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Magnetic strip caches


geotracters

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1 hour ago, geotracters said:

I've seen a few magnetic strip caches before and just wanted to know, how do I make my own? Also, any links to the supplies so I know what to get?

Most of the ones I've seen have had three components:

  1. The front is a sign or something that looks like a sign. Adhesive letters and numbers (the kind used for mailboxes) with the cache's GC code create something recognizable to geocachers, but generically official looking to everyone else.
  2. A magnetic sheet attached to the back of the sign, to hold the cache to a steel surface.
  3. A plastic bag with a log sheet (which satisfies requirement in the guidelines for a container that holds the log). It seems to work better if the bag is smaller than the sign, and the magnetic sheet has a recess in the middle for the bag.

 

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13 minutes ago, niraD said:

Most of the ones I've seen have had three components:

  1. The front is a sign or something that looks like a sign. Adhesive letters and numbers (the kind used for mailboxes) with the cache's GC code create something recognizable to geocachers, but generically official looking to everyone else.
  2. A magnetic sheet attached to the back of the sign, to hold the cache to a steel surface.
  3. A plastic bag with a log sheet (which satisfies requirement in the guidelines for a container that holds the log). It seems to work better if the bag is smaller than the sign, and the magnetic sheet has a recess in the middle for the bag.

 

I meant the ones that have the log sheet glued (or taped, I don't know) to the back of the magnetic sheet, but this should work.

Thanks!

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40 minutes ago, geotracters said:

I meant the ones that have the log sheet glued (or taped, I don't know) to the back of the magnetic sheet, but this should work.

Thanks!

 

A reviewer has said in these forums, that a "log" glued to a magnetic strip isn't a geocache.

A plastic baggie glued to the back, representing a container for the log is.  Sorta...

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1 hour ago, geotracters said:

I meant the ones that have the log sheet glued (or taped, I don't know) to the back of the magnetic sheet, but this should work.

 

In the guidelines  this type of cache is not allowed for two reasons. At least you must find a way how to replace the logbook.

 

For all physical caches, there must be a logbook for geocachers to record their visit. The logbook must be

  • Physical
  • Replaceable
  • Easy to sign
  • Enclosed within a container
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In the guidelines  this type of cache is not allowed 

 

For all physical caches, there must be a logbook for geocachers to record their visit. The logbook must be

  • Physical
  • Replaceable
  • Easy to sign
  • Enclosed within a container

-----------------------------------------------

> It's not a container. 

 

Edited by L0ne.R
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38 minutes ago, geotracters said:

Was watching this video for ideas for future caches and noticed a similar cache at 1:10 in the video, even though its not magnetic, am I allowed to hide something like this?

You'll see geocache concepts that violate the guidelines in person, on YouTube, and elsewhere online. In this case, the guidelines specify that "The container must hold the logbook" and "The logbook must be [...] Enclosed within a container". An object can be a container, or it can be a log, but it cannot be both.

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12 hours ago, geotracters said:

I've seen a few magnetic strip caches before and just wanted to know, how do I make my own? Also, any links to the supplies so I know what to get?


As niraD said about materials, outdoor lettering is used.  And thick, strong outdoor sign magnets.  I had a car sign that I cut up for all my cache magnet ideas.  
 

I never made a cache as described, but found one once on a NASCAR race car that was on display at a gas station, and it was a fun find!  It was the paper glued to the back of the magnet kind.  If I did try something, it might be a “number sign” stage of a puzzle or Multi.  Then there’s no log behind it to maintain.

 

Edited by kunarion
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11 hours ago, niraD said:

You'll see geocache concepts that violate the guidelines in person, on YouTube, and elsewhere online.

 

Many of the caches that violate guidelines seem to be the ones with more FPs than the ones that abide by them too. 

Odd (to us) that so many think paper strips alone, a post in the ground, or disassembling private property for a cache is okay...

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1 hour ago, cerberus1 said:

Many of the caches that violate guidelines seem to be the ones with more FPs than the ones that abide by them too. 

Odd (to us) that so many think paper strips alone, a post in the ground, or disassembling private property for a cache is okay...

:sad:

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On 4/27/2022 at 10:09 AM, cerberus1 said:

 

Many of the caches that violate guidelines seem to be the ones with more FPs than the ones that abide by them too. 

Odd (to us) that so many think paper strips alone, a post in the ground, or disassembling private property for a cache is okay...

The rules are to protect the game. Destruction of property in search of a cache is the main reason geocaching gets banned from parks and other spaces.

I discourage hides that require you to take things apart, in particular Electrical boxes and power conduits. Electricity is one of those things that, if it doesn't kill you, can scar you permanently and leave you partially non-functioning. If you are going to make a hide look like a piece of equipment then you need to mark it in such a way that geocachers will understand that's the cache. Sure your breaker panel cache may be a dead box but when that cacher is looking for another cache near power equipment they may try opening a real, live cabinet.

Ditto for hiding a box in a wall block. Now you have people thinking they need to take walls apart to find the caches, that's going to piss off property owners and get the game banned.

A subtle G+ symbol or use the GC# to mark the hide.

Now we didn't see the hints or descriptions of these hides, maybe they are clear enough that you know what you have to do when you get GZ.

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1 hour ago, Beaglescout10 said:

The rules are to protect the game. Destruction of property in search of a cache is the main reason geocaching gets banned from parks and other spaces.

I discourage hides that require you to take things apart, in particular Electrical boxes and power conduits. Electricity is one of those things that, if it doesn't kill you, can scar you permanently and leave you partially non-functioning. If you are going to make a hide look like a piece of equipment then you need to mark it in such a way that geocachers will understand that's the cache. Sure your breaker panel cache may be a dead box but when that cacher is looking for another cache near power equipment they may try opening a real, live cabinet.

Ditto for hiding a box in a wall block. Now you have people thinking they need to take walls apart to find the caches, that's going to piss off property owners and get the game banned.

A subtle G+ symbol or use the GC# to mark the hide.

Now we didn't see the hints or descriptions of these hides, maybe they are clear enough that you know what you have to do when you get GZ.

 

When you disguise a cache to look like something else, it kinda blows your purpose to put a "G+" symbol or GC number on it.

Why bother with elaborate camouflage when you're going to plainly mark it to make it obvious?

And, that concept doesn't work because if YOUR phony-outlet cache is plainly marked, players will STILL consider all other power panels and sprinkler-heads to be fair game for disassembly.

 

How about instead of that, people just use common sense and consider dangerous things like utility infrastructure off-limits for hiding!!!!!! Rocket Science! Put it in the guidelines! Reject the hide!

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5 hours ago, TeamRabbitRun said:

sprinkler-heads to be fair game for disassembly

I pulled one apart once. It wasn't the cache :wacko:. It took me ages to put it back together :bad: because of a tricky spring. If the water had come on, I would have dropped it and run, but fortunately it didn't, and I was able to fix the sprinkler. The next person apparently didn't have the same luck with it as I did, as they wrote they couldn't put it back together. The CO then made a note that the cache is NOT a sprinkler.

I never found that cache, wherever it is. That's a problem; placing hard to find caches in places where there are possibilities (such as sprinklers) to destroy. I think that showed lack of foresight of the CO in not looking around and thinking like someone searching.

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12 hours ago, Darwin473 said:

Totally off-topic, I had a quiet giggle at how small the world is. @Goldenwattle - you recently dropped off a Travel Slug GeoCoin that I'd moved back in March '21. The gallery has a photo of the coin with one of our cats. I dropped it in the NT, JACS Team moved it to QLD, Aussie Liahona moved it and then you took it down to NSW. B)

Yes those TBs can get about. At the meet, I was handed several to move on. I had just managed to get rid of a heap, and then I was given a new lot. Any I still have when I arrive home in Canberra, I will put in my TB hotel.

What I find strange, is how a short distance between Broadbeach (Meet the locals) to Southport, becomes 80kms.

 

One TB I have found three times, in different places in two countries. I found it in Seattle and brought it to Canberra. Since then I have found it in two different towns. It also spent a long time in my TB Hotel. People are not keen on bigger TBs.

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On 4/29/2022 at 12:44 PM, TeamRabbitRun said:

... if YOUR phony-outlet cache is plainly marked, players will STILL consider all other power panels and sprinkler-heads to be fair game for disassembly.

How about instead of that, people just use common sense and consider dangerous things like utility infrastructure off-limits for hiding!!!!!! Rocket Science! Put it in the guidelines! Reject the hide!

 

Yep.   Years ago we lost an area to caching because a brand new veteran's memorial was trashed for a cache.

Light panel screws missing (found them in-between pavers), flagpole loosened/tilted, and even ribbons in potted flowers removed.

I found it under the first small arborvitae as you enter...

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On 4/29/2022 at 12:44 PM, TeamRabbitRun said:

When you disguise a cache to look like something else, it kinda blows your purpose to put a "G+" symbol or GC number on it.

That depends on who you're trying to hide it from. When the typical magnetic strip cache is covered with adhesive labels that spell out the GC code, it works perfectly as camouflage from non-geocachers.

 

The goal of camouflage isn't always to make it hard for geocachers to find.

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14 hours ago, niraD said:

That depends on who you're trying to hide it from. When the typical magnetic strip cache is covered with adhesive labels that spell out the GC code, it works perfectly as camouflage from non-geocachers.

 

The goal of camouflage isn't always to make it hard for geocachers to find.

 

Yes, of course you're right; sometimes you're hiding more from muggles than from US, but my point still stands. There's usually still an element of trying to make OUR hunt above a D-1.

 

I've found a bunch of mag strip caches, and the only one that was obviously marked was the one that took me the longest. Was on a utility box, with the GC code displayed in mailbox stickers like it belonged there. More than ten minutes, including some time leaning right ON the letters. Only saw it as I was walking away and glanced back. But, that probably says more about me than it does about the cache.

 

 

Edited by TeamRabbitRun
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5 minutes ago, TeamRabbitRun said:

Yes, of course you're right; sometimes you're hiding more from muggles than from US, but my point still stands. There's usually still an element of trying to make OUR hunt above a D-1.

I think the real difficulty with hiding geocaches from geocachers is that many locations cannot withstand the repeated intense searches that result from such camouflage. I absolutely love a good D4 "hidden in plain sight" cache. My record so far is 6 DNFS on such a cache before finally spotting it on the 7th visit. But I've also seen other (more fragile) locations receive a lot of abuse when geocachers search aggressively in the wrong locations for well-camouflaged caches.

 

Making a hide more obvious to geocachers (while leaving it more hidden to muggles) isn't necessarily a bad thing.

 

12 minutes ago, TeamRabbitRun said:

I've found a bunch of mag strip caches, and the only one that was obviously marked was the one that took me the longest. Was on a utility box, with the GC code displayed in mailbox stickers like it belonged there. More than ten minutes, including some time leaning right ON the letters. Only saw it as I was walking away and glanced back. But, that probably says more about me than it does about the cache.

FWIW, I've been known to trip over a regular size cache that was sitting out in the open. Everyone else in the group had already spotted it, and were giving me lots of warmer/colder hints.

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On 4/29/2022 at 12:44 PM, TeamRabbitRun said:

When you disguise a cache to look like something else, it kinda blows your purpose to put a "G+" symbol or GC number on it.

Why bother with elaborate camouflage when you're going to plainly mark it to make it obvious?

It would depend on whether you're camouflaging it to hide from muggles, or camouflaging it to hide it from geocachers. The latter is adding to difficulty of the hide, which some respond to by saying "Don't you want your geocache to be found?"  There's a time and place for both, but I'd say if you want it to be difficult for geocachers, be more conscientious about where/how it's being hidden (in context of example made earlier)

 

On 4/29/2022 at 6:51 PM, Goldenwattle said:

That's a problem; placing hard to find caches in places where there are possibilities (such as sprinklers) to destroy. I think that showed lack of foresight of the CO in not looking around and thinking like someone searching.

Agreed

 

20 hours ago, niraD said:

That depends on who you're trying to hide it from. When the typical magnetic strip cache is covered with adhesive labels that spell out the GC code, it works perfectly as camouflage from non-geocachers.

 

The goal of camouflage isn't always to make it hard for geocachers to find.

hah. I should have read and caught up on the thread first :)  Agreed!

 

5 hours ago, TeamRabbitRun said:

There's usually still an element of trying to make OUR hunt above a D-1.

Well not making it like those examples above doesn't mean it's a D1. It just means being more conscientious of where and how it's being hid, and what it might be "teaching" about how caches could be hidden, for people who may not (yet) know any better.

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1 hour ago, thebruce0 said:
6 hours ago, TeamRabbitRun said:

There's usually still an element of trying to make OUR hunt above a D-1.

Well not making it like those examples above doesn't mean it's a D1. It just means being more conscientious of where and how it's being hid, and what it might be "teaching" about how caches could be hidden, for people who may not (yet) know any better.

 

Yep, there's a few of my caches where I didn't want them to be difficult to find once at GZ, since the cache's challenge is getting yourself there, not searching once you've arrived, but some locations are just tricky for people to spot even though the cache isn't camoflaged at all. Sometimes there's an "obvious" hiding spot close by that draw's cachers' attention and they overlook the less obvious spot, particularly if it's below their line of sight. I got a message from someone once saying, "I'm at the big cave but can't find it, is it left or right?" to which the correct answer is "neither, look down". There's another one that ought to be obvious, and it is once you see it, but the thick undergrowth that's sprung up since a fire a few years back makes it hard to spot from more than a few metres away.

 

20200607_113001.jpg.a8457b29e20d27beaea787707bebbfd5.jpg

 

The hint for that one is "Prime real estate with water view suits small wombat" but people still struggle. Heck, I still stuggle finding it when doing routine checks.

 

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I used to work at a manufacturer that used magnetic material a lot.

 

One can get rolls of magnetic tape, of varying thickness. Some of it was no thicker than card stock, so it's quite easy to put something laminated / plastic upon one side of it (we usually used Lexan). It can be cut easily and accurately with a box-cutter knife and ruler.

 

The trick is finding the magnetic material; not like suppliers of it sell small amounts, and retail indivisual amounts can be pricey. Any craft or hardware store will have (rather expensive) rolls of the thicker stuff too. 

 

Maybe try this: If you know any retailer (like a pizza shop or something) that makes thin promotional fridge magnets (where the magnetic material is all across it), you can ask what printer made those magnets for them. It may be possible to contact that company and have them custom make something for you. 

 

We always worked in bulk, so I have no idea what kind of expense would be involved, but if they have sufficiently-sized off-cuts of material they otherwise discard, maybe that will do the trick much more cheaply.

 

 

 

 

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I've had good luck with manufacturers (such as a sign writer, when looking for magnetic material) and approaching them during the day and asking the staff if I can have a rummage in their bin. What they consider scraps or not worth working with is often the right size for small hobby things like making caches. I've had a few tell me to take a hike (no pun intended), but most of them have given me permission to dumpster dive. I'll let them know what I'm looking for up front, and if given permission I take the time to tidy the area up a bit as well if needed.

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