Zor

Garmin Legend HCx. You can adjust the zoom level on this unit but the zoom is for all POI's. What I would LIKE to do is to set the zoom to as far out as it will go, but have it ONLY display the custom POI's and NONE of the regular POI's. That's why I was asking if you can edit the map to remove POI data.

I have been pondering the idea of using custom POI's for my geocaches so I can get around the 1000 waypoint limit. I have used it before but I found it a little annoying. The problem is that if I load caches as POI's, they don't display past a certain zoom level. But if I adjust the zoom level, then ALL of the POI's show. I'd like to be able to suppress all of the restaurants/hotels/etc POI's and only display the caches or custom POI. Is there a way to either turn off certain POI's or the ability to edit the mpa directly and remove all of them. Any ideas?

I asked this question months ago and got mostly the same answers I see here. For me, I see only a few reasons why I would ever log a find on my own caches: - It's a cache I have adopted but never actually found. Logging a find seems reasonable since I never actually hid the original cache. - Logging an "attended" on an event that I created. Even if I listed the event, there's still the possibility that I am not going to the event. I think it's fair to say I should be able to log my attendance. - A log on a real find has been deleted and I wish to keep my numbers true to my actual find count. This could be seen as a bit controversial. If I logged a legit find on a cache and for some reason that cache's owner decided to randomly delete my log, I do not see the harm in logging a find on a cache that I own to keep my "find" count accurate. I would simply put in the GC code and an explanation of why there's a log on my own cache. This would keep the find number accurate to the actual amount of caches I have "found" despite having the original log deleted. - Excessive difficulty in finding my own cache during a maintenance run. Although I have never done it, I have thought about it. I spent a good 30 minutes trying to find a cache that I hid and because people did not replace it back where it was supposed to be, I spent a great deal of time trying to find it. I think that depending on the person, and the situation, if you have to spend a large amount of time looking for a cache that you hid (and therefore should know where it is), then logging a find on that cache should not be a problem. I think that it would vastly depend on the person as in my situation, even though I spent all that time trying to find it (a nano in a cart corral) I still did not feel it was appropriate to log a find. I would however not hold it against someone if they did. For me, those seem to be the most logical reasons to log a find on your own cache.

Although this may not be a popular solution, why not just change the coords of the "puzzle" cache to be the final location, and indicate that at one time it was a real mystery cache but is no longer. The coords posted are in fact the coords to the final. All local cachers aren't going to bother with it since it's off their radar anyway and new folks will have an easy unknown cache to get. If the locals don't like the fact you've "changed" the experience, then that's their problem, not yours. It's your cache. Do what you want with it.

I was looking at a friend of mine's profile and noticed that he has cache finds logged on locationless caches. I went to look at a bunch of them and noticed they are all archived and locked from receiving logs. It's my understanding that locationless caches were moved to Waymarks much like virtuals but with virtuals you can still log a find. Are there any locationless caches left that still allow you to log a find? I only ask cuz it would be nice to have the locationless icon on my profile Not a big deal. I seem to recall a post somewhere that said that not all owners of locationless caches allowed their cache listing to be moved to waymarks, so I wondered if any of those caches can receive new logs. Anyone know?

Ok, interesting story... Me and my ex-wife were split up for about 6 months or so. We didn't talk, it was kind of a messy situation. Regardless, I had heard that she was doing this thing called geocaching with her new boyfriend. I looked it up online and it actually sounded really cool and definitely something I would be interested in doing. But, I didn't want to just jump on the bandwagon since she had started as well. Seems kind of silly now, but that's how it was. That was around 2003 sometime. In October of 2007, I looked it up again and thought that maybe I should give it a try. I called a friend of mine who was really into caching and told him I was interested. Boxing Day came along (Dec. 26 here in Canada) and out we went for a few hours. Found about 6 or 7 caches that day including some regulars, micros, and a nano. I had a blast. Bought a GPS a week later, and was out on my own shortly thereafter. 616 finds, and 55 hides later, I'm loving it!

I live in Moncton, NB Canada and used my GPS in the cold weather here during the winter. Had no issues. The only thing I did find was that if the unit was cold when it was turned on (Garmin Legend HCx) the display itself was faded. Almost gray-like. When the unit warmed up, I would turn it off and then on again, and the display was fine. I assumed the display just didn't like being turned on when cold. I've seen it do that a few times. I'd recommend turning the unit on inside and then go outside. That of course depends too if you have a unit like mine

I've been working with some other beta testers on the most recent update to the iPhone software and I can say, from what I see now, the update coming will be good. You'll be able to log "field notes" from the phone that are attached to your account. When you log into your account, you click on the field note, and then complete the log. Makes it MUCH easier to just make a quick note about a cache, then fill the log out later when you're in front of a PC. I have replaced using cachemate with the iPhone app because it gives me everything I need when I am on the trail. Hints, logs, etc. It's all there and it's one less device I need to carry with me. The accuracy issue is one I have seen. I have never been able to get the phone to say I was any closer than 17 meters from a cache. However, Jeremy gave a pretty good explanation of what he thought the readings on the phone meant compared to a regular GPS in another post I did here. I would still rather use the phone as an extra add-on to my regular GPS but it still provides some real good functionality.

I understand that some people might get upset by it, but unless the cache is a specific type of hide, I wouldn't care what the photos show. I've got a ton of ammo cans out in the woods and if someone wants to take a photo of themselves with the can and post it, I'm all for it. No biggie. But I've got a couple of unique hides that photos would totally ruin the experience. For example, I have a bison tube attached to a metal stake that goes into a cement curb so it can't be seen. Sometimes referred to as a "curb-cache". It's in the middle of a parking lot with no lamp posts around so it's really well hidden but easy to spot if you knew what it was. A photo of that container in the logs would totally blow the point of the cache so if I saw someone post a photo of it, I'd likely delete the photo and email the finder. I think it depends on the container and type of hide. If it's a unique/stealthy type hide I wouldn't post photos. If the size says "regular" and you take a photo of the ammo can, I don't think people should get all worked up about it. Just my opinion.

I've been using a Legend HCx for over a year now and the issue you have is one I have experienced too but now I know why. The arrow in that GPS is pointing you in the direction as long as you are moving. It's not like a compass. It simply figures out what direction you need to go based on where you are currently moving. If you stop moving, in many cases the arrow will go in weird locations. Another thing I find is that it totally depends on the reception of the unit for that day and the terrain you are in. In some areas, the reception will be great so it will point you right to the cache but as you get closer, maybe there's more trees so it starts drifting. What it thought was maybe 10ft is now 50ft because the units reception has degraded as you got closer. Try checking the "Satellite" screen (one of the options right above "Find") to find out what your accuracy is. I keep an eye on this all the time when I cache so I know if I'm in a bad area or not. if you make note of the direction and have a compass with you, you can make a bearing and head the right direction without the GPS arrow. I've been on a trail with a geo-buddy and his GPS said we were within 25 feet of a cache and mine said we were 200 feet from it. I turned the GPS off, turned it back on, and it reset the accuracy. Suddenly I was within 25 feet of the cache. Sometimes the unit just needs a kick in the butt!

I have the HCx and have never used the Vista. From what I know, your interpretation is right about the compass. There is an "Arrow" on the HCx that points you towards the cache but it only works when you are in motion. So as long as you are moving, it points you in the direction to go. As for maps, they come with basemaps which are VERY basic. You will need to purchase a topo or road map for your GPS if you want land/area information. There are some free ones on the web but you may want to consider buying yourself a good one. As far as I know, loading the maps on is the same for both units. Click the area in Mapsource and hit Send to GPS. Done.

My req is in as well

This sort of came up in another thread so I thought I would pose the question to readers here. Has anyone here been able to use the iPhone GPS / Geocaching Application on the iPhone in an area where there is no cell service? My understanding is that the GPS is supposed to be GPS plus cell/wifi connections to help you. If that is actually the case then you should be able to get a location lock in an area where there is no cell service. You wouldn't be able to bring up a map, but it should still be able to figure out where you are. That having been said, if you have the geocaching application, the "arrow" should still work since it doesn't need to display a map, just point you in a direction. Has anyone here tried the GPS without cell service?

What kind of caches have you been looking for? The accuracy I have had with the iPhone is crap. The best I have ever got with it was within 17 meters of a cache. I can get within 2 meters with my Garmin. I would never use just my phone for caching. The GPS on the iPhone is an A-GPS (assisted GPS) where it uses wifi and cell towers to assist in the GPS navigation. I can tell you from personal experience that the iPhone GPS is nowhere near as accurate as a handheld GPS. As for the maps, those are not stored on the phone which means if you have no cell service, the GPS might be able to figure out where you are, but it can't show you since it can't download a map. I would be very curious to see if the GPS even works when there is no cell service. If it does, all you could do is possibly get a bearing as to what direction you need to travel. You need cell service for the maps.

^Zor^ Sorry for getting off topic but ^Zor^ if you call or email Garmin they will send you a new band and everything you need to fix your GPSr. They did me for mt Garmin Etrix Venture CX and it was over a year old. edit to fix typo Thanks for the info. It's not a big deal. I expect to upgrade to the Orgeon this year and I have gotten used to the rubber band on the GPS. Kinda like a badge of honor of sorts

This is the exact model GPS I have and I have to say, I really like it. I have loaded a ton of different maps on it and have had no problems with them whatsoever. As for the detail on the HCx, that totally depends on the map you put on it. For someone who had no knowledge of trail GPS's before, I found this one easy to learn, and it took me no time at all before I was able to load anything I needed onto it including caches. The only downside to this particular unit is the rubber lining along the outside of the unit. Mine started coming off after about 6 months. I have a very low tech fix which has worked (tight elastic around the unit). Beyond that minor issue, I definitely recommend it especially if you can get it at a good price.

Now this may sound like it's a bit out of line, but I have one theory as to why GSP doesn't want a public API. The moment the GC database is accessible via an API, that means that GC.Com would have to accept legitimate competition from other listing services. In no time flat, other folks would snag a copy of the entire listing database and look to find ways of creating their own listing service using the GC database as a base for their listings. By the database being open, they'd have to relinquish some of their "ownership" of the information and allow users to do what they want with it. I think this is what is a concern to them. In giving up that right, it would allow other users to make use of those listings to create other listing services that would be in direct competition with GSP. It appears that specific partner companies are allowed to access the API but I suspect that those partnerships are limited, and that there are specific and somewhat severe conditions as to what they can use the data for. Realistically, I would be extremely surprised to ever see GSP open their API to the general public. I don't agree with it, but I can understand the business logic of not wanting to open up a database that could, in theory anyway, result in the collapse of the company. I don't think that would ever happen, but I can definitely see how some people might view it that way. Just my thoughts...

Personally, it is somewhat annoying sometimes the "rules" that GSP has put in place but the fact is, someone has to do it. As far as virtuals are concerned, list them or don't list them. Doesn't much matter to me. I can see the point to some extent when I look at waymarks and see that Dunkin Donuts and gas stations are listed as waymarks. Uhm ya. That kind of listing is garbage. Last thing I'd want to see is virtuals like that fill up areas that could have decent real caches.

That's an excellent comparison. Thanks! Looks like when the time comes, I'll just get the 300, put a card in it, and load my own maps. Thanks for the info!

I'm looking at the Oregon GPS. I see that there are a ton of different models. However, when I look at the actual differences between the 300 series, and the 400 series, I see very little difference. It appears that aside from the base memory in the unit, and the fact that the 400 series comes with preloaded maps, it does not appear as if there is any real difference between any of the 400 models from the 300. I'm Canadian so I don't know whether or not the topo map would even have Canada in it, so I'm thinking of buying the 300. Beyond the base memory size and preloaded maps, is there anything about the 400 series that truly makes it's functionality different? Is there any kind of chipset/receiver differences?

Personally, I have found that the accuracy for geocaching on the iPhone to be pretty crappy. On most days, I get 9-15ft accuracy on my Garmin GPS. As someone who only started caching last year, I can tell you that if you are frustrated by the accuracy issues of the iPhone, then getting a reak GPS receiver will vastly alleviate that frustration. Yes, depending on the cloud/tree cover and weather, accuracy will go up and down but real GPS receivers have a much better accuracy.

My biggest gripe with Garmin. I"m glad the topo maps don't fall under the same licensing agreement that the City Navigator does. What really stinks is Garmin will sell you an unlock code for $99.00 to unlock a map you already paid for and own. A minimal fee would be acceptable not $99.00 I opted to buy a new City Navigator 2009 map and saved about $20.00 Garmin does that so that people don't buy the map once, and install it on 5 different GPS's. Personally, I think if you buy the product, you should be able to do whatever you want. It's the same with regular software on your computer. When you buy a copy of Windows, you can only install it on one machine. That's part of the licensing. I understand what the company is trying to do, but if you upgrade from one unit to another, you should be able to remove the maps from one GPS, and install them on another. That having been said, there are means for which you can permanently unlock your Garmin maps so it doesn't matter what GPS you install them to. You can sort of justify using such tools if you've paid for the maps already, but you would definitely be breaking Garmin's license agreement. Personally, if I shell out $100 for a map, I'm going to install it on whatever GPS system I have. I've paid for a product, not a service. When I buy a CD, the record label can't tell me that I can only play that CD in my car, and not in my home. It is a product you are purchasing, not a service. They cannot "force" you to do anything with something you have in hand.

I'm from Canada and was taught all through school the whole centimeters, meters, kilometers, liters, etc. Ironically enough though, I would say that for myself, I'm about half and half on the metric/imperial side. For all things GPS related, it's metric all the way. For driving, still metric. I can't for the life of me understand what a "mile" is supposed to be. For temperature, both, sort of. The temperature outside, or how cold something is, for me is always in Celsius. Room temperature is 22 degrees C. However, I tend to look at body temperature in F. The same thing goes for my oven. I cook most stuff at 375F and never use C when I cook. If I go to measure something with a measuring tape or rule, it's never in CM. It's always feet and inches. My height is in feet and inches. I couldn't tell you how many meters/cm I am. Drinks and liquids are always in litres and ML. Lastly, weight. I'm about 170lbs. No idea how many kilos that is and quite frankly I don't care. I'm sure my doctor does though. I think it depends on when you were born, how you were raised, and what makes the most sense to you.

Earlier this year, I had a pile of ceramic poker chips made to use as a signature item. I've been dropping them in caches ever since when the cache is large enough to hold them. My question to you folks is, is dropping your sig item in a cache the same as signing the log? It indicates you were there. I always sign the log anyway, but I was thinking that perhaps dropping the sig is enough. The other side of the coin is that sig items often get collected by folks so it doesn't remain. What are your thoughts?

I have a Garmin eTrex Legend HCx and an iPhone 3G. I have not had a lot of luck caching with the iPhone. I bought the app from GSP and was impressed at what it could do but when it came to flat out accuracy, the phone never even came close to what I can do with my Garmin. The best reception I get with my Garmin is 3M (just under 10 feet) and I usually have within 3-5M accuracy in most locations unless I am REALLY covered and then a lot of the time I get great reception. Recently, I wanted to get a cache that had been hidden near my work but I didn't have my GPS so I thought I would try and use the iPhone. Well, 17M accuracy was as best as I could get (about 50ft) and after wandering around the same area for a half hour, I found the cache. If I had not had the clue, there is no way I would have ever found it. I have instead resorted to using the phone for paperless caching. If I go caching and need the hint, or want more info, I open up the app, have it find caches near me, and the one I am looking for is usually the closest so I choose it and get the info I need. Since I always have my phone with me when I cache, it works great instead of hauling my PDA around with me. The iPhone also doesn't allow you to "mark" them as found, and go back to them later to log. A real GPS has all of that functionality. Personally, I am in the market to buy myself a newer GPS within the next year and I will likely get something that let's me do paperless caching without my phone. I'll still keep up with the iPhone app and keep it with me in case I am without GPS, but after having cached with both the phone and a real unit, I'll stick to my trail GPS.