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Washington State


Pepper

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[*](broken record) I would like a star for Olympia with some other mark for Seattle. People will think Seattle is the capital of Washington! :blink: How about a flag similar to Oregon's coins?

Then you'll need to blame the education system for that. This coin isn't about educating folks about the capital of the State.

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What were the metal options?  I wonder what this would look like in silver...

ws-coin1-9silver.jpg

oh my gosh I love this one!!!!

 

When I had my coins made I did two colors the brass and silver of the two I partial to my silver coin.

 

I'm with MarcusArelius on one color side to keep the cost down I also think it looks better. (only my opinion)

 

NavDog you are truly talented!

 

Pepper

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Sorry for going a bit off-topic - Navdog, what software do you use for these designs? I use Photoshop when deisgning my coins but am not skilled enough to get the text to wrap around a curve as successfully as you do. Also, I use a gradient for giving the design a metallic look but it doesn't come out looking as "coin-like" as yours. Secrets? :blink:

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I vould vote to keep the color on one side to hold down the cost.

If memory serves, going with silver is cheaper. That might offset the two sided color cost too. But, who needs just the state on the back colored? Might as well drop that and save a little unless the Geocaching logo is getting colored.

 

Love that silver color. The mountains look much better for some reason.

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Sorry for going a bit off-topic - Navdog, what software do you use for these designs?  I use Photoshop when deisgning my coins but am not skilled enough to get the text to wrap around a curve as successfully as you do.  Also, I use a gradient for giving the design a metallic look but it doesn't come out looking as "coin-like" as yours.  Secrets? :blink:

I use Photoshop7, but it doesn't have the ability to write text along a path, so I do the text in Illustrator10 and paste it into the design. The new CS version of Photoshop has this feature though. Hopefully I will get the update soon.

 

I've been keeping the gloss and relief of the design down so it is a little easier to see the design elements. Obviously the actual coins would be brighter and have more relief. I don't know if there are different levels of relief to choose from, but may be something to consider.

Edited by Navdog
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But, who needs just the state on the back colored? Might as well drop that and save a little unless the Geocaching logo is getting colored.

I don't understand. Nobody "needs" color on either side, but I for one think it adds to the asthetic appeal when done tastefully. Are you saying you don't like color, or simply want to keep the costs down?

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But, who needs just the state on the back colored?  Might as well drop that and save a little unless the Geocaching logo is getting colored.

I don't understand. Nobody "needs" color on either side, but I for one think it adds to the asthetic appeal when done tastefully. Are you saying you don't like color, or simply want to keep the costs down?

I said that primarily to respond to the effort to keep the cost down. It does help drive home the "Evergreen State" motto and color is always good. If we need to save money, the state should be the first to go.

 

I'd personally like to see it stay and perhaps color the Groundspeak logo too.

 

Clearer? :blink:

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With Moun10Bikes coin, having the green on the outside of the one side helps balance the smaller amount of green on the bike, I'm not sure if that is really necessary for the Washington coin, since the green on the state covers a fair amount of the area. I look at both sides and see a nice balance of color and spacing of elements. No need to make it too busy, but if more color on the back will justify the extra cost, then that may be a good argument.

 

I think in the long run, color on two sides will make a nicer coin. Yes, there may not be quite as many in circulation because of the additional cost, but they will be a much more coveted item.

 

Shhh! Don't tell anyone down here in Portland, :blink: but I really like the look of this design compared to the Oregon coin.

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FROG! Ha! I love it! Can that be pulled off?

 

I just ran some numbers based on what Pepper posted earlier for Silver Coins that are Enamel painted on one or both sides.

 

One Side Cost per Coin $3.32

Two Sided Cost per Coin $3.61

Disclaimer - These values are not final and are just an approximation!

 

Those figures should include die charges, shipping, and Pepper's 15% discount on 500 coins. It does not include an additional distribution cost from Pepper's house. :D

 

So, color is costing an aditional $0.31 for the back side when you figure in the other factors.

 

Navdog: Your secret is safe with us. :blink:

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I use Photoshop7, but it doesn't have the ability to write text along a path, so I do the text in Illustrator10 and paste it into the design. The new CS version of Photoshop has this feature though.

I do have CS and completely forgot that they added this capability. I was still trying to use the old (and less useful for this purpose) warp text functionality. Thanks for the reminder/pointer!

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I’m totally sold on the #10 design, either in Silver or Brass makes no difference to me.

 

Money break down is as follows for design #10:

 

Antique Brass 100-299 coins = $4.00

This includes the base price of $2.80 per coin + enamel paint both sides (.70 cents, =.35 cents per side) with an epoxy cover on the Rainer side is an additional .50 cents with a grand total of 4.00 per coin not including $100.00 die cost (one time charge) and shipping!

Antique Brass 300-499 coins cost $3.95

 

Antique Silver 100-299 coins = $4.40

This includes the base price of $3.20 per coin + enamel paint both sides (.70 cents, =.35 cents per side) with an epoxy cover on the Rainer side is an additional .50 cents with a grand total of 4.40 per coin not including $100.00 die cost (one time charge) and shipping!

Antique Silver 300-499 coins costs $4.35

 

Less 15% per Rick at D & R Military Specialties because Pepper drives a hard bargain.

 

Pepper

M10B's coin is a sample of what the Antique Silver looks like and the coin below is mine in Antique Brass.

goldcoin.jpg

 

Pepper

Edited by Team SuperGenius
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I love the way that design #10 turned out! All things being equal, I would vote for the silver color (it's more expensive - that just figures, doesn't it? :blink:). My own coins were supposed to be bronze, but Rick's mockup accidentally came through as silver. I liked it so much that I changed my order! Silver really looks better on my mountains, and I think would do the same for Rainier.

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#10 gets my vote. I love the silver tones and the green outer circle balances the back. I think we shoot for an order of 500, to help lower the costs. But is that realistic? Do we have enough people who are interested? Pepper....Are you willing to take orders and money? That's asking A LOT from a person, it will take lots of spreadsheets, packing / shipping, etc. to organize everything. How does this work in other states where they have a coin?

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#10 gets my vote. I love the silver tones and the green outer circle balances the back.  I think we shoot for an order of 500, to help lower the costs.  But is that realistic?  Do we have enough people who are interested? Pepper....Are you willing to take orders and money? That's asking A LOT from a person, it will take lots of spreadsheets, packing / shipping, etc. to organize everything. How does this work in other states where they have a coin?

 

I'll take the orders and get the money sent off the D & R.

 

Pepper

Edited by Team SuperGenius
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Money break down is as follows for design #10:

 

Antique Silver 100-299 coins = $4.40

This includes the base price of $3.20 per coin + enamel paint both sides (.70 cents, =.35 cents per side) with an epoxy cover on the Rainer side is an additional .50 cents with a grand total of 4.40 per coin not including $100.00 die cost (one time charge) and shipping!

Antique Silver 300-499 coins costs $4.35

 

Less 15% per Rick at D & R Military Specialties because Pepper drives a hard bargain.

 

I think you have a choice of enamel or epoxy paint, so there would not be that additional .50 charge for the epoxy on the Rainier side you mentioned above. However, the epoxy paint option for both sides instead of the enamel will hold up much better, especially if folks don't buy the Air-tite containers to protect the coins. M10bike has experience with colored coins so he may have some insight as to which paint would be best.

 

You might look into getting a volume discount of the Air-tite type containers for folks also.

Edited by Navdog
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What's the difference between Nickel and Silver?

The difference between Nickel and Silver?

 

Nickel has an Atomic Number of 28.

Atomic mass 58.71 g.mol -1

Density 8.9 g.cm-3 at 20°C

Melting point 1453 °C

Boiling point 2732 °C

 

Silver has an Atomic Number of 47

Atomic mass 107.87 g.mol -1

Density 10.5 g.cm-3 at 20°C

Melting point 962 °C

Boiling point 2212 °C

 

Hope that helps. <_<

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What's the difference between Nickel and Silver?

The difference between Nickel and Silver?

 

Nickel has an Atomic Number of 28.

Atomic mass 58.71 g.mol -1

Density 8.9 g.cm-3 at 20°C

Melting point 1453 °C

Boiling point 2732 °C

 

Silver has an Atomic Number of 47

Atomic mass 107.87 g.mol -1

Density 10.5 g.cm-3 at 20°C

Melting point 962 °C

Boiling point 2212 °C

 

Hope that helps. :)

Groan. <_<

 

Silver has a larger atomic number. That seals it for me! :mad:

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What's the difference between Nickel and Silver?

The difference between Nickel and Silver?

 

Nickel has an Atomic Number of 28.

Atomic mass 58.71 g.mol -1

Density 8.9 g.cm-3 at 20°C

Melting point 1453 °C

Boiling point 2732 °C

 

Silver has an Atomic Number of 47

Atomic mass 107.87 g.mol -1

Density 10.5 g.cm-3 at 20°C

Melting point 962 °C

Boiling point 2212 °C

 

Hope that helps. <_<

Ah yes, numbers!!!!!! messed around with chem a time or two in college. Good to see that stuff again :-)

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Maybe it's just me...

It seems like "HOME OF" and "HEADQUARTERS" are pretty much the same thing and looks too wordy. Do they both need to be on it?

Either way, I'm down for a dozen or so.

Actually, maybe it should be "Home of the Geocaching World Headquarters"

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I have only one little quibble with 10 - shouldn't "Washington" and "The Evergreen State" be switched? As it stands, I read it as "The Evergreen State Washington". As I said it's a little quibble.

 

I'll try to get the wife to agree to about 20 for me.

I think you could read it both ways, but that is an easy change, and it probably flows better.

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I love them! Put me down for 10!

 

Only one thing, perhaps you should allow for at least a 4 digit number. If they were personal coins three is probably plenty, but for something with statewide.... possibly nationwide distribution, I have the feeling 999 won't be enough.

I just threw that number scheme in there in response to the discussion of the possibility that gc.com might allow for the tracking of the coins. If not, then a three or four number field would be placed there.

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I agree with Jester on the wording of Washington above and Evergreen State below. Also with the flip flopping of the word World, to read Home of the Geocaching World Headquarters. Having a good flow to the wording is important when we are doing such a Quality Coin! My vote is #10 in silver and I will buy some. Let me know final cost and how soon I need to get my mula to you.

 

 

Edit: I can never get it right the first time. <_<

Edited by Patudles
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Money break down is as follows for design #10:

 

Antique Silver 100-299 coins = $4.40

This includes the base price of $3.20 per coin + enamel paint both sides (.70 cents, =.35 cents per side) with an epoxy cover on the Rainer side is an additional .50 cents with a grand total of 4.40 per coin not including $100.00 die cost (one time charge) and shipping!

Antique Silver 300-499 coins costs $4.35

 

Less 15% per Rick at D & R Military Specialties because Pepper drives a hard bargain.

 

I think you have a choice of enamel or epoxy paint, so there would not be that additional .50 charge for the epoxy on the Rainier side you mentioned above. However, the epoxy paint option for both sides instead of the enamel will hold up much better, especially if folks don't buy the Air-tite containers to protect the coins. M10bike has experience with colored coins so he may have some insight as to which paint would be best.

 

You might look into getting a volume discount of the Air-tite type containers for folks also.

On M10B’s coins he has enamel paint on both sides and only has the epoxy on the mountain side which in my opinion is all we need to do with our coins. Now as far as protective covers they really are not needed because they don’t tarnish like the other state coins I’ve seen. That’s my experience I will give Rick a call tomorrow and find out what he has to say about the subject and report back with the information.

 

I’m not sure about the difference between the Nickel and the Antique Silver other than price off hand. I bought the Antique Silver and I am pleased with those coins.

Now I do know there is a .50cents difference between the Silver and the Nickel.

 

Pepper

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