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Jeep4two

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Posts posted by Jeep4two

  1. Strike Anywhere, I tried your idea, but with the "L" shaped in that came on the cord. I cut a slight curve in the top and bottom right at the offset by the metal plug. I then took two pairs of pliers and started putting a reverse bend on the plug. Heated it a little at a time with a lighter until I had about a 45 degree reverse angle. Tried it with no problems.

     

    I'd be worried that a modified connector, especially heated and bent in this manner, could short or have some sort of problem.

     

    Granted, it may be a long shot of something happening that could damage the unit but lets face it. These are $350 units at a minimum, and most of us paid more than that (I've got around $400 in mine). I would hate for a short in a modified cable on a $5.00 charging cable kill my $400 Oregon. Just me but I'd seek out a cable that fits properly - there are tons out there designed for various cell phones, or use the cable that came with the unit with a 12v to USB connector as suggested by another poster.

  2. Ok...after days and days of researching I am narrowing down my purchase field.

     

    I am new to both gps'ing and geocaching but I know that I would get good use out of a good system, so I'm not limiting myself by cost. Also, I've never used a gps before, but I am a pretty smart cookie so I don't NEED anything dumbed down for me....but if dummied down works the best...then I'm all for it :)

     

    I really do want an all-purpose unit....but leaning towards the active side of things, so that's why I'm headed towards the Oregon -- either the 300 or the 400t. I want topo and city maps. I've done a few searches for free maps, and I'm just a little new so I'm not sure if they'd fit my needs (I'm in Southern Minnesota and travel predominantly from MN, to ND, to across MT.) I will also be traveling overseas and other random places, so I do want some good expandability...and paperless is really attractive to me.

     

    I've also heard about some issues with the Oregon...screen lighting, hiccups, etc....

     

    I also want an easy to use unit, so that's what's got me turned on to the touch screen.

     

    I just don't want to regret my purchase if I spend a good chunk of cash. I'v also looked at the Colorado and the PN-40, so anything I can hear from actual owners of all of these gpsu's would be great. I've read so many reviews I might just go blind.....

     

    Is this a no-brainer...should I just go with the Oregon? If so, which one? If not....what else?

     

    Any thoughts, advice for this newbie???

     

    My advice is simple. Ignore the screen issues you may see around the forums. I think they are unfounded when using the Oregon as a handheld unit in the field, in a car mount (esp. if you use a power plug when in car) or in virtually any other situation.

     

    I got 400t but when I bought it there was no price difference in the 400t and the 300. If you can get a better price on the 300, go with that. Buy the City Navigator maps, and use the freeware USGS topos. The topos are 100K on the Oregon (USGS Topos are 24K in most areas). You can get the free topos at www.gpsfiledepot.com

     

    I tried the OSM Routable street maps but they are not very good. Missing exits on interstates, bad routes, just not very reliable. I still keep the OSM freeware around for when I'm in a new area as a reference. I used Metrowizzz to convert my older Mapsource maps to routable on the Oregon and use those for normal navigation - which has proven very satisfactory.

     

    The touch screen is awesome and easy to use. Even in the face of some menu navigation that is inefficient the touch screen makes it a breeze.

     

    Pickup a nice 4Gb MicroSDHC card, RamMount suction mount for the car and a Invisible Shield screen protector and you'll be tickled pink. Of course some good NiMH batteries are good to have handy too. There are plenty of threads on good batteries to get, along with chargers if you just search for "NiMH" or "Rechargeable Batteries".

     

    Best of luck. . .

  3. Interesting thread with some interesting viewpoints.

     

    I'm glad the CO is getting his very creative cache container back. I hope he's able to find a way to use it again in the future.

     

    I have to feel however that the muggles in question really did nothing wrong. The police department however may have taken things too far by trying to find some way to bring a charge.

     

    I know that some in this thread might walk up to a wonderful surprise like a period casket and just whip it open to see what's inside. I however as a muggle would probably have reacted in the same manner.

     

    I wish I could say that it's just innocent fun and that everyone should just pass by and laugh, or read the inscription before reacting. But that's not our society. People won't read the sign at the express lane and take 2 seconds to realize they have 50 items in the 10 items or less line much less consider that they can only write a check when it clearly says cash only. Why would we expect an unsuspecting muggle to calmly start looking on the casket for 'more information' before grabbing their cell phone?

     

    Idea for the CO: Use this cache container as the final for a Halloween series again - only this time make it a seasonal cache that will only be available during the halloween season. Maybe work with a local haunted house and have the casket out front with a combo lock on it. The series could give cachers the final coordinates and combination to open the cache in plain sight of muggles attending the haunted house. Cachers could be asked to pretend to mourn and shrug off questions from muggles while logging their final find leaving attendees wondering what the heck. . . All in a safe controlled environment where the container can be collected and recycled next year. Just an idea. . . why not. . . ? Could make a great photo opportunity for the CO and the local LEOs.

     

    Legend? Maybe - this one could be traveling with the OCB someday. . .

  4. This is really interesting to run into this topic today.

     

    The past weekend my wife and I did a charity walk of about 3 miles on hard concrete and a fairly quick pace (Arthritis Walk to support a friend that has severe RA that she's been living with since she turned 15 - she's 24 now).

     

    Anywho - the brisk 3 miles was followed by about 4 hours of caching in an urban park setting. Some caches required a little walking and we did some hiking in addition to the caches we visited.

     

    By the end of the day my heel was killing me - and the next morning I could hardly walk on it for the first hour after getting up.

     

    I know what caused the pain to start but never knew what it was called or specifically how to treat it.

     

    My case: Poor quality shoes that I wear at work. It has rarely been an issue but my recent increase in activity levels as I've gotten back into caching has led to a more regular weekend pain.

     

    I'm starting a regimen of stretches and exercises and have a trip to a shoe store planned to replace my work shoes and tennis shoes. I've recently bought new Vasque hiking boots after being properly fitted and thats made a significant difference on my hikes.

     

    Thanks to the OP for tipping me off. If some basic 'self treatment' doesn't resolve my issue it's off to the podiatrist.

  5. For clarification, my original intent was just the observation of the errant golf balls that I seem to encounter in odd locations while caching (near caches, on the way in).

     

    I'm all for golf balls. Heck - I pick them up, wipe them off and pocket 'em. When I get home I give 'em a closer inspection and put them in the good bag or the shag bag for chipping around the yard.

     

    Of course a few went flying out of potato guns in the name of science but hey - its science!

     

    I think its great to put golf balls in caches. I always look at them to see if they have logos. I've got a few hundred logo balls from when I lived near a course and went ball shagging on Sundays (can I say that on the forum?).

     

    Golf balls at exit ramps. . . that's interesting. I guess people get bored while driving and stop and take a few practice strokes? Love it.

  6. Almost all web hosting services will disable your hosting account if traffic becomes excessive (there's usually a clause in the TOS that loosely defines this).

     

    Chances are they were on a shared hosting plan (their web server was on the same physical server as many others). Excessive traffic in a shared hosting system can cause one server to dominate resources to the point the host will request the owner move to a dedicated server.

     

    Granted - the terms 'unlimited' may mean transfer volume but not necessarily cpu cycles... Too much fine print these days honestly.

  7. The forum ate your post . . .

     

    However I think your subject is sufficient.

     

    If you want to unfind a cache in the Oregon, goto "Geocaches" then "Show Found". Select the cache you want to set as unfound and and then press the "GO" button.

     

    Close the map window and the press "Geocaches" again. The press "Log Attempt" and then press "Unattempted"

     

    Bam! Unfound :rolleyes: At least this is how I do it. . . I accidentally forgot to add cache notes once and scrambled my way through this process to unfind then refind and add notes.

  8. I was curious what everyone used figured there were way to many options for a Poll...

     

    I'll start off..

     

    Driving and most Vehicle travel: Garmin Nuvi 760 (may try this one for caching just to see how it does)

     

    Geocaching and Exploring : Garmin Colorado 400t

     

    Original (now a backup) eTrex Legend. I used it for navigation for years. It wasn't good, required planning of routes manually when away from a computer. But it could get me to the caches although under tree cover it was less than ideal.

     

    Now: Paperless with the Oregon 400t. The Oregon has gotten me back into caching again and I hope to keep it up.

  9. As others have said, the ability to run pocket queries is alone worth the $30 annual membership costs.

     

    In addition you are helping to support the site, development of the site, and the game in general.

     

    Finally - I'm sure Bookmarks will become a favorite for me as my caching matures, however I'm totally thrilled with the new cache notifications feature. Its great knowing when a cache a few miles from your home has published and you can make a dash for a FTF.

  10. Recently we have found a few caches with desiccant bags or silica gel bags in them.

    I am I mistaken or are these about useless once they have been exposed to the humid atmosphere?

    When I worked in the machine shop we kept camphor blocks in our tool boxes to prevent rust but I don’t know if they absorbed moisture of if the fumes have an anticorrosive property. Do you put anything in your caches to keep the moisture out?

     

    The only way to control moisture is going to be having a secure container. A lock n lock, ammo can or PVC tube (well glued cap on one end - rubber 'clean out' plug on the other). There may be others, but watertightness is the only way to keep the interior dry.

     

    The environment will win. Water can seep and wick into the tiniest of cracks or gaps, right side up, up side down - no matter the water will get in. Where water does wick in, moisture will work in through air expansion and contraction due to heat and cold bringing in the humidity and eventually leading to condensation.

     

    Ammo cans and lock and locks stay dry as long as they don't corrode through (ammo cans) or crack (lock n locks). Quality paint can help deter both of those situations.

     

    I recall recently pulling an ammo can from behind a small water fall where the rocks surrounding the ammo can were damp, and probably stayed that way most of the time. Contents dry as a bone. Another recent cache had the ammo can chained under a storm drain pipe where it was obvious that it would get inundated by water during heavy rains. Contents also dry as a bone. Finally another secured to a tree on a creek bank. We arrived at the cache just 24 hours after the creek had been out of its banks, the cache had been under rushing water based on the mud lines on the trees. Contents - you guessed it - bone dry. That one surprised me as we had drive by the general area the day before visiting the cache and decided to come back the next day based on water levels.

     

    That's why the ammo can is the container of choice. A small investment up front yields a dry cache that can have a long life and many happy visitors. Lock n locks are a good 2nd choice, painted with Krylon Fusion camo paint, they are also water tight but subject to cracking over the years due to sun and cold. However they can last a long time depending on location.

  11. If you perform this logging function at home and in the nude, then it is skinny dipping...

     

    Try to avoid skinny dipping your coins at public Internet cafe's, public library terminals, or while driving.

     

    **Puts on "Coed Naked Geocoin Dipping" T-shirt**

     

    Couldn't resist...

  12. While cruising the REI website today I noticed a link on the left of the page referencing Geocaching. I've never purchased anything from REI (and was looking at convertible pants) but maybe my visits during the Oregon 400t special created a cookie to target articles in to my liking.

     

    None the less - the article was interesting and revolves around Steve Wood from San Francisco, and the founding member of the Geocachers of the Bay Area club.

     

    It's a great article for beginners and seasoned veterans alike. It is written in a Q and A interview format.

     

    I searched the forums and couldn't find a link to the article so here it is: http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/g...+expert+qa.html

     

    Note to moderators: I waffled about a bit about whether to put this in 'Geocaching Topics' or here in 'Getting Started' since it seems to touch both areas. Move or leave as you see appropriate.

     

    Happy caching!

  13. It just occurred to me that the larger posts (4" x 4" PVC posts for example) are large enough to hold a rather long piece of PVC pipe under the cap. Hmmmmmm...

     

    Maybe a 'regular' size fence post cache is in order for my first hide... Now just where oh where. . .

     

    BTW: newspaper stuffed down the post to secure items sounds like a great idea...

  14. This may go without saying however my experience indicates that it is often overlooked.

     

    A dry log book that is easy to write in is a must. I don't think any cacher is fond of trying to delicately handle a damp/wet log to sign and then replace.

     

    If you are doing a micro - a quality container is a must. Smalls using PB Jars need an 'inner' container (film can etc.) to keep the log dry. Even ammo cans and lock and locks benefit from a good zip lock baggie for the log. Zippies need to be changed every now and then too.

  15. I lost this thread as if fell down the page, but I'm pulling the trigger on one of these myself. I picked up a LowePro Inverse 100 AW for my DSLR and a few lenses but we need something to equip the other caching necessities.

     

    I think this is going to make a very economical fit - if the wife just can decide on a color that she can tolerate. I think Tan is in the running - but I like the desert camo. This bag looks awesome

  16. Here are two great threads on this topic:

     

    Here in this forum: http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=221262

     

    Over in the Technology Forum: http://forums.Groundspeak.com/GC/index.php?showtopic=220993

     

    Basically - a quality charger is a must, one that discharges some believe to be better for conditioning and extending the life of NiMH batteries, and go with high mAh ratrings. Some also love the new low discharge NiMH batteries since they don't lose their charge while just lying around quite so badly as regular NiMH batteries.

  17. I cache so there will be a list of all the possible places that my wife hid my body will be conveniently available for the authorities to search in the even she decides to off me.

     

    Or. . . .

     

    Maybe . . .

     

    To get out, get some fresh air and enjoy friends, family while getting some exercise, seeing amazing places, practicing photography, discovering myself, rediscovering my wife, watching the flowers and animals all while getting to play with technology along the way :ph34r:

  18. I'm assuming that you do not have any contacts or know anyone in the area.

     

    You could place them and then solicit finders of the caches to try and develop a partnership where they can help maintain the caches for you.

     

    Ideally you would really want that worked out before placing and run it in a co-ownership type setup.

     

    Since it sounds like this is going to be a series, you could consider allowing any willing maintainers to adopt a cache or two in the series as a sort of compensation for helping you out with them.

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