Chief301

No it doesn't, if you use an iPhone for doing your geocaching, it will not function anytime it's out of a cell tower's range. You'll have to either download the caches you want to find into your iPhone memory prior to going out, or you can buy an attachment called "Bad Elf GPS" which will add Satellite GPS functionality to all your mapping software. Hopes this helps I'm also new to the game. TokingMonkey Sorry, but I have to step in here...the iPhone (the newer versions anyway, 3GS and 4) DO have a GPS chip and WILL function in the absence of a cell signal. You will not be able to locate new caches on the fly without cell service, but if you have saved the caches on the phone ahead of time you can navigate to them without a signal. It does work a little faster if you have data, because the iPhone uses a form of enhanced GPS that uses cell tower triangulation to get a quick fix then integrates the GPS chip for greater accuracy. I used the iPhone 4 alone for my first 60 or so finds, and still do use it, sometimes alone, sometimes with my Garmin Legend HCX. It's plenty accurate for caching and I've been completely paperless since Day 1.

What's the GC code? Maybe if we can read the description we could offer some suggestions.

I have a 4 gig micro SD card installed, that should hold a fair amount of maps, yes? It's the Legend HCX.

OK, I thought it might be something like that. So in other words, when I install the Colorado maps I should install both the Colorado maps AND my Louisiana maps at the same time, and it will overwrite the current Louisiana maps, correct? Thanks for the quick replies!

Have a little question here I was hoping someone could help with...I have been using a Garmin Etrex Legend for caching, with free maps I downloaded from GPSFileDepot. Had the maps for most of SE Louisiana, my usual caching area. Recently I took a vacation to Arkansas and downloaded the maps for that area and installed them on the Garmin, no problems there. But when I got home I noticed my Louisiana maps had disappeared from the unit. Got them reinstalled without too much trouble, but I'm wondering what happened? When you install a set of maps to the GPS does it automatically override and delete previously installed maps? Is there a way to prevent this? Is it possible I just used up all the memory and it dumped older stuff to make space? I'm taking a trip to Colorado in a week or so and I'd like to install the maps for that area to my GPSr. Is there a way to do this without deleting all my Louisiana maps again? I'm using Garmin MapSource to install the maps, if that makes a difference. Thanks.

I was just going to add, that even if someone has multiple members of the family with their own accounts (which I kinda doubt is actually the case here), then one premium account would suffice to actually get the cache info and share it with the family. There is a way for non-PM's to log PMO finds even if they don't have a Premium account.

Having to drive over 30 miles to get at caches I haven't done yet. Unresponsive CO's who don't answer emails and don't respond to repeated requests to check their coordinates, check to see if the cache is missing after numerous DNF's, etc. A lack of publicly accessible outdoor spaces to hide caches, forcing a proliferation of parking lot micros.

You said there is already a cache near the landmark. I don't think a PM cache is exempt from the proximity guidelines (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Therefore, maybe the CO was placing the cache as close as he could to the landmark (and the existing cache) without violating the saturation guideline. That would be my guess.

While you're in the "Navigate to Geocache" screen, in the upper right, next to the compass button, is a button with a little flag icon. Tap that button to open the screen where you can input additional coordinates.

I have the exact same setup you have (iPhone and Garmin etrex Legend). You have everything you need to do paperless caching. When I'm planning a caching trip I'll do a pocket query for that area. When I receive the email with the query results I save that GPX file to my home computer in a desktop folder that has all my Geocaching stuff. Then I open the file with GSAK and send them to my Garmin. Then, I open the Geocaching app on my iPhone. On the newest version there's a "Pocket Queries" button on the main menu. Since I receive email on my iPhone the new PQ is listed there automatically Just hit "save" and I'm done. Now it's time to go caching. I bring both devices....the cache info is all saved on the phone so even without data signal I can access the descriptions, hints, and recent logs. I use the phone to drive to the location then when I get out on foot I grab the Garmin. I seldom use the phone to log from the field unless I'm only doing one or two caches that day. I'll wait till I get home where I can sit down and type my logs. I guess someday I'll get a high end GPS where everything can be done on one device, but for now this setup works fine for me.

Actually, I thInk you'd be OK in this case...if I'm not mistaken the .10 mile rule only applies to physical stages of a cache, i.e. actual containers. Parking coordinates or spots where you have to go to get a puzzle clue (without there being an actual container there) don't apply, I think. I could be wrong, I don't do puzzles or multis much...check with your reviewer to make sure.

Yes, please follow the others' advice and play the game awhile before you start hiding caches. There are way too many caches out there placed by newbies who signed up for an account Friday evening, found two caches on Saturday, created a poorly conceived crappy cache on Sunday then lost interest and disappeared from the caching scene forever. Not saying this will happen with you, but think it over for a bit. Being a cache owner means committing to maintain that cache over the course of its life, checking on it and fixing it if problems are reported, and properly archiving it and removing it from the landscape if you decide you no longer wish to play the game. It's also your responsibility to use quality durable containers that won't leak or fall apart in a few weeks, and to obtain good coordinates when you place your cache. You'll place better quality caches once you've found a bunch and learn what works and what doesn't.

Generally speaking, once your GPS starts bouncing around like that you're likely as close as it's going to get you. Once the unit gets you within about 10-15 feet, it's done its job...put it in your pocket and start looking. Expect the cache to be anywhere within about a 10-20 foot radius of where your GPS is telling you. Once you're in the general area that the GPS is indicating, or "Ground Zero" as we call it, start by asking yourself, "where would I hide something like that?" This is where having read the cache description carefully will help...you need to know if you're looking for something the size of a shoe box (regular) or the size of a pencil eraser (micro). Also, the description may mention if the cache is magnetic, which would indicate that it's probably attached to some metal object in the vicinity. The cache may also be hidden inside some other object hanging by a piece of monofilament, and those can be hard to spot! Also, don't forget to search with your hands as well as your eyes. They generally won't be laying in plain sight...feel around under, on top of, behind, and inside of objects for likely hiding spots. One mistake I still make quite often is looking down at ground level all the time...don't forget to look up! There's definitely a learning curve involved here...once you find a few you'll start to get an idea where the likely hiding spots are...then, just when you think you've seen just about every way a cache can be hidden, you'll come across something totally new. That's what's fun about this game! Good luck!

loved your signature "quote", LOL. Thanks

I only wish that was a problem where I live...

So I'm driving home from work today listening to All Things Considered on NPR when what do I hear? Geocaching story on NPR A story about Geocaching...what a surprise! Check it out!

I'm a volunteer fire chief (the username kinda gives it away, I guess ) as well as an industrial FF/EMT at a chemical plant. I have occasionally used GPS when coordinating a landing zone for medical helicopters. I also use it sometimes for updating hydrant location maps. Here in Assumption parish (county to the rest of you) there are only around 8 or 10 active geocachers and I think about half of us are firefighters

Sounds like you're still trying to use Google Maps. The problem with using Google Maps for finding geocache coordinates is this: Google Maps is really designed to give you driving directions. Normally to an address, but it will also give you driving directions (and only driving directions) if you put in a set of GPS coordinates. In other words, when you input coordinates and try to navigate to them, it will bring you to the nearest street address to those coordinates. It's trying to find an address for you to drive to, not a point off the roadway for you to walk to. Sometimes, if the cache is very close to a street address (like in the parking lot of a business or right along the roadway), you might get lucky and be pretty close. It won't drop the pin off in the woods (where the cache might actually be). If you're using the Groundspeak app, the best thing to do is what Geoscout said...when you're in the "Navigate to Geocache" screen, look up in the upper right corner of the screen....there's a little flag icon, next to the little compass icon. Tap the flag icon and it will bring you to a screen where you can input coordinates manually then navigate there from your current location. The Geocaching Toolkit app will also let you "project a waypoint", which is just a way of saying manually input coordinates and navigate to them from your current location. The other app I mentioned, Motion X Lite, is also great for general GPS purposes. Hope I explained it clearly enough...I remember this was all very confusing to me too when I was first starting out

The short answer is, you can't. A handheld GPS is not designed for guiding you along routes and paths like a driving unit does. It basically just points you in a straight line toward the coordinates (it's 500 feet thataway) You'll have to engage your other navigation device (the one located between your ears) to figure out the best way to get there . That's part of the challenge (and the fun!)

OK, I gotta ask the obvious question here....why will you only be able to do it over the summer? Why not all the time? Just curious...

+1 for Geoscout's reply...the flag icon in the paid app will do that for you. You might also want to take a look at Motion X Lite, a really good (and free) general purpose GPS app.

Actually, you should probably lay off the coffee....

It's quite likely that permission was not obtained for this cache. It's also possible, though, that permission was obtained 4 years ago and the current employees (or at least the ones on duty that day) didn't know about it. I imagine there's a pretty good employee turnover rate at some WalMarts. Just sayin'....

Hey, folks, I will be traveling to Pueblo CO in a few weeks for a training class and if possible I'd like to do some caching while I'm there (of course!). I will probably have a limited amount of time for caching (mostly evenings after class). I will also be at the mercy of a few of my muggle co-workers regarding use of the rental car. Long story short, what are some must-do caches in and around Pueblo for a cacher with limited time? I'd like to go for quality over quantity, since the aforementioned muggles may be accompanying me and I'd rather bring them to a few "WOW" and not so much "yawn" Anyway, any suggestions?

The basic etrex h that the OP referred to will do fine but as you say, you will need to buy an additional serial port cable (assuming you have a computer that still has a serial port) to download caches to the unit. The cable is a bit pricey. You can buy one of the next cheaper units in the etrex line (i have the Legend, for example) and it will have a USB cable included. You can still enter coordinates manually of course, but if you get into this at all you'll appreciatee the ability to download them from your computer.