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Garmin GPSMAP 66 series announced on 2018-08-06


Mineral2

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It is more, though, than just the use of bad old data.  People chuck their cross county routes up there and nobody can tell that it is not a trail or that it may be in a managed area that does not allow that sort of travel.  Having maps with illegal trails really is not helpful in our desire to keep land open for use.

 

As VP knows, I have a Garmin trail mapping project.  I occasionally look at the OSM trail data to see if there is anything of use that could be added to my maps.  There is very little and what is there I would not trust.

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5 minutes ago, MaliBooBoo said:

The best Garmin maps for Canada are the Backroad Mapbooks GPS Maps imo. Pricey, but worth every penny.

 

That depends as well.  For driving they are usually okay, but in some areas are completely wrong.  They also include too many "routes" without clearly noting them as such, which can get people into trouble.

 

I have all the maps, so can compare everything easily.

Edited by Red90
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12 minutes ago, Red90 said:

People chuck their cross county routes up there and nobody can tell that it is not a trail

 

I tried convincing B714 to at least start using trail_visibility.  Twist his arm if you see him.

 

When trail_visibility is used properly, some maps will show those trail-less "routes" in a noticeably different way, typically a more spaced out dotted line.  For now around Alberta, detecting trail-less "routes" requires zooming in and looking for "Route" in the name.

 

I can't remember if BRMB (for Garmin, staying on-topic here) ever fixed the auto-routing on divided highways.  It used to expect you to veer left, up the on-ramp to leave the freeway.  My copy of BRMB now sits under dust in one of my parked old Garmins.

 

Edited by Viajero Perdido
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2 minutes ago, Viajero Perdido said:

I can't remember if BRMB (for Garmin, staying on-topic here) ever fixed the auto-routing on divided highways.  It used to expect you to veer left, up the on-ramp to leave the freeway.  My copy of BRMB now sits under dust in one of my parked old Garmins.

 

I'm not sure.  In the vehicle, I run City Navigator when on the highways as they are updated multiple times a year and they do really fancy, useful things on highways.  Then switch to MGCan or BRMB when on the dirt roads.  Mostly I use BRMB for dirt road travel in BC.  It is decent there are the developers are in BC and thus give a crap....

 

In town, I run Waze on the phone.  It is insanely up to date, including temporary construction detours all managed by very busy unpaid editors.

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7 minutes ago, Viajero Perdido said:

When trail_visibility is used properly, some maps will show those trail-less "routes" in a noticeably different way, typically a more spaced out dotted line.  For now around Alberta, detecting trail-less "routes" requires zooming in and looking for "Route" in the name.

 

For myself, when hiking in Alberta, I'm obviously using my own maps on the Garmin....  I've actually been contemplating trying a phone :O as I'm trialing a dog tracker that needs a mobile device.  So, If I go that way, perhaps I will show an interest in OSM....

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I've been using the GPSMAP 66ST for a while now. I too have occasional freezes that require battery removal to get past.

 

In addition to routine hiking use, I've been playing with the RINEX data available on the GPSMAP 66. I don't have an important application for it, but it is interesting in that if you make the effort, you can usually get the accuracy of a location's GPS position to within a meter or sometimes even less. This requires turning on RINEX logging, and letting the GPS stay for a while in position, preferably at least an hour but less can work too. You go back to your computer, download the RINEX data from the GPSr, and use an open source program called RTKPOST to process the raw data using similar data from a base station (hopefully nearby, less than 25 km is best) and accurate ephemeris data. This base station data and ephemeris data is available online. It is not an intuitive process, but it is very interesting.  As for its application to geocaching, if you can improve the accuracy of your geocache position to within a meter or two, you take a big chunk out of the position uncertainty when a geocacher is using his own gps trying to find it. There is no simple way to use RINEX or raw data in real time, unfortunately, so when mobile you are still at the mercy of the usual position uncertainty of a handheld GPS, but if the geocache's post-process position is more accurate it will be helpful to geocachers.

 

I've attached a screenshot from RTKPLOT, of the output from RTKPOST of a little more than 2 hours of data collection in one position (abt 6500 data points). In this example, there is a position jitter of about one meter from one end to the other. I would take the average to be the most likely, and you can position the mouse cursor where you want to read the lat/lon to 8 decimal places in degrees. The last decimal place is to about 1 mm, but you can't really use that with the GPSMAP 66, it only saves waypoints to a precision of about 1 meter.

RTKPLOTsampl.png

Edited by Thistler
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On ‎12‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 10:56 AM, Viajero Perdido said:

 

 My copy of BRMB now sits under dust in one of my parked old Garmins.

 

Judging the product by basing it on a version that existed many moons ago isn't likely fair. BRMB has updated their maps year after year since you likely tried it out and have made many improvements in the meantime. Saying it is worthy of sitting under dust likely isn't fair unless you have tried out Version 8, or at least a version that isn't several years old. It would surprise me if they haven't incorporated OSM, the Alberta maps, NW Trails etc. And the things are a work of art to top it off.

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Oh man.  If I try that phone, I'm going to need to help fix OSM....  West Bragg Creek Trails.

 

OSM, SATM and BRMB 8.0.  The OSM is a mess.  Dead end trails.  Trails on top of trails.  Ugg.

 

OSM

Capture.JPG

 

SATM (These are all correct..)

Capture2.JPG

 

BRMB 8.0  Really out of date.

Capture3.JPG

Edited by Red90
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OSM could use a bit of work at West Bragg, yeah.  It's a mix of good newer stuff, and crufty old CanVec data; streams in the wrong place and whatnot.  I've recorded some tracks, done some work there, but there's room to improve.

 

It's a good local project if you're looking for a place to start.  :)  OSM would certainly benefit from your help, should you choose.

 

PS, if you're not yet committed to a phone ecosystem, go Android.  Then you can run Locus, which is a cartophile's dream.  Also I think there's a bigger app choice overall, vs iOS.

 

Edited by Viajero Perdido
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On 12/13/2018 at 1:40 AM, Mineral2 said:

So it's settled, if you want the ST version, go to Canada and buy one. 

As far as shading and elevation - it's sometimes nice to have the elevation profile of your route ahead of you, but I don't know if it's worth the extra $50. And shading.... well, I've actually turned shading off because it was making the Northwest Topos map harder to read and slowing down map drawing.

Here's the thing, though. If you already own an older T model, the basemap can be transferred to your new unit. It's not locked. That's true, at least, if you have an Oregon 450t or a 62st. 

Hi,

How do you see the elevation profile of the route ahead of you? The 66 doesn’t have the 3D view that the Oregon has AFAIK.

Or are you talking about something else?

 

I don’t see basemap shading on anything because it’s turned off in night view, which I use for everything, otherwise the other menu screens are ghastly.

 

 

Edited by _Art_
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6 minutes ago, _Art_ said:

Hi,

How do you see the elevation profile of the route ahead of you? The 66 doesn’t have the 3D view that the Oregon has AFAIK.

Or are you talking about something else?

 

I don’t see basemap shading on anything because it’s turned off in night view, which I use for everything, otherwise the other menu screens are ghastly.

 

 

Disclaimer, I don't have a 66, but an Oregon 600. But, you should see the elevation profile on the elevation page. Mind you, this only works if your basemap has DEM data and you are actively routing, whether along a routable path, a series of waypoints, direct routing, or routing along a track, though if the track has elevation data, the elevation display might reference that as well. (that gives me something to test on one of my next hikes). 

The 3D view on previous models was a gimmick. It's been slow to draw and doesn't really show much more than looking up would get you. And it's a battery hog. I'm sure Garmin had their reasons for ditching it, but while I was excited by the feature when I got my first GPS, I've never found any practical use for it.

 

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That explains things. I can’t say I’ve ever set up a route ahead of time for any hike on foot, so wouldn’t know.

It was the Oregon 3D view I thought you were talking about, which was actually something I was hoping to see,

but I was unaware it had been removed, so I guess there’s no chance of that.

 

 

 

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So I now have a 66st.  In fact, I have already posted with a couple of geocaching specific questions in an new thread!  But if anyone has a specific question about the 66 that I might be able to answer by looking at mine, don't hesitate to ask or message me.  I'll do my best to help even though I am not that experienced yet with these new units.

 

I did do some track testing today in the field in back of the house.  So far it seems that the only recording settings that get me good results are these two:

1. Recording method set to time and the time interval set to 1 second. This does get you a lot of points in the track though. A 400' loop around part of the field produced 98 points.

2. Recording method set to "Auto and the interval set to "Most".  This appeared just as accurate a track as #1, but with only 15 points.

 

I'll soon try a longer trail with switchbacks and see how the two compare. 

 

FWIW, two other recording methods, as anticipated did not work well. 

One was method set to time and interval to 10 seconds. (Missed most short turns and some corners entirely, producing an odd, multi sided track where it should have been a 4 cornered path around the outside of the field.)

The other that did not work was method set to distance and distance set to .01 of a mile.  Too far between points on that one also for it to make an accurate track.

Edited by Cheminer Will
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Ok, well open one of your archived tracks from the saved tracks in the menu, go sideways to view the elevation profile for the track,

then exit back out with the quit button twice, and see if the unit turns off.

Apparently it doesn’t happen for everyone, and it won’t happen if you entered the menu from any screen other than the map screen.

 

I’m not so interested in geocaching, but wonder if the geocache database can simply be copied from a 64st or similar.

This will be old, I know, but I’m guessing the preloaded data wouldn’t be tied to a specific unit, and would work.

 

 

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10 hours ago, Cheminer Will said:

So I now have a 66st.  In fact, I have already posted with a couple of geocaching specific questions in an new thread!  But if anyone has a specific question about the 66 that I might be able to answer by looking at mine, don't hesitate to ask or message me.  I'll do my best to help even though I am not that experienced yet with these new units.

 

I did do some track testing today in the field in back of the house.  So far it seems that the only recording settings that get me good results are these two:

1. Recording method set to time and the time interval set to 1 second. This does get you a lot of points in the track though. A 400' loop around part of the field produced 98 points.

2. Recording method set to "Auto and the interval set to "Most".  This appeared just as accurate a track as #1, but with only 15 points.

 

I'll soon try a longer trail with switchbacks and see how the two compare. 

 

FWIW, two other recording methods, as anticipated did not work well. 

One was method set to time and interval to 10 seconds. (Missed most short turns and some corners entirely, producing an odd, multi sided track where it should have been a 4 cornered path around the outside of the field.)

The other that did not work was method set to distance and distance set to .01 of a mile.  Too far between points on that one also for it to make an accurate track.

 

I used to record track points once every second when mapping hiking trails etc., but I find that for most uses, the Automatic/Most Often works pretty well also. The automatic mode will reduce track point frequency while traveling in a straight line, and increase track points when turning. Works pretty well for detailed track log records..

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On 12/15/2018 at 10:09 PM, _Art_ said:

Ok, well open one of your archived tracks from the saved tracks in the menu, go sideways to view the elevation profile for the track,

then exit back out with the quit button twice, and see if the unit turns off.

Apparently it doesn’t happen for everyone, and it won’t happen if you entered the menu from any screen other than the map screen.

 

I’m not so interested in geocaching, but wonder if the geocache database can simply be copied from a 64st or similar.

This will be old, I know, but I’m guessing the preloaded data wouldn’t be tied to a specific unit, and would work.

 

 

 

Have not looked much at these types of shutdown bugs I have read about, but I have found one similar on my 66st.

 

Create a waypoint and then edit the symbol to be something other than the blue flag.  In my case I choose the yellow chest.

Quit back out of that screen without saving and my unit powers down.

If I remember to save, then it exits that screen gracefully.

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6 hours ago, Cheminer Will said:

 

Have not looked much at these types of shutdown bugs I have read about, but I have found one similar on my 66st.

 

Create a waypoint and then edit the symbol to be something other than the blue flag.  In my case I choose the yellow chest.

Quit back out of that screen without saving and my unit powers down.

If I remember to save, then it exits that screen gracefully.

 

Unable to duplicate.

 

What screen/page are you in when you MARK waypoint?

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What I did to cause it was the following although I just tried it again and it did not happen.  On the map screen choose the mark button.  Then on the screen that comes up scroll up to the icon field and enter button. Choose a different icon and then quit before saving.  My unit powered off when I did that earlier but just now it did not.

 

I have had the unit freeze with the usb symbol on the screen when removing it from the computer.  Taking out the batteries gets it back.  Also yesterday I ran the batteries low and the screen went to the word "Garmin" and faded out a bit.  Had to replace the batteries to get it to restart.  I have also had a message many times that the batteries are too low to run the backlight even though the screen show 2 or 3 bars.  I have the unit set to alkaline batteries which I am using.

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35 minutes ago, Cheminer Will said:

What I did to cause it was the following although I just tried it again and it did not happen.  On the map screen choose the mark button.  Then on the screen that comes up scroll up to the icon field and enter button. Choose a different icon and then quit before saving.  My unit powered off when I did that earlier but just now it did not.

 

I have had the unit freeze with the usb symbol on the screen when removing it from the computer.  Taking out the batteries gets it back.  Also yesterday I ran the batteries low and the screen went to the word "Garmin" and faded out a bit.  Had to replace the batteries to get it to restart.  I have also had a message many times that the batteries are too low to run the backlight even though the screen show 2 or 3 bars.  I have the unit set to alkaline batteries which I am using.

 

Yeah, thats how I did it, no duplication.

 

Alkaline batteries? Did you not get the Garmin rechargeable battery pack with your unit?

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Nah, get a 4 or 8 pack of Eneloop rechargeables. That's essentially what the Garmin battery pack is, and it's the most economical solution. Or hell, get 24 batteries and start using them in all of your electronic devices that take AA (and AAA) cells. I use them in my headlamps, flashlights, and mini lanterns, my tv remotes, camera flash, kid's toys. 

If you need a battery charger, this one is actually pretty decent without getting into the more expensive conditioner-chargers. 
https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-eneloop-Rechargeable/dp/B01G3SS04A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1545109761&sr=8-3&keywords=eneloop%2Bwith%2Bcharger&th=1

Edited by Mineral2
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8 hours ago, Cheminer Will said:

No I did not.  It never occured to me that I would really need it and I saw lots of bad reviews of it.  Alkaline batteries worked great with my 60CSx but as you pointed out, with the 66, I am not in Kansas anymore.  The price of 24 packs of Lithium batteries has come down a lot so maybe that is an option.

 

Do you believe everything you read on the internet?

 

With rechargeable batteries in your GPSMAP 66, you can charge them without removing them from the unit, just plug into USB from time to time. I keep my unit plugged in every night at my desk, and it is ready for a day full of whatever when I am.

 

If you prefer, you can use your favorite rechargeable battery by adding a small piece of thin, firm plastic (like the packaging uSD cards come in) below the batteries to keep the button pressed in so the GPSMAP 66 charges those as well. Just don't have it in there with non-rechargeable batteries!

 

That is, unless, of course, you enjoy removing the back cover regularly to swap out a fresh set of alkalines! (like with the GPSMAP 60)

 

8^)

 

 

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I have always used lithiums in my Oregon 450 and that was the plan for the GPSMap 66.  Sam's Club has great sales on the 18 packs, so I pick up a package whenever they are on sale.  I carry a little battery holder with extras in my pack in case they are needed.  Not sure how fast the 66 will go through lithiums compared to my Oregon 450.  For me personally, even if I had the rechargeable pack, I would still carry the case of lithiums to have all my bases covered.  There was one thing I did prefer about the 66 over my Oregon - removing the back cover was a heck of a lot less cumbersome.  With my Oregon, the carabiner clip had to be removed to access the battery cover, not so with the GPSMap 66.  

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27 minutes ago, Red90 said:

Personally I just use the rechargeable battery pack.  It charges when plugged in and is ready for use.  It lasts more than a day. If it is a multi day trip, carry NiMH AAs.  Lithiums and alkalines are just spending money that is not needed.

This.

A set of Eneloop 2000 mAh will last me 8-10 hours, depending on usage. I could extend that a few hours with the Eneloop Pros, but it's just so easy to carry a second pair of Eneloops with me and charge all four of them overnight. If I'm backpacking, I carry 1 par per day + 1, just in case. I'm typically not out for more than 3 or 4 days, so I'll come up with a different plan for longer treks when that time comes. Unlike Red, I don't have a problem opening up the back and swapping out batteries and throwing them in a wall charger. But I still use NiMH batteries because there's no use buying batteries just to throw them away after one use.

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1 hour ago, Red90 said:

Personally I just use the rechargeable battery pack.  It charges when plugged in and is ready for use.  It lasts more than a day. If it is a multi day trip, carry NiMH AAs.  Lithiums and alkalines are just spending money that is not needed.

I wonder if anyone has used a recharging brick to recharge the batteries in the Garmin. Should work, in theory. If you already carry one for your phone on longer outings anyway, all you'd need is the appropriate cable. 

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4 minutes ago, JohnCNA said:

I wonder if anyone has used a recharging brick to recharge the batteries in the Garmin.

 

No, they're different voltages.  You'd need more than a cable, but an actual converter gadget designed for the purpose.  Even so, it wouldn't be terribly efficient, using one battery to charge another; you lose some power in the process.

 

EDIT: uh...  unless the Garmin has a standard USB connector.  Then yes, it should work.

 

Edited by Viajero Perdido
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1 minute ago, JohnCNA said:

I wonder if anyone has used a recharging brick to recharge the batteries in the Garmin. Should work, in theory. If you already carry one for your phone on longer outings anyway, all you'd need is the appropriate cable. 

 

Sure, you can do that.  The only problem is that it does still draw power after the charging is complete, IIRC, so would drain the battery if you left it plugged in.

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1 minute ago, Viajero Perdido said:

 

No, they're different voltages.  You'd need more than a cable, but an actual converter gadget designed for the purpose.  Even so, it wouldn't be terribly efficient, using one battery to charge another; you lose some power in the process.

 

The GPS has a built in charger.

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19 minutes ago, Viajero Perdido said:

 

No, they're different voltages.  You'd need more than a cable, but an actual converter gadget designed for the purpose.  Even so, it wouldn't be terribly efficient, using one battery to charge another; you lose some power in the process.

 

EDIT: uh...  unless the Garmin has a standard USB connector.  Then yes, it should work.

 

All USB are 5 volts. Mini, Micro, C and even Lightning. 

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My biggest concern with rechargeables is using them and carrying them around in cold temperatures.  I am in northern Minnesota and it can get pretty cold (sub zeros at a constant).  I like lithiums because they handle the colder temperatures better than alkalines and the rechargeables that I am most familiar with.  I am not that familiar with the latest and greatest rechargeables out there, thus the reason I have always been so reluctant to go that route without lithium backups.  How has everyone else fared with temps and rechargeables?  Sorry to stray off course of the original topic.   

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21 minutes ago, Red90 said:

 

Sure, you can do that.  The only problem is that it does still draw power after the charging is complete, IIRC, so would drain the battery if you left it plugged in.

I would expect to use it the same way i use it with my phone. When i see the battery getting low, connect the brick. Check the charged status in 30-60 minutes. Disconnect and put the brick away when it shows it's charged. 

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1 hour ago, lucia152 said:

My biggest concern with rechargeables is using them and carrying them around in cold temperatures.  I am in northern Minnesota and it can get pretty cold (sub zeros at a constant).  I like lithiums because they handle the colder temperatures better than alkalines and the rechargeables that I am most familiar with.  I am not that familiar with the latest and greatest rechargeables out there, thus the reason I have always been so reluctant to go that route without lithium backups.  How has everyone else fared with temps and rechargeables?  Sorry to stray off course of the original topic.   

 

Lithium are certainly the best performers in those conditions!

 

I do carry a set of Energizer lithium AA in all my kits for 'just-in-case' scenarios.....

 

 

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2 hours ago, JohnCNA said:

I would expect to use it the same way i use it with my phone. When i see the battery getting low, connect the brick. Check the charged status in 30-60 minutes. Disconnect and put the brick away when it shows it's charged. 

 

FYI, It is a slow charge.  It takes something like 12 hours.   There is also no charge level indication. If you want a fast charge, you need a separate charger.  

 

edit:  I also think there is power wasted for the screen.  What I might do is a power usage test on a full charge.

Edited by Red90
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23 hours ago, Atlas Cached said:

 

Unable to duplicate.

 

What screen/page are you in when you MARK waypoint?

 

FWIW - I have had the unit shut down twice again today.  Both times it was after using the quit key to back out at least 3 menu levels.  Just now tried it by going into the screen for assigning symbols to waypoints.  Then used the quit button 3 times and it turned off.  Turned it back on and duplicated steps and it did not turn off so it seem intermittent. Batteries are good now so that is not related.

 

Edit:  I tried this many times this afternoon and it shut down on me probably 25% of the times. 

Went to map screen page>Find>Waypoint> then scrolled down to 2nd waypoint in list, "Test2". Then >Menu>Select Symbol. Goes to the screen with all available symbols.  Don't pick one, but just quit back 3 times to the map screen. 

 

What happens for me is that usually it just goes back to the map screen.  But about 1/4 of the time, after the first quit, the 2nd or 3rd quit does not do anything.  If I then try quit again, the unit powers off.  It can be started right back up with the power button like nothing happened.  But it would be annoying if I was out in the woods creating a track or whatever and this happened.  

Edited by Cheminer Will
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4 hours ago, Cheminer Will said:

 

FWIW - I have had the unit shut down twice again today.  Both times it was after using the quit key to back out at least 3 menu levels.  Just now tried it by going into the screen for assigning symbols to waypoints.  Then used the quit button 3 times and it turned off.  Turned it back on and duplicated steps and it did not turn off so it seem intermittent. Batteries are good now so that is not related.

 

Edit:  I tried this many times this afternoon and it shut down on me probably 25% of the times. 

Went to map screen page>Find>Waypoint> then scrolled down to 2nd waypoint in list, "Test2". Then >Menu>Select Symbol. Goes to the screen with all available symbols.  Don't pick one, but just quit back 3 times to the map screen. 

 

What happens for me is that usually it just goes back to the map screen.  But about 1/4 of the time, after the first quit, the 2nd or 3rd quit does not do anything.  If I then try quit again, the unit powers off.  It can be started right back up with the power button like nothing happened.  But it would be annoying if I was out in the woods creating a track or whatever and this happened.  

 

PLEASE, read Error Reporting on the Common Issues page here and send the requested files to Garmin as instructed so they can get to the bottom of what is happening and fix it in an upcoming firmware release!

 

Thank You!

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1 hour ago, _Art_ said:

Because the words Find and Mark mean Find and Mark respectively. They are dedicated buttons.

I just tested them both from the Compass page, and they both do the same as if they were pressed in the map screen.

 

What did you do to your Firmware? 8^)~

 

Reload v2.10 firmware or wait for the next release (hopefully any year now......)

 

I just tested my GPSMAP 66 v210 from more than a dozen different 'pages' (including Map, Compass, Home, Altimeter, Trip Computer, etc.), and in each page the Mark button properly invokes the Mark Waypoint function, and the Find button properly invokes the Find function.... They never do the what the other is supposed to do on my unit.

 

Anyone else having this same issue with their GPSMAP 66?

 

 

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1 hour ago, _Art_ said:

Because the words Find and Mark mean Find and Mark respectively. They are dedicated buttons.

I just tested them both from the Compass page, and they both do the same as if they were pressed in the map screen.

 

BTW, when you say they do the 'same thing', what exactly is that 'same thing'?

 

What page is opened when you press each button?

 

 

Edited by Atlas Cached
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13 hours ago, _Art_ said:

For now, I suspect those won’t be an issue if you start from a screen other than the map display,

in which case, the find and mark buttons should have the same function.

 

 

Thanks.

 

I read this as meaning the find button functions the same if used from the Map page as it would from the Compass page for example.  And that the Mark button functions the same if used from the Map page as it would from the Compass page or any other page.

 

I will try to reproduce the shut down from the Compass page and see if the shut down is specific to starting from the Map page.

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That’s basically what I mean, yes.

I’d expect FIND and MARK buttons to do the same thing no matter where you are in the GUI,

and for every GPSMAP model as far back as those buttons exist,

but I only tested from the Compass screen, and they do as they are supposed to on the 66 from there.

 

Not sure that it will solve the problem you have with it, but it does for another issue I already talked about earlier in the thread.

 

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Never as far as I know. I was only suggesting a possible way you could bypass the shutdown or freeze you have by not making the quit button return to the map screen.

ie. begin making or finding waypoints, etc. from some screen other than the map screen, and then when you exit the menu, it won’t try to exit to map screen.

 

EDIT,, Actually it’s Cheminer Will I’m talking about here... I think it could prevent his unit turning off in the situation he’s describing.

 

Edited by _Art_
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I had a play with the Weather app thingy over wifi that I was rather impressed with.

Though I’m not fussed about connected features, it is very tidy... or at least until I tried to make these screenshots to show others:

 

https://imgur.com/a/IaX0vQF

 

https://imgur.com/a/378ylw6

 

To capture these, of course I don’t want to show the world my location, so I turned GPS off, and set an arbitrary position for simulation from the Satellite screen.

Then capturing the screens in a fake location was fine, but then when setting a different position on a map again from the Satellite screen,

the entire weather app context is displayed again! From there,  you can’t browse the map again for at least the entire power cycle.

 

Not a big deal for this scenario, but I’ll bet there’s other areas a map view will be needed when the Weather app will essentially be displayed instead.

 


 

 

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