jormeroid

I made my own for my Vista Cx. Here's how I did it.... http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php...t&p=3053856

Check out this post. It looks like it has fixes almost all of your problems (Joystick and LCD problems). It inspired me to take my Vista Cx appart and replace the cracked outer screen. It's a play by play teardown of a Vista. http://californication.mtbguru.com/2005/11...in-etrex-vista/ There are even links at the bottom of the article to Digikey to buy a new joystick. Hopefuly your handy with a soldering iron. For the record, if you are very careful with the sticky tape, I was able to save both pieces of mine and re-use them. Here is a link to my teardown and repair. http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=172724

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Don't know if you're still suffering from the cracked screen, but here's what I did to fix mine http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=172724

My Vista Cx did that once, it was receiving power from my PC, but not showing up as a device. I hadn't plugged the USB cable far enough into the GPS for all of the connections to be made. Pushed the plug all of the way in to the GPS, and it was fixed.

Here's what I did to repair my Vista Cx. Might be a similar process... http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php...p;#entry3053856 It wasn't too bad, but I'm a tinkerer. I tear stuff apart all of the time.

I picked the Vista Cx up on Ebay for $100, with the cracked screen. Time to fix it! Step one, follow these insructions to seperate the case halves. http://californication.mtbguru.com/2005/11...in-etrex-vista/ I was able to save both pieces of tape and the sticky gunk too! I didn't have to seperate the circuit boards to access the joystick, but there is 1 ribbon cable you have to detatch, it goes to the Micro SD slot. It's shown in the picture below in the middle left. Also, don't forget to take out the screw that's I circled in red so you can access the 'glass'. Now you can remove the circuit board, being careful not to damage the LCD. Now you can use a thin flathead screwdriver to seperate the cracked 'glass' from the case. Try to gently seperate them so you can use the old screen as a template. I scraped off the excess 'glue' from the case that was holding the old 'glass' in. Trace this image on to a thin piece of carboard, then cut it out. Test fit it until it fits well. I decided to use .060 inch Lexan to replace the screen. The original screen was .062 inches thick. I couldn't find the scratch resistant Lexan in that thickness. I picked the Lexan up at a local Hobby Shop (Radio Control Cars, Rockets, etc.) for $11. The Lexan has protective sheets on each side to protect it until your done working on it, then it peels off. Using your cardboard template, trace it on the Lexan. I used a utility knife to cut the general shape in to the Lexan. Then I used 120 grit sandpaper on my Dremel tool to finish shaping the Lexan until it fit in the case. I used 'Permenant 2 sided tape' to hold the new 'glass' in. I cut the tape to the right width, and placed them on the case section. Place tape around the entire perimiter. Then remove the protective film from both sides of the Lexan. Then insert the 'glass'. Now, just re-assemble everything just like you took it apart, and your done! A new screen for less than 20 bucks!