Make You Own Hiking Staff

August 6, 2004

A note on woodburning, different portions of the grain burn at different rates (which is why wood burners choose woods with little grain). You also need to sand even smoother than otherwise or you'll have disasterous results. Practice first on the same type of wood as results from harder/softer woods won't apply.

I've done pyrography on birch, pine, poplar and bass and although most pyrographers favorite is bass, I favor poplar.

(Harder woods burn slower and are therefore easier for the novice.)

Enjoy,

Randy

PS: Thanks El Diablo for sharing your technique!

Edited August 6, 2004 by RJFerret

3.9k · August 6, 2004

A note on woodburning, different portions of the grain burn at different rates (which is why wood burners choose woods with little grain). You also need to sand even smoother than otherwise or you'll have disasterous results. Practice first on the same type of wood as results from harder/softer woods won't apply.

I've done pyrography on birch, pine, poplar and bass and although most pyrographers favorite is bass, I favor poplar.

(Harder woods burn slower and are therefore easier for the novice.)

Enjoy,

Randy

PS: Thanks El Diablo for sharing your technique!

Personally I don't posses the skills to use a woodburning tool. I've tried several times, and as you have pointed out, it was disasterous. Thing about wood burning in order to make it look right it needs to be done in one fluid motion. If you stop and start it shows. I've seen some beautiful work done with wood burning and I'm envious.

El Diablo

2.1k · August 6, 2004

As a kid I did some wood burning with a magnifying glass - I wasn't very good - but I found that you I did not have to put the pressure into the wood and I could keep a more fluid motion with the glass and it did not slip and drag because of the grain. You set the width by the size of the focused spot.

and idea -

3.9k · January 9, 2005

Well it's been almost 6 months. Did anyone ever make their own hiking staff?

El Diablo

4.8k · January 9, 2005

Well it's been almost 6 months. Did anyone ever make their own hiking staff?

El Diablo

I haven't made one yet, but I did look at the web site for supplies and plan to. I think it will be a fun project!

This might have been answered already, so I apologize for my laziness in not re-reading the thread if it has, but how do you mount a compass in the top?

4.8k · January 9, 2005

Have you considered a Today's Cacher article on how to make one? That could be cool!

3.9k · January 9, 2005

Well it's been almost 6 months. Did anyone ever make their own hiking staff?

El Diablo

I haven't made one yet, but I did look at the web site for supplies and plan to. I think it will be a fun project!

This might have been answered already, so I apologize for my laziness in not re-reading the thread if it has, but how do you mount a compass in the top?

It's accompished by using a 20mm Forstner bit. Cost about 8.00.

As for your second question as to an article in Today's Cacher I'll be doing one in next months issue.

El Diablo

January 9, 2005

I just ran across this thread since it got bumped and had a question. My house sits on a wooded lot with a lot of hickory trees so I can probably find a hickory sapling to use right in my backyard. In your first instruction set you posted in June that that was a good time to get a green one because "the sap is running and it makes it very easy to debark". So how hard would it be to debark a green one if I cut it now? Would it be better to wait until summer?

3.9k · January 9, 2005

I just ran across this thread since it got bumped and had a question. My house sits on a wooded lot with a lot of hickory trees so I can probably find a hickory sapling to use right in my backyard. In your first instruction set you posted in June that that was a good time to get a green one because "the sap is running and it makes it very easy to debark". So how hard would it be to debark a green one if I cut it now? Would it be better to wait until summer?

Well with Hickory I'm not sure that it would matter. It's not easy to debark no matter when. Just make sure you do it as soon as you cut it. Once it dries it will be very hard to debark. Use a utility knife.

If you have any extra send them my way. :rolleyes:

El Diablo

January 9, 2005

I have made 2 mighty fine sticks.

One I took out of the closet so I have about a 6 foot wooden walking stick that is quite sturdy and it has the marks of cloths hangers on it. :-)

the other wasn't quite so elaborate. I took the broom portion off the broom handle and I have been using that for nearly 2 years.

real fancy. :-)

Glenn

Edited January 9, 2005 by *gln

January 9, 2005

I've got about 30+ staves drying in my garage rafters. I used mullberry since it grows like weeds down by the river. It's pretty tuff to find a 5' section that is straight though. They should be ready in another month.

1.6k · January 9, 2005

I've got about 30+ staves drying in my garage rafters. I used mullberry since it grows like weeds down by the river. It's pretty tuff to find a 5' section that is straight though. They should be ready in another month.

I have a bunch of mulberry trunks drying from last summer. Both with and without the bark. I was planning on making them into walking sticks this spring. Let me know how yours are drying. Made one last year that turned a combination of blonde and green with the spar varnish. Nice looking stick.

I made a cherry walking stick that is sweet. About 7 feet long and about 2 inches in diameter. Dried for a year and now its very light for its volume.

Sanded it and dremeled the knots and branches to get them to be smooth surfaces.

A coat of spar varnish, then a second. Steel wool and tack cloth. Third coat down.

Pretty shiny. Steel wool and tack cloth and 4 and 5 coats down.

Glass like finish that holds up well.

Made a little cherry one for my niece with the bark still on it. That was light sanding to get the loose bark off, then dremel the knots, etc. Put 5 coats of spar varnish on it. The dark bark came through really nice and the knots and branch points offer interesting contrast.

Used cane tips for end caps to keep the wood from being damaged.

Like the spar varnish, not expensive or difficult to find. Straight forward application technique.

January 9, 2005

I am SO going to have to get my father's help on one... He and I made one a bunch of years ago made of:

Lacewood

Paduk

Purpleheart

Hickory

Lignum Vitae (bottom tip)

Brazilian Rosewood (for the top, acquired pre-the ban on rosewood cutting)

We cut 3/4" square sticks of them, forming a 3x3 matrix with lacewood in the four corners, purpleheart on the two sides, and paduk on the other two, with hickory as the core. We then sanded the whole thing down, tapering the staff so that at the bottom of the staff, the hickory core was showing, and at the top, the lacewood was showing on the outside. We then sanded it until it was very smooth and coated it with natural oil(not stain). We then cut a small piece of Lignum Vitae (also known as Ironwood) which we screwed onto the bottom of the staff, and the rosewood we attached to the top, with a compass in one side. It looked beautiful, but I think I want to make another, despite the level of work that it was to make it. I want one!

January 10, 2005

I made one out of some what I assume is bamboo I found growing in South Carolina. (Sure looks like bamboo.) Just found a hunk that I like in the field one day...scored it and snapped it to lenght using my pocket knife. From there I've put some tape on the tip, added some logos to the top and wrapped the handle with 550 cord. It's weathering/dring prett well. It has a cool design in the bamboo where some sections grew kinda wierd. I'll post a picture here one of these days.

I'd like to make some more. My kids love 'em and they would be fun and fairly simple woodworking projects. (Since I had to get rid of most of my big tools and such in our last move.)

January 10, 2005

Anyone care to share some of their hiking stick photos? It sounds as if they are all real nice looking. I too have made two of them, one was suppose to be for a friend as a suprise but I just can't part with it. It has a moose carved on one side and a deer on the other.

I'll post a photo when I take one.

Team Teebow

January 10, 2005

I like them and would love to know how to make them. :rolleyes: Thanks in advance!

I always thought you just chop down or pick up the stick you want, whittle it, stain it, hike it.

January 11, 2005

Count me in! Made with precision and pride.

January 11, 2005

Hey El,

How does the lanyard hardare get attached? I was looking at your web site (beautiful stuff, BTW), but do not see how the lanyard gets attached. The Treeline web site has the hardware, and it looks similar to what you have (yes??).

Thanks for the time.

3.9k · January 11, 2005

Hey El,
How does the lanyard hardare get attached? I was looking at your web site (beautiful stuff, BTW), but do not see how the lanyard gets attached. The Treeline web site has the hardware, and it looks similar to what you have (yes??).

Thanks for the time.

I use a hook and latch to attach the strap. It's attached using 2 wood screws.

El Diablo

January 11, 2005

I've got about 30+ staves drying in my garage rafters. I used mullberry since it grows like weeds down by the river. It's pretty tuff to find a 5' section that is straight though. They should be ready in another month.

I have a bunch of mulberry trunks drying from last summer. Both with and without the bark. I was planning on making them into walking sticks this spring. Let me know how yours are drying. Made one last year that turned a combination of blonde and green with the spar varnish. Nice looking stick.

I made a cherry walking stick that is sweet. About 7 feet long and about 2 inches in diameter. Dried for a year and now its very light for its volume.

Sanded it and dremeled the knots and branches to get them to be smooth surfaces.

A coat of spar varnish, then a second. Steel wool and tack cloth. Third coat down.

Pretty shiny. Steel wool and tack cloth and 4 and 5 coats down.

Glass like finish that holds up well.

Made a little cherry one for my niece with the bark still on it. That was light sanding to get the loose bark off, then dremel the knots, etc. Put 5 coats of spar varnish on it. The dark bark came through really nice and the knots and branch points offer interesting contrast.

Used cane tips for end caps to keep the wood from being damaged.

Like the spar varnish, not expensive or difficult to find. Straight forward application technique.

As soon as it gets warmer outside i'll dig them out and look, My garage is not heated, unfortunately. It might be this spring before I get out and work on them. I notice you are from Omaha. I live in Kearney.

January 11, 2005

I made a cherry walking stick that is sweet. About 7 feet long and about 2 inches in diameter. Dried for a year and now its very light for its volume.

Bigred, where did you find a 7ft stick?

1.6k · January 11, 2005

I made a cherry walking stick that is sweet. About 7 feet long and about 2 inches in diameter. Dried for a year and now its very light for its volume.

Bigred, where did you find a 7ft stick?

Had to cut a tree down as it was growing too close to my cedars and turned into a long narrow cherry tree (I have one still growing, and I probably had the only two that ever grew straight... ). The base of the trunk got used for firewood and for chips for the grill. The tip got used for my niece's little hiking stick, and the 7 foot long piece below the tip is what my walking stick is made from.

January 12, 2005

Here's mine. The black on the top is electrical tape because it started spliting after I pushed my branch insignia in and it started drying.

Things I learned just muddling my way through this one.

--yes, letting it cure first is probably a good idea.

--Should have cut it off right above a ring, not below. Now I have a big cavity in the top of my staff.

--The 550 cord needs pulled even tighter. It shifts around a bit with use right now.

January 12, 2005

Very nice wolves shepherd.

Team Teebow

September 21, 2005

I would be interested in knowing how to make my own staff.

Thanks.

September 21, 2005

i had a customer come into my business a couple a months ago(he is from south texas) carring a hiking stick. it was made from the flower stalk of a yucca. it was incrediably light & strong. he said he got it from a friend who makes these in new mexico. he said i couldn't make one from the yuccas around here(southwest mo.) since they didn't flower. well, he's wrong they do flower they just hadn't flowered yet. does anyone know if there are differences in the yuccas? i'd like to make one, but i don't want to waste my time.

thanks,

tmac

1.8k · September 21, 2005

i had a customer come into my business a couple a months ago(he is from south texas) carring a hiking stick. it was made from the flower stalk of a yucca. it was incrediably light & strong. he said he got it from a friend who makes these in new mexico. he said i couldn't make one from the yuccas around here(southwest mo.) since they didn't flower. well, he's wrong they do flower they just hadn't flowered yet. does anyone know if there are differences in the yuccas? i'd like to make one, but i don't want to waste my time.

thanks,

tmac

I have seen the yucca's in both places. The yucca's in South Texas are a lot bigger than the ones I've seen in Missouri. Also, I have seen many yucca's flower in Missouri. I never thought to look at the stem to see if it would make a good hiking stick. I'm guessing there must be some diferences in the yucca's for the two regions. Not sure what though ...

3.8k · September 21, 2005

Google yucca sticks for a variety of websites; here's one. :lol:

22k · September 21, 2005

Google yucca sticks for a variety of websites; here's one.

Forget the stick, where do I get the cloak?!

September 21, 2005

I'd like instructions.

September 21, 2005

i found my hiking stick while doing a cache back in april. im not sure what kind of wood it is. its soft, i can leave a fingernail mark in it and its very strong, but beyond that i dunno. it was naturally cured in nature. i left it in the garage a few weeks and trimmed the bark off with a utility knife, it wasnt coming off any other way. well, when i was done, i really liked the texture it left on the stick, so i didnt sand it.

i also decided to try my hand at carving. and what better than a wood spirit? i dont think it looks too bad for a beginner.

anyways, its sat in the garage since. and its about time im gonna get out and do some hiking and want to take it along.

is it ok to leave it just bare as i have it? i really dont want a shiny finish, i like it looking very natural.

and does anyone know what kid of wood this is?

Edited September 21, 2005 by StangGuy96gt

3.2k · September 21, 2005

Count us in as well.

3.9k · September 21, 2005

If you read the entire thread you will find where I gave specific instructions in 2 parts. I never did print the instructions in Today's Cacher. I will try to do it for the October issue and include some photos to help out.

El Diablo

September 21, 2005

If you read the entire thread you will find where I gave specific instructions in 2 parts. I never did print the instructions in Today's Cacher. I will try to do it for the October issue and include some photos to help out.

El Diablo

In your instruction for part 1, you mentioned having a cure for a warped staff, but you never posted the fix(that I noticed). What is the fix?

T.

3.9k · September 21, 2005

If you read the entire thread you will find where I gave specific instructions in 2 parts. I never did print the instructions in Today's Cacher. I will try to do it for the October issue and include some photos to help out.

El Diablo

In your instruction for part 1, you mentioned having a cure for a warped staff, but you never posted the fix(that I noticed). What is the fix?

T.

It's kind of hard to descrobe, but I'll do my best. I personally use a set of wood steps that lead into one of my back doors. I wedge the staff under the top step and push down on the other end until it is straight. I then tie it off in place using heavy gauge coated wire. I leave it like that for 2-3 weeks or until the tension is gone.

Basically you just need to find some way of forcing the staff back straight and then leaving it like that until it straightens out. I have seen several techniques used.

El Diablo

Edited September 21, 2005 by El Diablo

September 21, 2005

If you read the entire thread you will find where I gave specific instructions in 2 parts. I never did print the instructions in Today's Cacher. I will try to do it for the October issue and include some photos to help out.

El Diablo

In your instruction for part 1, you mentioned having a cure for a warped staff, but you never posted the fix(that I noticed). What is the fix?

T.

It's kind of hard to descrobe, but I'll do my best. I personally use a set of wood steps that lead into on of by back doors. I wedge the staff under the top step and push down on the other end until it is straight. I then tie it off in place using heavy gauge coated wire. I leave it like that for 2-3 weeks or until the tension is gone.

Basically you just need to find some way of forcing the staff back straight and then leaving it like that until it straightens out. I have seen several techniques used.

El Diablo

Thanks

T.

September 22, 2005

would definitley like the hiking stick info, thanks.

October 12, 2005

Thanks El Diablo, I just ran on to this thread. I think I'm going to try it.

Arrestable

October 12, 2005

I'd like instructions.

Whoops, just noticed NOW that this thread is a year old.... Sorry :unsure:

October 12, 2005

plz add me to that list i would love to learn.

October 13, 2005

I would like to know how to make one.

October 13, 2005

I would like to know how to make one.

Read the posts in this thread. The instructions are here.

October 13, 2005

lol. Poor El Diablo... I think all these people don't notice that there's multiple pages for this thread... so they just see the bottom of the first page, and think they're adding their post there. Oh well.

October 20, 2005

Awesome... I think I will try this...

October 20, 2005

Mine's not NEARLY as gorgeous, but highly practical.

I bought a hickory hoe handle (thicker than a rake handle) at a hardware store. The bottom is tapered and the top is rounded over with a hole through it. It was already shoulder height - perfect.

I simply added a cane tip to the bottom and a loop of leather boot lace through the hole. That was it for a while.

Then I used it a few times while backpacking and added a few extras.

I wrapped a three-foot length of heavy copper electrical wire around the shaft just above the crutch tip. I can use the wire to hang a pot over a fire, or for other emergency uses.

I drilled a hole halfway through the staff just above the wire wrap, and glued in a short piece of 1/4" dowel so that it sticks out of the staff at a right angle. It sticks out 1.5" and served as a way to push/pull anything I can't reach myself.

I re-varnish it as needed, but the scars and dents it has acquired are marks of adventures past. Kinda nice, actually.

Beautiful work, El Diablo. I might try that logo/name addition, and the compass idea is great, too!

1.2k · October 20, 2005

I would like to know how to make one.

same here instructions please

October 20, 2005

Here are the original instructions, posted by El Diablo, that I saved in a word file:

Making your own Hiking Staff

Part I

Keep in mind that this could be a long process, especially if you start with green wood. So lets start with the wood selection first.

You need to decide what type of wood you want to use. Hardwoods work best such as Hickory, Poplar, Cherry and Aspen. Other hardwoods such as Oak and Maple are beautiful, but too heavy to lug around. However if you just want to make a display staff these will work well. Do not use Pine. The sap will seep out forever.

Where do you find the wood to start with? You want to look for a sapling, not a branch. Most branches are usually too crooked. You can either find one in the woods that has already died and cured, or you can cut a green one yourself. The best place to find a green one is where lots are being cleared for construction. You will often see huge piles of trees where the dozers have pushed them up into a pile.

This is the perfect time of the year to get a green one. The sap is running and it makes it very easy to debark...like peeling a banana. If you get one that is already dead, debarking can be a pain. I use a large utility knife to cut it off.

Once you find your staff you will need to decide the length and diameter. Keep in mind that when you debark it and cure it, it will be slightly smaller. Also cut it at least 6 inches longer than you need to compensate for splitting that normally occurs at the top or the bottom of the staff as it cures. Also if you use a dead one you may find that when you debark it that there are splits that are hidden by the bark...go get another one. You might want to gather up several just to hedge your bets when something goes wrong.

As soon as you select your staff, debark it. If it's green you will need to give it about 6 weeks to cure. While curing lay the staff flat and turn daily to help prevent warping. Select a location that is dry and sheltered from the weather to cure. A garage or shed will work great. If it warps don't panic! I have a cure for that.

Part II

These are the tools you are going to need.

1. Sandpaper. Fine and Coarse.

2. A sander unless you want to spend a lot of time doing it by hand.

3. A roll of Masking tape.

4. A Utility Knife.

5. An Electric or Battery Operated Engraver.

6. A variable speed Moto Tool.

7. A small wood carving bit for the Moto Tool.

8. A small can of wood stain, your choice of color.

9. A small can of polyurethane. I use a clear gloss.

10. 1 inch foam brushes. You’ll probably use 3 of them.

11. Acrylic paint. You can use enamel, but I find Acrylic better. You will need the colors of the logo, and whatever color you are going to do your name in.

12. A small artist brush and brush cleaner.

13. the most important of all...a lot of patience!

By now you should have found the staff you wish to work with. After it has been debarked and cured, you need to sand it down to a smooth finish. I accomplish this by sanding first with a coarse grit paper followed by a fine grit to make it smooth. I use a Black & Decker Mouse sander. If you choose to do it by hand you have a lot of work cut out for yourself.

After it is sanded it’s time to put on the Geocaching logo and the name you want on your staff. I used to use a plastic template for the logo that I made. Then I realized that Geocaching.com provided the perfect template for free. Go to Geo Logo and choose the logo you want to use and print it out. You may have to scale down the size to make it fit on the staff. I use the black & white logo.

After you have printed it out, use a utility knife and cut the logo out. Leave a 1/4 inch border around it. Now take and position on the staff where you want it and tape it into place. Now use your engraver to go over the outline of the logo. Remove the paper logo and tape and you should have a perfect outline of the Geocaching logo.

Depending upon the type of wood you chose to work with, either a soft or a very hard wood will decide the tools you need. If you have a soft wood (you can test this by pressing your thumbnail into the wood. If it leaves a dent, it is soft.) You can finish out your carving by using the engraver. Go over the outline several times until you reach the depth that pleases you. If it is a hard wood you will need the Moto Tool. I mentioned above to use a variable speed Moto Tool. The fixed speed Moto Tool is too fast to control. Unless you are better than I am. In which case, knock yourself out. Start off at a slow speed and gradually carve the outline of the logo. This is a critical step, and is where all can go wrong. The wood bit on the Moto Tool will try to follow the wood grain and if you are not careful you will destroy your staff. The same goes for the Engraver. Use extreme patience during this process.

After you have the Logo done it’s time to do your name. Print your name out on paper using the font you want and the size you desire. I use bold print with a size 72 font. Use center justification and type the letters so they run down the page, not side by side. After you have printed it out, follow the same procedures as you did for the logo.

I use small hooks that I screw into the top and bottom of the staff. I then hang the staff from the rafters of my shop on string to begin the staining process. Use the foam brush and stain the staff. Let the stain set for 15 minutes and wipe the entire staff with a paper towel. Repeat this process until you reach the shade desired. You will find the bottom hook useful for turning the staff while doing this.

After the stain has dried, it’s time to paint the staff. When the paint has dried, put you first coat of poly on. The poly will typically take about 2 hours to dry. You will notice that the staff feels gritty after the first coat. Use your fine sand paper to lightly sand it smooth (By hand. Not with a sander!) . Then repeat the poly process at least 3 times.

All you need now is a wrist strap and a rubber tip. You can find those here Treeline USA, who also the sell unfinished hiking staffs if you haven’t found you own yet.

November 2, 2005

I enjoy building and making useful things. Please share your walking stick proceedure with me. Thnaks

November 25, 2005

http://www.hikingupward.com/hiking_sticks.shtml

A little of topic ,these people are sticking hiking sticks in the ground on hiking trails for people to find and keep.they give u the lat/log for where the hiking sticks are located.

1.2k · November 25, 2005

http://www.hikingupward.com/hiking_sticks.shtml
A little of topic ,these people are sticking hiking sticks in the ground on hiking trails for people to find and keep.they give u the lat/log for where the hiking sticks are located.

All the planted (hidden) hiking sticks have been found...new one out

spring 2006, per the website.

Ed

Edited November 25, 2005 by The Badge & the Butterfly

Make You Own Hiking Staff

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