How Do You Close In On The Cache

[milmat1]

I am wondering what screen to use at the cache site? I use the map screen on my sporttrak-map to get to the site. But then i don't know wich one to use for the final approach. I have used the coord. screen and walked until the numbers match perfectly, but the distance still says 50feet or something. If i walk by the distance screen, my coords. are way off.Whats the deal. If i go to where the coords. match or the distance is 0, Two or three times it will be in a different spot each time.

Even in waas mode with good signal it is pretty flakey. Is this normal? A buddy told me he watches the coord. screen and goes until the coords are exact and the cache is right there. He uses a sporttrak-color and i use a sporttrak map unit.

The two caches i have found i found far away from where they were marked.

Is it me ? is it the meggelan? or what, Discouraged!!!

[+Cache Viking]

I use the Map screen on my Garmin V untill i am within about 100-200 feet then I go to the Pointing Arrow ( sorry do not recall the screen name )

 

Each model GPS can read different, but should be fairly close. Mine to yours and both of ours to the one that set the cache may not read exactly the same.

Edited June 30, 2004 by Cache Viking

[Black Mage]

I switch between the maps on my Etrex Legend and the Navigation screen as needed, but when I goe to with in about 50ish feet I switch to the Navigation screen and walk until I get to the point that the arrow moves drastically. If I don't see the cache at that point, I walk out a few feet and start walking in circles spiraling towards the center and the cache. Of course it's that kind of behavior that causes onlookers to get nervous around you.

[+macatac1961]

I use the map screen of my Magellan Sportrak Pro then switch to the compass screen when I get close. It also helps to see the little sun icon in reference to the cache on the outside of the compass.

[milmat1]

Thanks a lot everyone for the quik replies. I geuss in time i will learn the best methods for me to use. As it seems everyone has kinda found there own way of doing the same thing. Thanks again .....MATT

[+Kealia]

I use the map screen of my Magellan Sportrak Pro then switch to the compass screen when I get close. It also helps to see the little sun icon in reference to the cache on the outside of the compass.

Ditto.

 

Keep in mind that coords can be off by 30 feet or so and that's normal.

 

It's a good idea to use the GPS to get you in the area, and then put it away and rely on the ole eyeballs for the final bit.

 

Opinions vary on this, but if I've got good signal, I'll use the GPS until about 30 feet or so. On many occasions I can get to within 2 feet, but more than likely 15 feet off is the norm.

[dampeoples]

Like has been said before, I use the compass screen until i'm within 50 or so feet, a different unit marked the waypoint, on a different day, so no telling where it is, better off to look for it!

[Major Catastrophe]

I'll toss in my thoughts just to keep this thread stirred up: I prefer to use the compass screen during most of the hunt. At close range it can get pretty flaky, so I may switch to the map screen, zoomed in to the 100' range (I also use the ST Map.) On the map screen, I try to compare my track line with the cache symbol to get an idea of which way.

 

Next choice is to go to the data screen and match up the lat and lon numbers. When none of these work, I will back off 50 feet or so and use a magnetic compass to shoot a line on the bearing I get from the GPS, then move around and shoot another compass line from about 90° different angle. Where those two lines cross, I hunt.

 

Then there are the times when all of the above methods still put me somewhere other than the cache location. When that happens, I try to think like a geocacher, and let the force lead me to the hide location. Sometimes that don't work, I guess the force isn't strong in my family...

[+CompuCash]

I use the map screen of my Magellan Sportrak Pro then switch to the compass screen when I get close. It also helps to see the little sun icon in reference to the cache on the outside of the compass.

 

I use the compass all the time - same unit - love it - need to learn to trust it because it takes me right to the cache most of the time -

[+Go JayBee]

If you have "tracking" enabled, it's sometimes useful to see if you are going in a circle around the final waypoint. Then you can make your circle smaller till you get real close. Then, use the pointer. It's all about what works best for you. I also like the pointer method for the last 200 - 300 feet.

JayBee

Edited July 1, 2004 by Go JayBee

[+Thot]

I am wondering what screen to use . . . for the final approach. I have used the coord. screen and walked until the numbers match perfectly, but the distance still says 50feet or something. If i walk by the distance screen, my coords. are way off.Whats the deal. If i go to where the coords. match or the distance is 0, Two or three times it will be in a different spot each time.  Is it me ? is it the meggelan? or what,    Discouraged!!!

Good questions. I'm a newbie too, and I posted a similar message a couple of days ago. I think my initial good luck gave me a false sense of how accurate these gadgets are. Mine is spec’d at a 50’ error, but the first couple of times, after a little walking around and coming at it from different directions it pointed to the location within 3’.

 

When I first got the gadget I did a couple of tests where I marked a couple of locations and then checked how close it came to locating them. It did very good – closer than 2’.

 

But, Monday when I went hunting and it began doing what you describe. It pointed to a location. To verify the result I got some distance away and went for it again. It pointed to an entirely different location. I did this 4 times and got 4 quite different locations. The Fartherest two were about 40’ apart – the closest about 20’ apart. There was simply too much dense/difficult shrubbery in the area covered by these readings to find a 1"x 2" microcache wrapped in camo tape, so I gave up.

 

I have a Magellam GPS 315. So far I have used the screen named “Plot Screen.” It shows an arrowhead in the center of the screen in the middle of a circle. The circle represents the distance indicated on the bottom left of the screen. Pressing the left/right arrows widens/narrows the area represented by the circle As I get closer to the target I change to smaller and smaller circles. The smallest circle is 0.1 mile or about 500 ft. The arrowhead points in the direction you are walking (your heading) the target is an icon on the screen. You can see where the target is related to the direction you are walking. If possible you change your direction until you are walking directly at the target. When the arrow is on top of the icon you are presumably at the spot. I remember (mark?) the spot, move away to a different angle from the target and come at it again. One good way (if possible) I’ve found it to go in the opposite direction as you came from (walk past it) then come back. If you stop at the same spot it is probable close. Sometimes you can’t walk directly toward it and must depend on figuring out when you are beside it – when it’s immediately off to your left or right. With my unit you must walk fairly briskly so it doesn't lose your heading/direction.

Edited July 1, 2004 by Thot

[vagabond]

The force Luke, Use the force

[+Go JayBee]

The force Luke, Use the force

Yup,

Look for "stickoflage" "barkoflage" "mossoflage"....the notorious "aligned sticks" "pile of rocks", etc.

 

There was a thread about all these types of camoflage quite awhile ago....that always come to mind when I'm out there searching out that TupperWare in the woods.

 

JayBee

[+GIDEON-X]

I normally start with the navigation screen (compass / needle), when with in 50' or so I use a hand held compass, this works for me. But then at other times I use thr GPSr the whole way ~~~ depends on the time, place, and my mood.

[+CompuCash]

The force Luke, Use the force

Yup,

Look for "stickoflage" "barkoflage" "mossoflage"....the notorious "aligned sticks" "pile of rocks", etc.

 

There was a thread about all these types of camoflage quite awhile ago....that always come to mind when I'm out there searching out that TupperWare in the woods.

 

JayBee

 

Yes !! something about my makeup (no not on my face - in my head!)

I am able to spot things that look out of place easily. I have found several stickoflage and rockoflage caches.

[+Renegade Knight]

When I'm in the car I'm on the map screen with the rubber band line to the cache. When I step out I switch to the pointer and use that. Normally I walk to 6-7' of ground zero and start looking. If I really want to see that magic 0 distance I'll swing the GPS in an ark (The Hula Dance) from side to side as I close in.

[+Beta Test]

When hiking I usew the GoTo screen (The one with the arrow). When I get close I just look for the cache. However the RINO 120 OS seems to freak out every now and then and the pointer is impotent and useless. That's when I use my map. Oh yeah I use the map when I think that I might not be sure if I could possibly get to the cache on the rout that I am going. I also look at the map when I am bored. The map also helps plan spur of the moment shortcuts.

[LogJam00]

Mine to yours and both of ours to the one that set the cache may not read exactly the same.

Huh?

[+TotemLake]

What he means to say is no matter what the unit, the readings will normally be different, even if they are the same model. Then bear in mind your estimated error may not match the estimated error the hider had when placing the cache, so you could easily be off by as much as 100 feet or more on any given day and hour, or you could be as close as mere inches. Generally speaking, if the GPS gets you within 50 feet of the target, you're doing good. The rest is up to circumstance and your ability to sleuth.

[+Boot Group]

Press the go-to button. Then pick, point to point, rather than the street (or map) selection. Once you press enter, then it will re-route you. Then, a compass should appear that will pretty much lead you in. Even if the compass goes nutty, normally follow the trail until you are close (100 feet or under), unless the cache page suggest that you will bushwack most of the way.

[+Thot]

Generally speaking, if the GPS gets you within 50 feet of the target, you're doing good.

Gosh, that's a revelation. Is there general agreement among experienced cachers that you shouldn’t expect the GPS to get you closer than 50 feet? If not, could some others give their estimates of how close they typically get?

 

Fifty feet is a large area to find a microcache well hidden among an area of jumble. It seems like that could verge on the impossible.

 

NEVER MIND, I'M GOING TO START A NEW THREAD FOR THIS QUESTION.

Edited July 2, 2004 by Thot

[+CompuCash]

My sprotrack pro takes me to within 2 feet many times - most times is is ike 12-15'

[+Kit Fox]

Using my new Meridian Gold, I start with the compass screen until I pass the point in which it says the cache should be located. Then I switch to the large data screen and set the gps down and let it average. If I hold the gps all the time, I spend too much time running in circles. By putting the gps down, I start searching likely places rather than playing with the GPS.

 

I had the same problem with a fishfinder on a boat. I could see fish on the screen but couldn't get them to bite. Once I started fishing instead of relying on electronics, I had better results.

 

The same principle works every time when I'm caching. More than once, I have found the cache while my GPS was pointing me to the wrong spot (within the margin of error).

 

Bill,

[+GeoSonar]

I have an Etrex Legend, and I'll use the map screen to get me in "the vacinity." From there, I'll switch over and concentrate on matching the coordinates versus using the map or the nav screens. Personally, I have found this to be my best method as I tend to find the cache in a matter of a few miuntes once I know the coordinates match. I know there is a degree of error in my position accuracy (and the hider's accuracy), but so far this has worked the best.

[+TEAM 360]

Using my Magellan Platinum, I use the TOPO map screen to drive to the general area, then once I am out of the car, I use the compass screen (set on "GPS course", not "magnetic") to zero in on the cache, until I get within 20' or so...then I stop looking at the screen and think "Now where would I hide it?"

Edited July 5, 2004 by TEAM 360

[+Quoddy]

In the cache area: Compass

[+Worf's Pack]

I've seen my compass point one way and distance go down walking the other. I 've upgraded and my best method is having a 9 year old using my old yeller. Working two units helps. And finding micros in the woods should be another thread.

[+Thot]

In the cache area: Compass

I've read several times here to switch to a compass when near the target. I’ve probably tried that 4 or 5 times. It never seems to give me useful results. I find the GPS pointer much more likely to point me in the correct direction. Logically the compass should work, but somehow it doesn’t for me.

[+Markwell]

When I was using the little yellow, I almost exclusively used the pseudo-compass screen - showed me distance and direction.

 

When I got the 76S, I almost always use the map. It will show me everything I had on the compass screen of the little yellow (direction and distance) and also show me my approach to the cache. If the GPS loses its directional ability (with the electronic compass off), then I can at least say "OK - I approached from over there, and while I was approaching, it was a little to the left of the path."

 

Just what I do - not saying it's RIGHT.