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H2OBob

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Everything posted by H2OBob

  1. I set my GPSr up to show Bearing, distance, and accuracy on the bearing page. some call it a 'compass' page, but it actually shows the direction to the cache in relation to your direction of travel. I usually check the map page too, to see if there is a trail or road that I can use to get closer to the cache. I've bushwhacked in through brush and briars, only to find that I could have driven to within 100 feet of the cache. When I get to within 500 feet, I get out the compass, and use it with the bearing to get really close. Then I usually just stop, and look around to identify any obvious hiding spots. I lay the GPSr down on a rock or log, and check those spots while the GPSr 'settles'. If I haven't found it by then, I go back to the GPSr, and get a more precise bearing and distance. That usually gets me within 10-15 feet. Sometimes, you just can't get a decent signal under the trees, so you have to change tactics. I go to two different places nearby, where I can get a good signal, and take two headings that will converge at about a 90 degree angle. I let the GPSr settle in well in both areas, to get the most accurate bearing. In my mind, I get a picture of the place where they intersect. that is a lot faster than trying to search a large area. And, if all else fails, I read the hint.
  2. First, the best tutorial for going paperless is HERE. It helped me a lot. The waypoint is actually the geocache's name that is assigned to it by GC.com, for example, GC123XX. The coordinates are the actual latitude and longitude of the cache that you load into your GPSr. A lot of people use the two terms interchangeably though, depending on the context. Yes, you can go paperless in stages. Right now, you can download the cache info to the PDA, and then enter the coordinates into the GPSr by hand. You'll need GSAK or Easygps (I like GSAK) to convert the pocket queries into a format that the PDA can read, and Cachemate to diaplay the info on the screen. There are links to both programs in the above linked page. After you get a GPSr that allows downloading caches, (I predict about a month.) You'll use GSAK or Easygps to load the coordinates into the GPSr. Hope this helped.
  3. I searched, but couldn't find anything on this, so if you know of a previous thread, clue me in. I'd like to have some way of setting up a cache page, and 'jazzing' it up with HTML before submitting it for review. Now, I know Photobucket had a site that let you practice HTML, but it's not there any more, and it allowed more code than GC.com allows in their pages. It would be nice to have a simplified "practice" page, using just the code that GC.com filters allow, where I could tune my cache page to look the way I want it, then copy it to MS Word and then onto the submission form. Is this possible/practical? Oh, yea, I'm HTML challenged...
  4. OK, I see what you mean. I don't think that Garmin intends mapsource to be used at that accuracy. The best distance /heading numbers that I could ever get, were when marking two waypoints, then using the distance/heading tool to get the info. You still only get whole degrees, though, so if it says 30 degrees, it could be anywhere between 29.5 and 30.5, assuming that it rounds at the.5 point. Also, consider that the distance is rounded to the nearest tenth of a mile, so you could be nearly a tenth of a mile off there, as well. You might fire off an email to garmin. they might be able to tell you more. Maybe someone else has has an idea.
  5. I assume you are talking about projecting a waypoint, which is sometimes used to make the cache harder to find by muggles. I'm not familiar with the Vista HCx, but on my Legend C, you input the direction and distance, and it projects the waypoint, then you "goto" that waypoint. the direction shouldn't change. I hope this helps. Maybe I'm off course a little.
  6. Yep, they can log the old caches under their new names. Just include a note saying that they were found while caching with their parents, to keep from confusing the cache owners. As occam said, it will be a trip down Memory Lane. I frequently go back to read the logs from caches that I've found, and it's brought back many fond memories.
  7. H2OBob

    Paperless

    You'll need a couple programs to help you go paperless. they're both availiable through the "resources" link at GC.com. The first is GSAK (Geocaching Swiss Army Knife), and it's used to organize the caches that you get in your pocket queries, and generate the files to load into your PDA. You'll also need Cachmate, which you'll use to organize the caches in your PDA. There are other programs, but these two are what I've found works best for me. Good luck going paperless, and if you have more questions, just ask them here!
  8. My old Legend C averages, and I use it every time I hide a cache. In the clear, I can get 5 foot or better accuracy. In the thick woods, I'll let it sit for a while, and usually get around 12 to 15 foot accuracy, depending on the satellite constellation at the time. Patience is the key. You might have to wait for 20 minutes to get the best signal.
  9. Remember that you will get more caches than you ask for, because there are usually 'child caches' included. These are the "extra" waypoints that include parking coordinates. My Garmin holds 500 waypoints, but I ask for 450. I'll get 20 to 25 extra waypoints, and still have room for marking my car before leaving it, or marking that 'special' spot where I want to put a cache.
  10. I think I'd go with the CD version, even if you have to use your work PC. Not that much trouble, as you load the maps you want, and don't need to reload unless you're taking a trip. The CD will probably outlast the SD card too, especially if you change GPSrs, and the new one doesn't support the SD card. Also, it's a little harder to lose a CD.
  11. Is there the possibility of a fur ranch nearby? There is one near me that raises foxes, and on a hot summer day, the stench can be terrible! The male foxes emit a strong scent. Mix this with scraps of rotting horse meat, and you have what it takes to lower the neighbor's property values.
  12. They are allowed, but permission is required, as always. See THIS LOG for one in n/w Pa. The reviewer asked the owner to supply proof of permission, and it was OK'd.
  13. No matter what you put on the cache page, there will be people that don't bother to read it. People are like sheep. They follow the path of least resistance, and they deepen the path. The only way to force them to go where you want them to go, is to archive it, and relist as a multi, with the first stage near the parking lot that you want them to use. I like multis, anyway. Like getting two caches for one price!
  14. I don't think there is a better 'regular' container than an ammo can, either .30 or .50 cal. I lean toward the .50, if it's hidable. Much more room for stuff. Of course, you have to use your head when hiding it. If it's a sensitive area, use a 'lock-n-lock'. As for micros, I'll nominate two good ones. First, the 'preforms' used for making soda bottles. They are about 5 inches long by 1 inch diameter, with a waterproof cap, and if you lose the cap, just get one from a soda bottle. Almost indestructible! Another is the plastic containers that Glucose Test Strips come in. Nearly impossible to get the lid on crooked, and there is a desiccant in the lid to keep things nice and dry. Cover either of these with cloth camo tape, and they are very hard to find!
  15. Get your user's manual out, and give Garmin Customer Service a phone call. They will treat you a lot better on the phone. I tried the email, and they said to send it in with a check for $125 as it was out of warranty. When I called them, the guy said they would fix it under warranty. They actually sent me a new unit free of charge!
  16. That's a great looking cake! It wasn't Spice, was it? I LOVE spice...
  17. Don't despair. I found one this summer that I'd been looking for for over a year! My GPSr was leading me astray for most of that time, and I was looking in the wrong area. Finally, after the owner updated the coords, and getting a clue, I found it. Micros in the woods can be difficult at times. Another tip: turn on the GPSr at least 15 minutes before you get there. The more time it has to get it's bearings, the more accurate it will be. Also, when you get to GZ, put it down, and walk away to look for a few minutes, then if you haven't found the cache, go back to the GPSr,(if you haven't lost it) add notice the heading and distance to the cache. This will probably be the best reading you get. Get out your compass (you DO have a good compass, don't you?), and pace off the distance in the correct heading. Mark that spot, and search the area. Remember, your GPSr has an accuracy error, and so does the one that the hider used. If yours is off only 5 feet, and the hider's was off 20 feet, The cache could be up to 25 feet from GZ. Don't give up! This is a great hobby, that has something for everybody.
  18. H2OBob

    Newbie

    Welcome aboard, Devon! I hope you and your brother have lots of fun together. If you need some help, or have any questions, this is the place. Happy caching!
  19. Actually, it's the owner's duty to maintain the cache. If I find a lot of useless junk in one of my caches, I clean it out and restock it. Finders are supposed to trade even or up, to keep the cache from degrading, but unfortunately, some people trade useless stuff for the 'goodies', so the average cache evolves into a box full of broken McToys, wet business cards and other trash. I think a cache should contain a variety of items that are attractive to both adults and children. If it's full of toys, with no room for anything else, I would take some toys out, and replace them with more adult items. At least, take out the broken/wet stuff.
  20. Hold onto that Palm for a while! If you do get hooked on caching, you will want It to store caches on. I used paper for a while too, until I realized that I was carrying over a hundred sheets of paper with me. I had Gallon sized freezer bags for each section of the area, and when I'd go caching, I'd take at least two of them along. Now, all I carry is my GPS, and PDA. The PDA gives me all the info on the cache page. The only limiting factor is the past logs, as it only has the last 5, but again, if you printed out the logs for some caches, you'd have a book! Besides, when it's raining, you can play Mahjonng in the car.
  21. Twenty caches without a GPSr is quite a feat in itself! I would urge you to get a good compass, if you don't already have one, and learn how to use it. It will help you zero in on the caches faster, and serve as a backup, in case your batteries go dead back in th woods. Always check it before leaving the jeep, and notice which way you have to go to get back. Another thing you will need soon, is pack to carry your "stuff" in. It should also have a water source. Either bottles or, what I prefer, a Camelback bladder. Your choice of vehicle couldn't be better. I plan on getting a Wrangler myself, soon. I'm not too far from you, so I hope to cross trails with you sometime. Happy Caching!!
  22. You can expect 5 to 7 foot accuracy, but only under optimum conditions. To check this, go to an open area on a clear day, when you can get at least 6 satellites locked on. Mark a waypoint, and average it, if your GPSr allows averaging, then walk some distance away, and "goto" that waypoint. Of course, when you are trying to find a cache, you must consider the hider's error too. Even if your GPSr is getting 5 foot accuracy, the hider may have only been getting 20 foot accuracy. That means that you may be up to 25 feet off. Your son is right about caches that are not allowed to be buried. Most cachers are quite responsible people, and do not mar the landscape with holes, however, if placed in a natural depression, and covered with bark or leaves, the effect is the same without harming the environment. To read more about the rules, go here: Requirements/Guidlines
  23. Sounds to me like you should give the GPSr to Missus R. Seriously, one thing you may find useful is a good compass with degree markings. May cost $10-$15, but will help you find those caches faster. I usually use the "arrow" page with the Heading, Distance, and Accuracy readouts. Use the compass and GPSr together. It will help a lot on those caches that are in the woods where your signal fades. You can "triangulate" from a good signal area. Have fun, and Good Hunting!
  24. Ellie has helped me find a few caches. I think she zeros in on the scent of the last person to visit the cache. Even then, I have to watch closely, because she doesn't bark or anything. She just acts 'interested'. I've been thinking of setting up her own account. That way, she would get recognition for her finds.
  25. eBay is probably the cheapest, but don't expect support from Garmin, as they assume that if you got it from eBay, it was stolen or pirated.
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