Grasscatcher

What is the "Garmin E"? My interpretation of what "Garmin H" is is that it is your GPS.... and it is showing contents of the internal memory...only. And, as such, it doesn't appear to me that it is seeing the SD card. My file tree shows "Garmin GPS Map78S (G)", then immediately below it, as another drive, "SD Card (H)" What's confusing to me is that daily track files and daily waypoint files are in that location (H if that is supposed to be your card). Did you manually place those there?

Are the GPX files just copied to the root directory on the card ? If so, the unit can't find them. They need to be placed in a \Garmin\GPX\folder on the card. Also in your example above, you should also be seeing a folder "SD card" just above/below the "All Data" folder....it's not there. Card making good contact and "locked" in? What do you see on your PC in Windows Explorer when you look at the file tree?

It happens during an update....... Before updating, change to a profile that you DONT use. Update, then change back to your regular profile. End of problem........

Yes, it is a legitimate problem .... At one time or another, nearly every previous Garmin model has had the problem on some ver of software/firmware and Garmin has fixed it. Normally,(most units) when you turn the unit off and then back on, it starts a new track or portion in the "current" file. Notify Garmin of the action and they can fix it like they have others. Work around.....clear before you start, then manually save at the end,.... clear before you start #2 and save at the end of #2....etc. Kinda a PITA for now but they CAN fix it with a future update.

Go back and read Post # 3......about 10 times... Then read Post #4

In spite of several naive "true believers" above.....YES the "Lifetime Updates" program is ABSOLUTELY a scam....(NOT just an opinion....FACT)....and this subject has been covered before....but the gullible people keep coming.... READ Garmins own information. When GARMIN arbitrarily decides that a particular model number has reached the end of it's "useful" life, then YOU get no more free maps. It makes no difference that your unit and maybe 10,000 of your closest friends units are still working perfectly, NO MORE FREE MAPS..... YOU don't get to vote, even though you are the one that payed for them. It's happened before, and will happen again.

T2 is right... If you can get the old one out in one piece, measure it and get an exact duplicate....or Find one at an industrial supplier the correct cross sectional DIAMETER but longer......then With the old one out, use a piece of wire laying in the groove and determine the needed length...then Cut the new excessively long new one to (temporary) length using the wire as a guideline..... then Cut an additional "X" amount off to provide desired tension. Clean ends with alcohol and glue together with "super glue"

Then that leads to another question. If the E Trex series has a chipset (what chipset ?) that can process both types of signals, and the series came out so soon after the Montana, what is the possibility that the Montana chipset may actually be capable but just not enabled by firmware? Otherwise, the Montana series will be shortlived (even more than normal) due to obsolescense caused by introduction of the next Glonass enabled model series.

Since the new E Trex series came out also using Glonass satellites, and since that should be at least a marginal improvement for aquisition time and accuracy, I've been wondering..... Does anyone have any FACTS ? Does using Glonass require a different chipset or other hardware, or can that ability possibly be added by Garmin to a model like the Montana or others through firmware or software updates?

Doesn't the site also say "an additional 10% off if ordered before midnight" ??? Yeah - for Merino wool underwear! Well, Horsefeathers....! You're right....sorry 'bout that!

Doesn't the site also say "an additional 10% off if ordered before midnight" ??? I haven't seen anything even close to beating that....

"Since it seems impossible...." doesn't make it so....... Here's how, with the photos attached,..... on the map, with the select tool, doubleclick on a photo icon on the map,the photo will display. Go up to and click on "Photos" and a dropdown box will come up. Click on "View camera location". Now drag the photo out of the way and look at the little yellow line from the "selected yellow icon". Once you do the first one, in EGPS have the "list" of photos displayed on the left. One will be lightly highlited, click on the next in the list and that photo will be displayed(and will move the map to that location, which will cover the highlighted icon)....drag the photo over and look underneath where it was.....etc,etc,etc on down the list.

Well, put this in the mix and ponder on it jest fer grins...... A friend took me flying the other day and I took a bunch of pics with my 550. When I check, the pics that I took out of the right side have a line pointing from the track to the right and the pics that I took out the left side have a line from the track to the left and ones taken straight ahead the line points along the track line. Go figure........ Better yet, go onto the Topografix forum and ask Dan Foster, the developer, how it's done......

Not for the 60 or 62....however.... I take pics with an Oregon 550 (gps with camera)which automatically geotags the pics and then use Expert GPS (by Topografix). It places the pics on the track (position wise) where they were taken and then (using another feature in the software) shows a line "from" the pic icon on the track in the direction the pic was taken.(toward the subject) That's what you wanted isn't it? You can also "move" the pic (lets say a pic of a far away mtn....to the map location of the mtn) and then the software will show a line on the map back to the location the pic was taken (and a camera icon placed there). I don't know if it will do the same for "non" gps taken pics or not, but if you wanted to take the "Main High Qual" pic with another camera you could duplicate it with the GPS camera to achieve what you want. The software will also geotag pics based on "Time" if the Camera and GPS are sync'd . Of course there are probably some Experts here that say it can't be done, but they need to remember that I'm just a senile "Ole Fart" that doesn't know that it can't be done....so I just do it anyway....

It could have been made longer yet for an even fuller explanation .. but don't forget, the OP states right up front "My first post here as a geocacher and straight in at the deep end!" For that purpose, the "use WGS84 or the coordinates from gc.com will be misinterpreted" is more than adequate. Yes, until you consider that several of the follow up posts implied that there were no conditions that anything other than WGS 84 should ever be used. No since in whupping a dead horse.....enough said....I won't try to help in the future.

DazDnFamily, No, not what you said......The devil is in the details that you DIDN'T say. The what,where, why... ....that's what made it longer.

Good grief!, no wonder there is so much confusion about datums.....5 or 6 answers / opinions and most are partially correct but none tell the whole story or "why". See if this helps (or hurts) Internally, all GPS's "think" and calculate in WGS 84. What the user defined "setting" on the unit is, defines only how the user wants to "see" the coordinates. ie (for display purposes only) However..... for MANUAL coordinate input, the user must have the unit set(during data input only) on what ever datum the source information is already in. Example: Set unit on Datum X for manual input of data in X Datum format, and change / set unit on Datum Y for manual input of data in Datum Y format. Now, once the data has been correctly input (now is "internal"), the user can change the unit Datum setting to "whatever" Datum and that is what is "displayed". Conversions are correctly done internally. If you are going to take data from your GPS and plot it on a paper map, then you must set the GPS to whatever Datum the map was created in THEN read/take the coordinates and plot them on the paper map. Same thing applies in reverse, taking coordinates from a paper map to put into a GPS, set the GPS to the map datum BEFORE inputing the coordinates determined from the map. Good Rule of Thumb.......Just always be aware(and check)when you are going to input data....... GPS needs to be "set" on same Datum as "source" data. Examples: Data from GC.com always = WGS 84, manual data to/ from any maps=(whatever)the map datum.

ECA & Myotis, I map a lot of hiking, ATV, Snowmobile, etc. trails and have had as many as 13 copies of exactly the same single track trail that very accurately "stack" on top of each other. That shows the repeatability of, and speaks to the accuracy of the GPS unit. Yet when displayed on SOME topo maps or, more often, aerial photos and satellite imagery, the track shows to be visibly "OFF". Sometimes I'm shown as hiking in space off the edge of a cliff, or some other obviously ridiculous display. Change the source of the map or imagery and the same track may show differently. The georeferencing accuracy for different areas varies greatly. (Google Earth is almost a total "Joke" in some areas.) Most GPS's units are multiple times more accurate than the maps or imagery that we like to see our personally logged GPS data displayed on. I personally am not going to make a correction to drive or hike "off over there" just because the "picture" says so, when I KNOW the road or trail is "here".

"infinitely more rewarding" is a very appropriate description of finding the rock ! Here's a couple of examples dating back even BEFORE "the game" of Geocaching was invented, and some of which were done in the days of "SA". Finding irrigation ditch headgates whose locations were determined from old legal descriptions and "hand plotted" on paper topo maps and then coordinates determined by measuring distances from UTM lines....before computer mapping software. Another one......Finding one mining claim "Pin" and then plotting the other corners/pins by using the distances and directions from the old historical Claim plat and using Expert GPS's ability to accurately project waypoints. The coordinates for the last point were accurate enough to enter in the GPS and "walk"(climb) right to the pin.....at 10,000 ft + elevation. By being able to do this, it proved that the BLM's "Public/Private Land Ownership" overlay was incorrect (only by several hundred feet !(half the width of the claim))....... Getting the BLM to admit the error and "Eat Crow"........PRICELESS !!!

....and my question's are......is there a problem?, what is it?, ........ with essentially an unlimited number of POI, and as you accumulate more of them over time, you would soon need to keep the "Names" turned off anyway, just to be able to see the ground on the small screen! Use a unique (small) symbol for POI and move your cursor over it to identify it when it appears on the screen showing your current location. I've got a POI file with 30,000+ points......and that's JUST for the state of Colorado...... if the names were all displayed, we would have to flatten all the mountains out where Colorado would look like Kansas or Texas..... just to be able to read them!

Yes, according to the website at the link you sent....lower right side...

Probably the same difference between the 3.30 and 3.40 for the 62/78.....(couldn't resist that)... Your other post about a botch in 4.70 is very likely correct.

Oregon X50 ver 4.80 62/78 ver 3.40

Actually, isn't it already up to ver 4.80?