JohnTee

HB1740 / 1938 / Y / N HB0983 / 1932 / N / N Slow, but sure, wins the race JohnTee

I don't suppose I get any credit for this one? HB1738 - I marked destroyed JohnTee

Could someone look at this benchmark description and my log/pictures and tell me if it was placed in 1991 or in 1927? HB1843 The earliest date in the desctiption is 1991 . . . yet the bottom center has 1927 (with 1991 on the left side). Thanks! JohnTee

We did our first open water dives in an area called Mine La Mont Offsets, near Fredricktown, MO. Always got a HEAVY algae bloom during the summer at around 12 - 15 feet down. Several of my buddies and I would dive the offsets in the winter (broke ice around the edge of the quarry one time). I'm here to tell you that you REALLY need a dry-suit instead of a wet-suit in the winter! Anyway, we often found gear that had been dropped by divers and lost on the bottom 40 feet down, below the algae bloom. We did recovery on several stolen cars dumped in that quarry nothing like feeling around in the dark on the bottom. JohnTee

Give a try to benchmarking near a government building in this post 9/11 Era! I was looking for a benchmark that was placed in front of, what was once the Post Office and most recently/currently (it's moving) the Federal Courthouse. After five or ten minutes of walking around I had a uniformed officer come out to ask me what exactly I was doing and what did I have in my hands? I showed him my GPS and digital camera and told him about benchmarking. Ironically, as I talked to him, I realized I knew him. Went out with his daughter a couple of times back in the late 70's or early 80's! Learned that they discourage much in the way of picture taking near government buildings and they sure watch what's going on around the outside. JohnTee

The website linked to from Freeware is coming up 404 Not Found. Did some searching and finally found a link on the North Michigan Geocacher website where it could be downloaded: Cache Log Book As I get to do one or two caches at a time in our area, I've been using the Mark I Cerebral Device. Otherwise, I do have my Palm and Cachemate, and am going to lok at the Cache Log Book. JohnTee

HB0975 / 1934 / NO / NO TPTB can review this one and determine if it qualifies . . . JohnTee

HB0977 /1959/N/N JohnTee

Hi Ballyharry, If you already logged a 'Found It', just log a 'Note'. Will not affect your numbers. Logging a SECOND 'Found It' on the same cache wouldn't be cricket. If you already logged a 'Did Not Find It' and have now 'Found It', log that find. Log your DNF's too. Lets owners know people are looking at it, may be an indicator for it to be checked out and can make for interesting reading. JohnTee

(hand in air, jumping up and down) "I KNOW THIS ONE, PICK ME, I KNOW THIS ONE!!!" Just asked this one and learned how to do it. Ridiculously easy (at least if you have GSAK - other software may do it to . . .) In GSAK Import the .gpx files you wish to use Use any search filters you wish to apply Choose 'File', 'Export', 'Microsoft Streets & Trips Text File' (Under Waypoint Code you may wish to use "%code" to export your GCxxxx names) 'Generate' In M$ S&T Choose 'Data' 'Import Data Wizard' I think that will catch the steps. In case I may have omitted a step, here is the link I was given when I asked the same question: Import Data Into M$ Streets & Trips JohnTee

Her thinking is rather comedic . . . do you suppose she'd taste funny??? JohnTee

A possible work-around . . . Before you publish your cache, go back and edit the placed date for the current date. That will only work for those willing to go back and edit the listing. I agree, it would be nice for the 'New' symbol to work as you describe it. I've just created a cache listing and am waiting on approval from MO Dept. of Cons. and actual placement. I had not considered a need to edit the placement date until I read your message. JohnTee

call me dumb but what does BUMP mean? erikwillke, the first time I saw "BUMP", I thought it was some rude, obscure geocaching humor . . . I've since learned that it's a 'technique' to put the thread back at the top of the forum list to keep it in view. JohnTee

Hi Mike, I've pretty well gone the paperless route and like it. I often cache alone, so I STILL print out a paper copy of an area map to let my wife know where I'm going to be. That said . . . If you're dealing with any number of waypoints/geocaches, downloading .gpx files with premium membership is DEFINITELY the way to go. I tried DLing .loc files to get info into my GPSr (through EasyGPS, then GSAK) and it was doable. If all you want is data entry for your GPS, DL .gpx files into either EasyGPS or GSAK, then upload them to your GPSr. You will find that life is good! I started out with EasyGPS, then went to GSAK and like it better; don't remember now what I liked better. Now, I'm using CacheMate in my Palm Tungsten E2. DL the .gpx files into GSAK. Filter them anyway you want, create an export file to send to CacheMate and you have ALL of your geocache info in hand and NO PAPER! Import your waypoints into your GPSr and you're set. This is really nice! If I travel, I can keep a large database in my Palm and copy coord's into my GPSr, if I don't already have them. You can even go one step further and get a cable to connect your GPSr to your Palm - talk about inegration! It all Just depends on how technical/nerd minded you are and how big a budget you have! Something else I've found VERY useful is connecting my GPSr to my laptop with M$ Streets & Trips running. Just did a cache out in the boonies of Southern Illinois and it made life ever so much easier; with the exception that not all roads SHOWN on S&T actually go where they show. Followed one narrowing, increasingly rutting road across a creek and ended up on a farm. Farmer (who had the road blocked, unloading his truck, told me the road probably went through 30 years ago, but not anymore!). Well, this was not a tutorial on HOW to do any of the integration, but hopefully gave you a few useful answers. JohnTee

Guess that's what I get for using the "View New Posts" link and not REALLY looking at where the post originated! See my quote line . . . says it all! JohnTee

Well, I DID vaguely remember reading that and KNEW that they moved - just didn't realize they would move up to a tenth of a mile! What I did not know about was dropping a .gpx into GE. Now that's handy. Thanks! JohnTee

Had the GC KMZ loaded into GE the other night, looking at a couple of local benchmarks and geocache locations. I know GE is not designed to be highly accurate, but I saw both of those caches jump all over the map - one of them up to 1/10 of a mile! JohnTee

Hey Anthony! Welcome from the Cape Girardeau, MO area. I was caching out east of you this morning in Mayfield. We're getting some caches in this area, so stop by to visit sometime. JohnTee

I have a pet cemetary near me (Great Shades of Stephen King!) but have never stopped by . . . JohnTee

I carry a Palm Tungsten E2 as my auxillary brain; don't go anywhere without it - if I can help it. I've got a premium membership, GSAK and CacheMate. I've been happy with that combination. I REALLY like having all my cache info in my hand! I also use a laptop, so I've got M$ Streets and Trips. Use it with my GPSr connected for navigation to and from caches. That's fun. JohnTee

Used GSAK to export benchmark and geocache data, in two different files, for MS S&T yesterday. Then imported it into S&T . . . THAT IS TOO COOL! It's still not exactly what I was trying to do (one can always wish, right ) but that is far and away a most useful tool. Be a big help for road trips and geocaching. Thanks guys. JohnTee

I DLed that a while back. Here's a link to a copy of Prime Suspect's Mini Pens Tutorial JohnTee

Sure, the military flies, and probably tests, Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAV's) all the time. Some of them are even smaller. Check out Science Fiction News for more information. There's some cool stuff out there! JohnTee

Gotta jump in on this one too! Here's info on safe tick removal from the CDC . . . "To remove attached ticks, use the following procedure: 1. Use fine-tipped tweezers or shield your fingers with a tissue, paper towel, or rubber gloves. 2. Grasp the tick as close to the skin surface as possible and pull upward with steady, even pressure. Do not twist or jerk the tick; this may cause the mouthparts to break off and remain in the skin. (If this happens, remove mouthparts with tweezers. Consult your healthcare provider if infection occurs.) Picture-tick attached to skin Picture- removal of tick from skin with tweezers 3. Do not squeeze, crush, or puncture the body of the tick because its fluids (saliva, hemolymph, gut contents) may contain infectious organisms. 4. Do not handle the tick with bare hands because infectious agents may enter through mucous membranes or breaks in the skin. This precaution is particularly directed to individuals who remove ticks from domestic animals with unprotected fingers. Children, elderly persons, and immunocompromised persons may be at greater risk of infection and should avoid this procedure. 5. After removing the tick, thoroughly disinfect the bite site and wash your hands with soap and water. 6. You may wish to save the tick for identification in case you become ill within 2 to 3 weeks. Your doctor can use the information to assist in making an accurate diagnosis. Place the tick in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer. Write the date of the bite on a piece of paper with a pencil and place it in the bag. Note: Folklore remedies such as petroleum jelly or hot matches do little to encourage a tick to detach from skin. In fact, they may make matters worse by irritating the tick and stimulating it to release additional saliva, increasing the chances of transmitting the pathogen. These methods of tick removal should be avoided. In addition, a number of tick removal devices have been marketed, but none are better than a plain set of fine tipped tweezers. "

Thanks to all of you for the answers. Yes, I was confusing format with datum. Since coord's are commonly in DD MM.mmmm, I was hoping I could have the ability to enter them in MS S&T. I've run across a couple of puzzle caches that have multiple coord's to manipulate. I can go to JeEep.com, enter coord's, convert them, copy the DD.ddddd coord's and past them into MS S&T for each coord. Ends up being a lot of steps. I'll check that thread for Importing waypoints to Microsoft Streets & Trips. That could be something that will help. Google Earth does accept coord' in any of the formats and that IS a good answer. However, at home I'm on dial-up and GE is not practical to use. JohnTee