Snowwolf75

Meant for the fixed-in-place sun dials made from wood, metal, rock, etc. Possible subcategory for building-mounted dials like the one attached the Physics building of the University of Washington: http://www.phys.washington.edu/sundial.html

yeah, the details came out great. :}

I know this is a bit last-minute, but is anyone from the central or west Seattle area going to the WSGA meet in Monroe on Sat, that could take an extra person (me)?

okay, I guess I'm in. :}

Cool on both counts. I think I might lean toward filling it, then.

Well, depending on how 'cool' I make my art, I'm hoping they mostly get sold (though I will set aside some of the LE for trades, and the normal for placing in caches), so once sold what they do with them is up to them. Thinking on the art that I'll have, it will likely be better with black nickel... but with the other metal I can fake that with a black fill. hmm....

Thanks for the input (emails and PMs too). Here's what I've gleaned so far: Black nickel can chip or ding easily, making it not so good for traveling coins. I was planning on doing two different metals (about 150/350 split), so do people think it'd be better to make the LE coins in black nickel and pick something more durable for the larger percentage of coins? Comments are about equal for CoinsAndPins and Oak... I really need to get the art near completion so I can get quotes from them both. This would give me more information to decide which to go with. Thank you for the links to various images of black nickel coins (EvilChicken and the PA coins). One side of my coin will have large color areas (like EC's) while the other will have smaller color areas (like PA). Again, the art is the key to deciding how to do things. If you have anymore information, don't hesitate to contact me. I still havn't seen how well etched tracking numbers work with the black nickel finish. Can they fill an area with color, then etch the numbers through it?

I have a custom geocoin in the early planning phases (two sided 2-D, 4 colors per side, trackable plus custom icon), but I'd like some clarification on a few points. Black nickel ... are there good examples around of what it looks like and how colors blend with it? Does it have a pantone value, so that I can calibrate my design process? I noticed the past two geocoins I've had are 1.5" across.. so does that mean the new fad of micro-coins are 1"... or are they smaller? I'm kinda waffling between OakCoins (cheaper and easier to get a quote) versus CoinsAndPins (lots more information and seemingly more professional). Does anyone have reviews about those two, or any other really good minters?

I imagine choices would be first-come-first-served... so only one cacher per idol and vice-versa. Only problem is if not enough people sign up. So to sign up, do you need to donate something?

Okay, I'll take it off my geo-watchlist for now, then... but keep this topic tracked, just in case.

And here I am with an actual question (or two) about the guidelines: Firstly, what comprises the "geocaching.com logo"?? Is it the four-part design in the upper left of their main page (which also serves as tab-bar icon), or is it the G-with-plus-inside doodle? If it is the four-part color design, it be okay to use the colors only in a coin design, laid out like they are in the logo, but without the black drawing over it? Secondly, is there any restrictions to using the G-with-plus-inside in a coin design?

One of mine slipped thru the cracks: Fair enough. Any idea on the timeframe of that?

Fair enough. Any idea on the timeframe of that?

I have a coin in the (mental) planning stages that will have a wolf on it, plus hopefully a paw as an icon. If I'm lucky (or driven) I could mint it in a month or so.

Neat idea. :} I added it to my watch list, so hopefully it can makes its way up to Washington sometime in the future. One thing I noticed is that Icon SP's account isn't indicitive of which icons you get from Icon HO. I counted the coins (listed) on the page and only came out to 24-ish, where SP has almost 60. It was a bit of a disappointment, but I'd still like to get it.

I changed my mind... #275 would be more for me.

I will be placing an order soon as I can get some money in the bank (Thurs or Fri), for just one. If 75 (or 175) is still available as a number, i'd like that one. {EDIT} My check came in today's mail, so I'll be depositing it momentarily and will be able purchase one later tonight. {EDIT2} Done ordering

While I don't normally congradulate myself, noone else wants to do it for me. On Jan 27 I managed to snag my 100th. It may not seem like much, but I do what I can with my limited resources. Here's to the next hundred. :}

Glad you asked. Analogdog started this get-together of cachers a couple weeks ago as a Saturday morning group cache gang. It usually starts at 8:00 am Saturdays and ends around noon. After that, some people leave and others continue on as they like. Feel free to join Analogdog and whomever else shows up. I recomend that if you do choose to join him, let him know here. Piffle... I'm busy Saturday. Maybe if something was happening on Sunday I could join.

Gonna be doing this most on Saturday or sunday?

Now, see.. that I didn't know. Ah well, I hope it can wait till spring. The remainder of my month is going to be _very_ busy every weekend... about the only chance is a quick day trip on one day of the last weekend, but I'm not holding my breath.

dadgum me and my idiot brain.. thought this was being planned for November, not October. Couse, I was sick with a cold esterday anyway, so I suppose it's for the better. Hmm... I wonder if I could get to that P&R by bus...

Drat.. I missed this. I've been thinking about doing that Ape cache sometime, but havn't checked the forums in ages. As it was, I spent the day with a friend caching in the Seattle/Bellevue area.

SY2622 references a 'fin nail' in both a highline pole and utility pole. SY2612 mention another fin nail in a tree, even giving an estimation of vertical distance. However, that note was in 1966, so likely it'll be quite a ways up now. Also, when a mark is mentioned as sub-surface, like in SY2776, would it mean under dirt, a steel plate, or something else?

Some of the benchmarks I'd like to go after reference a "FIN NAIL IN HIGHLINE POLE" .. "finish nail in highline pole" is what it says to me, but the only thing I can think of related to a "highline pole" would be a power pole. If that's true, how would I know where the "finish nail" on it is?