Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Grasscatcher

  1. Experts(ex-spirts)="Has Been" Drips Under Presure


    Notice that this is Post #15 in this thread......has no one thought of the obvious?


    Really now, this is not a difficult problem....ever hear of using the alphabet for sorting things in alphabetical order? Rename the waypoints starting with an initial B for Beach, S for Smokies, Y for Jellystone........or whatever.


    And choose"List By Name" for waypoints so that all will show instead of just the nearest 50.....because, If the waypoint you are interested in is NOT one of the nearest 50 it won't be shown.


    I would also use different symbols for each (group) so that a whole group can be deleted "by symbol" if desired.

  2. YES it works, and it's absolutely worth it.!


    Several folks here in western Colorado were able to be rescued as a direct result of them this Winter.

    Two tower maintenance workers with a stuck snowmobile 20 mile from the nearest road, a family of 8 with stuck machines in a deep canyon.....end results were, all at home in their own warm beds before the night was over.


    Easily could have been life threatening, definitely saved a miserably cold night in the snow, which could have turned out the other way.


    ......and you can send an "OK" check-in message so that your wife, girlfriend,or ??? etc is not worried. (and you don't get reamed when you get back)

  3. Not JUST waypoints......

    Saved tracks, Routes and up to 1000 waypoints are saved to internal memory.( x number of Tracks,x number of Routes, and x number of Waypoints) separate and distinct amounts, independent of each other.

    If the user desires, Tracks can also be logged the the card, if that option is chosen. Otherwise, only maps go on the card.

  4. Have you noticed that NO ONE above has said "NO, don't do it because it hurts reception" ?


    Use an external antenna, and use velcro to stick it where ever you want, stealth placement or geeky obvious. There is no downside (including any noticeable shorter battery life) and the convenience alone of being able to have both hands free is worth it.


    I map snowmobile and ATV and hiking trails and can have the GPS protected in an inside warm pocket, or deep down in the pack, or just anywhere out of my hands leaving them both free for driving, use of poles, or "4 point motivation", hanging on for dear life, or whatever.


    The new high sensitivity chips will usually even maintain a good lock inside the upper portion af a pack or case. However, an externa antenna is a very convenient "insurance policy"

  5. My thought when I first read the OP was "What's to update since last year? Did a mountain move?"


    Sorry, couldn't resist. :D


    Apparently,lots of them are moving. According to Topo 2008, several of the 54 Fourteeners (Mtns over 14,000 ft elev) in Colorado are now less than 14,000 ft. due to inaccurate elevation information.


    Older Topo is correct and BM elevations and USGS Topos all show correctly but I guess that Topo2008 is smarter........

  6. Google earth is mostly designed/ slanted toward the "Oh Looky, there's my house" crowd. Don't bet on it's coordinate accuracy.


    Let your GPS "settle in" and get a good lock and "average" before saving a point. Then save a second point at the same location. Compare ...and if they agree then you should be OK. If not, save a third one and it will probably agree with the 2nd.

    This is assuming of course that you have a good clear view of the sky.


    Generally, the most inaccurate coordinates are the first ones you save after turning your unit on.

  7. Also, the GPS must be held VERY close to level, and not close to belt buckles, or your magnetic compass or anything else metal...to be accurate.


    Do an experiment.....calibrate your GPS compass and lay it flat on the floor. Now lay your magnetic compass on the floor right next to it. Neither will read correctly until they are separated by about a foot.


    If your magnetic compass has a declination adjustment, set that for the correct declination for your area and then it will read the same (point the same direction) as your GPS when that is set to True North

  8. If you were not wanting to change the datum in your unit you could use a converter such as the one found on http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/toolbox/ge...phy/geoutm.html


    That works or there are multiple others online.


    But coggins is right, it is easier to change your device setup. Here is how:


    On your unit go to the menu

    Next click on Setup

    In the Setup menu click on Units

    You will not be in the section to change you Datum

    The Datum will be the second space. Choose WGS 84 and you should be good to go.


    Hope this helps


    Derrick Perrin

    Lets Go Caching, A Video Podcast About Geocaching


    You are getting both good information and bad information.....


    For changing the coordinates of waypoints already in your unit from Lat/Lon to UTM, doing it by just changing the device setup is definitely the easiest way. All you are really doing is changing the way they are DISPLAYED to you.


    Internally, ALL GPSrs work, or think, in WGS 84 datum. What you choose to have it "show" you is up to you, depending on your needs, and your NEEDS change based on what you are doing with the information. Don't assume that you need WGS 84 datum.


    You mentioned plotting the points.....If you are plotting the points on a paper map, then you MUST have the GPSr set to the same datum as the paper map.(controlled by whatever the Datum the paper map is)

    Most USGS Topo maps were made in NAD 27 Datum. so to plot a point on one of those maps, you would need to change your unit to NAD 27 Datum , read the coordinates for the point and plot them on the map.


    The reverse is also true. If you are taking coordinates off of a paper map to put into your unit, then you must be sure that your unit is set to the same datum (as the map) WHEN YOU ENTER THEM into your unit.

    It's just when you are crossing different types of "mediums" that you have to be careful. That is true whether it be Map to GPS, or GPS to Map, or GPS to GPS (someone else's), or GPS to software.etc. Just remember apples to apples.....


    The same applies to coordinate Format, Degrees minutes seconds,or Decimal Deg,or Deg minutes decimal minutes.....


    If you get coordinates from ANYWHERE, the first and most important question to ask are "What datum (and format) are they in ?"


    Enter them into your unit with it set on the same as they are "coming from" , and you are good to go.

  9. As mentioned above......Google is a "dummied down" version of a mapping program.


    It's designed more for the "Oh looky, I can see my house! " crowd.

    So, don't depend on it for accuracy......unless you just want to see your house.......


    Ok, so I'm home now. I transfer the .gpx file with full route detail to my PC. Now I'm unclear on the rest. Can I then place the detailed route back on the 60CSx so that I can use it to follow in the future? Do you store it back in onboard memory as a track that you can give any name desired?


    One more question: if I can transfer the detailed route back to my 60CSx for future use, can I tell the unit to follow that track n both the original and reverse directions? Can I use both the compass screen and the map screen to follow this detailed track?


    Thanks again!





    You are receiving some, at best, very unclear information above.


    Logging tracks to the card on the 60csx saves exactly the same total data as is saved on the Colorado, which saves the data to internal memory. HOWEVER, the Colorado does not do "Trackback" (for the return trip that evening) and in the field the operator cannot access the complete data on the card of the 60CSx, so that can't be used for trackback either. Kinda SOL either way.


    If you take the complete track data downloaded from the card to your PC and put it back into your unit for your next trip, when it goes into the unit it is reduced to 500 tp. You can kinda trick the unit by naming the track "Active Log" but you really don't want to get into that.


    The only accurate way to do what you want to do (trip down and accurately guided trip back) is to SAVE the "Down" (or first direction) trip in segments of approx. 500 TP . Each track saved and then recalled and used in sequence on the return trip.


    Now, on how to log points, the most efficient way is to use Auto instead of specifying a time or distance. Going straight it logs fewer points, in a curve it logs more . Use "More often" or "Most often" . You will need to play with those settings along with the speed that you are traveling to achieve the accuracy you desire.


    I map snowmobile trails at 15-20mpg avg using Auto and More Often, and use as rule of thumb that I need to "Save" after traveling about 6-7 miles on very twisty turning trails. Pick out an intersection or landmark within 1/2 mile or so and "Save". You will not be able to notice any difference in track accuracy.

    It's when you try to save a 30 mile trip into one track which is divided into only 500 segments that the accuracy is visibly apparent due to "corner cutting" etc.


    Just know as fact that a "Saved" track is EXACTLY the same in plotted accuracy as a "card saved, active log" track UNTIL you reach the 500 TP limit. The "stripped" data is just speed and elevation , which you can't use on the unit anyway. The difference is that you can recall and use the saved track(s) for "trackback."


    On either unit, you can zoom in and VISUALLY follow the "breadcrumb trail" you recorded on the trip in the first direction. That would be kind of a Visual Trackback, but without screen directions except for seeing how accurately you're following your first track.

    That doesn't help for the next trip.

  11. Okay, due to a PC (dinosaur) freeze-up while my flash drive was plugged in, I have lost everything that I had in one particular folder on that flash drive. While some of the files will be impossible to get back (stuff that I wrote myself, etc), I'm hopeful that the geocaching community can help me with at least some of the others. If anyone here can help me with these files, either emailed or a link, I'd really appreciate it.


    1. EasyGPS for windows 98SE


    2. MyMeridian This was a program to customize/personalize the opening screen on Magellan units.


    3. PLEASE HELP WITH THIS ONE! There was a "how-to" written on changing the appearance of the maps on the GPS screen when using Magellan's Topo. It gave instructions on modifying the Topo program so that certain streets and roads didn't show up quite so dark (change from black to grey, etc.) and also how to change what items showed up at certain "zoom" levels. Anybody remember this? Got a copy?


    Thanks in advance to any and all help. I'm sure over the next few days (or weeks), I'll remember more that I lost, but those are the ones that come immediately to mind. Thanks.



  12. What I'm hoping to be able to do is power both (radio & GPS) from a cigarette lighter plug so that I can use the setup in a vehicle, or provide a small 12v supply (with plugin) and use in a backpack.

    The closest cable I've found so far comes from GPSGeek. As stated in the original post, it only provides power to the GPS.

    May have to find someone to custom modify.....if it is even possible.

  13. I'm trying to connect an APRS rig.....a Kenwood D7A (G) radio and a Garmin 76CSx (or 76CS)


    I can find a cable (Gilsson) to connect the radio to the GPSr (2 way data transfer thru the 4 pin plug) and also to a 12v power supply. However, the 12v only supplies power to the GPS , NOT also to the radio.


    I want to also power the radio from the 12v supply.


    Anyone know of a cable? ....or a way?

  14. I was sure hoping that Garmin would make something available to all of us 400t users. Seems like a real big problem that needs to be addressed without having to purchase 2008 Topo map.


    I'd suggest just finding/using the older version of Topo......since you are not going to be sending maps back and forth and AFAIK the data transfer is the same.


    If you were in Colorado or Wyoming or ..... ,soon to be others....

    see http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php...opic=185855/url]

    this would work great.

  15. I'm trying to connect an APRS rig.....a Kenwood D7A (G) radio and a Garmin 76CSx (or 76CS)


    I can find a cable (Gilsson) to connect the radio to the GPSr (2 way data transfer thru the 4 pin plug) and also to a 12v power supply. However, the 12v only supplies power to the GPS , NOT also to the radio.


    I want to also power the radio from the 12v supply.


    Anyone know of a cable?

  16. In Expert GPS, create a waypoint and on the page that comes up, click on the symbol pulldown tab. It should show you a list of the symbols that are correct for the GPS you have identified. Those are the only ones that are applicable and can be used on your GPS anyway.


    The Mapsource program and other units may show more / others. Symbol lists are "model specific".

  • Create New...