dogwalkers2

Glad you got it sorted...learn something new every day...

Mine works fine on 2.30. When you say you get the beep at the correct spot, do you mean at the proximity distance or at the waypoint? The only thing I can think of is that the alarm tone is set to the beep, perhaps by a finger problem like I'm prone to have. I had thought there was something else in the proximity alarm setup, but I can't find it now, so I may be mistaken about that. Do the tones ring when you set them? If they don't maybe someting got corrupted. How did you set the proximity alarm: via POI loader or on the unit? I've only set mine on the unit thus far. Sorry about the freedom of consciousness troubleshooting. In short, I don't think it's a bug as mine works fine, but it might be a problem with your unit or you setup (although it seems that you have it right). Sorry I can't be of much more help than that right now.

From Garmin: "Q. Does the Communicator work with all Garmin devices? A. No, the Communicator works best with devices that connect to a computer via USB cable. While some devices that connect to a computer via serial cable or serial-USB adapter will work with the Communicator, they are not officially supported and we cannot guarantee compatibility or provide customer support." That being said, they also say: "Q. Do I need to install USB drives for the Communicator to work with my GPS device? A. No, the required USB drivers are packaged with the Communicator installer and are installed at the same time as the Communicator. If the test page says your Communicator is successfully installed, but it's not detecting your device, download and install the latest Garmin USB drivers." Finally, I believe the Garmin proprietary interface is the right option to use. Obvious, but sometimes easily missed...is the Legend powered on and past the initial boot screens?

SO in other words I need a DVD R&W. the reason I am asking is that I have an old PC that has a dvd R only that I maybe able to install Ah...didn't know you had one already...you don't need an RW. The one you've got will work for installing. By the way, oddly enough, the R means writeable, while the W means rewriteable. Just to add to the confusion, the + and - are different formats, so +/- RW covers four different types of (re)writable DVDs. A plain DVD drive (no write capability) would still work for you in installing software anyway.

Don't know if you can find an R only. A good DVD+/- RW can be found for less than $100 easily and will do all formats of CD as well.

Looks like time to invest in a DVD drive for your computer. A lot of other software is coming only on DVD nowadays. The amount of bloat (in some cases) or data (in the case of MapSource data) makes the DVD a better choice than CD. They're not too expensive and easy to install.

When I upgraded to 6.13.2, I had no problems at all. I still have Topo Canada, CityNav and Trip & Waypoint Manager all available. All my products are loaded on my hard drive and my CD/DVDs are tucked away in a drawer, so needing the CD/DVD may be an issue for you and 6.13.2. Just a thought...

Actually, one degree is about 60 X 6076 = 364560 feet, therefore the fifth decimal point makes it about 3.6456 feet, making it the most precise. But, as you said, academic...The precision of each format is less than the accuracy of the system.

I tried the address with CN on my Vista HCx and there was no problem finding it, so it may be Metroguide that is the culprit. Also, I have not noted the suggestion here, but it does depend on what region you are in. The HCx defaults to the region that you happen to be in when you go to the Find Address page. You need to scroll up and select Michigan from the list. However, if you are in Michigan and it's not working, ignore me. It depends on what you want to do. If you'll be following roads, buy CityNavigator. If you will be using it off road, buy Topo. I have both, since I use it for both. Although the Topo does autoroute, the details are different and CN gives you the option of finding addresses, etc. However, the topographic detail (including lakes, rivers, etc.) is not as good with CN, so out in the bush, I switch to Topo.

True is easiest to use when working with a map. With certain maps, grid or user is still easier but you have to know what you are doing as it is not necessarily as intuitive. Magnetic is best if you are using the unit in conjunction with a real compass.

This is exactly what I do with my Vista HCx. It doesn't get in the way, it floats if it accidentally goes overboard and you can tuck it under the deck cords to keep it in place when you are moving the kayak in and out of the water or doing something under your spray skirt. I would get one that is one size up from what just fits. I had my Legend in the case that it just fits in and it is very difficult to use the click stick. I went with the medium size for the VIsta HCx and it is much easier. I'm not sure what size would be best for the 60CSx. Also, although this may seem obvious (it took me a while to figure it out, though...just dense I guess, but the shape of the Auqapac tends to make me want to do it the other way), put it in the Aquapac bottom first - it makes it sit more naturally in front of you with the lanyard going straight out to the deck cord.

It is easily turned off and it's not much of a power hog. The barometric altimeter is what does this "smoothing" when it is set to "autocalibrate". The GPS altitude is then used to calibrate the barometric altitude every so often. Altiitude accuracy is then the same as the accuracy of the GPS altitude (about one and a half times your horizontal accuracy), only, as you say, smoother. Greater accuracy can be achieved by manual calibration, but you have to recalibrate to a known altitude or barometric pressure at least once an hour. Yes, but ensure you have it set to record tracks to the microSD card and use the gpx files that produces for your post-hike analysis. Like Gallet, I figure the few bucks extra for the sensors is certainly worthwhile, both for their geek utility and their real utility.

I don't know how Topo US 2008 is broken down, but I've got all of CN NT plus about 1400 segments of Topo Canada on my 2 GB card and it takes up about 1.5 GB, leaving lots of room for track logs, custom POIs, etc. The area covered by the Topo that I have on the card would be probably equivalent to the North-West states from North Dakota down to Kansas, over to California up to Washington and back, so you shouldn't have any problem fitting what you need on one 2 GB card. It sure does take a long time (a few hours) to load it all, though, with the time being divided between building the map set and transferring the data. The Vista HCx does run off the computer power while connected, though so you don't have to worry about burning out batteries. Set it to transfer and go do something else...

The Trip and Waypoint Manager is basically just the bare-bones MapSource, with a basemap for on the PC only (so you can see where your waypoints, routes and tracks are. As far as waypoint, route and track functions, it is the same as any other MapSource product. It simply cannot move maps to your unit.

When you have the basemap turned off and the Worldmap turned on, do you have your find option selected to nearest or to alphabetical? That might make the difference. Just a thought....

It looks to me like the online map doesn't show the road ending, but just changing type, perhaps to a gravel road. Nonetheless, onlline maps do have the advantage of being updated when the source gets updated. However, a purchased map, whether it be City Navigator or anything else must be finalized at a given edition, so they can go to production and sale and are stuck with that until an update is produced, which then must be somehow aqcuired by the person who purchased it. For the most part, I'd say it is an unluck anomaly, of which there are probably a few in both systems. At the rate construction and destruction of roads occurs, it's pretty tough to keep everything up to date and perfect all the time.

See this brief article about GPS altitude: http://gpsinformation.net/main/altitude.htm As Gallet noted, "Almost any calibrated altimeter will be more stable at reading altitude than a GPS."

Maybe I'm missing something but... I think the easy answer to the OP's question would be use Mapsource... just go into "Edit/Preferences/Position (tab)" and change the grid units to DDD MM SS.SSSS. Then you can enter the coords directly into Mapsource without converting. Good point....

Given that you are in Fredericton, the coords are N46... and W066....

Say, does Ryan let you use a GPSr on their flights? How much of a wager would you like to place in backing up this statement? "which is why no such interference is found in studies. " Have a boo at http://www.icao.int/anb/panels/acp/WG/F/WGF7/wgf7_wp27.doc

Upgraded from a Legend to a Vista HCx about a month ago and would do it again in a heartbeat.

Keep in mind: Garmin "X" series GPSr's use microSD cards, NOT regular SD cards. The largest microSD (aka "Transflash") card I've heard of is a 4GB. Also, you will very likely reach your map tile limit before the memory limit of the card if you use large cards. These units can only access somewhere around 1500 map segments or "tiles." While they do make maps with larger tiles to counter this, many of Garmin's map products are still "small tile." According to Garmin: "At this time, the 2 GB cards are the largest microSD cards that can be used for the X-series GPS units. However, the X-series GPS units are not compatible with the San Disk Ultra II cards and therefore we do not recommend using the Ultra II micro SD cards with any of the X units." Also, the map segment limit is 2025, which you would reach if using Topo Canada (not sure about US), but City Nav NT fits fine. I have topos from the praries to the maritimes (from the border to a fair distance north) plus all of North America from CN on a 2 GB card with lots of room left over (about 1.5 GB is used). It does take a few hours to load all these maps into the GPS, but once done...

Or just take the ss.ssss and divide by 60 to get the .mmm (the part after the decimal). Any ol' calculator will do...

Well I don't. The price is the last thing I'm going to worry about, especially with something I use this much. I would be more than happy to pay well over $1000 dollars for a GPS if it was the same size/shape as the eTrex but had greatly improved features. Just point me in the right direction... Well, I'd say you are not in the market Garmin is aiming for in producing their "recreational" GPSs such as the eTrex. It appears you may have to wait a little to get what you want. See http://forums.gpsworld.com/showthread.php?t=33 where it states This brief paper/article was written within the last couple of months and is discussing related issues. To add to the complexity of the topic and solution, I believe Bite_Me was correct when he said: But then there would be complaints that it's not accurate because it would be showing motion when you are standing still. By the way, the length of the active track log is often in error when you are standing still as it includes any motion because of the "drift." There's got to be some compromises, especially when dealing with a consumer product meant for the masses. There's a reason surveying GPS systems are so expensive...

GPSCentral.ca has it for $99.95 plus $20 shipping plus GST only (i.e. no PST) if you can't find it at a local store. They're quick and you should have it in your hands in less than three working days. They ship same day Expresspost if in stock and ordered before 2p.m. Calgary time. Edit: Just noticed they are out of stock. You could give them a call and ask them when they expect it...they're quite friendly.