closer to Bend instead.
Caches to look for that should keep you entertained in Bend are:
Control Point by sskamp (GCCDAC) - compare your numbers to the rest of the gang.
Lunch with a lone juniper by GeoKnievel & Redhawk (GCNQDE) - Tricky hide but not hard to find.
L.S.U.-Cheap Seats by legoboyjj (GCNW5H) - ANother tricky hide but still fun to do.
Quad Dam It Run Around by Logscaler and Red (GC46E9) - Only if you wanna drive around and see parts of Bend.
Cruise by the Creek 2 by bigeddy (GC63F7) - Just one of many very well placed caches in Shevlin Park. Pack a lunch for all day.
Osage by GeoKnievel & Redhawk (GCN103) - A nice hike in the forest to the Lava Flows.
I.H.S. # 4 - Boring Shoals by logscaler & Red (GCNKBZ) - Only if you want a challange.
Lava Free Island by Team Stolasz (GC47D0) - One of the better hikes in the lava fields but be ready for some real rough going. Take leather boots, leather gloves and First Aid supplies.
You could use L.S.U. - Cheap Seats as a center for caches in the Bend area.
If your in town Saturday April 1st, 2006, your more then welcome to come to the event cache we are having.
Sylvester's Fool-a-Palooza by Shotgun & Peashooter (GCTJFT)
Luck.
Logscaler.
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Myself, I would not have logged a second find unless the cache page changes with a new GC number.
That is now. In the past, I think I have logged one along this same line.
There is a moving cache here in Central Oregon. It has been "Grandfathered" in. I have logged it a couple times as it moves all over 32 sections of land. Not a new GC number but that is the "Spirit" of this cache and the way it was ment to be used and logged.
Does it bother me that snoogans has logged this cache twice? No. Should it? Some people fish with Flies, some with bait, some with dynamite, some with a net and some with bare hands. To each his own I guess.
This game is in flux and so am I.
I am setting tighter standards for MYSELF, not you or anyone else.
Old timer purist? Maybe. You set your level of ethics for yourself and I will set mine for me.
However I did log a cache twice once. It had been moved about 60 feet. I was passing by with family about a year after my first find, and I generally remembered a cache hidden at a rest area we stopped at. I had no info with me, but my granddaughter and I went to see if we could find it. It wasn't where I remembered it, but we expanded the search and found it 15 minutes later. I worked for that 2nd find so I logged it again.
'Lil Devil, a simple question.
If you had not found it a second time, would you have logged a DNF? Missing? Needs archived?
Logscaler.
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I have a guy who wanted to claim a "found it" on a cache that he took and turned into the Park Headquarters because he did not know what it was at the time.
He is a cop and a sliverslinger.
Must be a nice guy, right?
I politely asked him if he was going to replace the cache.
No response in close to a month so I was going to delete his find.
Guess what. He has deleted his account, let alone the find.
I guess I ticked him off by asking him to replace the cache.
Some people are thin skinned I guess.
Logscaler.
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Some of us are middle aged, heavier and not so agile. I also don't like ones placed by taller people (I'm 5'4") with no regard for short people.
I am also on the short side and I have half a dozen people who hide things HIGH just so as I have a hard time getting the cache.
No big deal, most of THEM are afraid of height's so I return the favor by placeing caches on the edges of cliffs where they have to hang their toes into space to find the cache. Looking down from a 100 plus foot cliff while trying to snag a cache makes the pucker factor go up a notch or two.
Fair is fair, Right?
Just find someway to return the "favor" and sit back and enjoy the dnf's.
Logscaler.
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It was easy for me fizzymagic seeing as we have no locationless caches to get in the way.
One thing that has been pointed out in a different forum.
In using your program - and by the way, thanks for publishing that, it makes for some interesting numbers - the DNF number is not a true reflection of your DNF's. This program can only list DNF's on your PQ where you have returned and located the cache. Anything else will not show, for obvious reasons.
You might want to make this topic a new thread, as it does stray away slightly from the OT.
Logscaler.
OK Old schoolers
in General geocaching topics
Posted
Place is falling apart again.
Finally had to jump to the last page and post.
It has been a couple days since I was here - responding to a forum topic - and as I see it, very little has changed.
Oh, Hello to RK. Don't I still owe you a beer for something or another? Back in Idaho yet?
Snoogans, I will one day get your way and find the bunker.
Old School v New School.
Why? I am "Old School" so to speak.
Isn't this "game" about doing something you enjoy?
I remember driving several hundred miles after work to fix a couple problem caches for a Tourist on Vacation. I won't do that now. But I will fix a cache if I am at it and there is a problem. Habit.
Not every cache has to be "WOW". Your WOW and my ??? could conflict. I Drive a Dodge, you drive a Chev. Big deal.
But on the other hand, "WHY HERE?" caches are a pain in the neck but I learn who to avoid.
As for the sorting issue.
I use a PQ, then GSAK and then load them all onto National Geographic TOPO! to check locations. Then we use the laptop to find our way around.
Yes, I also know which cachers will leave a good cache the majority of the time. Also which one tend to leave cruddy caches BUT in a good location. Then there are those that are just a PITA and who we choose to ignore.
Solutions?
I doubt if there is one and no amount of bickering - whining here will fix that. Period.
Most ratings are subjective - as has already been pointed out in way to may threads already.
I guess my question would have to be, What are you looking for in this game? Location? History? View? Numbers? Bragging rights?
Myself, I am after the respect of my fellow cachers who will say "There is a NEW logscaler cache out. Lets go."
I find that in reading the logs of the Old school cachers v the New crop of cachers, I might have set way to high of a benchmark for most of the newbies. Tough.
What ever you decide to do with or about caching, be it this site or another one, Just remember that you should be enjoying the game. If your not, then look to your hole card and see if you can be happy.
Logscaler.