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Oregon is not precise in distance to


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I had a dakota 20 first and I kept having the same problem: I could not get the compass to be precise enough to direct me in the proximity of the stash. Never to point zero. Luckily I had my old faithfull Etrex Vista H still on hand to help me. That device is very very precise! I thought it was the dakota playing tricks on me, but now that I am the proud owner of an Oregon 450, I keep having the same problem.

So it is me and not the device.

 

Can someone help to get the compass to give precise directions to the geocache I chose?

 

Thank you so much! greetings Corry from Jerenemas team

Edited by Jerenemas
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Unlike the old Etrex, your Oregon has an electronic 3-axis compass. It must be calibrated periodically for best accuracy. Compass calibration only takes a few seconds and should be done whenever you change the batteries (I'm not sure it has to be done EVERY time but different battery types, brands etc. can affect the compass' calibration. I make it a habit to do it every battery swap)

 

I don't have my Oregon in front of me right now so I don't recall the exact steps to calibrate. I think it's under the "Heading" icon.

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I had a dakota 20 first and I kept having the same problem: I could not get the compass to be precise enough to direct me in the proximity of the stash. Never to point zero. Luckily I had my old faithfull Etrex Vista H still on hand to help me. That device is very very precise! I thought it was the dakota playing tricks on me, but now that I am the proud owner of an Oregon 450, I keep having the same problem.

So it is me and not the device.

 

Can someone help to get the compass to give precise directions to the geocache I chose?

 

Thank you so much! greetings Corry from Jerenemas team

 

Newbies often make the mistake of thinking a consumer grade GPS will always put you right on top of GZ. With more than 500 finds logged, I am surprised to read that you sill expect "the compass to give precise directions". Seriously? What is your definition of precise directions? You want the unit to lock on the precise spot on the first approach and then never budge? If you have one that can actually do that, insure it for a million dollars.

 

Some locations have bad reception. Some hiders are less accomplished at marking good coordinates. I calibrate my Oregon 450t compass less than once a month. Seems to be way more than sufficient. It won't hurt anything though, so give it a shot.

Edited by Cardinal Red
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Calibration of the compass is pretty easy. I would tell you how, but I don't use a Garmin.

 

Basically they require three movements for calibration -- wrist twisting (rotating it) 180°; swinging it side-to side 180°; raising and lowering it 180°.

 

Garmin may want you to do it in a specific order. Find it in your on-board main menu, it should tell you exactly what to do.

 

I agree with Chief301 -- you are used to using a compass (pointer) that reads the satellites, not an electronic compass which does need calibration occasionally. The other one never needed calibration, but in order for it to function, you need to be moving.

 

An electronic compass actually reads the earth's magnetic field for a reading. Reading such a weak(?) signal requires an instrument that must be calibrated upon occasion. Those motions, when properly sequenced, do just that.

Do note that different manufacturer's may use different sequencing, so check before trying it.

Edited by Gitchee-Gummee
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The Oregon 450 compass calibration isn't rocket science. You don't even have to read the manual. Once you figure out the path to initiate the calibration: SETUP/HEADING/COMPASS CALIBRATION/START all 3 rotational axis lines are communicated visually (on screen)in the required order. 1. ROTATE 2. ROLL 3. FLIP

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The Oregon 450 compass calibration isn't rocket science. You don't even have to read the manual. Once you figure out the path to initiate the calibration: SETUP/HEADING/COMPASS CALIBRATION/START all 3 rotational axis lines are communicated visually (on screen)in the required order. 1. ROTATE 2. ROLL 3. FLIP

I use an oregon 450 and press + hold on the compass until the calibration screen pops up.

 

 

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The Oregon 450 compass calibration isn't rocket science. You don't even have to read the manual. Once you figure out the path to initiate the calibration: SETUP/HEADING/COMPASS CALIBRATION/START all 3 rotational axis lines are communicated visually (on screen)in the required order. 1. ROTATE 2. ROLL 3. FLIP

I use an oregon 450 and press + hold on the compass until the calibration screen pops up.

 

Just like this and follow instructions.

Early versions of firmware also were a problem as well as some later. I've found on the 450 that Software Ver. 5.50 and GPS Software Ver.5.00 are the way to go......earlier versions had the " sticky" problem and later versions had other issues.

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Calibration of the compass is pretty easy. I would tell you how, but I don't use a Garmin.

 

Basically they require three movements for calibration -- wrist twisting (rotating it) 180°; swinging it side-to side 180°; raising and lowering it 180°.

 

Garmin may want you to do it in a specific order. Find it in your on-board main menu, it should tell you exactly what to do.

 

I agree with Chief301 -- you are used to using a compass (pointer) that reads the satellites, not an electronic compass which does need calibration occasionally. The other one never needed calibration, but in order for it to function, you need to be moving.

 

An electronic compass actually reads the earth's magnetic field for a reading. Reading such a weak(?) signal requires an instrument that must be calibrated upon occasion. Those motions, when properly sequenced, do just that.

Do note that different manufacturer's may use different sequencing, so check before trying it.

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Thank you for your considerate anwers, however calibrating is not the problem. And Cardinal Red, I do not expect to be a top geocacher whatsoever. It s only a hobby not a job. But my problem is that our Etrex Vista H, puts us normally right down on point zero, where first the Dakota 20 and now the Oregon 450 has a problem even coming close. I probably dont have the right settings.

 

I would like to show on the map or the compass an indication how far it is to the geocache I chose. Distance to destination I tried that, but this is very imprecise. What happens is that the distance in metres stays on for example 30 metres and even if I follow the arrow of the compass, the distance stays the same. (Where the Etrex Vista H, which we follow simultaniously, gives us the correct information). I think I dont have the right settings. But what ARE the right setting?

 

Maybe I expect too much of this device, but shouldnt it perform better?

 

Greetings Corry from team Jerenemas

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...stays on for example 30 metres and even if I follow the arrow of the compass, the distance stays the same. (Where the Etrex Vista H, which we follow simultaniously, gives us the correct information). I think I dont have the right settings. But what ARE the right setting?

Those units should track at least as well as the older Vista.

 

Have you checked the Garmin website for firmware update downloads? Sometimes, even a newly purchased unit when it gets to the hands of a consumer has a firmware update already available.

 

Just had another thought: Make sure the unit is set on "hiking" mode, and not routing (highway).

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...stays on for example 30 metres and even if I follow the arrow of the compass, the distance stays the same. (Where the Etrex Vista H, which we follow simultaniously, gives us the correct information). I think I dont have the right settings. But what ARE the right setting?

Those units should track at least as well as the older Vista.

 

Have you checked the Garmin website for firmware update downloads? Sometimes, even a newly purchased unit when it gets to the hands of a consumer has a firmware update already available.

 

Just had another thought: Make sure the unit is set on "hiking" mode, and not routing (highway).

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If you have routable maps on it, go to setup -> routing and change from direct to automobile. Then set the avoidances up so it will avoid unpaved roads. Now it won't route you down any roads that the map says are unpaved. You'll want to switch it back to direct routing after arriving at the parking spot. This is an ideal use for profiles. Set up one profile for driving and one profile for walking with the appropriate settings.

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Every once in a while, my Oregon 550t mysteriously goes into "Lock on Road" mode, even when the unit is set to Direct Routing and I'm hiking to a cache. When that happens, the compass arrow will tend to jerk in all sorts of wrong directions and make it difficult to navigate. The distance reading will also tend to be really erratic when this happens.

 

The next time you have the problem with your Oregon 450, try this: Go to Setup/Routing and check whether Lock On Road is on. If it is, that's the problem. Turn Lock On Road off, and hopefully the unit will behave better.

 

--Larry

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Thank you Larry,yes the routing was set on "lock on road". All your answers so far I have printed, to take along on my holidays. I really hope that with all your advices, the problem will be solved. If anyone has more ideas, please let us know. We are very gratefull!

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Unfortunately I have to call in your help again. I have calibrated the compass today, put routing on hiking, direct routing and not lock on road. We have a geocache about 40 metres away from our home, so I decided to give it a go. The Etrex Vista H pointed me straight to zero, whereas the Oregon had other things on it s mind: first it swiffled round and gave point zero about 20 meters from the geocache.

 

I think there are still settings I might not have tackled yet. I hope you can help me (again)?

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Try this, in "Setup" go to "Heading", and under "Compass" turn it Off.

 

Now your Dakota should work exactly like your Etrex.

 

As long as you are moving, (just like your Etrex) it should point to your destination.

 

Getting the magnetic compass "out of the picture" should make it easier to understand.

 

Later you can turn it back on and calibrate it and see how you unit works differently. Really, about the only difference is that it should still point toward the destination even while standing still. (but standing still you'll never get there anyway)

 

Problem is probably due to where and/or how you are holding it and possibly some magnetic interference.

Just turn the compass off and see if the pointer doesn't lead you right to the destination just like your old one.

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I use my Oregon 450t set to receive WAAS/EGNOS Differential correction. Of course in North America I have WAAS ground stations, but are you receiving EGNOS Differential correction on the Oregon? I don't have an Etrex Vista H. What Differential correction settings are available on it, and do you have it turned on? I don't think different Differential correction settings would account for a 20 meter difference, but could it possibly be a factor?

 

Do both units have a good solid fix? Go back to this nearby cache again. Hold one unit in each hand (two to three feet apart). If both units report (by coordinate) that they are pretty much in the same place, but think GZ is two different distances AWAY, they are not looking for the same Waypoint. Where does the one that seems to be wrong want you to go? What is at that spot?

 

edited: 'apart' to 'AWAY'

Edited by Cardinal Red
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You won't find many geocaches if you stay off unpaved roads where I live. 99% of ours here are on "unpaved" roads, unless you go downtown San Antonio which I certainly shall NOT do. I would rather cache on unpaved roads than a busy Hiway or subdivision anytime, anywhere. Just my humble opinion of course. Some people don't have much choice.

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