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Everything posted by royta

  1. I don't get out and geocache everyday. I even let my premium member status lapse last January, as I just don't have the time. However, I'll renew my status again this summer. The way I have been geocaching is by running a pocket query and loading it into my GSAK version 6.6.4. I never did pay for the newer version as the old one seems to work just fine for me. Then I export a .gpx file to my Dell Axim and use either GpxView or GpxSonar to be able to use paperless caching. For my GPS, I used to use a Garmin 60CS and now use the 60CSx. I like this method, as I then have my geocache database on my PC. I don't have a bunch of conflicting programs. I'm simply using the same exact information as found on GSAK, although an exported version. I realize it is important for me to keep running new PQ's, importing to GSAK, exporting to .gpx, then copying over to paperless caching device. I don't want the big database on my paperless caching device, because it's just too vulnerable to damage. I don't want the chance of losing the information. Keep it safe...keep it on my PC with GSAK. I am picking Moto Droid soon, maybe even today. I want a geocaching app that doesn't replace my 60CSx, nor GSAK version 6.6.4. I plan on just using the Droid as the replacement for the Axim, meaning I'll just use it as a paperless caching device. I do not wish it to replace my GPS. I do not wish to lay my Droid down in the rocks or dirt like I do my GPS. Any suggestions?
  2. 12CX user from Christmas 1999 to December 2004 60CS user from December 2004 to August 2008 60CSx user from August 2008 to present I still have the 12CX, but am trying to sell the 60CS.
  3. I purchased this GPS unit brand new in December of 2004. I've picked up a few geocaches and created a few cool mountain bike routes with this GPS unit. I've used it with MapSource City Select maps so that I could enter addresses and have it tell me how to get to them. While mountain biking, this GPS has not been used on a handlebar mount. It has always been in my camelbak, as I was always afraid it might get damaged on the handlebars. I like to take good care of my gear. There is absolutely nothing functionally wrong with this unit. There is some keypad wear, which can be visible on the "IN", "OUT", and "ENTR" buttons. There are no gouges in the case or screen, but there might be a few scuffs. The only item missing from the original box contents is the belt clip, which I misplaced some time ago. To get this unit ready for sale, I've performed a "hard reset" and loaded the original "Americas Marine POI Database" maps back on. This unit's maps are now just as it was when it left the Garmin factory. I took a few pictures shown below, which I hope shows everything you care to see. However, if there's something else you'd like to see a picture of, please let me know and I will get them either added to this thread or emailed to you as soon as I possibly can. I do ask that you give me your information so that I can contact Garmin and have this unit changed from my name to yours. I'll do USPS Money Order and PayPal, but only PayPal if you pay via your PayPal Balance, PayPal Instant Transfer or PayPal eCheck. I do not have a PayPal Premier Account, nor do I want one. It appears just the plain jane Personal Account can accept credit cards, but I'd have to add the 4.9% + $0.30 USD to the total amount. $150 OBO - You pay shipping from 84050 zip code Please let me know if I'm completely out of line on my asking price. I want to be fair, but I also don't want to give away a great GPS unit.
  4. I did a hard reset last Sunday and haven't had a single problem since. ETA - I bought a 60CSx too. Now I can sell my 60CS with a guilt free consience.
  5. I just installed 6.13.7 over the top of 6.14.1. The mapsource.exe file wasn't there, so I installed 6.13.7 a second time. 6.13.7 working just fine again.
  6. I'm experiencing two rather strange problems with my Garmin 60CS. The first problem started in July some time. The unit will intermittenly power down even though it is being powered via the 12VDC cable. It doesn't beep as if you were powering the unit down with the power button. It justs quietly shuts off. No warning, no nothing. The second problem started Wednesday. The unit will lose satellite lock. I can be driving down the road or just sitting still and the Satellite Menu page will pop up. You know the page with the options of Use With GPS Off, North Up, Single Color, New Location, GPS Elevation. Anyway, I will go to the Satellite page and at the top it will say "Acquiring Satellites". None of the satellites in my area will be on the satellite page, unlike how it will remember the most recent satellites when you power up the unit from it being turned off. It's almost like it is doing a cold start and searching for satellites from scratch. What speeds up the search is I will press Menu and choose New Location. I will then choose Use Map browse to my current location and then press Enter. All of the satellites in the area then pop up and the GPS obtains a lock very quickly. This has happened once every day on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday. On Thurs and Fri, it happened on my way home from work. My GPS sits on the dash in the suction cup holder and since I'm an electrician, I'll be driving my truck around the plant all day at 30 mpg or less speeds. At the end of the day I am driving home at approximately 65 miles per hour. Yesterday I noticed the GPS was quite warm, which I assume is from sitting on the dash every day. I reloaded v4.20 software but the problems are still there. possible pertinent information: * purchased in December 2004 - sitting on the dash almost every day. The only time it's not on the vehicle dash board is when it's in my Camelbak on a mountain bike ride or when I'm hiking. * v4.20 software installed some time in 2007 * 54.6 MB of maps Thank you for the help. Roy
  7. I did just that. I also picked up a Kenwood TM-V71A mobile for my truck. Ooh, shiny.
  8. Hmm, now I'm wondering if I should have bought the TH-F6A HT instead of the VX-6R. I could scan the simplex frequencies while scannering all the repeaters along a specific route. Bummer. Well, it gives me an excuse to buy a mobile.
  9. That's a great idea. Since we cover such a broad area, we'd need to do it via IRLP. I believe each of us would have to dial into a IRLP repeater and hit specific reflectors so we could all be on the same system. http://www.winsystem.org has an insomniac net every night at 11PM PST. In the past couple days I've talked to people in England, Australia, and Italy. I believe they are dialing in to reflector 9453.
  10. I bought a Yaesu VX-6R on the 29th. I was thinking of getting the FT-60R, but it is a noticeably larger, and I wanted something compact for backpacking. The salesmen at the local Ham Radio Outlet steered me to the VX-6R over the VX-7R or the Kenwood TH-F6A. They said the VX-6R has a more user friendly menu, and is much more robust than the TH-F6A. The VX-7R wasn't really on my consideration list anyway. I didn't think the 6m would be much fun with only 5w of output. I'm probably going to pick up a Yaesu FT-8800R mobile for cross band repeating. I can leave the radio on in my truck (volume down) while I'm hiking, and if my HT can't reach the repeater, then I can bounce to it off of my mobile.
  11. Enough that we have a section devoted to those who enjoy both, so I'll move the thread over there. LOL KE7PMY
  12. I have a 60CS. In order to have tide information, I needed to upload the 162/168 Tide Points along with US Topo and NA City Select. I am thinking of selling my 60CS and buying a 60CSx. I understand the 60CSx has the Tide Points built in, but do they go away when loading a new mapset, requiring me to upload the 162/168 Tide Points as a part of the mapset? Is the upgrade from a 60CS to a 60CSx a good thing? Is the software stable on the 60CSx?
  13. With Mapsource, I can load a track from my Garmin, and I can view the profile of the climb. I can select the beginning and ending point and it will show me the elevation gained between the two points. However, it will not add up the total elevetion gained, caused by many up and downs between the two points. Is there any free software that will add it up for me? If not free, than what else is there? Thanks. Roy
  14. Wow, I thought I was doing good with the short 12% burst on my climb today. Of course, I'm just getting serious about riding again after pretty much taking the last 6 years off. I can't wait to get my legs back!
  15. Yeah, yeah peter, quit being so critical. What I meant by quoting me, is that you quoted text that I was hoping would let people know that it was an extreme example to get a point across. Oh well, I guess I messed that one up. And no, I'm not a trig major. Yes, I know how to measure the rolling circumfrence of my tire and enter it into my computer. I'm just a little over the edge when it comes to getting things perfect. When I first started riding in 1993, my friend and I went on a ride through a rather large ranch in the area. We ended up on the highway on the other side and had to ride about 25 miles of highway home. I took that oppurtunity to fine tune the tire circumfrence setting on my computer (Avocet 30 at the time) against the mile markers on the road. Surprisingly, the mile markers were the exact same distance apart. I would have assumed there were not, since Caltrans put them in. Of course, I don't know if they were exactly a mile apart or not, but I felt satisfied that my computer was as spot on as it could be. Anyway, since I'm not a big fan of road riding, I was hoping I could use my GPS to fine tune my Avocet 45 while riding the trails or climbing fire roads.
  16. Ahh c'mon guys! Now Jamie Z is taking my "extreme example" literally. The steepest section of the climb across .5 mile horizontally, was 12% (11.8%). Vertical climb was 311 feet in .5 miles. I realized how out of shape I was on that little stretch. There were spots in that .5 miles that were steeper than that, but it all averaged to 12%.
  17. The quick answer is that GPS receivers deliberately report horizontal distance covered over ground. So if you parachute straight down one mile the distance would be reported as 0. However, your math is a bit off in the example you cite. Even if you were able to ride up a 45% grade (keeping the front wheel on the ground becomes rather challenging), the effect on distance travelled isn't all that great. A 45% grade means that for every 1000 horizontal feet moved you gain 450' in altitude. The slope distance you actually travel is then just under 1097' (C^2 = A^2 + B^2), or less than 10% greater than the horizontal distance. Perhaps you meant a 45° slope, but even then the slope distance would only be 1414' for every 1000' of horizontal distance. And more importantly, at 45° slopes no one would be riding up. For reasonable grades that people ride or walk up the difference between slope and horizontal distance is generally pretty small. Geez peter, you quoted my original post for crying out loud. The key words are "extreme example". Of course nobody is going to actually ride a bicycle up a 45 degree slope. But, the example gets a point across for illustrative purposes. You are right though, I did mean a 45 degree angle, not a 45% grade. I'm trying to use my GPS to set my riding computer to be as accurate as possible. However, I ride on uneven terrain. I guess I need to find a flat road and ride several miles down it.
  18. TotemLake - If I'm questioning on whether or not the GPS accurately includes vertical ascent in the distance covered, what good would having my GPS do? I didn't bring my 5,260 foot tape measure with me, so I wasn't able to measure out a mile on the fireroad I was riding on.
  19. I brought my 60CS with me on a mountain bike ride today. Does the odometer take vertical ascent into consideration? Here's an extreme example. If one were to ride one mile up a 45% incline, horizontal travel would only be 1/2 mile. Does the GPS show 1/2 mile on the odomter, or does it actually show the full 1 mile?
  20. What can be done to stop people from listing a micro sized container as small container? I limit my PQ's to small or larger, as I don't want to waste any time on a log only cache. According to HERE, a micro is a 35mm film canister or smaller, but a small is a "Decon container, sandwich-sized Tupperware-style container or similar, holds trade items as well as a logbook". I realize an altoid tin is physically larger than a 35mm film canister, but what in the heck are you going to trade in an altoid tin? Is this a job for the cache approvers to change a small cache to a micro cache? Especially if the cache description says "You are looking for an original sized altoids container...". I'm not saying that micros are bad, I've probably picked up a couple in the last 30 days, but it is frustrating to have my PQ's filled with obvious micros when the cache is listed as small.
  21. Note that both units autoroute. I can understand wanting more memory, especially if you are loading City Select, Topo, and Bluechart navigation products all at the same time. I frequently load City Select and Topo maps of the area I hike in, so that I can autoroute to nearby parking, and then switch to Topo for the hike. 56MB is plenty for my purposes. Exactly. I live in So Cal and have way more CS and Topo maps loaded in my 60CS than I'll ever be able to cover in a day, let alone a weekend. However, I will admit I'm looking forward to the release of the 60CSx, so I can load a gazillion maps on there. Then I won't have to worry whether or not I have Topo and CS maps loaded for a particular area that might be five hours away. I can just git 'n go.
  22. I originally ordered a 76CS last December. I thought it was too bulky for my uses, so I returned it and bought a 60CS. I started a thread about whether I should "downgrade" to the 60CS last December. HERE it is.
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