Noob's First Cache Creation

[+P50P]

I discovered Geocaching on 3/8, went Premium on 3/10, have been loading my GPS with cache information ...

 

I have yet to look for a cache, but I fly a mean desk!

 

I've ordered one Official Ammo Can Kit with Logbook & Pencil, and since it's been an expensive month, I'm thinking of setting up a cache with no swag, but including a request to deposit trackables and log them.

 

Good idea? Stupid? Other?

 

Thanks!

[+TriciaG]

A fine idea, but be sure to scout out a good spot, where the can will be safe. There's nothing worse than a nice cache container in a spot where muggles will steal the coins and TB's!

 

I HIGHLY recommend finding some caches before putting one out, though! You need to see how to place it well. (You already have a good cache container in the ammo can.)

 

Keep in mind that cache ownership is a long term commitment. If you do burn out and move on to something else, you can have someone adopt your cache; but other than that, you're responsible for the maintenance runs.

Edited March 14, 2014 by TriciaG

[+P50P]

A fine idea, but be sure to scout out a good spot, where the can will be safe. There's nothing worse than a nice cache container in a spot where muggles will steal the coins and TB's!

 

I HIGHLY recommend finding some caches before putting one out, though! You need to see how to place it well. (You already have a good cache container in the ammo can.)

 

Keep in mind that cache ownership is a long term commitment. If you do burn out and move on to something else, you can have someone adopt your cache; but other than that, you're responsible for the maintenance runs.

 

Thanks!

 

I'm thinking, as long as I get permission from property management, of placing my first cache so close to home you'd almost (but not quite) have to knock on my door to discover it!

[+captnemo]

A fine idea, but be sure to scout out a good spot, where the can will be safe. There's nothing worse than a nice cache container in a spot where muggles will steal the coins and TB's!

 

I HIGHLY recommend finding some caches before putting one out, though! You need to see how to place it well. (You already have a good cache container in the ammo can.)

 

Keep in mind that cache ownership is a long term commitment. If you do burn out and move on to something else, you can have someone adopt your cache; but other than that, you're responsible for the maintenance runs.

 

Thanks!

 

I'm thinking, as long as I get permission from property management, of placing my first cache so close to home you'd almost (but not quite) have to knock on my door to discover it!

Plus 1 on TriciaG's remarks. Please go and find a few caches first. That way you can discover what type of hides you like and what type you don't and hide one you would like to find.

[+NeverSummer]

A fine idea, but be sure to scout out a good spot, where the can will be safe. There's nothing worse than a nice cache container in a spot where muggles will steal the coins and TB's!

 

I HIGHLY recommend finding some caches before putting one out, though! You need to see how to place it well. (You already have a good cache container in the ammo can.)

 

Keep in mind that cache ownership is a long term commitment. If you do burn out and move on to something else, you can have someone adopt your cache; but other than that, you're responsible for the maintenance runs.

 

Thanks!

 

I'm thinking, as long as I get permission from property management, of placing my first cache so close to home you'd almost (but not quite) have to knock on my door to discover it!

Plus 1 on TriciaG's remarks. Please go and find a few caches first. That way you can discover what type of hides you like and what type you don't and hide one you would like to find.

The excitement of the game comes in many forms. There's the find, the hide, the hunt, the meeting of other cachers...plenty of fun on the horizon for you.

 

But, as the others have said, it is best if you find some caches first. It provides important context about how caches are hidden, how to maintain them, and what works to keep them from "walking off" with a non-geocacher.

 

So long as you're flying that desk, take a look at the Geocaching.com youtube videos to learn some more, and take a read through the guidelines and "Knowledge Books". I know, you're likely groaning like I've asked you to build me an ikea florgenflave desk, but it is actually good reading, and very helpful in the journey to more enjoyment of this game.

 

Additionally, you may want to read the Help Center article called "Geocache Ownership: A Long-Term Relationship"; it's full of useful tips for geocache owners. The Help Center article called "Review Process: Hiding a Geocache" provides a technical explanation of what to expect during geocache submission.

 

Enjoy the game!

[+Chief301]

I'm thinking, as long as I get permission from property management, of placing my first cache so close to home you'd almost (but not quite) have to knock on my door to discover it!

 

I applaud your enthusiasm, but really, please go out and find some caches first. Make sure you're really going to enjoy this game before you make the commitment of owning a cache. Once you have done a little caching, you may think twice about placing that cache "so close to home you'd almost have to knock on my door".

 

If you live in a very busy caching community, are you prepared for several visitors a week on your doorstep? Or probably a whole bunch on the first day? How are your neighbors going to feel about a bunch of total strangers poking around the neighborhood at all hours of the day or night?

 

Again, you might think it would be neat to have folks turning up at your door every day, but once you start seeking caches yourself you'll realize how uncomfortable it can be to have to search on private property right outside someone's door, worrying about the neighbors calling the cops on you, etc.

 

Plus, you really need to understand that all of us here offering our advice have seen WAY too many brand new players start out with tons of enthusiasm, thinking this is the coolest thing they've ever heard of....they go out and find three caches, excitedly hide a couple, then next weekend they're off to a new hobby and forget all about the caches they left out in the world. I know, right now you're thinking, nah, not me, I'm in this game for the long haul....those one-hit wonders were probably thinking the same thing.

 

Just sayin', have a little patience, enjoy and learn the finding aspect of the game for awhile.

 

Oh, and by the way I think that a lot of cachers would consider placing an ammo can and starting it out with absolutely ZERO swag to be bad form. Most cachers aren't in it for the trinkets but families with kids will specifically seek out Small and Regular sized caches because they are assumed to have at least a few trade items inside. Finding a nice, shiny new ammo can and realizing there's nothing in it but a log can be a little bit of a letdown for the kiddies. If you're not going to stock it with some decent swag you might as well just place a Micro, they're easier to hide.

 

The swag doesn't have to be expensive....$10 worth of dollar store trinkets and toys would be fine. Or just go through your own junk drawers at home and recycle some decent items that you don't need anymore. Anything is better than nothing.

Edited March 14, 2014 by Chief301

[+K13]

<snip>

 

I'm thinking, as long as I get permission from property management, of placing my first cache so close to home you'd almost (but not quite) have to knock on my door to discover it!

 

Welcome to the game. Like others have suggested, find some caches prior to placing your own. You will have a better appreciation of what you are getting yourself into.

 

There are many like me who will not even attempt a cache like you describe. Just one example from a recent thread.

 

I'm not a fan of front yard caches, even WITH the property owners knowledge and permission. All it takes is one alert neighbor to call 911 and bring the police in force. It may all be legal and above board, but why should I have to deal with that just to sign my name on a slip of paper? Too many folks thinks it's all well and good just because the property owner gives permission, but I think it's rare that neighbors are informed...you know, the folks who live/work nearby and actually take an interest in public safety and have your back if anything suspicious happens on your property.

 

After you have gone out and found some caches and attended some local events, you may feel differently about bringing strangers (and there are some really strange geocachers ) to your front door.

[+P50P]

A fine idea, but be sure to scout out a good spot, where the can will be safe. There's nothing worse than a nice cache container in a spot where muggles will steal the coins and TB's!

 

I HIGHLY recommend finding some caches before putting one out, though! You need to see how to place it well. (You already have a good cache container in the ammo can.)

 

Keep in mind that cache ownership is a long term commitment. If you do burn out and move on to something else, you can have someone adopt your cache; but other than that, you're responsible for the maintenance runs.

 

Ha! Can't scare me with IKEA - "some assembly required" are my three favorite words.

 

Thanks for the links!

Thanks!

 

I'm thinking, as long as I get permission from property management, of placing my first cache so close to home you'd almost (but not quite) have to knock on my door to discover it!

Plus 1 on TriciaG's remarks. Please go and find a few caches first. That way you can discover what type of hides you like and what type you don't and hide one you would like to find.

The excitement of the game comes in many forms. There's the find, the hide, the hunt, the meeting of other cachers...plenty of fun on the horizon for you.

 

But, as the others have said, it is best if you find some caches first. It provides important context about how caches are hidden, how to maintain them, and what works to keep them from "walking off" with a non-geocacher.

 

So long as you're flying that desk, take a look at the Geocaching.com youtube videos to learn some more, and take a read through the guidelines and "Knowledge Books". I know, you're likely groaning like I've asked you to build me an ikea florgenflave desk, but it is actually good reading, and very helpful in the journey to more enjoyment of this game.

 

Additionally, you may want to read the Help Center article called "Geocache Ownership: A Long-Term Relationship"; it's full of useful tips for geocache owners. The Help Center article called "Review Process: Hiding a Geocache" provides a technical explanation of what to expect during geocache submission.

 

Enjoy the game!

[+niraD]

I have a friend who owns a cache that is an ammo can chained to his back stoop. It has a few trade items, but mostly it serves as a place for others to drop and retrieve Travel Bugs and geocoins. And it has a lot of Favorite points. So the basic idea of the cache you've described is fine.

 

But is that really the kind of cache you want to own and maintain for the long term?

 

Before new geocachers hide their first cache, I recommend that they find enough caches to know what kinds of containers work well, what kinds of containers work poorly, what kinds of caches they enjoy, and what kinds of caches they want to own and maintain for the long term. The Geocache Listing Requirements / Guidelines recommend that new cache owners find at least 20 geocaches before hiding one, but that's just an arbitrary number. For this purpose, I think the variety of geocaches found is more important than the absolute number of geocaches found.

 

Speaking of the guidelines, be sure to read them first. And you won't understand everything the first time through, so it's a good idea to read them a second time. Some have even recommended a third reading to really understand them.

[+The_Incredibles_]

Swag does not have to be expensive and it means alot to people caching with kids. Just go through your home. I'm sure you'll find something. Shiny rocks, stickers, buttons etc. If you really don't have anything, you can go to the local thrift store and a pick up a bag of little toy cars or plastic animals.

[+The_Incredibles_]

Property management? Does this mean you live in an apartment/condo? If so, I wouldn't do it. Someone's bound to call the police. Either that or it's going to missing shortly after placing.

 

Best to hide a cache in a nice place, like a park, where people would enjoy visiting. Most people feel uncomfortable looking for caches in people's yards or near businesses.

[+Jayman11]

Plenty of good answers so I will just say...Welcome to the community and happy caching!

[Clan Riffster]

Hi P50P, welcome to the addiction!

I copy/pasted this from the Florida Geocaching Association.

Hope it helps!

 

Creating an awesome cache!

 

One thing to keep in mind is that this a globally diverse game, played by all manner of enthusiastic folks, for a variety of reasons. Each of us has their own ideas regarding what makes for an awesome cache, and each of these opinions is perfectly valid. There is no "wrong" way to play this game, so long as you stay within the guidelines. We don't want you reading this thinking there is only one "right" way to hide a cache. Rather, we'd like to offer our collective experience, on issues that can transform a cache from okay to fabulous.

 

There are several factors which directly contribute to how great an experience seekers have when hunting for your cache, to include location, coordinate accuracy, container selection, hide style and cache page write up. Let's take a gander at each of these, and see if there is any room for improvement.

 

Location:

The motto of Groundspeak is "The Language Of Location". Because of this motto, we feel that location selection is the most critical stage in creating a memorable cache. Because tastes vary, there really is no formula for finding a great spot. Some folks like small parks, some like waterfalls at the end of long hikes, some like historic urban locations. Heck, some folks even like gator infested swamps! It really doesn't matter what your preferences are. The first step to creating a great cache is to find a location that speaks to you. A spot that just screams, "Put a cache here!". Your enthusiasm for your chosen spot will express itself in other aspects of your hide. One of our favorite quotes is from geocacher, Reviewer and forum Moderator Briansnat, "When you go to hide a geocache, think of the reason you are bringing people to that spot. If the only reason is for the geocache, then find a better spot". Groundspeak places so much importance on location selection that this quote is found at the very beginning of their guidelines. Let's not turn this hobby into a celebration of mundania. We really don't need to be brought to another guardrail along a boring stretch of roadway.

 

Coordinate accuracy:

This hobby, at its most basic, is going to a set of GPS coordinates and locating a container. If your coordinates are not as accurate as possible, those seeking your cache might face frustration rather than fun. This is why Groundspeak specifically requires the use of a GPS device when obtaining coordinates. Having found many caches where the coordinates are 50+ feet off, it's apparent that getting accurate coordinates is not as simple as it seems. We'll touch on a few tips which you might find helpful. To start with, not all GPS units are created equal. Who remembers the original bright yellow eTrex? It had a patch antenna which was less than stellar. The problem with any poor antenna is that it directly affects reception. Since reception is critical in determining your precise location, having a poor antenna can dramatically impact the accuracy of your device. These patch antennas are reasonably effective in perfect conditions, with clear skies. But once you add in other elements which can impact the accuracy of even the best GPS, such as dense tree cover, the inaccuracies increase geometrically. With the advent of cell phones being used in this hobby, it is important to note that they use the very same patch antennas as were found in the original eTrex.

 

Now, we're not suggesting you need a $15,000 Trimble to hide a geocache. That would be silly. So long as you understand how your GPS works, you can get pretty accurate coordinates, with these tips, using just about any GPS.

 

Before you mash the button to mark your coordinates, take a look at the satellite screen and see what's going on. An ideal arrangement is to have at least six satellites giving a strong signal. These satellites should have a fairly decent spread across the sky. Once you have a good signal, let your device settle for a minute, then hit the "Mark" button. Now, walk off at least 100' in four different directions, and return to the cache site, seeing how close you are when your GPS says you are at ground zero. If each return trip puts you within 10' of the cache site, your job is done. If not, you might need to do some averaging. While this might sound a bit intimidating, it's really pretty simple.

 

When you return from your 100' walk away from, and back to your cache site, if you see your coordinates are more than 10' off, mark another set of coords. Then repeat in the three other cardinal points. If three trips out and back put you really close, and one trip puts you pretty far off, your original coordinates are probably fine. At most, you might want to return another day, with the satellites in a different constellation, and see how your coords look. If each trip out and back puts you pretty far away, say 15' or more, you could zoom way in on your GPS screen and create a waypoint in the middle of all those other points. Then try that one for accuracy.

 

If you are hiding a cache and you just can't get consistent coordinates, reach out to your caching community. This is a highly social hobby, and just about anyone who plays will be more than willing to help out. If you can't find out who is local to you, you might try contacting the FGA representative for your region. We'll be happy to help!

 

Container selection:

Your choice at this stage of the process can be the difference between "Wow!" and "Ick!". Before picking your container, it's important to remember what the job of that container is; protecting the contents from the elements. It really doesn't matter if the contents are just a slip of paper, or 80 bajillion dollars worth of high end booty. If your container won't protect the contents, it should not be used as a geocache.

 

While it's true that everybody loves the venerable ammo can, these are not necessarily appropriate for every hide. Some times you'll find the perfect spot, but because of the location, an ammo can would stick out like a sore thumb. Another very real consideration is cost. Ammo cans are getting to be expensive, and buying the can, as well as buying swag to fill it might be too much for budget conscious cachers.

 

Worry not! There are several cost effective alternatives out there, which most anybody can afford. For micros, there are soda bottle preforms, which cost about $0.60 each, match safes, which cost about $0.90 each, and true Bison Design tubes, which cost a few bucks each after shipping. For smalls and regulars, you can get real Lock & Lock containers in all sorts of sizes, for just a few bucks. Other cost effective, quality containers are Nalgene jars and medium Therapak canisters.

 

We list these containers specifically because, from our experience, they have stood the test of time in many different habitats. For comparison's sake, we'll include a list of containers which have failed the test of time in many different environments. This list includes the black & gray film can, Altoids tins, dollar store knock off Lock & Locks, hide-a-keys, fake bison tubes, Gladware, cookie tins, duct tape covered ziplock baggies, and prescription medicine bottles. If your cache is to be located outside, and your annual average humidity exceeds 1%, these should probably be avoided. Science tells us that humidity does not fall straight down. Neither does ground vapors. So putting an inferior container in a place where rain can't fall on it won't keep the log from becoming a spit wad.

 

One thing we'd like to address whilst we're on the topic is including a baggie in your cache. A baggie makes a good secondary level of protection for your log. But keep in mind that baggies are pretty delicate. The process of repeatedly removing the baggie from the cache, opening the bag, extracting the log, replacing the log and closing the baggie takes its toll, as does pokey things like pens and swag bouncing around your container. If you choose to use a known inferior container, and you think it'll be fine because you included a baggie, you might be up for disappointment. More importantly, those who seek out your cache might experience the ickiness of dealing with a damp, moldy log.

 

But what about all the containers not on the list? Our advice is to test them. To be a viable test, you should employ some method which simulates rough handling in moist conditions. One of our FGA reps uses his washing machine for this, tossing in a few containers and running them through a few cycles of laundry. Then he tosses them in the shrubbery in his front yard for a few months, opening them up every so often. If a container passes this test, it should survive anything Momma Nature can throw at it.

 

Hide style:

If you are hiding an ammo can many miles deep in the woods, you can get away with simply covering it with a pile of sticks. Those who favor these types of hides oft get their pleasure from the trip to the cache, and care not how the final is hidden. But for those caches a bit closer to parking, hide style is a great opportunity to wow those who hunt it. Sure, you could just drop a Lock & Lock in a hedge. No one will fault you for it. But you could do so much more! Your only limit is your imagination! Over the years we've seen everything from fake switch plate covers, hollowed out logs, ammo cans suspended by ropes with pulleys leading you well away from the final, bird houses, fake pine cones, microwave oven deep in the woods with an ammo can inside, (micro in the woods, get it?), hollow book caches in libraries, and many, many more. We've loved them all! As a hider you can join in on the fun by coming up with something beyond the ordinary. Your future seekers will thank you for it.

 

Write up:

Whilst listed last, your cache page write up is hardly least. Your cache page is your chance to present your cache to the community. Imagine your teen age daughter is having a coming of age party. Would you have her descend the stairs wearing bib overalls, or a classy gown? We know that not everybody can type 5000 words of prose. Nor should those who are not interested in lengthy write ups try. That's not what we are suggesting. But the opposite end of that spectrum is a cache page with fewer words than are found tattooed on Rosie O'Donnell's backside, or, even worse, a cache page that has been copy/pasted in a tribute to tedium.

 

If nothing else, tell us what caused your spot to speak to you. Why did you pick that particular locale? Surely, this is a tale worth telling. Or, tell us a bit about yourself. Tell a funny story. Something other than, "This is a cache". You could also liven things up with pictures added to the cache page. Everyone loves pictures. Even if you are not a computer person, adding pictures, changing fonts, playing with text color and size are all super easy. Google something to the effect of, "HTML for cache pages" to learn how. One of our reps is dumber than a bag of hammers, and he figured it out in about 5 minutes. Give it a shot!

 

Thanx for taking the time to read all this.

 

See you on the caching trail!

 

Your friends at the Florida Geocaching Association.

[+Don_J]

Please, please, please go out and find some caches. Remember that TBs are other people's property. Your idea is to create a cache specifically for them, yet you have never even seen an actual cache, how they are hidden and how they shouldn't be hidden. I would really hate to see something go wrong with your first cache and see it and other people's property go missing.

[+Manville Possum]

I have no worries about a noob placing an ammo can for TB's. Just don't be upset if it goes missing or no one places a TB in it. I have had bad luck with both. After losing over a dozen trackables I only buy them for my collection now, and seldom ever move another person's TB's. I use the discovered option and leave them for the next finder.