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New-How about some pointers on technique


SC-Yankee

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Hi folks, we're brand new to this sport so I'd like to ask some of you for techniques you use. On our first hunt we were unsuccessful due to batteries running out. On our next attempt we found the cache (my partner did)while I was still working the GPS.

The technique that makes most sense to me, for a trail cache at least is to get one coord close (say N/S) and then work laterally (E/W) to close in for the find. Does this make sense? How do you folks do it?

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quote:
The technique that makes most sense to me, for a trail cache at least is to get one coord close (say N/S) and then work laterally (E/W) to close in for the find. Does this make sense? How do you folks do it?

 

Actually all I do is use the GPS to get me within about 10-20 feet of the area, then just start looking at the places that *I* would hide a cache. I find this to be the most successful method as your GPS will only get you so close.

 

Laurie

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It sounds like you're using the raw coordinates to find the cache. That's how I did it the first few times and it was not easy. Instead, plug the coordinates into your GPS, switch to your "navigation" screen and just follow the arrow. Once you find yourself within 40 feet or so of the cache site (40 feet is within the usual margin of error) start looking.

 

Note, for the navigation arrow to work, you must be moving fairly quickly. What happens to many novices is that when they slow down as they approach the cache site, they find the needle starts pointing all over, which is confusing. If this starts to happen walk back about 50 yards, the walk briskly in the same direction you had been. The directional arrow should then straighten out and you should see the distance to the cache decreasing.

 

If your GPS has mapping capability, you can also switch to that screen. I find it helps me a great deal when I'm going too slow for the directional needle to work. You can see on the screen where the cache is in relation to where you are standing.

 

[This message was edited by BrianSnat on August 05, 2002 at 04:43 AM.]

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I've known a couple of hunters to do the "Lat correct then fix the Lon" style of hunting. The only problem I see with that is that you may end up doing more bushwacking then necessary. If there's a findable path that curves around a corner 300 feet ahead and takes you within 10 feet of the cache, it'd be kinda silly to head off the trail and bushwack 300 feet just because your Latitude is correct.

 

As far as other suggestions, read this thread.

 

Markwell

Chicago Geocaching

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Thanks Markwell, I read the thread and found a lot of good pointers. I guess I really need to get a few under my belt to find the best way to go about it.

Thanks Brian, I hope you can help with the info I e-mailed you about.

Thanks Laurie, I'm thinking most of the fun may be in the hunt and the places visited. Even on the one we didn't find we had a good time

For anyone interested I didn't log the missed cache as a "did not find" because the fault was mine. I thought the batteries were new and you know what the say about thought.

Anyway we plan to go back after that missed one with fresh batteries.

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quote:
Originally posted by SC-Yankee:

 

 

For anyone interested I didn't log the missed cache as a "did not find" because the fault was mine. I thought the batteries were new and you know what the say about thought.

Anyway we plan to go back after that missed one with fresh batteries.


Just a thought - one thing that I have found works well (besides always having spare batteries) is that all my geocaching equipment (digital camera, gps, flashlight, headlamp) all use AA batteries.

This way if I *oops* and the batteries run out on the GPS, I can take spares out of the equipment that I don't need at the time (usually the camera).

Just something you may want to keep in mind when outfitting yourself for the great outdoors...

 

Laurie

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quote:
Originally posted by SC-Yankee:

...I didn't log the missed cache as a "did not find" because the fault was mine. I thought the batteries were new and you know what the say about thought.

Anyway we plan to go back after that missed one with fresh batteries.


You can still log a no-find, regardless of the reason. Or post it as a "note" if you don't want the frownie.

 

Of course it's up to you, but I log every search attempt, successful or not... and if not, regardless of the reason. Those make the best stories.

 

Jamie

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Thanks Laurie I'll keep that in mind for future trips. I will also keep spare batteries in my saddle bags. I have a "Ram Mount" on the handlebars and I am thinking of adding a 12 volt recepticle (Cigarette type) to the bike to save on battery power geting to the general area of the site. I have found that to come in handy since I don't have any topo maps as yet, but they're up there on my list.

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"Note, for the navigation arrow to work, you must be moving fairly quickly. What happens to many novices is that when they slow down as they approach the cache site, they find the needle starts pointing all over, which is confusing. If this starts to happen walk back about 50 yards, the walk briskly in the same direction you had been. The directional arrow should then straighten out and you should see the distance to the cache decreasing."

 

When I get close where the directional arrow becomes unreliable I use a compass to keep me going in the right direction. That works for me. Seems like the direction is what fails to update as you slow down.

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Right you are HJS, that's the point at which I would try watching the coordinates to get a closer fix since the directional arrow doesn't register such slow or small movements. I haven't done enough to really test this theory and I have been told it is the hard way to go. Time will tell, and being the hard headed Irishman that I am, I'm sure it will icon_biggrin.gif

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Right you are HJS, that's the point at which I would try watching the coordinates to get a closer fix since the directional arrow doesn't register such slow or small movements. I haven't done enough to really test this theory and I have been told it is the hard way to go. Time will tell, and being the hard headed Irishman that I am, I'm sure it will icon_biggrin.gif

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I don't know if this works with all GPSes, but we have had great luck with the "Magellan Hula".

 

We cache with two little kids: we almost always wind up going "too slow" when we get near the cache. What we do, though, when we get within a couple of hundred feet, is do the Hula.

 

To do the Hula, hold your GPS *very firmly* in one hand, then swing your arm as far left as it will go, then as far right as it will go. We repeat that about 3 times. Then hold the GPS still and let it settle.

 

We've gotten remarkable accuracy with our SporTrak Pro using that method.

 

I can't take credit for the Hula. I don't know who invented it, but Markwell and Pneumatic were the ones to clue me in about it.

 

Shannah

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As you increase your GPS use, you will gather many tracks, waypoints, and other data. A good software package that allows you to edit your data, upload and download data, and handle maps will add another dimension to your Geocaching.

 

EasyGPS is FREE !!!! I liked it so much, and say the potential, so I bought ExpertGPS, which is not free, but I do not regret it.

 

One of the many things I use software for is printing out a map of the cache hunt track to keep in my personal logbook. I also sort my waypoints and tracks by use. I have one master databank called ALLWAYPOINTS, one called GEOCACHING, one called HIKING, and one called BENCHMARKS. You get the idea.

 

Mike. KD9KC.

El Paso, Texas.

 

Seventeen minutes after her FIRST call for help, police officers arrived to find Ronyale White dead.

 

Prohibiting self defense is the ultimate crime. Police carry guns to protect themselves. What protects YOU ???

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