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Friday 13th

Fake Leaf + Container

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I've been working on placing some caches with interesting camo. Right now, I'm trying to figure out how to attach a small plastic tube to a fake leaf. I've tried several types of adhesive and nothing has worked. Is there a special type of adhesive that would work for this of is there another way to attach it?

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I would try using a hot glue. Not sure how long it will last out in the elements but when you see people making wreaths and things like that, they generally use hot glue to attach leaves and berries.

 

Jayman11

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One other thought....try using an epoxy possibly. That stuff is very strong and should adhere no problem depending on the container that you use. I would recommend scuffing up the area on the container where the leaf is going to be attached. That way the epoxy has something to bite into.

 

Jayman11

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cyanoacrylate glue-high quality glue also called superglue/Krazy glue whatever.

 

rough up the container and the underside of the leaf and one dab of glue. Let it dry 24 hours before you place the cache. Again only ONE small dab of glue-just enough to notice it.

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I've been working on placing some caches with interesting camo. Right now, I'm trying to figure out how to attach a small plastic tube to a fake leaf. I've tried several types of adhesive and nothing has worked. Is there a special type of adhesive that would work for this of is there another way to attach it?

Is it a slippery Polypropylene tube? No glue sticks to that. Can you bolt your leaf on?

 

One thing I've tried that works OK is wrapping the plastic vial with Velcro hook strip. That strip can be glued in place pretty well (use most any adhesive suitable outdoors), and now you have a great material to glue objects to. Velcro also opens up possibilities for attaching the tube to trees, benches, etc.

 

Is it a plastic leaf? Polypropylene melts easily. Heat both with fire, plastic weld them together. Outdoors in lots of fresh air.

Edited by kunarion

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It's a fake ivy leaf bought from my local crafting store. It's made of fabric. The container is a small test tube thingy that you can buy in bulk on eBay. I'm not sure how else to describe it. I've tried to use super glue. It doesn't work on the fabric. I will try Velcro. I'm also going to try epoxy. I will wait on this to see if the Velcro works of if anyone else has a better suggestion.

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The container is a small test tube thingy that you can buy in bulk on eBay.

Maybe it's a soda bottle preform. Those are polyethylene terephthalate.

 

I've glued things to polypropylene vials, and even the most expensive stuff I can find pops right off. It actually would be fine "if cachers don't put too much force right here". Well, they do. :anicute:

 

One other thing I've found is, fake leaves turn unnatural colors in sunlight. I've had to paint my cloth leaf camo, so it retains its color. You just have to place it and see if it needs a touch-up later. But I found a really tricky ivy hide by waiting til it turned pink. :laughing:

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I believe that the container is what is referred to as a "Snap Cap Micro". I had another container that used the same fake Ivy and it was not discolored.

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I believe that the container is what is referred to as a "Snap Cap Micro". I had another container that used the same fake Ivy and it was not discolored.

So it's like the picture below?

 

I glued some plastic items to the cap (roughed up as T.D.M.22 mentioned) using Gorilla Glue, and I think that will hold up. Gorilla Glue requires water to set, but for the cap, I used hardly any water at all, and clamped it in place. If the glue foamed up, it separated from the cap easily (being only foam).

 

I'm thinking the main reason this works is that the force required to open the vial is less than the force required to pop the glue off the polypropylene.

 

Reaction_vials_1_5ml.jpeg

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I think you are going to have the best luck using a bit of color matched duct tape.

 

I recently found a cache, which was made entirely out of duct tape, shaped into a maple leaf with the tube stuck to the side. It quite effectively blended into the real leaves.

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Something that sticks to almost anything, even wet -- clear silicone sealer.

Small squeeze-tubes from any hardware store or discount stores with a hardware aisle.

 

Cure time is quite long, but it will not release once set.

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Something that sticks to almost anything, even wet -- clear silicone sealer.

Small squeeze-tubes from any hardware store or discount stores with a hardware aisle.

 

Cure time is quite long, but it will not release once set.

 

How do you define "quite long?" Are you talking hours or days?

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Something that sticks to almost anything, even wet -- clear silicone sealer.

Small squeeze-tubes from any hardware store or discount stores with a hardware aisle.

 

Cure time is quite long, but it will not release once set.

 

How do you define "quite long?" Are you talking hours or days?

Days. There's a cure accelerator for some.

 

I recently used an industrial two-part silicone sealant. Cure time was about 12 hours, and it completely sealed the molds I was using -- it was supposed to make a few fake bolts, but permanently sealed instead :anicute:. Anyway, some kinds of silicone sealer might work great. I'll test some more (less expensive ones). This might require making all the containers at once, so it doesn't cure inside the tube by the time you need it again.

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Something that sticks to almost anything, even wet -- clear silicone sealer.

Small squeeze-tubes from any hardware store or discount stores with a hardware aisle.

 

Cure time is quite long, but it will not release once set.

 

How do you define "quite long?" Are you talking hours or days?

Days. There's a cure accelerator for some.

 

I recently used an industrial two-part silicone sealant. Cure time was about 12 hours, and it completely sealed the molds I was using -- it was supposed to make a few fake bolts, but permanently sealed instead :anicute:. Anyway, some kinds of silicone sealer might work great. I'll test some more (less expensive ones). This might require making all the containers at once, so it doesn't cure inside the tube by the time you need it again.

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I'm going to try to use gorilla glue, but I can't find it in any stores near me. All there is is PVC gorilla glue. Is this the same or should I be looking for something different?

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Something that sticks to almost anything, even wet -- clear silicone sealer.

Small squeeze-tubes from any hardware store or discount stores with a hardware aisle.

 

Cure time is quite long, but it will not release once set.

 

How do you define "quite long?" Are you talking hours or days?

Days. There's a cure accelerator for some.

 

I recently used an industrial two-part silicone sealant. Cure time was about 12 hours, and it completely sealed the molds I was using -- it was supposed to make a few fake bolts, but permanently sealed instead :anicute:. Anyway, some kinds of silicone sealer might work great. I'll test some more (less expensive ones). This might require making all the containers at once, so it doesn't cure inside the tube by the time you need it again.

Sorry, didn't think to check back regarding the cure time. Days is correct. It will be tacky to the touch in a day, but a true cure is at least 3 - 4 days, possibly even longer. There is no dissolving agent once it is cured.

 

@kunarion: There is probably "release agents" that could be applied to the mold. Things like talcum power also come to mind, but that would then become an integral part of your fake bolt then. Might be OK if painted over.

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@kunarion: There is probably "release agents" that could be applied to the mold. Things like talcum power also come to mind, but that would then become an integral part of your fake bolt then. Might be OK if painted over.

I used a "mold release" fluid, just as I had with other kinds of sealants and epoxies. This stuff was a whole new level of adhesive. No "silicone sealant" odor either. And, it's gray. I'll post what it is, so people can look it up. I was impressed. Too bad the fake "nuts & bolts" are fused into the mold material :anicute:.

 

As for silicone sealant, there's primer for that. Paint a little onto both attachment points. I'll test that, too.

 

There are various brands of mold putty, and I'm using Alley Goop. You need mold putty to make fake bold heads, or copy moldings or other structures for real sneaky hides.

Edited by kunarion

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I have made this type of container. I use a two- part clear epoxy that automatically mixes in the tube as it comes out. It is very tough, you can use it on many different surfaces, and it dries in minutes. You can get it at Wally Mart, Home Depot, or Lowe's. Hope thais helps!

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I'm going to try to use gorilla glue, but I can't find it in any stores near me. All there is is PVC gorilla glue. Is this the same or should I be looking for something different?

I thinks it's different. Look for cyanoacrylate glue. Also called CA glue, Super glue, Crazy glue, gorilla glue-it's all the same basic stuff. You should be able to find in Walmart, Home Depot, any hardware store, or if you have a store that sells hobby grade RC cars(nitro/gas powered cars) go to that store. You can find it in your city guaranteed. If there are different kinds you should get the fastes setting time.

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I have just found out that Home Depot has a Gorilla Glue Epoxy and it has a short curing time! Gorilla Glue AND Epoxy... and a short cure time! It's the best of both worlds! I'm going to try to get there ASAP to get some. I'll make sure to post how the container turns out.

Edited by Friday 13th

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My favorite adhesive. Used with a caulking tube. Be sure to scratch up the plastic before you apply the glue.

 

8540708494_552f0766d4_z.jpg

Edited by The_Incredibles_

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Have you thought about using a mechanical attachment instead of adhesive? Wire (metal or plastic fishing wire) might last longer than adhesive if you have good attachment points on the container.

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Have you thought about using a mechanical attachment instead of adhesive? Wire (metal or plastic fishing wire) might last longer than adhesive if you have good attachment points on the container.

I would try this, but I want to try using an adhesive first. If epoxy works, why put wire through the leaf possibly giving away the cache? :lol:

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My favorite adhesive. Used with a caulking tube. Be sure to scratch up the plastic before you apply the glue.

 

8540708494_552f0766d4_z.jpg

The OP only requires a half a drop of any waterproof glue to stick a leaf onto a vial cap. :anicute:

 

But that is a great adhesive.

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Have you thought about using a mechanical attachment instead of adhesive? Wire (metal or plastic fishing wire) might last longer than adhesive if you have good attachment points on the container.

I would try this, but I want to try using an adhesive first. If epoxy works, why put wire through the leaf possibly giving away the cache? :lol:

 

Well, I'm not sure what sort of leaf or what sort of container, but it seems like you could thread it through or around the primary 'spine' of the leaf so that it would only be seen if looking closely.

Sometimes it's surprising how effective some minimal amount of camouflage can be when put into context. One cache near me was a simple lock & lock container with camo tape all over it...and not even all that good a match to the surroundings. It was hidden in a bush and I swear I must have searched a five foot radius for ten minutes before my eyes finally hit it just right...I couldn't believe I actually missed it.

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The OP only requires a half a drop of any waterproof glue to stick a leaf onto a vial cap. :anicute:

 

But that is a great adhesive.

 

Yeah, I know, but I've tried other adhesives and this is the only one I can recommend.

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Have you thought about using a mechanical attachment instead of adhesive? Wire (metal or plastic fishing wire) might last longer than adhesive if you have good attachment points on the container.

I would try this, but I want to try using an adhesive first. If epoxy works, why put wire through the leaf possibly giving away the cache? :lol:

 

Well, I'm not sure what sort of leaf or what sort of container, but it seems like you could thread it through or around the primary 'spine' of the leaf so that it would only be seen if looking closely.

Sometimes it's surprising how effective some minimal amount of camouflage can be when put into context. One cache near me was a simple lock & lock container with camo tape all over it...and not even all that good a match to the surroundings. It was hidden in a bush and I swear I must have searched a five foot radius for ten minutes before my eyes finally hit it just right...I couldn't believe I actually missed it.

 

Okay, that makes more sense. I don't know why I didn't comprehend that before. I thought that you meant that I should poke holes in the leaf and thread the wire through that. I still want to try the adhesive first because I know that I will use it again. If that doesn't work, I'll try fishing line.

Edited by Friday 13th

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The OP only requires a half a drop of any waterproof glue to stick a leaf onto a vial cap. :anicute:

 

But that is a great adhesive.

 

Yeah, I know, but I've tried other adhesives and this is the only one I can recommend.

 

I haven't used it for geocaching but 3M 5200 adhesive is frequently used in marine environments for bonding plastic materials. A lot of commercial polyethelene kayak companies use it to bond and seal bulkheads in their sea kayaks so you know it would withstand a wet environment.

 

BTW, what's that green ivy leaf going to look like in the fall when all the natural leaves turn red?

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The OP only requires a half a drop of any waterproof glue to stick a leaf onto a vial cap. :anicute:

 

But that is a great adhesive.

 

Yeah, I know, but I've tried other adhesives and this is the only one I can recommend.

 

I haven't used it for geocaching but 3M 5200 adhesive is frequently used in marine environments for bonding plastic materials. A lot of commercial polyethelene kayak companies use it to bond and seal bulkheads in their sea kayaks so you know it would withstand a wet environment.

 

BTW, what's that green ivy leaf going to look like in the fall when all the natural leaves turn red?

Ummm...ivy leaves don't change color where I live. They stay green all year.

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Have you thought about using a mechanical attachment instead of adhesive? Wire (metal or plastic fishing wire) might last longer than adhesive if you have good attachment points on the container.

I would try this, but I want to try using an adhesive first. If epoxy works, why put wire through the leaf possibly giving away the cache? :lol:

 

Well, I'm not sure what sort of leaf or what sort of container, but it seems like you could thread it through or around the primary 'spine' of the leaf so that it would only be seen if looking closely.

Sometimes it's surprising how effective some minimal amount of camouflage can be when put into context. One cache near me was a simple lock & lock container with camo tape all over it...and not even all that good a match to the surroundings. It was hidden in a bush and I swear I must have searched a five foot radius for ten minutes before my eyes finally hit it just right...I couldn't believe I actually missed it.

 

Okay, that makes more sense. I don't know why I didn't comprehend that before. I thought that you meant that I should poke holes in the leaf and thread the wire through that. I still want to try the adhesive first because I know that I will use it again. If that doesn't work, I'll try fishing line.

 

One possibility is to thread wire or a line through holes in the cap (if it's something like the vial below. Other types of caps work too). Then fill the inside of the cap, covering the holes, so the cap has its watertight seal. It's not prefect for every cache, just one idea that provides many attachment options.

 

Reaction_vials_1_5ml.jpeg

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The OP only requires a half a drop of any waterproof glue to stick a leaf onto a vial cap. :anicute:

 

But that is a great adhesive.

 

Yeah, I know, but I've tried other adhesives and this is the only one I can recommend.

 

I haven't used it for geocaching but 3M 5200 adhesive is frequently used in marine environments for bonding plastic materials. A lot of commercial polyethelene kayak companies use it to bond and seal bulkheads in their sea kayaks so you know it would withstand a wet environment.

 

BTW, what's that green ivy leaf going to look like in the fall when all the natural leaves turn red?

 

Does ivy turn red in your area? Here it's green all year round. Of course, so is the grass. :P

Edited by The_Incredibles_

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The OP only requires a half a drop of any waterproof glue to stick a leaf onto a vial cap. :anicute:

 

But that is a great adhesive.

 

Yeah, I know, but I've tried other adhesives and this is the only one I can recommend.

 

I haven't used it for geocaching but 3M 5200 adhesive is frequently used in marine environments for bonding plastic materials. A lot of commercial polyethelene kayak companies use it to bond and seal bulkheads in their sea kayaks so you know it would withstand a wet environment.

 

BTW, what's that green ivy leaf going to look like in the fall when all the natural leaves turn red?

Does ivy turn red in your area? Here it's green all year round. Of course, so is the grass. :P

Ivy generally stays green, but poison ivy turns red in the fall.

 

As for the glues, crazy glue & related types work great for some situations but not this one. The bond is very strong, but it's brittle. The best choices include gorilla glue (regular, not for pvc), the marine glue, & the construction glue shown above.

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I recommend Permatex 5 minute, 2-part epoxy. Really, any 2-part clear or translucent white epoxy in the double syringe. Not brittle. Super strong.

 

Super glue is intended only to cure in very small gaps. It has high shear and tensile strength in that application, but if it's applied to thick, it is really very weak. Gorilla glue makes up for this somewhat by being foamy and filling gaps, but it's still fairly brittle.

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As for the glues, crazy glue & related types work great for some situations but not this one. The bond is very strong, but it's brittle. The best choices include gorilla glue (regular, not for pvc), the marine glue, & the construction glue shown above.

 

I have used Gorilla glue and I hate it. I can't stand how it expands and bubbles and makes a big sticky mess. I've also tried Marine Amazing Goop and had a camo job self-destruct in short order.

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As for the glues, crazy glue & related types work great for some situations but not this one. The bond is very strong, but it's brittle. The best choices include gorilla glue (regular, not for pvc), the marine glue, & the construction glue shown above.

 

I have used Gorilla glue and I hate it. I can't stand how it expands and bubbles and makes a big sticky mess. I've also tried Marine Amazing Goop and had a camo job self-destruct in short order.

I applied the gorilla glue last night. I used epoxy, not the regular glue. It seems to be working great. It will be completely cured tonight. It doesn't foam so there's no sticky mess.

Edited by Friday 13th

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