scott9282

Just received the auto nav kit for my 60C. I use the beanbag mount and it seems to work very well. An added bonus is that it is simple to take the thing off the dash and stash it, thereby eliminating a mount being visible to theft minded persons. Granted it won't stop a break-in, but it eliminates having an advertisement that there might be something worth stealing in the car.

Got it done, thanks to all for the responses. Closing topic so we can read more interesting stuff than my inability to navigate websites.

My premium membership is due to expire the middle of this month. How do I renew the subscription without having to change my screename? (At least that's what I think happens if I've read the FAQs correctly) There just doesn't seem to be an easy way to do this through the "My Account" link, so I'd appreciate any help. I already e-mailed Groundspeak, but after four days I haven't received an answer. Thanks in advance.

First, decide what you want the GPS to do. Mapping ability, built in compass, memory and so on. Next, when you have it narrowed down, handle the various units you have on your list. Some will just not feel "right" in your hand, no matter what their features. Last, consider your budget. Think about spending a little more cash to get something that you think you don't need now, but might in the future. A good example is mapping capability. True, you can cache without mapping ability, however GPS unit usage tends to "creep" with ownership. Today you only use it for mapping, next month you might decide it'll make a great aid for in-car navigation. And so on.

Just for the record, LoJack does not use GPS technology at all. That is a different type of automobile alarm system. It is a radio based system. LoJack is a small two piece unit that is installed in a hidden void in your car. It has a specific unit identifier code, such as GZ001 for example. It is a radio transmitter/receiver. The way it works is, if your car is stolen, when the police file the report, the National Crime Information Computer (NCIC), which has a listing of all LoJack equipped vehicles, will see a match and send a message to the LoJack computer system. The LoJack computer system then sends out, via radio waves in cities and areas served by LoJack, a coded signal to the affected LoJack unit. This activates the LoJack transmitter. The transmitter will send out a signal, which is heard as an audible beep and seen on a special LoJack receiver mounted in police vehicles. The signal starts out with one beep per second for the first 30 minutes after activation. It then slows down to one beep/signal per 30 seconds until an officer receives the signal and either inputs through his in-car data terminal or the dispatcher inputs the received code. This then speeds up the signal again to once a second to aid in tracking. In the poice car the receiver unit displays the LoJack code on an alpha-numeric readout, and by using a circular LED display and an LED strength meter, shows the direction and approximate distance to the LoJack unit. As the police vehicle gets closer, the LoJack receiver changes the readout range to reflect closing on the target. It is possible, using LoJack, to drive right up to the stolen vehicle, or in some cases, the chop shop where many stolen vehicles are being taken apart. LoJack is actually a very simple system for police to use, and at least in New York City, is also installed on one of the police helicopter units. The GPS based car alarms require that a dispatcher receive and properly transmit the data from the stolen car. Having had much experience with both systems, I can say that I preferred to depend on my own interpetation of a signal, rather than depend on someone sitting possibly thousands of miles away trying to play telephone tag with a dispatcher who was trying to get clear information.

Trying out the units in your hand is the absolute best advice that I will second. As an example, I recently replaced a Magellan SportrakMap that refuses to remember there are satellites in the sky (Thales tried to help, but it's a lost cause, an error of 170 feet is a good day for that thing now.) First I tried a Lowrance iFinder. It didn't seem to fit my hand, and the interface was just not as intuitive for me as I would've liked. I now own a Garmin 60C, which fits perfectly. This after trying a 76C for fit. Just too bulky for me, but that's a personal taste. As far as the "s" part of the 76CS, this stands for the barometric sensor and the electronic compass. Personally I don't need a barometric sensor, since I feel they are, by definition, affected by changes in barometric pressure as well as altitude. And the compass, well I prefer the hand held Silva Ranger Ultra that I currently use. The batteries will never give out on it, and as long as magnetic North stays where it belongs, not too much problems there. Also a nice backup when used with the paper topo maps I print out. Happy caching.

I have a Sportrak Map that exhibited similar problems. Lost satellite lock, the satellite page would go blank, the EPE would jump to numbers in the 500-600 foot range, and so on. I tried the Magellan website suggestion of a software upgrade, that was no help, and in fact seemed to make matters worse. I tried going back to the previous software, also no help. I even sent the unit to Magellan for service. They said they installed a new satellite almanac and that should have fixed the problem. Nope. So I made the only solution I could think of. I bought another brand's GPSr. Started with a Lowrance, didn't like it and returned it. Now the very happy owner of a Garmin 60C. Fits my hand like a glove, seems well behaved with satellite locks and is just a nice unit to have. Now just trying to figure out if I should by City Navigator or City Select.

So, there I am, all happy and pleased. After much searching, and in no small way much thanks to the members of this forum, I ordered a Garmin 60C from Amazon. This after owning a Sportrak that no longer seems able to trak, and a Lowrance that just didn't "fit" me. So, anyway there I am, ordered up on the 60C, for that great price of $249. Was supposed to be here by Christmas, ordered on Dec 15. Supposed to arrive on Dec 21 at the latest. The 21st comes and goes, no 60C. I call Amazon (although finding the phone assistance page is a bit of a chore, but they are prompt once you find it) and tell them my tale of woe. Today I receive an e-mail that they can't make Christmas, but they are sending out another 60C via expedited shipping. Amazon had a problem, the 60C being sent to God knows where in Massachusetts for some reason instead of NY, and they stepped right up, no arguing, no hassel, and they fixed the problem. That is, in my mind, the mark of a great store. Anyone can offer great prices on merchandise, but when things go wrong, and in this case due to a Post Office error, they stepped up and made it right. Of course the irony of a GPS unit getting lost on its way to its destination has not been lost on Family9282, especially Mrs. 82. But it does make for a good story.

Most important of all, insure that the GPSr that you purchase is a mapping unit. Not all are, and without mapping capability, it doesn't matter what mapping software you have, you won't be able to load any maps. I know that seems a bit obvious, but sometimes we overlook the obvious in search of the complex.

Au contraire because as everyone knows... there's always room for Jello. <much shame at the above post, but I just couldn't let it slide>

Another factor when buying a GPSr is how it fits you. Your question about button placement and such can only be answered by you. Try the different models and makes out that you are interested in. As an example, I test-held the Garmin 76 and 60C models. I found that while I could handle both with ease (biggish hands), I felt the 60C would be more comfortable for me to use. I checked out the Explorist line, I own a Magellan Sportrak Map, I had and then returned a Lowrance IFinder (just didn't like the way the unit felt, amongst other issues), and after all that I decided on the Garmin 60C (available online at Amazon for $249, a very good price.).

Thank you for the heads up on the Garmin 60C. Just placed the order tonight. $249.99 was too good a price to pass up.

Thanks for all the replies. Went with the Garmin 60C for $249.99 at Amazon. Closing the thread.

In my local Costco, they have an Explorist 400 with the following, the Explorist (of course), Mapsend TOPO 3D, a 256MB card, a belt clip case, and assorted cables and such. The price is listed at $349.99. There is an instant manufacturer's rebate at the register of $100. Then there is a mail-in rebate of $50. Brings it down to $200 for the whole thing. Is this a good deal or can I do better. And apologies if this has been asked and answered.

I recently purchased, then returned a GPS from Page Computers. The website tells you they are in California. Wishing to expedite my purchase, I paid for quicker shipping. The people on the "live" help chat were no help at all. Nothing is posted on their website in a timely manner, in fact it wasn't until four days after I received the GPSr that a shipped entry was made on my account. When I got the GPSr, that's when I found out that it wasn't shipped from California, as the website leads you to believe, but from Albany, NY. Had I known that I never would have paid extra for the shipping. When I returned the unit, I had to go through some minor hurdles, nothing too complex. The problem started when I tried to verify the return was received. Nothing on the website dedicated to returns, nothing from the "live" help, just waiting. It took two weeks for the return to show up. The customer service at Page is extremely poor, I would not recommend using them.

I was unable to find any mention of these on the Garmin website. Am I looking in the wrong place or is this an example of vaporware? Please don't let it be vaporware. I really want one of these. Did that sound too desperate? Not desperate enough? I can kick it up or down a notch, as required.

Am I the only one hyperventilating over this? Since I returned the Lowrance (sorry guys, I'm just not enough of a computer guy to make it work with GSAK), I've been looking at alternatives. A 60Cx just might fit that bill.

Go with the Map60. That will give enough geek factor to keep the kid happy, and it will also give you an option for further gifts (other mapping software). Now, can I tell you which Garmin I want for Christmas? I been good. Sort of. Well, in front of witnesses anyway.

On a side note, some reconditioned units are not there because they needed repair, they are simply returns that a customer wasn't satisfied with, repackaged and sent out as refurbished. I know this because I had recently purchased a Lowrance Ifinder Pro. After getting frustrated with the hoops I had to jump through with GSAK, I returned the unit. (Sorry Lowrance guys, I'm just not up to hassling, I just want it to work) I asked and was told the unit would be repackaged as refurbished. Just my two pennies on the subject. BTW, when I'm ready to jump, it's gonna be a Garmin. Done the Magellan thing, have the headaches to prove it. Maybe a 60C.

Just on a guess, if you want to download cache data, try GSAK. Look in this forum for the GSAK entries. You can also access GSAK through the geocaching.com welcome page, just follow the links.

GeoPup is on the right track. A better idea might be to model a hill out of clay. Now just cut the model horizontally at specific intervals, say 1 inch. Now lay those cut pieces of the model on a piece of paper, oriented correctly, and trace their outline. Do this with each section of cut off clay. Now look at what is on the paper. A topographic map of the hill model. Granted, that is simplifying things a lot, but that's the general idea. Each contour line is a horizontal slice of the terrain.

There is another advantage to having paper topo maps and a seperate compass. GPSr units are, after all, electronic devices. And, as we all know, these devices can on occasion cease working. Now, if you're in a local area doing your caching, this isn't too big a problem. However if you've decided to combine caching with camping, just to use an example, then having a topo map and compass can mean the difference between getting back to camp or wandering around lost for hours or days. Learning how to read and use topo maps isn't difficult, once you get the idea in your brain about relating what you see on the map to what you see on the land. Then it's just a great way to keep track of caches, backup your ability to find your way home, and just enjoy the whole thing a lot more.

Along those lines, does the Quest "play well" with GSAK? Or is that a dumb question?

As far as the actual cost of the materials used in the manufacture of GPSr units, what are we talking about here? A small amount of plastic, some silicon for the various chipsets, and some solder and wiring. All told, over the entire production run, maybe that $10 estimate is too high. Now, what are you actually paying for? The knowledge base that went into the construction and design of the unit. The talent of the engineering staff, and so on. You are paying for the knowledge. Sort of like the old joke: A printing press breaks down. The owner of the print shop calls a repairman in. The repairman looks at the printing press for about 10 minutes, goes to his toolbox and takes out a small hammer. The repairman reaches into the press, taps a couple of times, throws the switch and the press comes to life. The repairman hands the bill to the print shop owner. "$505! But all you did was tap it with a hammer." The repairman tells the owner that the five dollars is for the hammer tap, the five hundred is for knowing where to tap. You are paying for knowledge. And in the case of the Airmapper that was replaced with a new unit, that is more cost effective for Lowrance than trying to repair the returned unit. Plus they create good customer service for very little cost. That's just good business. The returned unit either gets broken down for parts, scrapped or possibly repaired at some future point and sold as refurbed. No real loss to the company, and good feelings from the consumer.

Topo is your friend. 24K topo maps are very detailed. The elevation changes are the lines on the map. On 24K maps, they are generally showing an elevation change of 20 feet. If you think of a topo map as if someone took all the land features and cut them into horizontal planes, each plane 20 feet thick. Now they traced those lines on paper, and that gives the way the topographical features lie. The above poster is correct, close lines mean a steep slope, lines further apart mean a more gentle slope. As far as the topo maps in GPSr software, I believe they are based on 1:100,000 scale, which means that each line will show a larger elevation change (I believe it is 100 feet, but not a hundred percent sure on that number). You can order a custom topo from Offroute.com for virtually anywhere in the USA. These are what are called 24K or 1:24,000 scale maps. Get one for an area you are familiar with and go out and experiment with it. You will be very pleased with your results. BTW, I find that using a regular compass that is adjustable for Magnetic North/True North declination is invaluable for map use and also caching.