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Pvc Cache Container.


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Posted

I recently visited my second or third cache that was made out of PVC pipe, I think it is a wonderful idea, tbe first one I went to was suspended in the air. I was wondering how would you go about making one? In more specific, what would I use as an end cap, and what would you use to get the contents out if this is a large pipe, being that it is very restricted for space?

Posted

Hi,

 

You can buy pvc pipe in lots of sizes...I've seen 12 inch diameter at our local lowes. Once you've bought the pipe, you can buy end pieces, probably one plain cap, and one screw-cap along with thassembly to mate it to the pipe.

 

All of the pvc pieces are connected with a type of pvc glue that actually breaks down the piece you smear it on, so that once it dries, they are essentially one piece. this ends up making a pretty watertight assembly.

 

nfa-jamie

Posted

Your other issues are (1) figuring out an end cap assembly that doesn't get stuck, requiring a wrench and/or messy lubricants, and (2) finding an appropriate hiding spot. PVC cache containers are mistaken for bombs more frequently than other container types. They are fine for out in the woods, 2 miles from the nearest road, and a really dumb idea in a suburban park across the street from a school.

Posted (edited)

As to Mopars link, those people are talking more about how pvc caches are most assosciated with homeade bombs.

 

One of the particular pvc caches that I have went to was a pvc pipe down in a fence post, that when you removed the cap there was a rope that pulled the cache up also.

Edited by treasure_hunter
Posted (edited)
As to Mopars link, those people are talking more about how pvc caches are most assosciated with homeade bombs.

You're right, nobody's ever posted about how to make a cache out of PVC pipe before, and I'm sure anyone searching for such a thread would come up empty-handed.

 

Just like nobody has ever asked how to make an underwater cache, or what's the hardest cache you've found, or is it ok to go back to a cache for a tb, or how do you look for a cache, or what sort of cover you use if there are muggles around, or how to add a background to a cache page, or how to become an approver, or if there are any caches in DC, or how to fix a scatched screen, or..............................................................

Edited by Mopar
Posted
As to Mopars link, those people are talking more about how pvc caches are most assosciated with homeade bombs.

 

One of the particular pvc caches that I have went to is the Lexington Tool Cache in Lexington, KY. I hate to give it away in case anybody ever goes to it but oh well, it was a pvc pipe down in a fence post, that when you removed the cap there was a rope that pulled the cache up also.

Your not giving anything away....this type hide has been discussed before.

My advise it to go to a store where they sell PVC pipe, and you will see many end caps, different sized pipes, and specific glues for this kind of project.

Posted

It is perhaps better form when discussing cache container types or hiding methods to simply say "Once I found a cache that was made out of PVC pipe and hidden in a post" than to disclose the name of the cache. If I were the owner of the cache you mentioned, I'd be unhappy right now.

 

Waiting for thread titled "how to edit a forum post?" in 5... 4... 3...

Posted

The big question that should be answered for the OP is:

 

How do you make a PVC cache waterproof!

 

I've yet to find one of these "pipe bombs" that was not soggy and gross inside, except for one that was recently placed and hadnt had time to get soggy.

Posted

I'm pretty much thinkin that seeing as PVC is made to carry water in transit, the glue that is made for it specifically, if used by following the directions, would seal it so it does not leak. This type glue kind of "welds" the PVC pieces together, so other type glues will not work as well.

Posted

Wander down to your local hardware store - Home Depot or Lowe's if there's one around, and you'll be amazed at the container ideas that come to you as you look through the plumbing and electrical supplies!

 

A good idea for tubes and micros where the log and trinkets can be hard to get to - include a wire that's the same length as the inside of the cache and make a small 90° bend at each end to grab and pull the innards out.

 

This works especially well with micros - glue the wire along the bottom or top edge of the log and you give finders an easy way to pull out the log AND a spindle to hold onto to wrap the log around tightly.

 

Have fun!

Posted

Unless you have the parts lying around, PVC pipe caches can be pretty expensive to put together. I priced one at Home Depot once and I was pushing past $15 with all the parts.

 

There are other problems too. To make them watertight, they have to be tightened so snugly that they are nearly impossible to open. You can resolve this by attaching a tool.

 

Also there is the issue of them being found by muggles. A PVC pipe cache screams "pipe bomb" to the uninitiated, so you have to take extra care as to where and how you hide them.

 

With all those negatives I think its easier just to shell out $4 for an ammo can.

Posted

You're right, nobody's ever posted about how to make a cache out of PVC pipe before, and I'm sure anyone searching for such a thread would come up empty-handed.

Just like nobody has ever asked how to make an underwater cache, or what's the hardest cache you've found, or is it ok to go back to a cache for a tb, or how do you look for a cache, or what sort of cover you use if there are muggles around, or how to add a background to a cache page, or how to become an approver, or if there are any caches in DC, or how to fix a scatched screen, or..............................................................

Sounds like Mopar could use a little break from the forums.

Posted
Your other issues are (1) figuring out an end cap assembly that doesn't get stuck, requiring a wrench and/or messy lubricants, . . .

Excellent Point! One of the most fun caches I searched for and found was PVC, but the last person had tightened the end cap so much I could not loosen it. :ph34r:

 

Fortunately, the cache was close to the road and my car. I took it over there, dug around in my emergency kit to get out my jumper cables, and used the clamp to open the cap.

 

If that cache had been a mile from the road . . . ;)

 

I really don't want to have to add channel locks to my "Ten Essentials," so I hope people won't close the end caps too tightly . . . :D

Posted

Before you invest in a lot of PVC and plumbing tools, check your land use regs that govern the area you want to place it in.

 

I googled pvc and geocache to find a picture of one for a talk tomorrow night. I found about 7 listings for various state and city parks around the US that banned these cache types. (Just on the first page.)

Posted

i bought rubber ends for mine, like the kind you might see on the end of a pole on a flag in the marching band. I'm not sure exactly what they are called, but I'm headed to HD and I'll let you know when I get home...

 

They seem to be watertight and arent a pain in the bottom to get off...

Posted

You may be able to find transparent pvc pipe as well, as for medical uses... I'm not sure. This would be alot better if you could see the contents before you open it. Just dont put an alarm clock and red glow sticks in for trading items... <_<

Posted

Transparent pipe is very costly.

 

Sealing pvc water tight is relativly simple.

 

Glue one end shut with a cap or plug. Use a "test plug" to seal the other end. A test plug is uses to pressure test plumbing it consist of a rubber puck between two metal washers with a bolt and wing nut running through the center. When the wing nut id tightened it draws the washers together pushing the rubber out and thus sealing the pipe. Test Plugs cost about the same as a threaded fitting and threaded cap combined.

 

That said, the whole thing will cost you more than an ammo can. Plus you will be left with a section of PVC since the hardware store usually only sells pipe in 8" or 10" sections.

 

You should start a thread on how to prepare an ammo can to be used as a cache container now.

Posted
Transparent pipe is very costly.

 

Sealing pvc water tight is relativly simple.

 

Glue one end shut with a cap or plug. Use a "test plug" to seal the other end. A test plug is uses to pressure test plumbing it consist of a rubber puck between two metal washers with a bolt and wing nut running through the center. When the wing nut id tightened it draws the washers together pushing the rubber out and thus sealing the pipe. Test Plugs cost about the same as a threaded fitting and threaded cap combined.

 

That said, the whole thing will cost you more than an ammo can. Plus you will be left with a section of PVC since the hardware store usually only sells pipe in 8" or 10" sections.

 

You should start a thread on how to prepare an ammo can to be used as a cache container now.

Tried that. Test plug was next to impossible to remove after the cache had been "in the wild" for a couple months. Needed a screw-driver to pry it out.

 

Tried a rubber end-cap that slipped over the end and was held on with a hose clamp. Leaked.

 

Ditched the PVC and stuck an ammo can in the spot. End of problem.

Posted

As an alternative to PVC pipe and $15 or so of construction expenses, consider a mortar shell case or rocket case. Here is an example from Omaha's Surplus

 

MSC559lg.jpg

 

It's designed to be waterproof. It's designed to be easy to open when needed. The only prep work is removing the military markings and labeling it as a geocache.

 

Not that I've ever done that, mind you. :D

Posted
I'm pretty much thinkin that seeing as PVC is made to carry water in transit, the glue that is made for it specifically, if used by following the directions, would seal it so it does not leak....

Alot of times, it's not the glued seams that leak...It's those screw-on end caps. water gets in through the threads.

Posted
That said, the whole thing will cost you more than an ammo can. Plus you will be left with a section of PVC since the hardware store usually only sells pipe in 8" or 10" sections.

 

 

A lot more. As I mentioned earlier when I priced the parts for a basic pipe container it was over $15. That was without any test plugs or other parts that woul probably bring the price up further.

 

The mortar cases that Lep linked to are a good alternative. I've found a few caches in them and they were all nice and dry. There is an o ring around the thread that seals out water. The only drawback is that you have to pour everything out to get at the contents. When I've found these I didn't even bother looking through the stuff and in several cases missed a TB that I could have helped along. Still, they they keep the cache dry and of all the PVC pipe caches I've found I can only think of one that was dry inside and that required a screwdriver to get inside.

Posted
That said, the whole thing will cost you more than an ammo can. Plus you will be left with a section of PVC since the hardware store usually only sells pipe in 8" or 10" sections.

 

 

A lot more. As I mentioned earlier when I priced the parts for a basic pipe container it was over $15. That was without any test plugs or other parts that woul probably bring the price up further.

 

The mortar cases that Lep linked to are a good alternative. I've found a few caches in them and they were all nice and dry. There is an o ring around the thread that seals out water. The only drawback is that you have to pour everything out to get at the contents. When I've found these I didn't even bother looking through the stuff and in several cases missed a TB that I could have helped along. Still, they they keep the cache dry and of all the PVC pipe caches I've found I can only think of one that was dry inside and that required a screwdriver to get inside.

I don't know if this one 'GCGGP3' is among your PVC trophies or not. I found it and it was bone dry also.

 

There might be others out there.

Posted

The reason PVC pipe caches that have screw on lids leak is because the threads on the end caps are tapered threads. That is if you look closley at them they are sort of triangular shaped. They are designed that way so that they will not loosen up once they are tight. I use wax on one I have near my house and every once in awhile I have to re-wax it but since its within walking distance its not a problem. It seems to stay water proof when I keep the wax on it but it leaks otherwise.

Posted (edited)
As an alternative to PVC pipe and $15 or so of construction expenses, consider a mortar shell case or rocket case.  Here is an example from Omaha's Surplus

 

MSC559lg.jpg

 

It's designed to be waterproof.  It's designed to be easy to open when needed.  The only prep work is removing the military markings and labeling it as a geocache.

 

Not that I've ever done that, mind you.  :D

OOOH! fake pipe bombs and motar casings, what will they think of next to get bomb squads on edge..... :D it's a darn good thing you havent done that

Edited by camo-crazed
Posted

I have only found 1 PVC container cache. Many of the logs were complaints of not being able to open it, and some of the logs commented aout the suspicious-looking nature of the container.

 

Ed

Posted
You may be able to find transparent pvc pipe as well, as for medical uses... I'm not sure. This would be alot better if you could see the contents before you open it. Just dont put an alarm clock and red glow sticks in for trading items... :laughing:

The clear pipe you see is LEXAN and it is some what expensive. It is not PVC and your have to find endcaps etc for it and probable just have to use epoxy to seal it up as PVC glue will not work the same on it as on PVC.

cheers

Posted

To make your pvc cache watertight all it takes is a little silicone caulk. On the bottom cap put the silicone on the threads with the cap screwed on tight. This cap can be removed at home if need be.

 

On the top cap, tighten the cap to where you find it tough to undo, then back off 1 full turn. Mark a mark on the threads where the cap ends. remove cap and apply the silicone to the threads from the mark on down to the end of the threads. Let it dry.

 

When you put the cap on it will seat against the silicone and still be fairly easy to remove.

 

We have one cache that has been out for about a year and have no complaints about how tight the cap was or that it was wet (not even damp). The only complaint was about a rattlesnake nearby!

 

John

Posted

The only caches I have found using a pvc pipe were actually in the ground up to the top. It just looked like the opening to a sewage pipe.

 

problem 1 against the guidelines?

 

problem 2 damp inside.

 

problem 3 had to reach my whole arm inside to get the logbook and got mud on my shirt. :mad:

 

problem 4 the petrolie jelly that was in the cache to lube the threads made everything a bit slimy.

 

Like others have said, an ammo can is a good way to go.

 

Joe Smith

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