DiamondDaveG

Then go to AVATAR TESTING and INSTRUCTIONS to test and see if you are doing it correctly. Even though I have done it a few times, I still have to go there to check & see that I am doing it correctly.

I am assuming you tried all of this but I am just going step by step to see where the problem may be. From the 'My Profile' page and click on 'Set Up Notifications' link. Click on the "Create A New Notification" link. Enter all the relevant information. Use the correct address from the above list for notifications to your phone. Make sure the box for 'Enable Notifications' still has the check in it. Click the 'Create Notification' box. Just to see if it works, you might want to set a 'wide' coverage area (something like all traditionals found in a 50 mile radius) then wait for the first one (or couple hundred) to roll in. This will tell you it is set correctly. Then go back and modify to fit exactly what you are looking for. Remember that you will need to set a notification for each type of cache you want notified about. If you want the same notification sent to your email you will need to create another one, etc. -edit for spelling-

Sorry, I'm not near enough to take you out, but a couple of the things I did when I was first starting included: Read every page of geocaching.com you can, even the ones about hiding caches. The ones with hiding guidelines will give you ideas where there may be hidden. Read bunches of the stuff here on the forums. Yes, you will find many opinions but you will also find a lot of valuable information. Since starting I have found that Geocacher University has a section of good starter information.

the testing area for avatatrs, posts, etc can be found here.

You should remember that the cache is hidden. They may have been there just well camouflaged. While I agree with the concept of 'don't look for any micros', it's not always possible to do that without some travel. My first 9 finds were micros and most were fairly easy. When you get to ground zero, look for any place a 33mm film canister can hide. That would include under any pile of rocks or twigs that looks like it was stacked or placed by a person instead of put that way by 'nature.' No matter what the cache size is, make sure the difficulty is 2 or less until you get a full grasp on hiding spots. That way you have a fighting chance at finding it. Always read the cache page and glean any additional information that might help with the location. Previous find logs are a good source of information too. Don't feel bad about using the hint. The cache owner put it there for a reason - to assist you (although there are some that provide information that does not help). To answer your specific question - cache owners are suppose to maintain their caches and check them if them appears to be a problem. The majority of owners are very good about it. -edit for spelling-

For geocaching.com you need to use decimal degrees in WGS84 update. A couple more converters are from Boulter and from CO Sports.

Since I already do a Google Earth of anywhere I am going, I just jot down the coordinates for the destination and use that as a search. Yes, I realize if you are going to the same place on multiple trips it would be easier, but I would just start a semi-permanent listing in a notebook to reference anytime I was headed that way.

Not a suggestion of a specific unit, but..... you might want to check the forum specifically for GPS in Education. They might already have a similar thread with other suggestions or units already in use in schools and how well they work in that situation.

I agree with Wrastro that you should get some more finds under your belt before rushing out and placing a 'bad' cache just so you have a hide. Also, if you look here you will see that a GPS is needed for getting accurate coordinates after you place the cache. Sp-ecifically, the guidelines state "Once you arrive at the location of your hide, it is critical to obtain accurate GPS coordinates. This is the very heart of the activity, after all."

I use both LogicWeave and INATN. Each one offers the same basic information, but each also offers some stats that the other doesn't. Take a look at my profile and you can see them both. Then you can compare and contrast to decide which you like best.

I agree with most of this. I would have to think long and hard about putting out a replacement cache though. I ran across this as a 'finder.' The original cache, lets call it Cache A, was listed as MIA. The finder put out a replacement, lets call it Cache B, so there was something there until the CO could put out a proper replacement. When the CO goes out with a new one, lets call it Cache C, they find that Cache B has apperently gone MIA also. The CO places Cache C in the original location of Cache A and files a 'Maintenance Completed' log. When we got there we found both Cache B and Cache C. We removed Cache B and advised the CO about it.

Maybe I wasn't clear. As a CO, I have no problem with someone replacing the log and asking me what they should do with the old one. Minor repairs to the container are also appreciated. I do agree that as a 'finder' it is a tricky decision. I have replaced logs for a local CO that I have spoken with many times and have permission to do so. I believe that once I was heading passed a cache that was potentially MIA, determined it was and placed a new one for him. I would not do the same for other COs that I don't know. I would look at the situation and do the minimum necessary to keep the cache alive.

There are a number of businesses that allow caches either for the added traffic or just the fun of watching cachers try to be stealthy. I too was working on a presentation about caching to be shown to a local board for approval of placement of about 5 caches in their park. I had everything except the exact coordinates when another cacher placed 4 caches. I don't know if they had explicit approval or not. I just let it go and didn't force the permission issue.

The easy answer is that there is no true 'public' property. All property is 'owned' by someone and under their control. It just depends on who owns it and what amount of micro-managing they do. Control over a 'Public Park' could range anywhere from the Township Trustees up through a control board of the state they are in. Parking lots are always owned by the company that owns the building where it is located. I have never seen a list like the one you are looking for. The best way is to determine who owns the land, contact them and ask them their policy on cache placements. Yes, there is a guideline about how close caches are located. Currently it is set at 528 feet. This is not a hard and fast rule but there needs to be a very good reason for them to be closer (opposite sides of a river but requires a 30 miles drive to get from one to another, etc).

It could work if you are using a decent quality tape. If you are using the dollar store special, I wouldn't expect it to hold up well. There are 'self-laminating' sheets in various sizes. I haven't purchased any so I can't say anything about the price. I have seen them at the large department stores (WalMart, KMart, etc) and at office supply stores (Staples, Office Max, etc).

My thoughts exactly. I have no problem giving or receiving minor maintenance. I have come across full log sheets where I have replaced the entire log (with existing permission) and others where I have only posted a NM because I was not familiar with the CO. Many times I have added or replaced ziplocks and advised the CO in the log its self.

Or you could check the other thread you started that included a link that already entered 'geocache log sheets' in Google or one of the many sites I suggested.

You are correct..... in the UK 'torch' is the same as 'flashlight' in the US.

Here are sheets from gc.com. Here are sheets from Texas Geocaching Assoc. Here are sheets from Tucker. Here are sheets from WNAG. Here are some more. Here are some from Arkansas Geocachers. Here are some from Geocaching University.

If the site is having probs you might want to try it again tomorrow. In case it is the site & not the file, you can check the same way I did. Keep the zipped file & a copy of the unzipped file. Go ahead and open the unzipped one & make sure the number is the same as the one that's still zipped. Thats how I found my error.

Looks like you did the exact same thing I did. I didn't read the directions or FAQs as close as I should have either. When you save the PQ you CANNOT change the file name before sending it to INATN. I'm not a computer geek so I will try for a 'plain English' explanation. Inside the zipped file is the 'subfile' that has the exact same name as the original zip name. These must be exactly the same for INATN to 'open' it correctly. If they are different you will get the reply both of us got. Try it again with the original name and it should work correctly.

I use both INATN and Logicweave for my stats.

I would like to see that too. Maybe not as an icon but as a 'log type.' I have done this a number of times, including after a 'needs maintenance' has been posted. Before everyone jumps on me for being the 'cache police', one time I was in the area before the CO was able to check it and my son was the last finder. I wanted to make sure he (as a newbie) didnt screw it up when he put it back. The other times was for a CO that I know has a very busy schedule and sometimes has problems making it to some of his outlying caches that are less than 5 miles from my house and I pass all the time. I have also gotten his pre-approval to do such a thing.

-edit to delete my opinion-

Not a clue why why it would move that far. I find searching by coordinates a lot more precise than by zip especially since the 'center' of my zip code is almost 5 miles from my home coordinates.