Kohavis

Maybe the cache owner logged his own cache as a "find", and a FTF to boot? Unscrupulous and dishonest, but not unheard of.

I'm just barely getting my feet wet here myself, but as I've just been through a search for a good GPSr, I'll pass along my limiyed personal experience, the advice I got here on the forum, and from my sister who lives in a far more wooded area than I do. A model from the Garmin eTrex line is a safe bet. They're reliable and proven for geocaching, easy to use, reasonably priced, and rugged. And the newer models are incredibly small - about the size of a pack of cigarettes. I was surprised when I saw my sister's eTrex Legend, and even more surprised when mine arrived: Their models use designators in the model name to indicate features. "H" means high-sensitivity", "C" means a color screen. "x" means it's able to use a micro-SD memory card for storing additional maps, waypoints, routes, tracks, etc. Look for an "H" model (eTrex H, Venture HC, Vista HCx, etc.). This designates a high-sensitivity receiver. It adds to the cost somewhat, but from what I've read here, it's well worth it. This could be important if you're under heavy tree cover, in a valley or canyon, heavy cloud cover, or otherwise have a limited view of the open sky. They even will acquire satellites indoors with no problem. If you want just a basic GPSr to use in compass mode (bearing pointer and distance to target), you won't need mapping capabilities. Mapping, simply put, is a background, scrolling map of streets, terrain, points of interest, etc. that you can zoom in or out. It shows your exact location and what's around you. However, consider later on down the road (no pun intended) when you may want to use your GPSr for a car trip, or in town. Mapping doesn't add that much to the price, and most mapping handhelds allow you to download additional maps later from your PC. And it's convenient to be able to plan your geocaching route from your handheld. I also recommend waypoint averaging built-in. It's important that when you hide a cache for others to find, that the location be as accurate as possible. Waypoint averaging takes repeated measurements and averages the data, reducing the error. Many of the Garmin units have this feature: And I highly recommend you get a case for it. They come with a neckstrap, and it may be convenient to have it around your neck, but once out in the bush hunting down caches, you won't want it there getting in the way and banging around. I recommend a good belt-mounted case or holster. The holster is convenient, but doesn't protect it when it's in your hand. The case protects the unit at all times from dings, scratched screen, etc. You use the buttons through the case. You have to be careful on the alignment of the little joystick on the front, and it takes a little getting used to for button feel through the case. But it'll protect your unit. Here's my case. I think I paid $6 for it new on E-bay. It has a "D-clip" for the belt, and a standard velcro belt loop. Well worth it, IMO: I have a Venture HC and yesterday I went on a trek for a series of caches hidden in the Rio Grande Bosque, a heavily-wooded area along the river. It was about a 2-mile hike. The GPS unit didn't skip a beat with the dense tree cover. I went 6-for-6, by the way With $170AUS to spend, you should be able to pick and choose from among several models. Here's a list of some of the most popular Garmin eTrex models: Non-mapping: eTrex H - basic, high-sensitivity model. Inexpensive. About $75 (refurb) or $90 USD new on E-bay. eTrex - Very basic older model with few features and standard sensitivity. Very inexpensive. About $60 USD (used) on E-bay. Mapping: eTrex Legend - Older model, B%W screen, standard sensitivity. Very inexpensive. About $60 used on E-bay. eTrex Legend HCX - Newer model, high sensitivity, color, and memory-card capable. Relatively expensive. About $185 USD new on E-bay. eTrex Summit HC - Newer model, high sensitivity, color, electronic (separate, non-GPS) compass and altimeter. Moderately expensive. About $175 new on E-bay. eTrex Venture HC - Newer model, high sensitivity, color. Relatively inexpensive. About $125 new on E-bay. eTrex Vista - Older model, standard sensitivity, B&W screen, electronic (separate, non-GPS) compass and altimeter. Inexpensive. About $80 used on E-bay. eTrex Vista HCx - Newer model, high-sensitivity, color screen, electronic (separate, non-GPS) compass and altimeter and memory-card capable. Relatively expensive. About $200. new on E-bay. I'm sure others will chime in on deals they know about, and also that I've left something out or gotten something wrong in this post. But the point is, you can get started with a decent GPSr for about a hundred bucks, and a really nice one forwhat you're budgeted for. I suggest you look at the models on the Garmin site and poke around E-bay for a good price. Amazon is also a good place to look. https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=145

Unfortunately, in many urban areas, this is the only hide type available. Pretty hard to hide a coffee can in Times Square

Nope. No metal. Only paper with a tight fold at the log center.

It wasn't your day to bring that camera, apparently

I would think that a good, reliable point-n-shoot would make more sense for geocaching. I have a Canon Elph Powershot SD700IS that seems ideal for this sport. When I'm strapping on my "battle gear", I always include the belt-mounted case and camera. It rides there unnoticed until I need it. I wouldn't want to be lugging a Lowe backpack with camera gear, or have one dangling in front on a neckstrap when I'm poking around. Too clumsy. I would make trips with the DSLR separate from caching. Perhaps note a good location in a notebook for returning later with the high-powered gear. But given the nature of geocaching - documenting locations and not artistic photography, I would stick with a good P&S instead.

I'm just curious. Geocaching can be driving-intensive in most sprawled out areas like ours. With gas prices so high in the USA (compared to what we've been used to, that is), have you found yourself looking for closer caches when you go out? Or do you feel "I'm going to go find some ...let the gas cost chips fall where they may"?

I did the same on Easter for our two sons. It never occurred to me to do that Christmas morning too. Oh well, they're a little old to start that now When I checked out geocaching, I had this niggling feeling that there was something familiar about it. After I saw a few listings for puzzle caches, it dawned on me. I suppose it's my way of reliving a childhood joy, only with farther distances

I was hooked as a small child long before GPS was dreamed up. My dad used to hide about ten clues for us kids to solve in order to track down our Easter baskets. The first clue would be on each kid's nightstand. The clues would go something like this: Real young - "I spin and churn and things come out cleaner" (Washing machine) Older - "I was the 16th, and one of the 6 best, but sadly, I didn't live to see '66" (Paper mache' bust of Abraham Lincoln one of us kids did for school. The next clue was under his hat) We'd get about 10 clues to solve before we'd find the goodies. Geocaching = A grown-up's Easter Basket hunt for me

Around here that would eliminate about 75% of the caches. They're by far the most popular ...at least in my neck of the woods. Problem solved, and thank you for all the good suggestions The cache is waiting to be reviewed now. I crumpled the log up over and over, rubbed it between two fingers, to "break" the paper grain and stiffness. Like with a new dollar bill. Then I rerolled, and amazingly, the paper still remembered which way it had been rolled, but was no longer the consistency of fine sandpaper, and it slid out of the cap with just a couple of taps Nano log paper is tough stuff, so you can do all this without worrying about tearing it. BTW, I like the origami "flag" idea. I'll use that if I ever get super-stubborn paper.

What a good idea! I've planted four "micro containers already and what I did was fashion some coathanger wire so there's a little loop at the bottom, just smaller than the diameter of the tube. On the top end there's a little handle. Cachers can simply grab the wire handle and pull. The contents slide out nicely. But I'm not sure the nano has enough room for any sort of a handle on top. I think the thin wire idea is a winner

I tried the banging and the thing is so new, the paper is stiff and doesn't cooperate. I like the wire idea, but the "bring tweezers" idea is also good. I didn't know that was a standard practice. I found a similar nano the other day and the log was so well worn the paper came out easily. I wonder if this would become a non-issue if I "pre-wear" the log by crumpling and the re-rolling it. If that doesn't work, I think I'll go with the little wire idea Thanks for the advice!

Here's my take on it. Linking to any site that contains advertising or solicitation for "donations" is a no-no. For example, I run an internet forum. I have my own dedicated server which I pay for, and I have no advertising on my site. I also include a "Donate" Paypal button on the portal page so regular members can contribute if they wish. But I don't solicit donations. It's strictly voluntary. But even so, if my site were related to geocaching, the donate button would disqualify it because monetary gain can be had. I've never considered linking to my forum in my cache pages. The forum isn't related to caching. But even if it were, spamming another site is a very effective way to raise the hackles of a site admin. My own hackles rise when someone joins just for the purpose of spamming their site in their sig. On the other hand ........ If your site had no advertising whatsoever, or donation links, being related to geocaching I would have to wonder what the objection would be. If people weren't interested in visiting your forum, nobody's forcing them to click the link. My advice is to get a formal, official ruling from the geocaching.com higher-ups, as another poster had suggested already. Good luck!

I just received three Nano2 caches I had bought just for fun. They're the little black magnetic caches not much bigger than a pencil eraser. The problem I'm having is with the little rolled up "log" inside. When it's placed in the cap and seated, it can't be removed unless you use a pair of tweezers and grab the center. Then it's easy. But how many cachers carry tweezers. Simply grabbing the outside with your fingernails only makes it seem to grab the inside of the cap tighter. Squeezing too tight might damage the log. I don't want to hide a cache that's going to give some poor cacher fits trying to remove the log. Here are a few grabs. Any ideas?

Buy your wife a can of Pepperidge Farm cookies (or yourself for that matter. They come in a metal can with a lid. Spray paint black and cut a coffee can lid to the right size for a gasket....voila! You get a water resistant regular cache container and your wife gets cookies to nibble on while you're out beating the bushes Or for a larger cache on a budget, use a 3-lb. coffee can itself. Spray paint black or camo. The plastic lid will keep out moisture. If you look around the house, you'll find all sorts of cache containers

I had submitted five new caches, but the reviewer suggested I convert to multicaches, and drop the fifth one. I redesigned and resubmitted with new name and GC number. The last was published today. All this interaction back and forth done in 3 days. They are pretty darn fast, considering the voluime they must handle. Kudos to RockyMtnReviewer!

Today the Venture HC was spot-on. I got two cache finds and one benchmark find, and every time the unit got me to within 2 feet before the pointer started going berserk. Yesterday I had a few finds and it seemed to go no better than 5 feet. Guess it depends a lot on the satellites in the sky and the signal strength. Well DUH! I just realized how stupid that sounded

I also got the error when I tried logging a benchmark find this morning. I click the "Log this benchmark" link and it takes me to an error reporting screen. I've reported it already.

It does. I just bought a Venture HC and the cable was included. Garmin lists it as being "in the box" when you buy one: https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=145&pID=8707 But as you said, most of us already have the cable if we have a digital camera or an MP3 player that uses the small USB connector. Not a biggie.

Well, I'm fully "armed" now. My Venture HC arrived today. What's amazing is that it acquires and is ready to go from inside the house. Even on the first floor with the second floor between it and the satellites. Comparing it to outdoors shows only a small drop in the sat signal strength. Wow! They're not kidding when they say "high sensitivity". After all I've read about having to be outdoors before you turn your unit on, it's nice having that much headroom in the receiver. I believe that thing may actually acquire a signal inside a copper-lined room The unit is intuitive.Navigation is fast, and a particularly useful feature came built-in - waypoint averaging. You go to "Mark" in the menu, then waypoints. There's a button at the bottom of the new waypoint screen that says "Avg". Clicking on it starts the unit taking repeated measurements, doing the math to average it, and it shows a real-time indicator of the error. You can leave it on as long as you want and watch the error drop. When you're done, you hit "Save" and it stores the averaged waypoint. It's important to me because I'll be hiding 5 caches in the next few days and I want the coordinates EXACT. I don't want someone using bad numbers and having trouble finding my caches. That's not cool. Another nice feature is the geocache mode. When you find one, it removes it from your list and enters the cache #, name, and date/time in the calendar in the unit. Sweet! This Venture HC is amazing. What struck me is how small it is. It's about the same volume as a pack of cigarettes I'm a very happy camper. I've been playing with waypoints and caches. I've downloaded several from this site, and I'm still learning the trip/waypoint manager. I'm a happy camper

Thanks Ed That's encouraging.

How often is one asked to explain their cache location? What if it's just a pleasant location under a tree in a shady spot, or particularly peaceful, but not necessarily "special"? Is that OK? I found a nice cache last week under the loose metal base of a store's parking lot light pole. A clever hide, to be sure. I doubt the place was "special" to the hider, however. Unless maybe he was parked there with his girlfriend and they shared their first kiss or something I don't think knocking on fifteen or twenty doors there would be a good idea. It would draw unnecessary attention to something they might otherwise not even notice. Thanks. I feel the same way about it. Your case with the door knocking involved few people. I wouldn't have a problem with that, as I'm hardly shy. But 20 people - that's just asking for trouble, in my opinion. One of them might just take the cache just to be nasty. Call me a cynic I hope this isn't frowned upon - posting pics of my cache and the location, but I figured unless someone reading this is planning on visiting the cache out of thousands here in town, it probably won't give anything away. I decided to split the difference. I added a disguise to the cache and plan to place it behind some foliage at the base of a tree. In the winter, the bark will help hide it. Cache viewed from above: Underside: Location: Does this look OK?

Great. This is exactly the info I needed. Thanks! As far as returning the unit, at least let me outgrow it first I don't want to spend a fortune on the GPSr, and there's a considerable price jump when you go to the "X" models. I wanted a unit that I wouldn't outgrow in a year (I was also considering the Legend (No H, C or X at the end of the model name), and decided on this one because it wasn't much more money than the 7-year-old Legend. But at the same time, if I lose interest in geocaching in three months, I'll kick myself for plunking down $250 - $300 for a GPS unit that sits in the drawer, or ends up going for 40% of its new price on E-Bay. That's also the reason why I'm still only a regular member. If I stay as interested as I am now, I'll have no problem signing up here for a year. But I need a few more caches, and a little more time before I'm willing to make that commitment. But the GPS unit is arriving in the next few days, and I already have 5 caches made up, just waiting to be placed Once I'm "armed", I'm sure that many residents of this area will wonder who that guy with the red baseball cap is, and why is he pacing around their front yard? I fully expect to be a regular fixture here for some time to come. A week ago I found my first cache when my sister (Dittersfeet here) visited from out of town, She took me out for my initiation, we found four caches and the first of aonther two-stage, and I'll tell you ...I was immediately hooked. It reminded me of my dad and how he planted riddle clues all over the house so us kids would have to work for our Easter baskets

Thanks briansnat I'm still trying to get a feel for what is the proper level of difficulty. I've seen posts here about "lame hides", and I want my hides to be fun to find, but not overly easy. I guess what you're saying then is that any hide is a "good hide", and that I shouldn't try to be overly clever in placing it. Is this correct? Based on that, it seems that I should go with the safer spot. Since I'll follow your advice, I'll go ahead and post pics of the original spot that had possible muggle issues, and see if you agree. Here's the location. Out of the pic to the left are the houses I'm concerned about: And here's the cache and the lava rock that was to hide it: My plan was to place the lava rock among the other rocks with the cache underneath it, and name the cache "ROCK OLDIES - K-LAVA" Oh well, I guess I'll go with the safer one

Thank you for popping in to helpfully instruct others in how they should more properly post. I am sure your comments will be greatly valued by those you criticize. You're welcome. Truly? Then let me ask you this: When someone wanders in to your forum and demands that a thread be shut down, and you politely explain to them why you haven’t shut it down, but then the new person continues to tell you your business anyway – how do you respond? Why are you getting hostile at me? And please point out where I "continue to tell the staff here their business". I made a suggestion, and three posts later I explained myself when someone directly asked me "why?". You need to switch to decaf, KBI. And that suggestion is made in the spirit of constructive criticism