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Looking for a bike..suggestions?


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Since one of the benefits of Geocaching is the exercise, I find it counter-productive to drive to all the cache sites in my area that are too far to walk.

 

Knowing nothing about bikes, I am looking for a bike that will ride mostly on paved bike trails, but does have the ability to go offroad if necessary. And doesn't go over the $1000 mark.

 

Anyone suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Although I've owned several bikes and have ridden bikes for most of my life, I'm not an expert on bikes. Perhaps a trip to your local bike vendor will produce the results you seek.

 

Or you could just wait until Woodsters Outdoors gets to this post, he's a self-professed expert on everything -- and he's always got advice to give. icon_wink.gif

 

*****

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Hey yes excellant idea !!

 

1

I would suggest (from first and second-hand experience) that you would get a good quality bike for under 1000$ at a bike shop, and no other multi-purpose stores. Bike shops have good bikes for good prices, and like most things, you get what you pay for.

 

2

Talk to a trusted friend who may know about bikes, and have that person come along with you at the bike shop, and know how to test it, or both of you go and test a bike and feel it, like you would a car.

 

3

As far as a specific bike type, well I don't know them by name, only by design, and it looks like you need a hybrid between road bike and offroad or mountain bike...no too heavy and tires not too thin nor too thick either.

 

4

There are also books and magazines and internet sites out there that may have information that can help you.

 

Have fun!

 

______________________________________________ Kanto

It is entirely up to you if a thing leads to something useful or not.

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I had a Mongoose that I liked enough to rubuild after I wore out the bearings the first time around. Naturally it was stolen right after that.

 

Now I've got a Trek and like it too. Stay away from a racing bike. The seat will give you a wedgie (or replace the seat) and the handlebars are rather lower than someone who likes biking but not professionaly might like.

 

Don't like Huffy, broke mine. Don't like regualer 10 speeds, broke mine in half on a jump. Don't like french junk, broke it too.

 

Way back when I was looking I wanted "Mid Grade" components. The variouse components make the bike or make it junk. Ask around to see what's now good or junk. It changes over time and my bike is just too dadgum old to compare to now.

 

You should do very well on a bike for your thousand bucks.

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Hey Donbadabon. I am an accomplished cyclist, formerly competitive, have worked in the cycling industry extensively, and i have made about a dozen bicycle frames myself. that said, there is a bike on the market called the Surly Cross Check. it's a decent Tig welded steel frame, with a decent selection of components on it. it can accomodate racks and fenders if you want them. it's quite comfortable, and can be ridden very well on-road and decently off-road. i'd stick to fire roads and somewhat groomed trails, as it wasn't really intended for hard-core mountain biking. i think it retails for 850. I have 0 affiliation with Surly, other than being a fan of their product.

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I'll wholeheartedly endorse the advice of going to a dedicated bike shop. You need help -- lots of help -- my friend, before you plunk down a grand. Asking what kind of bike you need is like asking what kind of car you need. The question is too broad and too general.

 

I've ridden on and off seriously for more than 20 years, own three bikes now. If you're riding mostly road, light trails, you don't need to bog yourself down with the weight and complications of full suspension.

 

I prefer to ride road bikes -- the classic, hunched over "10-speed" type bike. The ride is more efficient and I find the position to be far more comfortable over time. The upright sitting position of most hybrid bikes feels right in the bike store parking lot, but over time it's a pain in the a**. People riding more technical stuff off road are out of the saddle a lot anyway.

 

BTW, with well built wheels and the right tires, I've ridden my road bike over some pretty hair raising dirt tracks, then sailed off when I got back to pavement a few miles down the road. There's even a type of racing called cyclocross that puts people atop lightweight racing-type bikes and points them over fences, fields, swamps and the like.

 

Look around, read a little, talk to some knowledgeable folks and ride before you buy. You're onto a great combination.

 

I'm combining cycling and 'caching, too,

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I use an old Trek 820 that I bought used for $100. A friend of mine (and bike mechanic) helped me upgrade all the components for about another $200.

 

The bike is old, durable, and not likely to be stolen because of it's appearance. I use Continental "Goliath" semi-slick tires that are basically road tires with knobby sides. It rides quietly on the streets and still has a little bite for off-trail.

 

I have put over 10,000 miles on the bike in about 3 years. (touring eastern U.S. and a large part of Australia)

 

Also, I use "slime" in the inner tubes. I have not had a flat tire in 10,000 miles. (on my third set of tires, though)

 

Since geocaching usually requires leaving the bike out of sight, or at a trail head for an unknown period of time, I highly reccommend buying a bike that is not attractive to thieves. Bicycles are very easy to steal. No reason to tempt someone.

 

==============="If it feels good...do it"================

 

**(the other 9 out of 10 voices in my head say: "Don't do it.")**

 

.

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I own a Giant Cypress, its a hybrid bike that is a cross between a mountain bike and a road bike, and cost me $300.00 at my local bike shop. I've gone on bike trails and mild offroad with it, and am very happy with the bike

 

I'm not Lost, my GPS says I'm right here....no over here......no over here.

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quote:
Originally posted by Huntnlady:

Find one at a geocache! Read my http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.aspx?ID=62550&log=y&decrypt= of June 28.


Aha! That's what happened!

Here's my log from today:

 

August 7 by Team GPSaxophone (133 found)

My daughter and I finally made it back to get our bikes, but they have been stolen! I even took the brakes off of hers and cable-locked mine to be sure they would still be there. I guess some people have no respect for private property.

 

Took sun from sky, left world in eternal darkness bandbass.gif

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Posted by sept1c_tank:

quote:
Huntnlady, shouldn't you be huntn now?

 

Rifle season opens Saturday, I cleaned my rifle today and received a rifle hanger for my backpack from Cabelas, to hang it on while packing the venison out. High anxiety for Sat. am- best day of the year! icon_biggrin.gif

 

_______________________________

Ever consider what our dogs must think of us? I mean, here we come back from a grocery store with the most amazing haul -- chicken, pork, half a cow. They must think we're the greatest hunters on earth!

 

http://www.geocities.com/cacheinon

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I'm no bike expert, but I agree with going the bike shop route. Forget those cheap things at the discount stores! I had a Trek once (I think 820, it was 8 something and not an 810) that I really liked and was under $250 when I bought it new. It was a lower end mountain bike. Good enough for basic dirt and gravel trails and for hopping over curbs, but not enough to do serious off road with. I'm in the market again for a bike too, so I'll keep watching this thread. I bet I end up getting whatever is a good value at the local bike shop soon.

 

pokeanim3.gif

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Huntnlady...

"Rifle season opens Saturday, I cleaned my rifle today and received a rifle hanger for my backpack from Cabelas, to hang it on while packing the venison out. High anxiety for Sat. am- best day of the year!"

 

Deer season opening in August? What state are you from?

 

The fawns still have milk dripping from their mouths in most states!

 

************************************************************

"Sometimes you gotta look like an *** to get that cache!"...huntforit

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Which bike? I don't recommend a stationary bike....But seriously, I have a Specialized 18 speed mountain bike and love it.

 

************************************************************

"Sometimes you gotta look like an *** to get that cache!"...huntforit

************************************************************

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Want a good bike that's made in America?? Cannondale. Hand made in Pennsylvania. I have three of them and have beat the living daylighs out of each and they have yet to fail me. They have all kids of different setups for different riding styles. If you go to their website you can find a dealer close to you.

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don't trust anything anyone says about brands. (almost) every brand makes winners and losers.

 

go to a bike shop. at least one. more if you can manage.

 

ride every bike in your price range.

 

tell the salesperson how much and what knd of riding you intend to do. do not lie or exaggerate. include information about how much gear you habitually carry.

 

ask questions about durability and ease of replacement parts. be a pain and ask about fit. these guys make their real money off of service, so they want you to be happy and come back.

 

buy the bike that fits you the best for the price. do not fall for industry hype, or what other people think is cool. if the bike feels right, it is. do not judge a bike by its seat. ever. a seat is easily and cheaply replaced.

 

my first bike as a grownup was a pretty good bike, but my second made me feel lithe and strong and graceful. my third bike made me want to ride forever and never get off of it. my newest bike is a better bike than i am a rider, and it can do anything i have the guts to ask it to do. it is the same brand as the second. you will notice that i'm not telling you what the brands are. the important thing is how it feels to you, and every body is a little different.

 

it doesn't matter if you get to camp at one or at six. dinner is still at six.

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quote:
Originally posted by sept1c_tank:

...The bike is old, durable, and not likely to be stolen because of it's appearance....Also, I use "slime" in the inner tubes. _I have not had a flat tire in 10,000 miles...


 

You have all the luck! I built two ugly bikes out of parts of other bikes and both were stolen! That and I use slime and kevlar and still get flats.

 

Back on the thread... I found a Rock Hopper (Specialized) at a garage sale with two flats. Offered 10 and put $10 in and my daughter has a great bike. Slimed the tires and already had to repair a flat anyway.

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Oh my ghod!!! $890 for a bike? Get a used dirt motorcycle for that money!

 

For that price, I could own 17 of my bike (KMart on sale for $50, normally $120ish).

 

If you aren't a biker, but a geocacher, save your pennies (or in this case, C-notes) and get the least expensive option.

 

If you find you need more, you can always splurge later. But trying to get $840 back out of a bike won't happen. (That would require 168 hours of use to beat $5/hr entertainment costs!!!)

 

Just my thoughts,

 

Randy

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I have an LL Bean Evolution cross bike. At the time I purchased it, it had a lot of great features for a bike in its price range ($299). It's best on the road, but I've taken it off trail on ocassion, with good results. Even some pretty rough terrain. I'm not even sure if they still make this bike, but if they do, I suggest checking it out.

 

My wife has a Trek cross bike. It seems to be very well made for its $175 price.

 

EDIT: Just checked the LL Bean website and the Evolution is no longer available. Their bikes are now made by Schwinn. I don't mean to be prejudiced (heck, I don't know a lot about bikes), but Schwinn bikes evoke memories of my 3 speed when I was a kid. Who knows....maybe they're good these days.

 

[This message was edited by BrianSnat on August 07, 2003 at 07:55 PM.]

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Go to a reputable bike shop, they will steer you in the right direction. tell them what you use it for. And don't worry too much when one of these guys in here tells you that he spends more than that for tires for his bike. He probably fills them up with his own special brand of balloon juice.

 

Bender

 

Searching, for the lost Xanadu

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Several years ago I bought my first bike since college. I think about the best thing I did was to go to a *real* bike shop and talk to a professional. So many people have already said it but it is worth repeat yet again ... if you do nothing else go to a good local bike shop and spend plenty of time riding each option. The pros will size you up correctly, make reasoned suggestions based upon how you ride, and will be there to service your bike and keep it tuned when it is needed.

 

I ended up going with a hybrid, a Trek 7300. I use it primarily for weekend end riding with the kids, mostly on pavement, occasionally off pavement. I have been very pleased with it.

 

-=-=-=-=-=-

GPS_Brian

=-=-=-=-=-=

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quote:
For that price, I could own 17 of my bike (KMart on sale for $50, normally $120ish).


 

KMart bikes will not last you long, they are comparable to used cars disguised as new cars...they are meant for around the block use and to the corner store, nothing more. They are flimsy and not at all durable, and if you are to go geocaching (which will take you many kilometres), Kmart bikes will break down and then you'll have to learn how to fix it quickly.

 

850 for a bike? Some bikes go up to 5000 dollars, and probably more, but in those times, the pay off is either winning races, or just having a nice bike, or using it for what's its worth.

 

______________________________________________ Kanto

It is entirely up to you if a thing leads to something useful or not.

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About 2 years ago, I go a Haro mountain bike ICS 3.0. The price was right (about $500). Someone mentioned earlier in this thread that the components on the bike make or break it and this is the absolute truth. I'd also recommend an alloy frame instead of steel to reduce the weight of the bike. On long rides, you'll appreciate it.

 

82972_1100.jpg

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Probably getting too technical here, but it's frustrating to see people who are ignorant dispensing advice, so here goes.

 

WARNING: you can ignore the rest of this message if you just 1. visit reliable bike shops 2. listen to advice 3. ride before buying 4. buy what you like.

 

Now, on to the b.s. repellant: ignore brand recommendations. All manufacturers put together bikes with components from a couple manufacturers.

 

Good fit and feel is paramount.

 

"Buy alloy, not steel" Sheesh! This is rot. Steel bikes out of the Kmart range are made of alloy steel. The feel of a good steel bike is lively and satisfying. Aluminum, which is light, also is prone to catastrophic failure when repeatedly stressed (flexed). Thus, aluminum frames are built not to flex. They are stiff, and experienced riders often describe the ride as punishing. Cannondale uses large diameter tubes because increasing tube diameter is an effective way to increase rigidity. You will note that many, if not most, mountain bikes are now fabricated of aluminum. These bikes also feature suspension systems that mitigate the hard ride.

 

I own a mail order mountain bike that's a beater. A hand-built steel bike with Campagnolo parts that Tom Ritchey built, and a Litespeed Classic hung with Shimano parts.

 

The Litespeed is the only non-steel bike. Titanium is stiff, but it also has the inclination to dampen high-frequency vibration, so it's much less fatiguing to use. Thus, it's my go-to bike these days. It's also out of your budget.

 

As for cost, if you spend 10 hours a week on a bike, the "fun per hour" quotient for a $1000 bike comes to less than $2 an hour for the first year. You'll note that people talk about losing bikes to theft, but no one has said they just wore a bike out. A bike will give you sound daily service with minimal maintenance for 20 years or more, making the "hourly" calculation ridiculously small.

 

I love the forums, but I'm increasingly inclined to take the advice herein with a healthy measure of salt. Just go for it, and prepare to have some fun.

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i have to echo Mr. Big's sentiments here. Aluminum frames are appropriate for some riders. steel is a preferred by others. it's impossible to apply the blanket statment "aluminum is better" to everyone. weight? some of the steel frames i have made are as light as high end aluminum frames.

I know of a very good service-oriented shop in your area called Spokes, Etc. it's been a long time since i was in there, but several years ago if you bought a bike from them, the labor to adjust/ fix your bike was free forever. and the bikes didn't cost more because of it. they carried a good selection, too.

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Ahhh, bicycles! A topic I love to talk about. I agree with most of what has already been said except for a couple little niggles.

 

1. Buying a fifty dollar bike at K-Mart is akin to flushing the money down the toilet. I could go into the technical details but I don't want to make this very long. I'll just say that the phrase: "K-Mart fall apart" applies in spades.

 

2. Componants are what matter. Yes and no. The most important componants in a quality bike are: "Frame", "Wheelset" (includes hubs), "Bottom Bracket", and to a lesser extent the "Headset". Most everybody else will tell you the shifters, derailleurs, crankset, etc. are the most important because those are the componants that everybody sees. But the componants that house bearings are vitally important to a reliable and safe bicycle. And don't forget that everything rides on the wheels and the wheels spin around the hubs. Manufacturers cut costs on the most important parts because they are less visable to the consumer. But for a grand you'll be able to get a high quality bike all around so I wouldn't worry. I'm thinking about getting a new bike too and am really looking hard at the Cannondale T800

 

"Wise men talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something."

-- Plato

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I agree with most of the responses about K-Mart bikes. They might do the job, and cheaply, but you really do get what you pay for. Your typical k-mart bike is going to be made of cheaper materials and components. I had "k-mart" bikes when I was a kid, and that was fine because I didn't know better...and they lasted for years. But now that I'm older and making my own purchases, I realize something like that wouldn't suit me now. I just wouldn't be happy riding it due to extra weight, lack of comfort, and little/no tech assistance if I break something.

 

When I started into mountain biking about 8 years ago. I purchased a lower end Schwinn Moab for about $400. It worked great for a couple of years...I then upgraded to a Schwinn S-20 which had full suspension and such, top end components for about $1100. There's kind of a funny story behind that purchase, but I won't go off topic and bore you with it. icon_biggrin.gif I held on to the older Moab and put semi-slick tires on it (like was mentioned before) and it was great for just what you're planning on doing...more on road/light trail use. The S-20 was used for more agressive off roading and competing. I eventually sold both, and was without a bike of any sort for a couple of years. About 6 months ago, I decided to purchase another. I wanted to get another Schwinn, simply due to brand loyalty. But I soon discovered for what I wanted their prices were higher, and some of their bikes are being sold as "K-mart" bikes. Same frames and stuff that you would find in the local bike shop, just with super generic components (Brakes, tires, drivetrain, etc.) and that kind of bothered me. So I went into the local bike shop and started asking questions and explaining how I wanted to use the bike. I left with a Giant Iguana for about $500. Front suspension, middle to upper class components. All in all it's been a great bike. I haven't ridden it as much as I'd like, but it's great on road (although I'd like to get a set of semi-slick tires for road riding, as the stock tires are rather aggressive and have a high rolling resistance). Off road it's great too, but I've only had it really off road twice. The only gripe I had is on road the seat gets really uncomfortable...but that's not what it's designed for, and I corrected that by buying a pair of padded cycling shorts.

 

So in a super long winded way, I guess what I'm saying is stay open. Don't close the door on some bikes just because of other's opinions. Where as most of my opinion doesn't really apply since I think that what I'm looking for in a bike is more off-road than what you want. Either way, visit your local bike shop (or several), take a ride on a few different makes/models, and then make your decision. Also, as in many things, with bikes you really do get what you pay for. You will be much happier in the long run with a better bike. I know several friends who owned "k-mart" bikes and never rode them. Once they got something a little better, they're glued to their bike now.

 

Mr. 0

 

"Remember that nature and the elements are neither your friend or your enemy - they are actually disinterested."

 

Department of the Army Field Manual FM 21-76 "Survival" Oct. 1970

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Sams club has a made in China Mongoose for about $130, buy it, try it, see if you enjoy it. If not, you don't have a $1000 ornament in the garage collecting dust, if you do like it, you've saved $800 +, and if you decide you enjoy cycling and want to upgrade, sell it in the classifieds, bet you get $100 for it in a few months.

 

just because you're paranoid, it doesn't mean they're not out to get you

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quote:
Originally posted by BrianSnat:

I have an LL Bean Evolution cross bike. At the time I purchased it, it had a lot of great features for a bike in its price range ($299). It's best on the road, but I've taken it off trail on ocassion, with good results. Even some pretty rough terrain. I'm not even sure if they still make this bike, but if they do, I suggest checking it out.

 

My wife has a Trek cross bike. It seems to be very well made for its $175 price.

 

EDIT: Just checked the LL Bean website and the Evolution is no longer available. Their bikes are now made by Schwinn. I don't mean to be prejudiced (heck, I don't know a lot about bikes), but Schwinn bikes evoke memories of my 3 speed when I was a kid. Who knows....maybe they're good these days.

 

[This message was edited by BrianSnat on August 07, 2003 at 07:55 PM.]


 

a cross bike for that kind of money?!? they can't really be cross bikes. i started racing cross last year and i can't find a good used cross bike for that kind of money. i'm still using my old xc hardtail.

 

and schwinn makes some very fine bikes, same as mongoose makes some real losers.

 

oh, wait. i got all excited when you said "cross". it seems from context they're hybrids. cross bikes are like road bikes, with a heavier frame and a wider fork to accomodate slightly wider tires. they're for cyclocross, a sport with all the fun of cross-country running WHILE CARRYING A BICYCLE! it's really demented, and now that i do it, i need yet another expensive bike.

 

sorry. my bad. it's been a long weekend.

 

it doesn't matter if you get to camp at one or at six. dinner is still at six.

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I got my trusty 1850 schwinn with the Iron spoked wheels.

 

No really I used to road bike, and these were not what was needed for going off pavement...

 

A Beta Totpado will crumple in seconds.

 

My custom Peugeot was a GRAT off road bike, thin tires and all, I rode it all over Alaska for three years. FIRST DAY in california, it was Stolen....

 

geocan.jpg

 

Trash-out, EVERYtime

 

~~

 

Geo-cach-er, n. generally a highy technically competent person with lots of free time. (see also- "Unemployed", Computer administrator, aircraft technician- defense worker- dot-com executive- systems administrator, et.al)

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Donbadabon; Consider the recumbent bike. For the paved bike trail, it can't be beat. No wedgies, sore shoulders, neck, numb hands or sore back. You can see a LOT more and it is so much fun. Some manufacturers are making off-road versions too. They're pricey, but buying used can save you a ton. I bought mine for $500; that was 2,500 miles ago and I ride strictly crushed limestone trails. Give it a try.

 

Ride bent.

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Good call on wanting to ride a bike for these caches. After you find the right bike, you should also consider gear.

 

A Camelback backpack is great for riding, because you will need water. They can hold over 70 ounces of water, and keep it cold. One that can hold at least a toolkit, a spare tube and a pump is preferred. I hold a toolkit, patch kit, spare tubes, first aid kit, a sweater (in SF, its cold and hot at the same time) and pens for signing logs. I also hold a pump, a U-Lock and a bottle cage for cold drinks on my bike. The lock is helpful for locking up your bike when you get to a trailhead that doesn't allow bikes, or when you just want to stop for a snack.

 

A bike mount for your GPS will be more convenient than taking it out when you think you're close.

 

I use TOPO! software to help determine trails and fire roads which may be close to caches (Paths/Trails are downloable). I've also downloaded all local train stations into my GPS from TOPO! as waypoints.

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