Holiday Gifts 2013

[+Team Hugs]

Friends and relations are giving me money to spend on myself for the holidays this year. Help me spend it!

 

I have a Garmin Dakota 20 with which I'm quite happy, a good hiking pole, more empty containers (of various sizes) than I have ideas on where to put them, and plenty of unused Travel Bugs. So ... I'm kinda into that "next tier" of caching gear.

 

The one thing I'm thinking about is a set of waders ... there are a few water caches around here of the T4.5/T5 variety that could be found in good weather if I was willing to wade across a stream or two. But I'll have money left after that.

 

So ... what other gear should I be thinking about next?

[+Viajero Perdido]

Airline tickets or gas money for a caching trip?

[+Mudfrog]

You mentioned waders which could come in handy. But, i think stepping it up so that you can traverse water of all depths might be something to consider. Just got my first kayak about a year ago and i've used it to place and find quite a few caches around the area in that time. Because it's light and easy to handle, the smaller 10 footer that i bought has been perfect for my excursions.

 

And on that note, we have a night time paddling geocaching event coming up on Dec 14 which adds immensely to the fun of having it.

Edited December 2, 2013 by Mudfrog

[+Team Hugs]

You mentioned waders which could come in handy. But, i think stepping it up so that you can traverse water of all depths might be something to consider. Just got my first kayak about a year ago and i've used it to place and find quite a few caches around the area in that time. Because it's light and easy to handle, the smaller 10 footer that i bought has been perfect for my excursions.

 

And on that note, we have a night time paddling geocaching event coming up on Dec 14 which adds immensely to the fun of having it.

 

How hard are they to transport? I don't have a truck ...

[+Mudfrog]

You mentioned waders which could come in handy. But, i think stepping it up so that you can traverse water of all depths might be something to consider. Just got my first kayak about a year ago and i've used it to place and find quite a few caches around the area in that time. Because it's light and easy to handle, the smaller 10 footer that i bought has been perfect for my excursions.

 

And on that note, we have a night time paddling geocaching event coming up on Dec 14 which adds immensely to the fun of having it.

 

How hard are they to transport? I don't have a truck ...

 

For most vehicles, they are easy. I've transported mine on homemade racks on both my Jeep Cherokee and my Hyundai Elantra Touring. Luckily, both of these vehicles have factory installed luggage racks which made it easy to fabricate cross members to place the kayak on.

 

Many people use foam rubber blocks that are placed on the roof of a standard automobile without luggage racks. There are many foam canoe/yak kits out there that cost around $30. Of course some people get more into kayaking and spend more money on fancier racks as well.

 

The getting the yak on top of the vehicle is the easy part. The important thing is to make sure you have a way to tie it down once it's up there. I've seen people run the tie down straps through their windows if they didn't have factory luggage racks. I like to also have a strap/tiedown going fron the front of the yak down to the front of the vehicle. The Hyundai just happens to have a toe hook under the front center which is ideal for tieing it to. This gives me peace of mind since i can see the strap and tell if it ever started loosening, going sideways, etc. I figure if it's staying taut and in the same place, that the yak is not trying to go anywhere.

 

And on that note, i've carried it on several outings and have never had it slip in any way.

[+BBWolf+3Pigs]

A kayak is loads of fun! We are working towards finding caches or hosting paddle events through all 12 months of the year (we are in New England!).

 

What kind of car/van do you have? Does it have installed side rails?

 

The blocks MudFrog mentions work for light use, but a rack is definitely better. You can search Craig's list for Thule or Yakima racks. The hard part to match to your vehicle are the "feet" - the cross bars are universal (by manufacturer) so you can definitely save money with Craigslist.

 

Be sure you go to a reputable dealer (that sells a variety of makes and models) and look at different boats. Some dealers will let you try them out as well. Dealers will have end of season sales, as well as sell off this year's rental boats at a savings. SAide from a few scratches (which you willadd youselve the first time out) you can get a great deal sometimes.

 

A shot of the start of our Black Friday Paddle event, with just abit of ice on the pond:

 

[+Fugads]

OK, so in your neck of the woods this might not be as useful as a paddle-craft, but this is much more essential gear where I like to cache.

Cliffs, rocky mountains, serious tree-climbing... This is the stuff you want! Consider treating yourself to some good gear! Sorry, couldn't resist providing a counter-point to all those yakers.

[+macatac1961]

43 north, how about a pair of show shoes or microspikes?

[+Team Hugs]

What kind of car/van do you have? Does it have installed side rails?

 

My main caching vehicle is a two-door coupe (Chevy Cobalt, if it makes a difference). No built-in racks, so that'd be something to consider as part of the total price.

 

Cliffs, rocky mountains, serious tree-climbing... This is the stuff you want! Consider treating yourself to some good gear! Sorry, couldn't resist providing a counter-point to all those yakers.

 

Perhaps. Though I'd have to think carefully about some of this gear. I'm a bit "gravitationally challenged". I had hoped that getting into caching might help solve that problem, but it really hasn't. (Of course, thinking about this right after Turkey Day here in the states is terribly depressing ...).

 

43 north, how about a pair of show shoes or microspikes?

 

Not a bad thought ... certainly worth thinking about.

 

Keep the ideas coming ... and thanks to all who've already contributed. Certainly has me thinking ....

[+6NoisyHikers]

I agree with Viajero - use the money for a trip to go caching in a place you've never been before. At this time of year, Hawaii might not be a bad idea

[+WarNinjas]

Many in my area have gotten inflatable kayaks. There are actually some good ones out there. For my fishing activities I do need waders but for what you are talking about and having some extra money for it I think a nice inflatable kayak is in order for sure. About $200 would get you an OK one for this. The one I like is about $2000 but that is just for me with my fishing stuff and mine is a fiberglass one with pedals.

[+popokiiti]

If you are kayaking alone, please consider a waterproof cell phone on a float strap or attached to you. Add flares too. A friend of ours went on a kayak trip, was tipped into the water and could not make it back on. He was in the sea for three hours before search and rescue found him. It was dark then. And cold. Luckily, he had left a "float plan" with his wife and the place where he rented the kayak - they found his car, searched the shore and then called SAR. He was admitted to the hospital with a temperature of 32F....and his cardiac enzymes went a bit crazy. Thankfully all is well now, but it was a harrowing time for him and for his wife.

[+NYPaddleCacher]

You mentioned waders which could come in handy. But, i think stepping it up so that you can traverse water of all depths might be something to consider. Just got my first kayak about a year ago and i've used it to place and find quite a few caches around the area in that time. Because it's light and easy to handle, the smaller 10 footer that i bought has been perfect for my excursions.

 

And on that note, we have a night time paddling geocaching event coming up on Dec 14 which adds immensely to the fun of having it.

 

How hard are they to transport? I don't have a truck ...

 

For most vehicles, they are easy. I've transported mine on homemade racks on both my Jeep Cherokee and my Hyundai Elantra Touring. Luckily, both of these vehicles have factory installed luggage racks which made it easy to fabricate cross members to place the kayak on.

 

Many people use foam rubber blocks that are placed on the roof of a standard automobile without luggage racks. There are many foam canoe/yak kits out there that cost around $30. Of course some people get more into kayaking and spend more money on fancier racks as well.

 

The getting the yak on top of the vehicle is the easy part. The important thing is to make sure you have a way to tie it down once it's up there. I've seen people run the tie down straps through their windows if they didn't have factory luggage racks. I like to also have a strap/tiedown going fron the front of the yak down to the front of the vehicle. The Hyundai just happens to have a toe hook under the front center which is ideal for tieing it to. This gives me peace of mind since i can see the strap and tell if it ever started loosening, going sideways, etc. I figure if it's staying taut and in the same place, that the yak is not trying to go anywhere.

 

And on that note, i've carried it on several outings and have never had it slip in any way.

 

Foam rubber blocks (they have shallow "V" cut into the top for the keel) work fine for short trips. Get nylon cam straps (NRS is a good source) to tie down the kayak on top of the vehicle. Use one on each side of the cockpit. If you don't have a rack you can run the straps through the doors (make sure to open the doors first...not through the windows). Be aware that when transporting the kayak when it's raining that water will seep down the straps and drip on your shoulder. I know this first hand from transporting my 17' fiberglass kayak from NY to NC and back. For the strap/tie-down in front (a bow line), use rope. Don't tighten it down real tight or it can bend the hull. The purpose of the bow line isn't so much for keeping the kayak attached to the top of the vehicle as much as it is to keep it from flying off into a vehicle behind you if the other straps fail.

 

You can use pool noodles in lieu of foam blocks in a pinch for a short trip. If you use the kayak a lot, consider getting a rack (Yakima or Thule are pretty much that standards). They're expensive but much more secure and convenient, even if you just put foam blocks on the rails of the rack. You can go further and get attachments for the rack (i.e. J bars) specifically designed for carrying a kayak but even though I consider myself an avid kayaker I've never bothered with the extra attachments. In addition to the 3 kayaks I own, I also own a canoe and would have to remove the kayak attachment to carry the canoe. I've also used the racks on my vehicle a lot for carrying lumber and a variety of other things.

 

 

[+NYPaddleCacher]

If you are kayaking alone, please consider a waterproof cell phone on a float strap or attached to you. Add flares too. A friend of ours went on a kayak trip, was tipped into the water and could not make it back on. He was in the sea for three hours before search and rescue found him. It was dark then. And cold. Luckily, he had left a "float plan" with his wife and the place where he rented the kayak - they found his car, searched the shore and then called SAR. He was admitted to the hospital with a temperature of 32F....and his cardiac enzymes went a bit crazy. Thankfully all is well now, but it was a harrowing time for him and for his wife.

 

There is a variety of safety equipment one can purchase. Your friend could have used a paddle float that can help get back into the boat (and a pump to pump the water out of the cockpit). I've taught beginning kayaking lessons dozens of times with my friend that owns the local kayak shop. One of the first things we teach is how to exit the kayak after a capsize and how to get back in (with help from another kayaker, and with a paddle float). Of course, a good comfortable PFD is essential (if it's not comfortable you're not going to want to wear it). I wear mine every time I get into my kayak, even when doing rolling practice in a pool. Although flares are often suggested as a signaling device they're probably not necessary for the kind of kayaking required to find most boat required caches (most could probably done with an inflatable pool toy). Get a good *loud* whistle. I was out on a full moon paddle with a group of friends (all wearing head lamps) when a pontoon boat headed straight for us and got within 200' before I blew my whistle (which is loud enough to make your ears ring) and they changed their course.

 

The most important aspect with safety equipment is knowing how everything works, and practicing using it. You don't want to find out that you have no idea how to use a paddle float when you actually need it. Several years ago I was at my friends shop when they guy had brought some friends down to rent some kayaks and go out onto our local lake (a 40 mile long, 1 mile wide lake). He had all the equipment. He strapped his paddle float behind the seat. He put in a dry bag with flares, andd a VHF radio and strapped a GPS under the deck bungies. He put on his new PFD (with the signalling light attached) and attached a paddle leash from the paddle to the deck lines then got into his shiny new kayak and paddle away from the dock holding his paddle upside down.

 

BTW, re-entering a kayak in rough water without the help of another kayaker or a paddle float is not easy. I once went out with a couple of friends when the wind had picked up and there were white caps all over the lake to practice some rolling and assisted/self rescues. At one point I capsized (intentionally) and attempted a "cowboy re-entry" (climbing onto the kayak from the stern and shimmying forward until you're sitting in the boat). I failed on four attempts before I grabbed my paddlefloat, then was back in my kayak with 45 seconds.

 

Those 10' recreational kayaks are inexpensive and easy to use but, because they're short, most don't come equipped with floatation bags in the bow and stern. Because these kayaks don't have bulkheads, if you capsize the entire inside of the boat will fill up with water. The float bags will displace enough water that you can tip the boat over and drain most of the water. On a trip to Florida I was out with a bunch of kayakers and one of them had a 10-12 recreational kayak and I asked her why she didn't have float bags. She said that the sales person told her that the boat was constructed of material that floats so they weren't needed. While we were having lunch on a small island I convinced her to try capsizing are kayak to see what happens. We were in about 6' of water when the boat filled up. It took three strong people to pull it up near shore and drain enough water out it so that she could paddle it without capsizing again.

 

I know that this is all a bit off topic, but if you're going to use a kayak go after boat only caches, it should be done safely. If you're planning on doing any sort of open water kayaking like

popokiiti's friend I would recommend getting a copy of a book called "Deep Trouble" by Matt Broze (a kayak designer that lives in the PNW). It describes a couple of dozen incidents that occurred, what went wrong, and how it could have been prevented.

 

[+Mudfrog]

Those 10' recreational kayaks are inexpensive and easy to use but, because they're short, most don't come equipped with floatation bags in the bow and stern. Because these kayaks don't have bulkheads, if you capsize the entire inside of the boat will fill up with water. The float bags will displace enough water that you can tip the boat over and drain most of the water. On a trip to Florida I was out with a bunch of kayakers and one of them had a 10-12 recreational kayak and I asked her why she didn't have float bags. She said that the sales person told her that the boat was constructed of material that floats so they weren't needed. While we were having lunch on a small island I convinced her to try capsizing are kayak to see what happens. We were in about 6' of water when the boat filled up. It took three strong people to pull it up near shore and drain enough water out it so that she could paddle it without capsizing again.

 

I know NYPaddleCacher has much more experience than me but i will add that you don't have the issue of filling up with water if the kayak is a sit on top. This is what i have and i can say that it has worked great on the lakes and bayous around our area. I too was concerned about whether i could get back onto it after a roll over so i purposely jumped off it one day in about 40 feet of water. It turned out that it is very easy to get back onto it.

 

The point is, there are a variety of different types, lengths, and brands of kayaks out there to choose from. For casual use such as paddling a short distance to get a cache every once in a while, a shorter, lighter, cheaper model may be perfect. As has been brought up, there are other items that you will need to think about as well. A lifejacket and paddle are the two main things. In your case, some kind of rooftop carrier for your vehicle will also need to be considered.

[+ipodguy]

I'd say climbing gear or a kayak. That's my favorite gear for caching.

 

Also, a great investment I made was buying a good backpack with lots of pockets and room for stuff.

 

Rubber crampons to slip on your shoes might be a good one too.

 

I got waders from walmart.com for $40 and they can definitely take some abuse. Very well worth it.

 

In NJ, we have park passes where you buy the pass and get access to parks without having to pay at the entrance. That's a good thing to have.

 

You could lift your cache mobile for off roading.

 

Buy stock in Energizer and Duracell.

 

Pallet of ammo cans that you can sell to local cachers.

 

Anything blaze orange.

 

Or, you could go on a trip somewhere. I flew to Seattle recently and with the flight, car and hotel it was $370 on orbitz.

[+Team Hugs]

Thanks to all ... keep the ideas coming.

 

The notion of a good inflatable kayak is appealing. The water areas I have in mind aren't particularly fast-moving, so having an Olympic-class kayak isn't absolutely necessary, and transport would be considerably simpler. That might be in the right price-point.

 

And all the advisories about safety equipment are certainly well-taken (even if sobering). Certainly I would get (and use!) a PFD; I've had experience falling out of a canoe before and know how important safety equipment can be. How much other gear I'd get ... we'll have to see. Hopefully I'll find a good sales clerk who can give some practical advice.

[+The Rat]

There's now a brick and mortar geocaching store in Florida. It has some good ideas:

 

Space Coast Geocaching Store facebook page.

 

Website